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THE COMPLETE HUNTERS'.TRAPPERS 
AND CAMPERS' LIBRARY OF 
VALUABLE INFORMATION 



BY BUZZACOTT" 



^y'^^'-CtJ "H^t<A^ I CitW^^V*.'<-^1 



COPYRIGHT. 1913. BY 

McMAINS a MEYER 

PUBLISHERS 
MILWAUKEE. WIS. 






'^ 



r 



CONTENTS. 






Heading Page 

Authors Introduction 15-16 

Alarm or Danger Signals, 

Signs, Etc 125-127 

Alligator Game Trap. .. 313-315 
Animals Gesture Language . 

255-256 

Advertisement, Price of this 

Book 544 

Boil Water or Cook in Blan- 
ket, To 137 

Blue Color of the Sky, The. 127 

Blind, Building a 294-295 

Bait the Fox Previous to Set- 
ting the Trap, How to. 381-382 

Beaver Skins 335 

Beaver, The, 435-447 

Beaver, Trapping the. .. 444-449 
Bears, Habits and Peculi- 
arities of 228-233 

Bear, Hunting- and Trapping 

the 235 

Bear Skins 338 

"Carpenter of the Woods" 

The 493 

Catch the Fisher, How to. . . 

395-407 

Catch the Mink, How "to. 469-470 
Catching Fish, Scent Bait for 

498 

Camp Hygiene — Medicine, 

Surgery 182-185 

Cold Room, Sleeping- in a... 185 

Coyotes, Trapping 350 

Coyotes, Poisoning 350 

Coyotes Dens, Locating 350 

Correct Loads to Use, The. . 

298-299 

Deer Hunting 278-280 

Direction, How to Find.... 130 
Deductive Power of Odors . . . 

261-263 

Dressing and Tanning Skins 

and Furs 328-333 

Ducks Fast Flyers 293-294 

Explorers, Hunters and Trap- 

ers, To the 9 

Elk, Normal Habits of 283 

Ferret, The 460-463 

First Lessons, The 25-36 

Fish, To Catch 498 

Fish, Chinese Art of Catch- 
ing 498 

Fi'ost Bite Remedy 200 

Foxes. To Catch 497 

Fox Skins, To Dress 335 



Page. 

Fox, Hunting and Trapping 
The , 351-370 

Farmer's Trap for Mink, 
Weasel, Skunk, Etc 311 

Fur, Hints in Trapping and 
Selling 484-485 

General Flies Good at any 
Time 163-165 

Good Animals and Bad Ones 
225-227 

Gun Barrels, Browning and 
Bronzing Liquid for 499 

Gun Barrels, Stain for Twist- 
ed 499 

The Best Ail-Around Gun. . . 
138-139 

Grader, The Work of the. . . . 
485-487 

Guides, Duties of 283-289 

Good Bedding 71 

Good Booklets for Sportsmen, 
Campers, Shooters, Trap- 
pers, Guides, Etc 303-305 

Handle the Pelts, How to. . . 

481-482 

Hides, Coloring 333-335 

Hints and Pointers to the 

Trapper 327-328 

How to Judge Why Prices 

Fluctuate 482-484 

Hints, Pointers, Kinks and 
Snarls ( Invaluable Facts 

and Information) 167-180 

Hide.s, Taking Off the 325 

Hunting the Moose 281-282 

Hunt and Catch the Musk- 
rat, How to 429-433 

Hunting, Hints About 291 

Injured in Camp, First Aid 
to 187 

Injured, First Aid to the — 
General Instructions. . 188-198 

Intelligence of Animals. .. 81-86 

Language of Animals or the 
Secret of Sign, The. .. 250-254 

Leaving Their Sign or Mark. 
109-112 

Locating Signals and Signs. 
119-122 

Long and Sharp Sightedness.l38j 

"Make Life Worth Living" . * 

181-182 

Marten, The 452-454 

Marten, How to Catch the . . 
Pine Marten, The 454-458 



JAN 24 1914 

CI,A363317 



CONTENTS— Continued. 



Page 

Mink, The 465-469 

Mink, To Catch 498 

Mink Skins 337 

Mountain Travel, Additional 

Hints 131-132 

Muskrat. The 427-429 

Muskrats "Without Traps, 

How to Catch 433-434 

Muskrat and the Parsnip, 

The 491-492 

Muskrat Skins 337 

458-460 

North, Finding the 130 

Opossum, The 419-426 

Other Baits 165-166 

Outfit and Outfitting 47-68 

Outfit ©r Clothing for One 

Year 133 

Otter Skins 335-337 

Peculiar Traits of Animals. 

112-118 

Plaineraft, Woodcraft and 
Mountain Travel (Hints to 

Sportsmen) 133-137 

Poultice, Charcoal 500 

Poultice, Mustard 500 

Poultice, Slippery Elm 500 

Poultice, Starch 501 

Poison Ivy and Sumacs 501 

Poisons and Antidotes, Spe- 
cial 188 

Porcupine, The 450-452 

Preparing Pelts, More About 
338-339 

Quail Trap 307 

Raccoon, The 383-387 

Raccoon, How to Catch the. 

337_390 

Raccoon ' Skins.". "."..".'.'.'.. 337-338 

Rabbits, To Trap 309 

Rates of Speed at Which 

Birds Fly Per Hour 498 

Ration Outfit for Two Men 

for One Year 135-137 

Reptiles in the United States, 

Poisonous 503 

Rattlesnakes, Dwarf 504 

Rattlesnakes, Typical 504 

Rattlesnake Poison Remedv.511 
Rifle Shooting, Hints on. 299-302 
Right and Wrong Equipment 

19-24 

Right Outfit, The 43-45 

Rocky Mountain Travel. . .75-80 



Page 
Scent or Smell, Power of.S7-lU4 
Scent and Sign, Power of . . . 

104-105 

Sense of Direction in Animal 

Life 247-250 

Serpents, List of North 

American Poisonous 503 

Setting Traps, Directions for 

346-347 

Sign Languages, Practical 

Illustrations of 257-258 

Sign Language, The Value of 

Noticing 258-259 

Calls 259-261 

Shelter 69-70 

Sign Language, Signals, Etc., 

More About 122-125 

Signals, Etc., Etc 107-108 

Shooting on the Wing. . 281-293 
Skins, Hints on the Value.. ISO 

Skunk, The 410-414 

Skunk, Trapping the. . . .414-418 
Skunk Trap, The Deadly . 488-489 
Sleeping Bag Ideal, The. . .73-75 
Small Skins, Stretching and • 

Curing 327 

Smoke 'em Out and • Secure 

Prime Fur 312 

Snakes, Elapine 503 

Snakes, Crotaline 504 

Snakes, Classification of Our 

Poisonous 504-505 

Snakes, Coral, How to Tell 

the 505 

Snakes, the Poisonous Ap- 
paratus of 506 

Snakes, How to Distinguish 

the Crotaline 506-507 

Snake, The Moccasin and the" 

Copperhead 507 

Snakes in the Eastern States, 

Poisonous 508 

Snakes, Poisonous, Erroneous 

Theories Concerning. . 508-509 
Snake Bite, Treatment of . . . 

509-511 

Snake Bites, Poison Ivy, 

Bites of Insects, Animals. 

Fish. Etc. (Poison and 

Their Antidotes) 199-200 

Snares 307 

Sportsmen and Trappers 

Taxidermy or Backwoods 

Taxidermy 316-324 

Starting Out 17-18 

Southern Travel. Hints for. 68-69 

Squirrels. To Trap 307 

Sunset Tints of the Sky.... 105 



CONTENTS— Continued. 



Page. 

Tracks and Trailing 263-278 

Trap, Gopher 309-311 

Tracking on Bare Ground.. 278 
The Sense of Direction. 236-247 
Tricks in Guiding and Scout- 
ing, and How to Stalk 
Game, Etc., Etc. (How to 

Hide Yourself) 129-130 

Trail and Bait Scents, Use 
and Abuse of (Right and 

AVrong Methods) 371-380 

Tricks of the Trade 487 

Trap — Sieve 307 

Traps, Hawk and Owl 309 

Trapping Water Animals . . . 

489-491 

Trapping in the Ozarks .... 

494-495 

Trapping in Illinois (Fur- 
Bearing Animals that are 
Caught East of the Missis- 
sippi) 496-497 

Trappers and Hunters Se- 
crets 497 

Tj-appers' Craft 223-225 

Trout Flies for April, Suit- 
able 159 

Trout Flies for May 161 

Trout Flies for June 161 

Trout Flies for July 162 

Trout Flies for August and 
September 162-163 



TRAPPERS CAMP KITCH- 
EN AND COOKERY. .512-517 

Genuine Montana Steak.. 512 
Beef or Mutton Broth.... 5 12 
Currv of Mutton or any 

Meats 512 

Svrian Stew 512-513 

Meat and Potato Pie 513 

Stewed Sheep's Hearts... 513 
Brown Gravy for Roast 

Meat 513 

Currant Jelly Gravy 514 

Mint Sauce and Mint Jelly.514 

Tomato Rarebit 514 

Green Corn, Tomato, and 

Cheese 514-515 

Macaroni and Cheese No. 

1 515 

Macaroni and Cheese No. 

2 515 

Macaroni with Cheese and 

Tomato Sauce 515 



Page* 

Spaghetti or Italian Maca- 
roni and Cheese. .. ,515-516 
Self Raising Flour (to 

make) 516 

Filling for Pies 516 

Pumpkin 516 

Custard 516 

Pointers 516-523 

If Cooking is Too Salt... 5 16 

To Preserve Bread 516 

Baked Bread on Hot 

Stones 516 

Leavened Bread 517 

What to Do With Stale 
Bread, Broken Pieces, 

Cracker Dust 

Stale Loaves 

Fried Egg Bread 517 

Under the Hypodermic Sy- 
ringe on an Exploring Voy- 
age or Trip 201-205 

Use of Strychnine for 
Wolves, Directions for. 344-345 

Use of Scents." 347-349 

Weasels, Skunks, Badgers, 
Marten, Etc., Etc 391-395 

Weather Observations, or 
Plow to Become Weather 
Wise 140-157 

(a) Upper Clouds (Average 
Altitude a Little Over Six 
Miles) 141 

(b) Intermediate Clouds...l41 

(c) Lower Clouds 142 

(d) Clouds of Diurnal As- 
cending Currents 142 

(e) High Fogs 142 

Weather Signs, Etc. ( Art 

of Foretelling Weather 

Changes) 143-144 

Wind Force Table 144 

Land and Sea Breezes. 145-146 
AVeather Signs, What the 
Bible Says About. ... 146-147 

Lightning Signs 147 

Winds of the Day 147 

Plants Which are Weather 

Prophets 149 

Halos and Coronae 149 

Still Other Weather Signs. . 

151-152 

Special Note 153 

Fish Which Foretell Weath- 
er Changes 153 

Weather, Additional Useful 
Hints on 155-157 



CONTENTS— Continued. 



Page. 

What to Do 213-220 

Wild Duck, Habits of the . . . 

297-298 

What Medicine do We Need. 221 
Wing Shooting-, Mistakes in. 295 
Wolf, Hunting- and Trapping- 

the 341-343 

Wolves, Poisoning- 343-344 

Wolves, Trapping- 345 

Wolves, Traps for 345-346 

Wolf Skins, Preservation of. 349 



Page 

Wolverine, The 407-409 

Wolverine, The 471-479 

Woods for Fuel 499-500 

Wolverine, The Tale of a 

(Poetry) 501-502 

Woods, A Bit About 157-159 

Woodcraft and Trappers 

Kno-wledge 37-42 

Word in Advance, A 11-14 

Wounds, Gunshot, Rifle, Etc., 

Treatment of 205-211 



Contents — Ginseng and 

Page. 

Roots and Drugs, Wild and 
Valuable 524-543 

Gingseng 524-526 

Gingseng, History and Value 
of One of the Best Drugs 
Ever Known 526-533 

Goldenseal, About the Hab- 
itat and Range of 533 



Other Medicinal Plants. 

Page. 

Goldenseal, Descriptions of. . 
535-546 

Rhizome or Rootstock, De- 
scription of the 536-537 

Collection and Preparation 

of the Root 537-538 

Pressed Wild Dry Barks, 
Flowers, Herbs, Leaves 
and Roots, Value of.. 538-543 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Page. 

A Prize Exhibit of Fine 
Furs 334 

A Secluded Nook 434 

American Game Birds 296 

( Plover, AVoodcock, Mal- 
lards, Wood Duck and 
Grouse.) 

American Wild Fowl and 

Shooting 304 

(Mallard, Teal and Can- 
vas Back Duck ; Canada 
Goose.) 

American " and Canadian 
Trappers' Badges and 
Ring 511 

A Good Place to Both Pick 
Up and Lose a Trail 210 

A Page of Specialties 214 

A Study in Animal Life and 
Ways 78 

An Ideal Camping Spot..... 10 

An Ideal Playground for the 
Fur and Feathered Deni- 
zens of the Woods and 
Forest 364 



Page 
An Old and Successful Trap- 
per and Guide (It's Ex- 
perience That Counts at 

the Game) 354 

Animal Bait for Mink 348 

Antlers and Horns of the 

Elk (Showing Growth) ... 272 
"An Exposition Exhibit of a 
Portable Camp and Its 

Equipment" 46 

Anglers' and Fisherman's 

Knots, Etc 150 

Antlers and Scent Glands... 102 

Brown Bear and Black Bear. 228 
Brown Bear Trapped 230 

Camp Cookery and Utensils. 66 
Camp Tables — How to Make 

Them 70 

Camp Beds — How to Make 

Them 72 

Camp and Outdoor Lighting 

Outfits 172 

Camp Lights and Cooking 

Outfits 178 

(For Cooking and Lighting 
inside a Tent.) 



ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued. 



Page. 
Caught This Pile of Birds. . .314 

Civet Cat 413 

Collection of Twelve Ginseng- 
Roots 530 

Ermine or White Weasel... 392 
Experience is the Best 
Teacher (His First Les- 
son) 366 

Favorite Traps and Their 
Uses 422 

Fine Furs, The Right and 
Wrong Methods of Dress- 
ing Them 332 

Fisher Marten 395 

Fisherman's and Angler's 
Specialties 158 

Ginseng 528 

Ginseng Plants Coming Up. .531 
Goldenseal (A Fruiting Plant 
and a Fruiting Branch of 
Goldenseal) 534 

Hints About Hunting (Now, 
Altogether, Incoming Shoot- 
ing) 290 

Hints and Pointers for 
Hunters, Sportsmen, Etc.. 3 10 

Hunters and Trappers Tak- 
ing It Easy 160 

Hints for Shot Gun Shooters.306 

Ideal Field Glass — Day or 
Night 93 

In a Tight Place 234 

In the Trappers' Absence 
(Bears) 118 

In the Trapper's Haunts. . . .370 

Muskrat at Home 432 

Nature Most Beautiful 324 

Pelts .Always in Demand. . . .362 
(Wild Cat, Lynx, Cross 
and Grey Fox, Ringtail 
Cat and Otter.) 

Photo of the Author, Col. 
Francis A. Buzzacott 8 

Portable Fireless Camp 
Cooker 44 

Reliable Camp or Sports- 
man's Specialties 54 

Popular Revolver and Rifle 
Cartridges 168 

The Porcupine 452 

Portable Boats, Canoes and 
Skiffs 216 



Page. 

Portable, Canvas, Steel Boats, 
Etc 222 

Portable Houses, Barracks, 
Cottages, Etc 82 

Portable Specialties in Camp 
Comforts 96 

Raccoon 383 

Rifle and Shot Gun Essen- 
tials 164 

Right and Wrong Ways of 
Travel 276 

Rope Bends, Hitches, Slip 
Knots 154 

Roots of Ginseng Showing 
Ages 529 

Rubber Specialties for Camp 
Uses 186 

Rubber Specialties for Camp 
Uses 206 

Sailors' Knots, Bends and 
Hitches 148 

"Shaw's Drowner" Readv for 
Use 462 

Scent Baits (Right and 
Wrong Kinds) 372 

Secrets of Trapping (Art of. 
Etc.) 428 

Sketches for Shot Gun Shoot- 

etrs 292 

(Sculling for Wild Fowl; 
Duck Hunting from 
Blinds Using Decoys.) 

Sketches for Shot Gun Shoot- 
ers 300 

(Flight Shooting and Wild 
Geese Shooting.) 

34 Silver Foxes Valued at 
$21,000 326 

Silver Fox and Marten Pelts. 336 

Skunk 410 

Smoke 'Em Out and Secure 
Prime Furs 312 

Some Good Work with Bait 
Scent 411 

Sportsmen's and Hunters' 
Handmade Knives and 
Pocket Axes 62 

Stalking Big Game (A Secret 
of the Hunter's Success) . .128 

Standard Types of Portable 
Hunting and Fishing Ca- 
noes 308 

Suggestions in Camp Acces- 
sories 64 

Su.ccess at Last 284 



ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued. 



Page- 

Tent Pole Accessories, Hang- 
ers, Etc 212 

These Trappers Used Trail 
and Bait Scent 350 

Things That Can Be Made 
in Camp 176 

Tracks of Animals "Spoor- 
ing" (A Study in Gaits 
and Tracks) 266 

Tracks of Animals (Close 
Comparisons, Showing How 
Mistakes are Made) ....'. .268 

Tracks and Trailing (Iden- 
tifying Sign or Trail) ... .264 

Tracks and Trails (Close 
Comparison Showing How 
Mistakes are Made) 270 

Traps for Water and Land 
Animals 428 

Trapp&rs' Huts (How to 
Build) 490 

"Twixt Woods' and Waters" 
( Where Prime Furs are 
Found) 418 

Teaching Its Young 352 

The Alligator Game Trap... 3 15 
The Alligator and Tree Trap 

with Double Jaws 314 

The Author's Pack Tent and 
Bedding" Which Can Be 

Carried in the Pack 470 

The Author's Diamond Tro- 

• phy 282 

The Ail-Around Wall Tent 
and Fly (Two Views).... 12 

The Badger 391 

The Beaver 449 

The Beaver at Work. 435 

The Correct AVay to Prepare 

Pelts or Skins 480 

The Sportsmen's Ideal Sleep- 
ing Bag Outfit Complete. .106 
The Hunters' and Trappers' 

Headquarters 126 

The Marten 453 

The Mink .464 

The Mink at Home in Win- 
ter 466 

The Muskrat 427 

The New "Stop Thief" Wire 

Trap 386 

The New "Stop Thief" Wire 

Trap 388 

The Opossum 419 

The Otter (Fish Catching) .. 420 

The Rabbit 380 

The Red Fox 351 



Page. 
The Trappers' Wagon Outfit. 4U9 
The A^'armest Dugout Shanty 
or Shack That Can Be 

Easily Built 479 

The A^'olverine 473 

There's a Reason to It All.. 20 
Things That Can Be Made 

in Camp 58 

Trap Set at Den of Skunks. .3S6 
Trapping in the Polar Re- 
gions 38 

(The Author and Siberian 

Trapper Avith Snow Ski) 
The Master Trailer at Work. 352 
Waterproof Ration or Grub 

Box with Table Combined 44 
The Trapper's Three Friends 48 
Waterproof Match Box, 
Compass, Skinning and 
Cutting Knife, Steel and 
Case. 
Tlie All Around Camp Sleep- 
ing Combination Outfit. ... 52 
Trappers' or Hunters' Tool 

Outfit 56 

Types of Portable Hunters' 
or Sportsmen's Camp 

Stoves 60 

Trappers' Favorite Rifies. . . 74 
The Famous Winchester and 

Savage Rifles 

The New 5 -Shot Automatic 

Shot Gun (12 Gauge) 76 

(The Trap Gun — The Mes- 
senger Gun.) 
Trieder Binocular Telescopes 94 
Types of Automatic ]\Iaga- 

zine Pistols and Revolvers. 136 
Types of High and Medium 

Grade Shot Guns .- . 134 

(Automatic Ejector Ham- 
merless Shot Gun, Re- 
peating Shot Gun. Ham- 
merless Shot Gun and 
Hammer Shot (3^un. ) 

Water Canteens and Cooking 

Outfits 50 

Water Knots, Hitches, Etc. ..156 
"Warner and Swasy Tele- 
scopes (High Power Bi- 
nocular) 92 

Weather Observations (A 
Study in Cloud Effects) . .140 

Wolf 341 

Wolves on the Trail of 
Game 340 



To the E,XPLORE,RS, 

HUNTILRS and 

TRAPPERS 

Those hardy and fearless pioneers of civili- 
zation, who have passed on and on through 
the wilderness, over plain and forest, open- 
»ing and spreading civilization, establishing 
new enterprizes; creating as a result a mighty 
empire of freedom, patriotism and Christian- 
ity; enabling us to enjoy the choicest gifts 
of this God's country and nature's paradise, 
and to the army of American sportsmen who 
are thus permitted to enjoy sport, such as no 
other country equals, without wantonly des- 
troying what they can not use, merely to 
satisfy a killing mania, and to those who 
will upon reflection, act and aid in the pres- 
ervation and propagation of life in our 
forests and streams, this book is respect- 
fully dedicated by the author. 





A WORD IN ADVANCE 

In submitting this, my second volume, to the nature lov- 
ing public, I wish to thank my many readers for the very 
generous way they received my previous work. It is largely 
due to this encouragement that I have labored, in this volume, 
to further gain your approval, and deserve or merit your 
patronage and support. 

The large circulation of my first book also shows clearly 
that facts minus sentim.ent, and truth without fiction, is as 
interesting as the general plan of mixing both, for this is an 
age when readers on such subjecte^ seem to desire to avoid 
sentiment, and get down to bare facts instead, preferring the 
"meat" of the nut only rather than the "shell" and all. 

In these pages it is not my intention to attempt to 
idealize wild animal life, or ascribe to them powers of rea- 
soning, or perceptive intelligence akin to the human. Far 
from it. 

But it is my aim and desire to credit them with all the 
intelligence that is due to wild animal life, in all the name 
implies, and to herein treat upon subjects which is the result 
of forty years' experience and observation amongst wild 
animals as a hunter, trapper, guide and explorer. 

In this work I have aimed to treat on subjects hitherto 
untouched, except in a scientific wav. and while I am fully 



12 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 13 

aware that of the countless volumes that have been written 
on the subject by masters of the pen, there is still room in the 
field for one at least from the hands of one of the rank 
and file. 

I am also aware that in this volume I upset many pet 
theories of many writers on these subjects, and strange 
though some of my statements may appear to be, I desire 
the reader to remember that there is a generation almost 
of experience and observation back of them all. 

In my citation of the Scriptures, I also ask the reader 
to overlook any digression from, subjects which may appear 
to be at first "foreign" to the matter, and as you go along 
the reason why will be made plainer to you later on. 

I would also invite attention to the fact that it is wrong 
in' my estimation to judge of the intelligence of wild animal 
life by comparisons made from those animals who are in 
captivity, because they are subject to unnatural and unex- 
pected impulses, brought about by the strain of confinement, 
which prompts them to become changed and prone to the 
extremes of disposition. This also applies to animals born 
or raised in captivity, for, as a rule, these are neither physi- 
cally or mentally perfect, and, despite appearance, are ill- 
natured and undeveloped, and liable to flighty, changeable 
moods — nervous, fearful, mean and selfish, and with few ex- 
ceptions, differ entirely from those creatures of the wild 
woods and forest, who are free to exercise all their natural 
powers, mental, physical and otherwise. These are depend- 
ent on their resources, free from all restraints and far superior 
in intelligences to those which in confinement are embittered 
and enthralled. 

Furthermore, I ask the reader to commence perusing 
this volume, not in part, but as a whole, from the first to the 
last page, for if this is not done you will fail to observe or 
see the connecting parts, so essential to an understanding 
of its peculiar scope or depth of the whole. 

In conclusion I can only say that the writer lays no claim 
to naturalistic or scientific tendencies, has .never even re- 
ceived a complete common school education, but for forty 
years has lived a life laid down in these chapters, and by 
experience and enthusiasm for my subjects have compiled 
this volume. 



14 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

To me it has been a life labor of love and hard work. 
I have written as I would speak to you, and try to put my 
personality and individuality in every page; no one has edited, 
corrected, added to or deducted from a single line or chapter, 
for I feel that to depart from this rule would be to lose the 
individuality or personality I desire you to be the judge of. 

As mentioned before, this is my second volume; the first, 
the "Sportmen's Guide," received such a welcome at your 
hands that I have been encouraged to still greater exertions 
in my endeavors to serve and interest you further with a 
still larger array of facts intended to instruct rather than to 
entertain as before. 

Faithfully and fraternally yours, 

(The Colonel) FRANCIS H. BUZZACOTT, 

Chicago, 111., 1913. 

Member of: British South African Expedition, 1878-9; 
Antarctic Expedition, 1879-81; Voyage to the Arctic, 
1881-4; Service of the U. S. Government, 1885-93; 
Spanish-American War Campaign, 1898; Wellman-Polar 
Expedition, 1906; • National Rifle Association; League 
of American Sportsmen; American and Canadian 
Sportsmen Association; American Geographical So- 
ciety; National Geographical Association; Association 
for the Advancement of Science; American Institute 
of Scientific Research. 



¥^ 




COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



AUTHOR'S INTRODUCTION 

. Take the map of America today, place your finger on any 
part of it — North, South, East or West — trace out Polar 
Ocean, Hudson Bay or Alaskan regions, westward to the 
Rockies, eastward to the Great Lakes, south to the Gulf of 
^Mexico, Central or South America, the Tropics, over clear 
to Cape Horn, if you will, back to the Arctic ice fields 
again. Ask who was the first men to "blaze a trail," "tote 
a pack" into its forest or wilderness, cross morass, marsh 
or swamp, force or shoot the treacherous rapid, portage its 
winding waterways, pass over mountain chains, chasm, foot- 
hills, plains, arid desert, barren or timber, and you'll find 
that m the history of American progress, side by side, hand 
in hand with pioneer craftsmen, the trapper has done his 
part; comes in for his equal share of honor or fame. 

When others pushed on beyond he alone penetrated the 
remaining untraveled regions, faced unknown dangers and 
"blazed a trail" that others or civilization could follow after. 
The thud of his axe or dead fall, the swish of the snare, the 
dripping gleam of the paddle, the click or snap of the trap, 
the flash of the flint-musket or its echo told the story of 
progress of his lone and lonesome tasks, while gleaming 
knife thrust, fur piles, scalp belt and a few bleached bones 
later told their silent tale of hunter and trapper being hunted 
and trapped in turn. Mattered it not if a trail ended there, 
others followed that way and pushed onward in advance of a 
■ mighty empire, which later followed in their wake. Un- 
known dangers were bravely faced, as was bitter frost, numb- 
ing cold, hunger, thirst or starvation even, a fortune lost 
or won, or loved ones sacrificed deterred not his irresistible 
progress onward; scant success, misery, dismal failure even 
was part of the game to be played, and he won and lost in 
turn. The yelp of the fox, the wail of the jackal or coyote, 
the scream of the panther, wolverine, the snarl of the wolf, 
the shriek of pain or the yell of triumph was all the sounds 
he heard — trapper's music then, as now. Such was the men 
and days of the past, and those who seek to be trappers to- 
day must in a measure, at least, emulate their ways, and, 
profiting by the experience of others, learn even to avoid 
their failures — yet achieve their successes. Life is too short 



16 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

for universal personal experiment; the successful man of 
today is the one who profits by the experience of others — 
reaps a harvest or reward. 

No man is a born woodsman or trapper. The choice of 
either following calls for men with red blood in their veins 
— men able to smile in the face of repeated failure, for 
mortifying failures will creep in no matter how old or ex- 
perienced one is at the game. Now the question hinges on 
turning failure into success — trying over and over' again, if 
needs be, with renewed interest; scheming, planning new 
methods to suit today's conditions as you find them; adapt- 
ing oneself to conditions and circumstances which are ever 
varying and seldom the same, taking into account all the 
little vexations and irregularities which creep into the game, 
and with stubborn persistency striving to overcome them — 
trying to do better, and with keen eyes, tireless feet, un- 
flagging zeal, putting heart and mind into the work and realiz- 
ing that no matter how experienced one may be there is al- 
ways something more to learn. 

There are so many movements in the checker-board life 
of a trapper that it is impossible to make any one system to 
cover the field. Animals are governed largely by the caprice 
of the moment; so should the trapper ever adapt himself to 
conditions as he finds them, which are seldom, if ever, the 
same, and by energetic practice and perseverance meet 
move with move, accepting and expecting defeat, discourage- 
ment, losses, failures, yet playing the game to win. Do this 
and failures will assure successes, for as in all other things 
so is it in the trapper's field. One eventually must win, 
that is if he puts his heart in the work, and first, last and all 
the time adds to his storehouse of knowledge as to wild 
animals' ways and how to circumvent them. 




COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 17 



^'STARTING OUT" 

To be a successful trapper or hunter depends neither on 
the elaborateness of one's outfit, kit, size of the tote pack, 
ability to juggle the irons or shoot so very straight. In- 
deed, in these days, we must learn not from the catalogue 
standpoint, but by profiting from the old and time-tried 
experience of those who have graduated before us in the 
knack of it all. 

We have books and stories galore of the personal experi- 
ence and reminiscences of the craft; hence, it shall not be 
my purpose to, in this volume, interest or entertain my 
readers on these lines; instead, to compile a work such as 
will instruct and serve you, one which can be read with profit 
before you take your trip to the woods, and which can be 
read with equal advantage after you get there, no matter 
whether your route lies through the forest or mountainways, 
along the blazed trail, beaten path, plain, desert or along the 
rippling waterways. Or if you are of the tribe who seek a 
livelihood thus, or one who, for a well-earned recreation, 
simply take to the tall timbers but once in a while. 

Indeed, it shall be the purpose of this volume to aid the 
reader by studying more the habits and peculiarities of the 
game and haunts we seek, believing that were the trapper 
or hunter of today to put more of such thought and care 
to his store-house of knowledge success would come much 
easier in many ways. Indeed, there is quite as much neces- 
sity of information on these lines as there is in the way of 
correct, right and light outfitting for such a trip. 

It is such things as these that has contributed much 
toward the success of most of our noted frontiersmen, trap- 
pers, hunters, scoutJ, guides, etc., be they Indian, native or 
white men, when out on their trips. All of them have 
profited by a thorough knowledge of the habits and peculi- 
arities of the game they seek, its location and the regions 
they traverse. With them these essentials are the all-im- 
portant, first, last — all the time, in fact; then why not with 
us, too? The whole trouble is, we pay too much attention 
to our outfit or kit and rely too much altogether on our 
shooting irons. It would be much better to put more of 
this time into studying "the ways of the animals instead. 
For is it not essential? As it is, we are really handicapped 



18 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

by ourselves, going into the woods or haunts of the game 
with too little knowledge of what to really do after we get 
there. 

These are the essentials to real success. Nine times 
out of ten one can attribute failure to the dire lack of knowl- 
edge of these things. 

There is plenty of game of all kinds, and killing it is the 
easiest task. The hard part of it is to know how, where, 
when to locate it, and one cannot do this unless they 
make a particular and thorough study of how to go about 
it correctly; much as did those famous guides who have 
gone before us, except perhaps that we, ourselves, must 
modify their ways so as to suit our today's conditions and 
needs. 

True, we first took our lessons in all these things from 
the Indian, past master of the art as he was then; but not 
today, because the white men have profited by and improved 
on his methods, even to putting into his hands the superior 
weapons and knowledge how to reach and kill game. We 
have gone ahead of him by leaps and bounds until, poor Lo, 
his skill and knowledge is almost a thing of the past. Years 
ago we marveled and wondered at his supremacy in the way 
of woodcraft, art of trailing and a hundred other things, but 
time has changed; we have advanced while the Indian has 
not, until he is nothing more than history, almost. No Indian 
ever lived could equal the all-around abilities or exploits of 
such Americans as Carson, Boone, Crockett, Bridger, Lewis, 
Clark, Houston and a hundred more that I could mention in 
days gone by, and even today there are many white men who 
can teach the Indian much that he never knew about even 
his own trade, woodcraft, or the art of living off the re- 
sources of the country that at one time was his own. Today 
the white man, trapper and hunter both, will exist where 
the Indian cannot, and even he himself acknowledges his 
short-comings and the supremacy of the white man's ways. 

Unfortunately, however, the new beginner, trapper, hunter, 
etc., makes the serious mistake of not emulating the achieve- 
ments or knowledge given out by these famous men, and 
are ourselves to blame for much that contributes to our 
failure in the hunt and our knowledge of woodcraft, and by 
pen and picture, both, I intend to try to show you plainly 
how, why and where we are at fault in many things at least. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 19 

RIGHT AND WRONG EQUIPMENT 

First of all, let us take the average hunter's garb — the 
dress or clothing today. Could anything be more inappropri- 
ate than the very rig which fashion has decreed the hunter 
or sportsman should wear? Here we have gone too far 
ahead for our own good, so much so that it greatly lessens 
our chances for success, and adds no little to our failure. 
From stem to stern, as the sailor says, or from the tip of our 
head to the soles of our feet, are we ill-fitted and incumbered 
with both clothing and equipment for the woods or the chase. 

L will go even further and say we are ridiculously garbed 
— so much so that even the hats, caps, clothing or boots such 
as we wear and use not only retards and hinders our progress, 
but lessens and diminishes our chances of success to a sur- 
prising degree. Indeed, when one really does give due con- 
sideration to these facts, all in all, it is enough to make one 
wonder how in the world some men really do succeed now- 
adays hunting. 

Would it not be more fitting, wiser and better, were we 
to garb or clothe ourselves appropriate to our surround- 
ings, and liken much to nature when in the wilderness or 
chase? As it is now, we rig ourselves in both clothing and 
equipment which, while it may seem all right to us, through 
our custom and ways of using it, is in itself enough to really 
scare or frighten the wits out of any bird or animal that 
crawls, creeps, walks, climbs, swims or observes us. • For 
do we not sacrifice looks, everything, for comfort, while the 
old experienced hunter sacrifices comfort for success, or at 
least he leaves his comforts where he can avail himself of 
them after success is assured. 

It is the experienced hunter who strips for the chase, 
who divests himself and person to every inappropriate gar- 
ment or item inessential to the trip, no matter be he in the 
Arctic regions, the tropics, the sunrise or the sunset country, 
it is the same; he travels right, light and in exact accordance 
with his requirements, season of the year, location, etc., first, 
last, all the time considering the conditions necessary to pur- 
suit of the game he is after and the regions he traverses. 
On the other hand, the new beginner garbs himself fero- 



20 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

EXPERT HUNTERS AND THEIR WAYS. 




There's a Reason to It All." 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 21 

ciousiy almost, and adds to it equipment galore that is in 
itself freakish and a burden in lots of ways. 

Instead of a close-fitting hunting shirt or tunic, such as 
takes on the natural color of the woods or surroundings, 
he usually garbs himself in various colors and styles, canvas, 
corduroy or cloth garments, that are positively discernible 
and alike to nothing about him, so much so that he is a 
movable, conspicuous, strange thing of life, that can be 
almost instantly seen with somewhat scarecrow effect by any 
critter that happens his way, or who gets within scent, eye or 
ear-shot of him. Instead of a light, close-fitting head dress 
approp^riate for the woods, he jabs on his head perhaps a 
wide-brimmed felt hat of a color and shape that not only 
enlarges his already big head, but which resembles nothing 
in the world like any one thing to be found in the woods. 
His outer garments show no more forethought, as they are 
ofte-i made of a cloth or material that has yards of excess 
stuff and ounces of weight that is superfluous and which rasps, 
invites or betrays the scratch of every bush or scrubble he 
comes in contact with, instead of being close-fitting or noise- 
lesslike, not to mention its d,ecided off color. His feet and 
ankles from the knee down is usually incased with a leather 
boot or heavy covering that is about five times as thick 
as needs be, and which alone betrays his nearness, strange- 
ness and ponderous weight wherever he goes, in every step 
h(^ takes. Indeed, he is neither silently or sensibly shod, nor 
does he seem to give it even passing thought. Around his 
waist, perhaps, is a belt full of brassy cartridges, or the 
ever essential gleaming axe or knife, while a huge, shiny 
buckle almost heliographs his proximity the distance of a 
rifle shot away. In his hands or on his shoulders he car- 
ries well in sight the almost polished blue steel barrelled 
weapon, with its dark and shiny stock that front or rear 
of him is to be observed, while perhaps on his shoulder he 
carries, humped on his back, his pack sack of essentials, 
jingle full of good things as he believes, but which adds to 
his already scare-crow, monstrous appearance. In his mouth 
the pipe, with its tobacco smoke curling and hovering above 
him; his other hand swings time with his careless gait, and 
he cares little or nothing for his towering height, breadth 
or weight, as he strides along at perhaps a lively, five-mile 



22 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



clip, craning his neck and head so as to see over every noo 
and cranny he can find in the distance beyond lumbering 
along like a big moose, and making about as much uncon- 
sciouslike racket as a whole family of bears would, trying 
to be quiet, I will admit, but absolutely at a disadvantage; 
perhaps, too, he has a guide or companion along, either or 
both for that matter, contributing in no small way to the 
breaking of that ever essential silence and stillness in the 
woods necessary for success. 

And now let us observe and follow the ways and teach- 
ings of the experienced trapper or hunter as a comparison — 
the man who makes it a business — trailer guide, Indian if 
you will, no matter where is his field, north, south, east or 
west, you will find him the same. To begin with, he is 
rightly and lightly equipped, silently and smoothly shod, 
appropriate to the work before him. Alatters it not if the 
snow lies hard and crusty, deep or soft before or behind 
him, or the leaves, branches or stubble dry or wet, overhead 
or beneath him. From his knees down the close-fitting soft 
breeches leg of buck or hairskin is formed animal-like and 
fitting to the very smooth sole of his comfortable, even 
homely, yet unpinched moccasin feet. From his waist or shirt 
down he is clothed in a rough way, too, but with every 
freedom of limbs; and yet there isn't a superfluous inch or 
ounce to impede or betray his quietest passage or progress 
through the thick brush, or over the barren if need be. 
Even its dirty color harmonizes with his surroundings. His 
garments may be patched and greasy, too, but even this is 
better suited for his purpose than new, harsh and stiff. 
He isn't on dress parade, and his "glad rags," if he possesses 
any, he wears on his back, while even its old color, faded 
maybe, likens to his surroundings. You will find, too, he 
is not adverse to hiding his big head in a bunch of dry 
grass, weeds, bush tops or a few tail-feathers when creep- 
ing up closer to good game haunts, for he knows by experi- 
ence that it wasn't all vanity, but a whole lot of common 
sense about the old Indian tricks of disguising their ap- 
proach toward game thus. He has learned, too, that hair, 
fur and feathers Vv^on't scare when big hats, caps and white 
strange faces will. He isn't a bit backward either about 
stuffing his hat or cap out of the way, and Indian-like sneak- 



n 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 23 

ing or crawling, snake-fashion on his knees a hundred yards 
or more for the chance to sight game, or twice that dis- 
tance for a closer, better, surer shot. To him it is pleasure, 
woodcraft, and he chuckles and is repaid when he chances to 
seek, deceive or reassure the frightened quarry he seeks, 
and prides himself on his ability to make good thus. 

Neither does he load himself down with a 'belt full of 
ammunition and fixing, or carry a tote-sack about with him 
habitually. If he does, you will find it both "jingle and fool 
proof," and rtiost likely hidden somewhere in the woods 
about where he can lay his hands on it when needed. He 
has learned, too, the natural noises or wood talk, and- loves 
to imitate the cries of the animals, or the forest sounds, 
as he strives to conceal his own noises. He studies the 
ways of the critters he is after, and seeks its meat or pelts 
in a business-like way — gets it and sport besides; not the 
hide-and-seek work and play we indulge in, and honestly 
he gets through life for a week in the woods with less 
truck and fixings than lots of individuals who call them- 
selves hunters take on any single day's trip. 

Think it over, and at best we won't have to theorize 
much as to the reason of it all. 

Not only this, but as master of woodcraft, he stands 
second to none, for like the Indian he, too, studied the ways 
of the woods and life therein. To him this was his book 
or catalogue — the birds and animals he is after his subjects, 
as must you, too, who would follow his ways. He has 
learned by patience and perception these instead of other 
things, and realizes the value of silence, mimicry, and pays 
heed to those things more than to his kit or camp. Should 
perchance he miss his way or his cache or camp becomes 
lost, "he isn't," and his fortitude and indifference to such 
hardship is like his 'brevity of speech in such cases, sur- 
prising at least. For he will then perform his journeys 
ahead or 'back, without the aid of geography, compass or 
astronomy, knowledge, better perhaps than most of us do 
with all three; if there is such a thing as the "sense of 
direction," he certainly shows the ear-marks of having it. 
Yet, back of it all, hard common sense is the secret of even 
this. 

The compass he knows not perhaps, or to him, like many 



24 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



other hunters, it is but a puzzling doubt. The sunset, sun- 
rise, its opposite directions, his memory and eyes point the 
way to both his destination and back track, like the lark to 
its nest, or the bee to its tree. 

The clump of brushes, waterways, rocks, hills, barren, 
valley or the big trees are his guiding landmarks that once 
looked for and seen he seldom forgets. And if he has never 
traveled certain routes, or in regions unknown to him, one 
has but to point the direction correctly, and he will find it, 
or return to his "cache" or starting point to try it all over 
again. 

If hunting, he is never more happy than when going 
alone and light, because he is not handicapped by the other 
fellows or their ways. He eats when he is hungry, and 
not by clock time, and the fire he builds to cook his food 
with, or the ashes he leaves, could be covered with the brim 
of his hat. To him sand-hills, prairie, barren, mountain or 
wilderness travel is the same. The simple kit his motto^ — 
and he is not adverse to building shelter and making himself 
comfortable when on the trail of game, racher than hiking 
back to any distance for camp comforts, for he has learned 
the art of partly gathering his sustenance, foods and medi- 
cine from the wilderness, just as did the Indians or their 
forefathers perhaps before them. For have they not profited 
by the experiences of others and the lessons which were 
taught in all these things, just as you can if you but will. 




■^'^rf*^ 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 25 



THE FIRST LESSONS 

And now for the first lessons: It is such men as these 
that we are indebted to for much of the preliminary knowl- 
edge which goes far toward later unfolding to us the many 
secrets and mysteries of nature and the chase. In our travels 
amidst the wilderness we soon learn that the owl has silent 
wings that hardly rustle, and is thus seldom heard, and that 
he often hoots only, that his ears and eyes may better locate 
his thus scared or fleeing prey, and that these traits make 
him the dreaded Ghost of the Woods. We learn, too, that 
'birds even build and maintain decoy nests which they ar- 
range in the open to deceive their enemies, while they hide 
their own young with almost human intelligence elsewhere. 
It does not take us long when we study such simple things 
to find that while nature provides birds with wings, that 
they must be taught, coaxed and driven to fly, as is the 
animal to swim, climb or jump, and that the much talked of 
instinct does not avail them in the ability to even find or 
catch their food, or hide from the pursuit of their enemies; 
that even the males of their own as well as other species are 
constantly seeking to end their existence; that even the 
mother kills her own offspring that appear deformed or can- 
not learn correctly, or that becomes thus a burden; that even 
birds and animals can at times partly conceal or withhold 
their scent, by which their enemies are deceived or mis- 
led; that there are many birds who cannot see straight, 
and that the cute sideway glances we admire really often 
mean that they are looking straight at you. And as we go 
deeper into the study of woods life, we find even the much 
thought and taught instinctive flights and migrations of birds 
and animals are mostly but "follow the majorfty plan" — 
and that birds and animals flock together at times only for 
a given and express purpose, all acting under the leadership 
and instructions of one who assumes and commands obedi- 
ence by dint of superior knowledge, and upholds his or her 
rights to the merited position by battle with whomsoever 
of his host, flock or herd that opposes or challenges his 
rights to the coveted honor; that they hear, see and speak 
the silent languages that we can even learn to use, all of 



26 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

which can be used to further our success in the chase, as we 
shall later see. 

We know, too, of their abilities to communicate their 
wants, dislikes and fears to each other, and we shall later 
learn how they signal and use those signs; that they hold 
these conferences and pass judgment for offenses upon each 
other, to each other even. Nor have we far to look for 
proof of all these things. Animal and bird life depend for 
their existence, much as we do, not upon instinct alone, 
but by experience, observation and the admirable, diligent 
teachings of their parent species and kinds, of which we have 
every proof, and by the fact that left to their own resources 
the young bird, fish or animal, is the first to fall a victim 
to its enemies; that certain of them prey on each other, 
much as did the human savage race in days gone by, for 
with them even it is the survival of the fittest and the pass- 
ing of the weak and helpless even to Cannibalism, as we know. 

We will learn, too, of the hairless, furless and 'bare- 
skinned creatures, and to those of the many and varied 
garbed, such as we are, and that even the baby beaver and 
otter fears the waters it must exist in, and sometimes re- 
quires its mother parent to use force to teach it the first 
rudiments of swimming even, much as is the young eagle 
taught to kill; that scent nor sight of man does not alarm 
the little helpless creatures who have not yet been taught 
these lessons; that curiosity is more instinctive in young 
animal nature than fear, and that they did not always regard 
man as an enemy, and it is but education in the knowledge of 
man's killing power and habits that makes his approach to 
them almost impossible, and that in regions where they have 
not been hunted animals even suffer themselves to be ap- 
proached and handled by men, and yet let them but receive 
their lesson they will hide or flee from man who harmed 
them not even. 

Perhaps not one out of a dozen of the animals that we 
see in the woods today has even been hunted or shot at 
by man. But it has been taught that his is the danger scent 
of all to be feared, and in obedience to its teachings or 
inpulsive lessons, and the effect of intuitive habit, it regards 
mankind as its greatest enemy of all things to avoid; and 
if we will but ourselves take a few doses of reason and judg- 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 27 

ment, we will soon learn to combat these things, and to use 
or turn the knowledge thus gained to place them within our 
power, or capture them. 

We will find, too, that with animal life extreme watch- 
fulness becomes a natural habit, and is not prompted by 
habitual fear; that this intelligence is the result of observa- 
tion, much as is ours. Hence, we must exert our superior 
senses to overcome theirs, remindful of the fact that they 
are not living the half-scared kind of life we think, but in- 
stead, in a contented sort of way, despite the fact of their 
being sought for and eaten by their enemies, hunting or 
hunted as the case may be. To them it is survival of the 
fittest, and there are unquestionably times when all animals 
seem to be at peace with each other; again, when all seem 
to be out, and the woods fairly alive with them hunting and 
being hunted — all possessing and seeming to enjoy their 
powers to in some way combat their enemies or capture 
their prey, they seem to decide whether or not to risk a 
combat or match themselves in fight or flight, as the case 
may be, or to, by subtle expediences, avoid, elude or outclass 
them. Here, then, is called in their ability to run, dodge, 
jump, climb, hide or swim, or seek the most advantageous 
shelter, where they are safe. We find proof of this in many 
striking ways, which we can with good profit turn to our 
account and their detriment; the tree climber always striking 
for the nearest trees, the antelope or caribou to the open, the 
moose and bear to the thicket, or water animal, like tht 
otter, beaver, etc., to the nearest and deepest water, con- 
ditions, of course, even governing these things. On the 
other hand, assuming that the chances of the battle are un- 
equal in any way, it results in the attempt to outgeneral 
one another in a way, as I have before emphasized, either 
by fight, flight, tr.ickery, or even the acknowledgment of de- 
feat, and to trust whiningly to the mercy or possibility of 
escape from its unrelenting foe. 

Again, by the same token do they seem to realize when 
capture means, death, as is evinced by the most frantic 
struggle and effort to escape. And now comes the strangest 
part of it all — so strange does it all seem that at first one is 
inclined to doubt the truth of it, and yet, if we will only stop 
to think, we will realize and give due credence to the fact 



38 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

nevertheless, that to the captured or beaten animal sub- 
mission and even death comes much easier than we with our 
tender thoughts imagine, for prior to the creature's death the 
animail seems to lose the sense of pain, if not all feeling. 

Not that it is without pain or even suffering, but that it 
really is far less than our trained or over-sensitive nerves 
suspect or think. Nor do we have to look far for every 
proof or authority in these things. Take, for instance, our- 
selves. Thousands of such incidents happen amongst us 
in this world, when mortal and terrible, even fatal wounds 
have been inflicted, where in the excitement or heat of pas- 
sion, or even fear, without any pain whatsoever being experi- 
enced. Not only this, but we have been known to feel no 
effects and to remain even in ignorance of "what struck 
us" until, perhaps, hours after others called attention to the 
wounds, or we felt its effect from natural yet ignorant con- 
sequences. But, then, this is but an incident, one out of a 
hundred perhaps that we know of, where death seemingly 
comes, devoid or robbed of all or most pain whatever. And 
that this is all the more so in "wild animal life" I feel most 
positive. 

Ask any old trapper or hunter of experience and he 
will tell you of a hundred more such instances of but little 
sufferings from wild animal life thus, and that kind and 
merciful nature seems to indicate and provide an almost 
painless and submissive ending; that the shriek we some- 
times hear, and attribute to pain, likens only to the cry of 
fright or the signal that it realizes it is doomed. It might 
be, too, that Providence suffers such an apparently violent 
death, not unlike that of our own, in lots of cases, where 
we pass away slowly but surely, even without suffering, 
although perhaps but a while before existence and life was 
by disease or accident rendered an unenduring torture. 

Hence, let us but hope that nature is but kindly thus 
to the creatures in the woods. This much we do know: God 
in His infinite ways and goodness of heart has made proper 
provision for all things of His creation, and of this we are 
certain. 

Again, too, we learn why nature has formed their animal 
bodies of such peculiar shapes and variety of form, all with 
a purpose as we find, be it of climbing, sneaking, running. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 29 

crawling, swimming or amphibious kind, and the more we 
study these things the more we marvel at how wonderfully 
nature has fitly endowed them. 

Even the seemingly ungainly moose or caribou, when we 
have studied them, appearing ideal from the point of its 
teeth to the tip of its tail, there is something to be learned, 
inasmuch as they correspond exactly to their uses of these 
things. Jaws for gnawing, cutting, tearing, holding, chew- 
ing, sucking, snapping or crushing; even to the construc- 
tion of feet or hoofs being most wonderfully correct, and in 
accordance with its purpose, no two 'being alike perhaps, 
and even the tails answering certain functions, as we shall 
all learn later on. 

The squirrel tail even gives us an instance of a three- 
fold use in propulsion, support or balancing power, and in 
its leaping, acting somewhat on the aeroplane principle, 
which we are now aiming to attain, this applying mostly to 
animals of a leaping, climbing nature, especially so in the 
species which we find employ their fore paws for other 
purposes at the same time, while in animals of an opposite 
nature its functions and use grow less, as we shall later see. 

Indeed, in every animal we find such differences. Take, 
for instance, in the paws and claws — some are capable of 
retraction, sharp cutting and having holding powers, others 
for prolonged digging or powerful blows, as instanced in the 
wolverine, badger and bear. Others are capable of con- 
tinued flights, leaps, and of such form and shape as aids in 
their progress through the dense thicket and deep under- 
brush, over plain, barren or mountain cliff, while others 
possess all these traits in combination. 

We will learn, too, as we go along that the hard hoof of 
the deer or antelope cracks and snaps the twig that lies in 
his path, while that of the bear crushes and muffles the 
sound, while the weasel glides over it noiselessly; that the 
foot of the reindeer or caribou enables its free use and 
serves as a snow shoe almost in the deep soft snows of the 
valley, plain or barren, and yet gives forth a crackling, noisy 
sound peculiar to their trotting pace. Examine the foot and 
you will find it spreading or clover like, and expanding its 
edge even sharp, so that it travels softly and easily over 
the smooth and slippery ice, and at the same time enables 



30 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

him to dig deeply down for his moss and lichens or foods on 
which he depends for his existence in the treeless wastes 
or arctic barrens. 

On the other hand you will find the hoof of the moose, 
deer and antelope so blunt and thin, rendering travel thus 
in the deep snows next to impossible, especially so if crusted. 
Hence, do they hug the woods and feed, straddle or ride 
down the bushes, smaller trees and twigs and maples, and 
travel not so far, ofttimes necessitating "y^^ding" in the dis- 
tricts which they traverse, not the yards that many of our 
readers and writers infer, but twisted long trails and passage- 
ways through the snow and trees that lead here and there for 
miles, and which, to keep open, they even travel frequently 
through the woods to keep thus so. 

While the caribou roams as he pleases almost in low 
barren tundra or morass, travels far and near as is his want, 
feeding either on the deeply covered nourishing lichens or 
on the tree mosses of the forest "windfalls." 

Again, too, we cannot help but marvel at the process 
of evolution in animals and habits. Take, for instance, the 
otter, bear, fisher and the animals who have acquired the 
habit of taking to the water, fishing and also climbing trees. 
All bears love to fish. The polar bear lives thus, and even 
outdoes the fish, walrus or seal in speed and fishing. Even 
old "Eph," the grizzly king, who climbs not the trees, yet 
is as good a fisherman as any, while the otter and fisher 
does all three, and holds his own with the best of them, 
and digs his hole in the ground besides. Even the Indian, 
Lapplander and Newfoundland dog and others turn fisher- 
man and hunter, and there is hardly a dog of the north but 
turns out to be even excellent salmon fishers, and yet the 
beaver, who inhabits the waters mostly, prefers the bark of 
trees and woods for his food. Water is his home nearly, 
5^et he builds houses that defy the elements, animals and man 
almost to break open and enter, ahd who, unlike all other 
animals, have strong family ties which bind even genera- 
tions of them together in one large family, year after year, 
even to enlarging their homes to accommodate the increase 
and growth thereof, or moving, building even larger and more 
commodious quarters if needs b^, much as we build larger 
and more commodious houses to accommodate a growing 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 31 

and congenial family, and who seem to grieve and mourn 
the loss of a member or loved one even to the extent of 
becoming outcasts and bachelors, seeking solitude and liv- 
ing thus apart or forced away from others — a vast dis- 
tinction between those animals whom, as I have mentioned be- 
fore, drive out and desert their young or destroy them, 
simply to get rid of them — in accordance with wild animal 
ways. 

Again, we will learn of the traits of these blood-sucking 
vampires, of the weasel tribe, demons of the woods as they 
are, tell of the martens, sables, and wolverines, ways, and 
the power of the trapper which enables him to both lure 
and deceive even the most blood thirsty of them; of their 
remarkable sense of smell and their unconquerable desire 
to kill, even after their unsatiable appetites are appeased; 
even to the death-hold of the playful badger and the use 
of its hair — all shall be taken up in turn, in an effort to 
show that of life in the woods, indeed we have much yet 
to learn. 

As we go further along we find out and learn of the 
reason why and when animals change their coats of hair 
and fur, and how it takes on the more suitable colorings and 
weights; as to how and why the antlered monarchs of the 
forest lose and grow their successive horns; why even the 
hairless species supplement their bodies more or less with 
layers of warm fat or "blubber" as their seasons or sur- 
roundings call for, especially in the case of all sea and 
water fur-bearing animals, and show why seals of the fur 
and hair variety seek the land and distant rookeries during 
their breeding- seasons, there remaining at times for weeks 
without water or food, bearing their young and guarded 
and isolated by their mates, so much so that when they 
take to the waters again they must often swallow stones 
to ballast or balance their bodies for the swim again, strange 
though it may seem. Again, too, how nearly all the different 
water and land animals even secrete, retain and give off 
their peculiar odors or scent, by which they are recognized, 
repel, attract or arouse the passions of the opposite sex. 
How generally these differ in each individual specie; show 
you how they act where they are found; that their functions 
and their uses may be noted with interest or used with profit 



32 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

and value — things generally known by all trappers, but by 
few hunters, as a rule. Again, too, how this greasy and 
oily substance can be located where it shall be found to 
terminate from the gland to sac or bladder like a receptacle, 
wherein it is made and stored as a product and made by the 
yielded process of nature, and why it is especially strong 
and active in the rutting or breeding season, morq than at 
other times; hence, more valuable. 

I shall show you that it is by these scent glands that they 
recognize friends or enemies, even to the sexes without 
seeing them, added to by powerful hearing and eyes that 
particularly see motion. We shall learn, too, that nine out 
of ten animals can be deceived or lur'ed by the hunter or 
trapper, even when close to them, by remaining still and not 
moving; that he even can attract, lure and deceive them with 
the belief that we are of their kind, even to the mimicry 
of their movements, sounds and smell, and that as long as 
you remain still, they seem to be in doubt or uncertainty of 
your actual identification, and if you watch them closely, 
you will even see them search for you with their ears, and 
lick their nostrils and take more frequent long sniffs to 
make their scent more keen, thus showing that he trusts 
not to the easily deceived eye, but to his other and better 
powers. Failing in this, he will perhaps even challenge you 
in a peculiar but certain way, rising on the hind feet sud- 
denly to take a better view, or by a stamp of their fore and 
hind feet or by a jump toward you, all with a view of 
receiving an answer; that, too, even the Indian and old 
hunters can answer this challenge, animal like, even to a 
degree of reassurance, such as you never dreamed of, mim- 
icing a friendly cry of its own or other harmless species, 
even to the employment of a deceiving scent to aid in the 
deception, for, mind you, man himself gives off a scent that 
is fatal to success in the very near approach of game. 
Especially so is this the case when his body 'becomes heated, 
excited or perspiring, and if you have hunted or trapped 
much, you can soon learn to distinguish the larger animals 
yourself by this peculiar scent, especially so in certain 
seasons and in the dense woods, when the leaves are moist 
and the atmosphere damp and close. This is particularly 
noticeable around dens, moose yards, runways or other 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 33 

regular feeding or breeding grounds; then it is not only 
perceptible, but at times objectionable almost — birds even 
being included in this as well as many of the species, giving 
off a stronger scent thus than others, rendering it an easy 
matter for men experienced in such things to even identify 
the animal to which it belongs. Nor is this trait confined 
to life in the woods. Fishermen, even "whalers" of experi- 
ence, smell fishable waters with a positive degree of cer- 
tainty; in fact, there is hardly a cod or mackerel fisher but 
can, by these means, locate and follow a shoal or school of 
fish even at night, for they give off even a more perceptible 
scent or smell than do the animals, just as does the pine, 
cedan or other dense woods betray its proximity to the nose 
of the experienced woodsman long before he reaches or 
sees them. 

Neither must we forget that there are birds who burrow 
neath the ground or Arctic snows for their home, while 
animals even nest in trees; that, too, birds build nests from 
the down of their breast only, yet never nest in trees; that 
there are birds that can fly, but cannot walk; even birds that 
swim, yet cannot fly; others that "strut" and parade their 
beauty, form partners and even dance to the music of their 
own cackle and play games, such as even we. Perhaps, too, 
among my readers, there are those who have not yet seen 
or heard of the "White Flag" in the woods or chase, or 
learned by experience the teachings and signals that its ever 
silent movements give. If so, perhaps he has not yet learned 
that even tails can talk, and if he has learned all this perhaps, 
too, he -listened to the mournfu4 cry of the mother animal 
seeking its lost one, or the plaintive cry of the young seek- 
ing its parent, which he has gathered to his harvest or stock 
of pelts by his skill as a trapper, or the distant shot of a wan- 
dering one when hunting. If so, he will remember, for it is 
one of those sounds or lessons of nature that once taught 
is rarely forgotten, yet often practiced in the "Lure of the 
Wild." 

Nor have we forgotten the dissimilarity of animals, or the 
peculiar or well known traits — the subtle craftiness of the 
wily Fox, who in the unequal chase even leads us all astray; 
of the animals of the Cat tribe, whose tail so plainly be- 
speaks anger or fear, of the home-loving, almost human abili- 



34 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

ties of the Beaver, of the Prairie Dog, Owl and Rattle- 
Snake, who while they prey on the young of each other, nev- 
ertheless live in terms of toleration, if not intimacy, together 
in their similar though strange underground homes. 

We will see, too, the Otter slide the steep bank in playful 
glee, or •the Bear and Coon drop from the high tree without 
hurt or harm to themselves; learn how the Possum and 
Fox both feign death and suffer even the test of torture and 
time, and find out why there are hairless tails; that even 
birds imprison their mates, and why and how it is done; that 
there are even wild plants and flowers that trap, catch and 
eat insects; that there are birds who can stand, run and 
dance on the waters; that fish frozen for weeks can be 
thawed out and live again. Learn, too, of the duration or 
age of life in all birds and animals, and that all animals fear 
both the storm, lightning and thunder, hole and den up be- 
fore and during storms; that the hibernating habit is not 
confined to the bear, and that they often do not hibernate 
at all, and wh}^ Xot only this, but of their lethargy, medicine 
and foods which enable them to hibernate, and the antidote 
they seek when the long sleep is over for recuperation. 

We will learn, too, that animals and birds are good weather 
prophets, and are particularly busy and active at certain times, 
and at others are not; that even we can learn much of unmis- 
takable weather signs which will b& favorable or unfavorable 
to the chase: that all animals stay holed or denned up, or 
huddle together at frequent periods, and likewise that it is 
useless to hunt for them at these times; that the very mark 
on the trail of their feet shows plainly their actions, route, 
size and even indicate to the speed at which they are actually 
traveling; that even animals lose their control of action and 
get rattled, much as does the hunter who experiences so- 
called "Buck Fever," and that it is fright, not fascination or 
charming, that enables the snake to secure its prey. 

We will know, too, why animals become nocjiurnal in their 
habits, roam around at night instead of day, and go particu- 
larly into the details as to when is the best time and where 
are the best places to locate and find each and every species. 
We shall learn, too, of their sickness and disease and how 
they search for the medicine plants and roots that we our- 
selves use as drugs to combat their ills; learn even how they 



CO'MiPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 35 

meet death with that same degree of equanimity as they 
inflict it upon others; that kind and wise Nature teaches 
even the animals to anticipate and prepare for death from old 
age, robs it of its seeming terrors, and commands submis- 
sion to its strange laws, many as they are, indeed. 

In concluding the chapter and subject I can only say: Who 
is there among us who have hunted much and heard not the 
sudden long, low bellow of the Cow Moose? Or the unnat- 
ural one made from the Birch Bark Cone, in the hands of the 
experienced hunter or guide, which is sometimes answered 
and followed ^by the Bull Moose in reply? If so, perhaps 
he has heard the "Challenging Call" or the "Chug"; if so, 
perhaps he has seen the ]\Ionarch of the Wilderness answer 
and breast down or ride the young sapling of the Moosewood, 
Birch, Willow or Maple Tree for its mate. 

Perhaps, too, he has witnessed the rival struggle for the 
favors and possession of the Forest Queen, and if so, maybe 
you have been told of the once King of the Caribou or Moos- 
herd who, though majestic, through old age has been cast 
out and forced to roam in silence, forever and alone an out- 
cast of his kin. And far and deep into the almost impene- 
trable depths of the forest woods, once in a lifetime the old 
hunters and trappers come across their "boneyards," where, 
the mighty Monarchs of the Forest seek the same lasting 
resting places of the Antlered Tribe that have passed away 
in peace before them, and that these seemingly ghostly places 
are or seem to be shunned by others unto the last of their 
doughty race, even remembering his teachings or instincts 
to the very end. 

"For the Master of Destinies in ]\Iercies does mind 
All of the creatures as well as mankind." 

Again, too, why not make a study of everything that per- 
tains to the woods and waters as well as life therein, and apply 
the knowledge thus gained to our mutual advantage, when in 
the chase or whilst living in the woods or forest, where we 
sojourn, that we may reap the benefits thereof? Why not 
learn of the varied and peculiar, or valuable properties of the 
trees, woods, barks, plants and roots, of the formation of 
hills, prairies, mountains, valleys plain barren or thickets, 
wherein hides and lives the game we seek, and over or through 



36 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



which our route lies — all this that our skill in anything which 
pertains to the chase or hunt may increase and lead to suc- 
cess under every condition, whether it be that of living off 
the resources of the country we are in ourselves or to in- 
structing others as to similar requirements. To do this we 
must unlearn much which civilization and progress has taught 
us, and learn again that which our forefathers really knew 
before us, but which in these days of advanced civilization 
we have almost forgotten; not that it is essential, not that 
such knowledge might be, but that it will at least add to our 
success, whether it be for a week or a month, or in a single 
day. 

And while speaking of this, let it be borne in mind that 
such things are of value in a thousand other ways than to the 
hunter or trapper alone. The Geologist, Ranchman, Farmer, 
Builder, Homeseeker, Explorer or Traveler all benefit in very 
many ways by such knowledge. Indeed, it is often such 
information as leads up to a more definite way of determining' 
the habits and peculiarities of the game we seek, and aids 
to its pursuit and capture. By such knowledge we familiarize 
ourselves with their failings and shortcomings, learn why they 
seek certain locations, when they are to be found there, when 
nor, and why. 




:)S*''W' 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 37 



WOODCRAFT AND TRAPPERS KNOWLEDGE 

To follow them by track or trail to avoid their knowledge, 
or to impose upon their ignorance and to match cunning 
with skill and superior intelligence. Thus to do we learn 
the rules of Wilderness, Mountains or Desert Travel, how to 
prepare the hides or pelts of the animals we trap or kill for 
the market, shelter, footwear or clothing, and its flesh for 
food, for present, future or emergency uses, so that the jour- 
neys through the forest can be made safely and easily. By 
it we learn the use of barks, roots and plants of life and profit 
thereby, whether it be under the burning sun or the tropical 
wilderness, the lowlands of the temperate zone, or facing the 
winters of blast in desolate regions amidst deep, soft or 
frozen snow through which we must pass, depending for our 
existence or in search of gain. 

Here must the trapper find his way, his food, his drink, 
and perhaps his coverings or shelter. He must trail or find 
his game, kill and dress it, make his fires, fashion his weap- 
ons or his clothes, and keep himself warm; to dress a 
wound, cure the bite of a serpent or rabid animal, sting of 
the insect, nurse or starve the fever or feed the cold. In the 
treeless wastes he must learn to climb for water or dig for 
his wood, thus reversing the useful customs with which he 
is most familiar. Again, to build a snare, dead or pitfall 
trap, when his weapons fail, to form the crude snow shoe 
or ski — scale a mountain, climb a tree, or make a fording 
across a treacherous stream, or improvise a sling-shot, bow 
and arrow, to pack a ca3mse, build a raft, boat, skin or bark 
canoe, shoot a rapid, climb a mountain or bridge a pass; he 
will learn to mimic the hoot of the owl, the drumming of 
the grouse, the cry of the eagle, call of the moose or elk, 
howl of the wolf, coyote or the yelp of the fox, to trail them 
from the sound, or by the track and sign, be it the fox, 
beaver, lynx or bear. He learns, too, of the approaching 
storm, the herald of the frost, sun dogs, or the token — halos — 
of clearer weather; to locate the fixed and planetary stars, 
to guide himself by, learn the time of day without a watch, 
or to guide himself without a compass. Not that he is to 
master all these things, but that should occasion arise he 
can by his own abilities provide for his own and others' 



38 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



TRAPPING IN THE POLAR REGIONS 




The Author and Siberian Trapper with Snow Ski. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE , 39 

wants, in a way such as he gained his other knowledge from 
books, school and study, and does one but bend his energies 
in this direction, such knowledge he will find greatly to his 
advantage in many crafts and stages of life, when the need 
of such things arise. • 

"For Nature unfolds its secrets bare. 
And we profit by all we find written there." 

Why not, then, commit to me<nory the signs and tokens 
which lay and are to be found along our trail and route, 
watch the tracks of the animals we seek, and trace them to 
their lair or search for the shrubs and roots which form 
their fcods? Why not know that the poplar and birch bark 
of spruce gum will repair a boat or build one — that sedge 
grass will yield twine that the woods of the forest will 
build us shelter — that moss, mud or clay will clink its crevices 
or plaster its cracks, or that bark and sods roof it well — 
that bulbs, tuberous roots, bark of trees, mushrooms and even 
leaves and plants increase our food supplies — of the fatty or 
resinous woods that yield torch and light? 

No man can ridicule such knowledge, lest some time in 
life he may feel the efifects of his ignorance. Why not qualify 
in these things as well as in the use of rifle or trap? Has 
not such knowledge made American woodsmen famous, and 
added chapters to our history and success, to which all the 
world has listened, the age marveled at and profited by? 

No man is a born woodsman. By his knowledge, though 
he may acquire the title, and yet all can learn by observa- 
tion, study, notice and memorize that which will often serve 
and repay us in "tight places," and lead to the capture of 
perhaps a dozen animals instead of one. 

Is not trailing an important art? Without it he can 
neither disguise his own "hoof marks" nor follow and locate 
the quarry he seeks. He must learn to perceive and "read 
signs'" for the correctness of his judgment depends on it. 
"Sign is not trail," but trailing is the art of involving trail 
from sign. By it he learns to read strange marks on the 
snow or ground that to others would be lost, to tell what 
made it, its age, size and the direction it goes. A meaning- 
less mark is thus turned to his advantage and profit, and if 
he lacks skill as a shot he makes up the deficiency and more 



40 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

by trailing, which to the trapper is now as essential as is the 
hinds of the chase, for by these means does he at times in- 
crease his catch sixfold, or supplement his knowledge, store 
and provisions. 

Let, tl>en, the reader study well these pages and chapters 
of this volume, for in them there is much of the first rudi- 
ments to knowledge of this kind. It is for you alone to 
take up the subject you deem most fitting to your purposes, 
and to learn by observation morie if you will, and if you 
but set your mind upon the accomplishment of a given pur- 
pose it will be found an easy task, especially so if you fol- 
low up the information given you or suggested by these 
pages, by personal experience along these lines, consider- 
ing well the conditions which govern all things. 

There is much yet to be learned, hence we must trust 
not to hands and feet for this knowledge, but to the use 
of our head and the exercise of common sense and superior 
judgment necessary to do all things well. 

True we cannot, need not, all be as well versed in the 
art of Woodcraft as were those famous Frontiersmen and 
Pioneers of Civilization such as we have mentioned, and yet 
there is no earthly reason why we cannot be if we choose. 
For have we not advanced and made possible the equal of 
their achievements in a much easier way? Science and 
experience has placed in our hands the more perfect weapon 
and means — the match instead of the flint and steel, the 
deadly cartridge in place of the powder and shot flask, and 
the Binocular Field Glass soars the distance of a day in 
advance, while civilization has made its stations and. ob- 
jective points everywhere about us. Where for these men 
there was little or nothing, today the unknown regions are 
almost a thing of the past, and go where we will we find 
civilization, and Man has gone before us, pointed out the 
direction, made easy the way. 

Today the Wilderness and Jungle have been shorn of 
much of their mysteries, and we fear not to penetrate 
through its depths to beyond. Go where we may — north, 
south, east or west, we find civilization before and behind 
us both. So much for progress. Hence it is obvious that 
almost any man can master the art of modern "Woodcraft," 
does he but learn the knack of adapting himself to the 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 41 

conditions necessary to sustain life in his travels to and 
through his route, until he reaches civilization beyond; 
and to be ordinarily well versed, and but a fair trapper 
or hunter even, he could exist safely and comfortably even 
for years, did he but make up his mind and not lack in com- 
mon sense, nerve, will-power and instruction necessary to 
accomplish the end in view. 

Such knowledge as this when committed to memory is 
better than a "pack train of supplies," which in nine cases 
out of ten only hampers and impedes one's progress. In- 
deed, the fewer articles or things one can get along with 
the better, and the more our knowledge grows concerning 
such things the smaller does our "pack sack" or outfit be- 
come. Indeed, -we are much better ofif when we practice 
the art of traveling light and right. I care not where a man 
is going, or for what purpose, the less he takes of the 101 
"What Nots" on^ a trip, and the more he sticks to the 
"Simple Outfit Plan" the better and greater will be his suc- 
cess, provided, of course, he chooses the essentials, or has 
knowledge to improve or use them. 

The trouble is, in our ignorance we "tote along" too 
many things that can be easily dispensed with to our detri- 
ment. Hence, if we wish to live wisely and well, let us 
leave frills and fixings .-behind, and draw from our store- 
house of knowledge instead. In short, if we wish to accom- 
plish something, make headway, so to speak. 

Don't put your money and time in seeking catalogued 
and elaborate kits, but in instruction as to how to get along 
with less of the non-essential things. I care not where 
the route of the trapper or hunter lies, there should be 
nothing carried along but what can be easily packed on 
his own back, as far as he alone is concerned; to litter 
himself up with more, unless he was on an exploring trip, 
would be a fallacy which could be likened only to a desire 
to "rough it." No woodsman or trapper on earth indulges 
in such foolishness; to him a pound of weight means a mile 
of progress. 

It is knowledge that points a way to the hidden spring, 
creek or the moist ground 'by which he quenches his thirst, 
fills his water bottle or canteen; he chooses foods of a 
nutritious, simple variety, that will answer his simple needs; 



42 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



eats when he needs it, we, when the hour comes. How 
much better off would we 'be if we emulated his plan? In- 
stead, we load our packs and stomachs with indigestibles 
that test our strength to carry, and valuable time to prepare. 
He holds down to necessities, and his knowledge of woods 
life and skill furnishes him with luxuries galore, that we in- 
sist on toting along to our detriment. This is wrong; it 
is the easy way that makes us happy and content, puts red 
blood in our veins, makes the chase and trip so interesting, 
success gratifying and easy. 




COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 43 



THE RIGHT OUTFIT 

And now let me here explain what I consider the ideal 
Light and Right Outfit for the Trapper or Hunter in the 
woods. 

First of all, this depends on conditions, season, location; 
for it is apparent to the intelligent that one must outfit 
according to the requirements and the needs of the regions 
he is to traverse. It makes a deal of difference if his route 
lies across a desert or plain, through the forest, mountains 
or waterways. Supposing, for instance, it is for all three. 
Then, indeed, can it be termed an "all-around outfit," de- 
pendent then on the knowledge of the resources of the 
country through which he must pass. Then does it call 
for head work, and usually the more of this kind of thought 
one bestows on such an outlt the less will his back and mind 
suffer "toting" it about with him. 

In its selection he must use good judgment. Cut out all 
ideas, fads and trifles that savor of the "Might Come in 
Handys," which in "number and variety" somehow creep 
into the best of one's kit, despite the fact that we all preach 
against it, much as does the drunkard preach against rum. 
There is too much of this "cut and dried" sort of way o'f 
going about things, and it is only when we get down to 
"actual dead rock" that one realizes that things aren't put 
just according to calculations; and about the time we get 
down to that stage of the game where we have to hustle 
for a while, depending on our skill and effort for an exist- 
ence in the woods, do we fully realize our shortcomings, 
and wake up to the fact that we are pitifully ignorant of 
Animal and Forest Life or ways. It isn't the ability to 
shoot straight — not by a long shot, nor to tote a heavy load 
or travel distances, but to learn something of the science 
and art of knowing where to find the "furs," and in finding 
it where we know it to be; incidentally, using some of the 
time usually spent in overhauling catalogues, or an effort 
to post up more on the habits and movements of the ani- 
mals we seek, and in familiarizing yourself into that loca- 
tion. Even to the extent of spending a few moonlight 
nights looking for them, watching their ways and profiting 
thereby, and I doubt not that you will see things that will 



44 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




Waterproof Ration or Grub Box and Table Combined — with 
Contents as Shown. 




Portable Fireless Camp Cooker 



CO'MfPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



45 



give you more genuine pointers than all the yarns spun 
around cabin tires put together*. Don't go at things half- 
hearted. It is no use trying to cut down a tree by lopping 
off branches first, not always getting down close to the 
roots at the first crack, and instead of believing the fact 
that animals are decreasing, hunting and trapping getting 
harder and less paying, think up a bit on the pleasure and 
freedom of it all, and the fact that it is up to you to get 
busy and make good. Success isn't coming along; you go 
after it and meet it half way; shipments and records prove 
there was never a time in history when such catches were 
made as there is today; conditions never were better for 
a trapper or hunter's success. Think over these things a 
bit, boys, then, get out, "hustle and make good," for it really, 
after all, is up to you. 




46 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 4? 



"OUTFIT AND OUTFITTING" 

Waiving luxurious comforts, it is always desirable to 
travel as light!}- as possible and as little encumbered, espe- 
cially if the tramp be long" and continuous and not broken 
by occasional te^iporary camps. Nevertheless, experience 
teaches that the trouble of carrying an extra pair of walk- 
ing-boots, or at least a pair of moccasins or easj^ shoes, is 
well repaid. If your feet are blistered, coat the inside of 
your socks (woolen are best), from the ankles downward, 
with common yellow bar soap, repeating the application for 
two*or three daj^s. by which time the feet will become hard- 
ened. It acts equalh" well as a preventive. Never suffer 
the shoes to dry after wetting, 'before they are thoroughly 
oiled, soles as well as uppers, with castor oil. The least 
inconvenient dress is a woolen overshirt with pockets, worn 
as a blouse and fastened around the waist with a sash or 
belt. TJie toe of a stocking fitted into the shirt makes a 
good pocket, if you have none alread}-. A heavj- Hudson's 
Bay or Canadian overcoat, with hood; serves as coat, blanket, 
pillow and cap combined. Always carry plenty of twine 
and large needles. If a piece of your clothing is torn oulf, 
patch it with anj-thing available. The legs of a boot make 
the best possible seat for a pair of trousers, and can be 
as easily fitted as woolen stuff. If 3-our felt hat is too loose, 
put a stick under the band and give it a half turn. If you 
want a candle-stick make a loop of birch bark and slip the 
ends into a split stick; then insert your tallow dip. If you 
wish a torch, take sheets of birch bark and slip them in 
the slit. A pine knot is better than either where no danger 
is apprehended from fire. If 3-our matches are wet, and it 
rains heavih- you can find bits of dr}'^ punk in the excre- 
scences under the bark of birch and maple trees; flash 
powder into lint or tow and then ignite the punk. Either 
fire powder from your gun or use a flint and steel. If lost 
in a hardwood forest and can find no water, one can generally 
get sap enough for a drink by cutting a chip out of a maple 
or birch, and making a spout to let it flow clean of the trunk. 
Water can be obtained by digging a hole into marsh}^ spot 
and filling it with grass. Then take a piece of elder, pipe- 



48 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



THE TRAPPERS THREE FRIENDS 





Waterproof Match Box. 



Compass. 




Skinning and Cutting Knife, Steel and Case. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 49 

stem, or any hollow tube and setting it perpendicularly upon 
the grass, pack the earth around it. Then apply suction 
with the lips and you will get water enough to assuage 
thirst. (By the way, in a desert birds fly toward water in 
the afternoon, and away from it in the morning.) Carry 
your matches in a vulcanized rubber box to prevent wetting; 
or a bottle will answer. There are a thousand little devices 
and resorts which one learns by experience, and which oc- 
cur to him naturally when required, but are difficult to 
inventory for others' use. For provisions, one must be gov- 
erned by circumstances. Tea, flour, ham, salt pork, soda 
powders, salt and pepper in quantities required, are all that 
are necessary. Never carry ground coffee, it is bulky and 
will impregnate the other stuff with its aroma, especially 
when wet. Buzzacott's condensed coffee takes no room, and 
is a luxury indeed. But, if the sportsman insists upon 
'Carrying ground coffee, he will find the grounds very use- 
ful to keep fish fresh, taking out their entrails and gills, 
and sprinkling the coffee grounds thickly into the belly and 
mouth of the fish; the more grounds used to each fish the 
better. 

Desiccated food of all kinds is compact, and goes a great 
way. Pickles and onions are a desirable addendum and an 
excellent relish. We are writing for those who propose 
"roughing it" in earnest. Of course, for ordinary camping 
out one may add as many luxuries as he likes, and the 
greatest of these is a camp kit of tin ware, containing knives, 
forks, spoons, cups, plates, broiler, frying-pan, teapot, pep- 
per and salt box, syrup and tea caddies, sufficient for five 
or six persons, all fitting nicely together in a large water- 
pail, the whole costing about twelve dollars and weighing 
nine pounds. The old army knife-fork-and-spoon combined 
is very convenient to carry. Always take blankets and 
warm clothing when it is possible, and a change of under 
and outer clothing. One's cast-off suits are the best, as they 
can be thrown away in the end of the journey, leaving the 
party less weight to carry home with them. An "aqua 
scuten," a small waterproof cape that can be folded into a 
small compass in the pocket, is sometimes a great com- 
fort. Of miscellaneous articles for a party who intend to 
remain much in camp, we enumerate the following: 



50 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

WATER CANTEENS AND COOKING OUTFITS 







Canteen with Combination Cooking and Messing K'it. Plate, 
Cooker, Knife, Fork, Spoon, Cup and Canteen Combined. 



COiMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 51 

Rods, reels, lines, flies, bait hooks, trolling tackle, gaffs, 
landing net, bait box, float. 

Woolen and rubber overcoats, old shoes, rubber leggings, 
extra boots, slippers, or moccasins. 

Hatchet, knife, pistol and cartridges, screw-driver, awl, 
pliers, gimlet, whetstone, twine, wire, rope, leather straps, 
tacks, needles, pins, thread, wax, scissors, paper, pencil, 
rubber. 

Compass, matches, fuse, candles, spring balance, cork- 
screw, pocket pistol, field-glass. 

Soap, towels, comb, sponge, looking-glass, goggles, linen 
and flannel rags and raw cotton, to be used for cuts, 
wounds, cleaning guns, mending, etc. - 

Pipes, tobacco, maps, diarrhoea mixture, cathartic pills, 
salve, court-plaster, ammonia, sweet oil, and a mixture of 
tar and oil as a preventive against flies and other insects. 

One India-rubber bag to hold the "kit" is a desirable 
addition to an outfit, as it makes a portable package and 
keeps its contents always dry. 

One thing which every hunter should appreciate is com- 
fort in camp, and to be comfortable and happy should be 
his main business. "Roughing it'' is not healthy on account 
of poor food badly cooked, sleep taken on the bare ground, 
unnecessary exposure and dirt. Every one should be care- 
ful to provide an abundance of good food with proper 
means for cooking and caring for it conveniently;, he 
should camp in the best attainable place, considering al- 
ways sanitary laws, just as potent by the way in camp as 
anywhere else; and camp, too, in time to make himself 
comfortable for the night, when it is daylight, and every- 
thing is handy around. Camp "tricks" should be kept in 
their places, not thrown helter-skelter, or left lying where 
last used, the common opinion that order is opposed to 
easy comfort and freedom from care, to the contrary not- 
withstanding. 

In sleeping, but little, if any, more bed clothing should 
be used in camp than in a house; too much cover has 
given many a city fellow a cold, and disgusted him with 
sleeping out of doors. He thinks that as he has no roof 
over his head he ought have a thousand blankets. In the 
middle of the night he gets into a perspiration, kicks off 



The All Round Camp Sleeping Combi« 
nation Outfit. 



The Spcrtsmaas Mattress, Pillow, Bed, Blankets, Hammock, 
Carry-All, Roll-Up all in one. 




As a Bed. 



Open Bhowing Blanket Folds, Pillow^ 
Flap and Mattress. 




As a Hanamock. Simple, Convenient and Safe. 





As the Carry All, Weight in All 15 lbs. aU Rolled tJp, 

52 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 53 

the cover, cools suddenly, and the next morning swears in 
a hoarse whisper that sleeping out of doors is a humbug. 
No more cover should be used than will keep the body at 
a natural heat; anything more is bad, even if not enough to 
cause perceptible perspiration. 

In making up your party for a camp, it is of the first 
importance to include only congenial minds and disposi- 
tions. No matter how dear to you your friend is, or how 
warm his affection may be for you, if your habits of 
thought and body are not under control the little things 
of camp life will be the fruitful causes of unhappiness and 
discontent. The number of the party has, of course, to 
be considered, and the style of camp life, whether you do 
your own work or employ help. One man who shirks, and 
"the best fellow in the world" is often the man, will inter- 
fere sadly with your pleasure. Men incline in camp to 
couples. Three can seldom agree long, for one is almost 
of necessity "left out in the cold." 

No party should attempt to camp out unless one at least 
of their number is thoroughly conversant with woodcraft, 
and able to devise and direct so as to secure the general 
comfort under all changes of circumstances and vicissitudes 
of weather. One great essential to thorough enjoyment 
is an equitable division of labor, and a faithful observance 
of the duties assigned to each member. This is especially 
important where no servants are employed. Four persons 
constitute a large enough party. One should be a ■ fair 
cook; another should be able to keep the camp supplied 
with wood and make a fire, which is a task by no means 
easy; a third should be a fair shot and a good pot-fisher- 
man, for a variety of food adds much to the charm of camp 
life; and the fourth should he apt at building a shelter 
and pitching a tent, and a good boatman withal. Thus 
organized, a party is ready to start for the woods. 

We cannot too earnestly urge the advantage of taking 
the various kinds of condensed food which ingenuity has 
devised, for they not only greatly reduce a load, but add 
much to the ease and comfort of all, and materially lighten 
the labors of the cook. "Buzzacott's" 'condensed milk, 
coffee and sugar are a great acquisition. A single can of 
coffee will serve a man for thirty days, and really needs 



R.eliable Camp or 
Sportsmans Specialties 

Closed. Opened. f" 




Hunters' Axe Belt 
and Sheath. 





Sportsmen's Telescope and Case. 
Very powerful. 



Water Cooling- Canteen. 




Fish Knife. 



Camp Filter. 
Iqt. a minute. 



Hunting Knife. 



Pack Harness 



Folding Pocket Hunting Kni*e 



54 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 35 

neither milk n-or sugar. Put a part of a teaspoonful in 
hot water, stir it, and your beverage is ready for use. The 
beef will make a variety of soups, if used according to 
directions, and the milk is useful in compounding various 
dishes. The self-leavening fiour is another indispensable. 
It has only to be mixed with cold water or milk, requires 
no salt, and with slight change in preparation will produce 
bread, biscuit, cakes, etc., in a very few minutes. The 
bones and small pieces of meat left after cutting up veni- 
son, when boiled to a jelly in the camp kettle, strained, 
and put away cold, form the ingredients of a very nourish- 
ing soup which can be prepared in a few minutes at any 
time by adding a sufficient quantity of hot water. With a 
little potato and onion chopped fine, red pepper, salt, and 
flour, or dried tomatoes, it can be made really delicious. 

To carry the camp stuff most easily, back-loads should 
be so made up that the softest parts should rest upon the 
shoulders and neck, and when adjusted and supported by 
a strap that passes across the forehead, boxes and cum- 
brous articles may be packed on top; by this method fifty 
pounds may be carried with comparative ease. Fishing 
rods, paddles, axes, etc., should be tied together in bundles 
in two places at least, and when shouldered, boots, kettles, 
and the like, may be slung over their upper ends. Where 
a canoe or boat is to be carried, lash the paddles lengthwise 
one foot apart across the bars or thwarts amidships, turn 
the canoe upside-down, rest one end upon a convenient 
projecting branch of a tree at such a height that you can 
easily pass under, and then thrusting in your head so that 
the paddles will rest upon the shoulders, raise and balance 
it, and proceed on the journey. If the canoe is too heavy 
for one person, it should be shouldered by two men, one 
at each end, and carried right side up. There is a knack 
in walking, too, which should be acquired, namely: always 
run your eye along the trail at least a rod in advance, so 
that you may not only see soft places, rocks, roots, and 
other obstructions, but calculate to a nicety just where 
your steps are to be made. This practice will prevent 
stumbling; it also enables one to discern a blind trail easily, 
and teaches him to observe any strange signs which might 
otherwise pass unnoticed. If you are thirsty 'by the way- 



56 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



TRAPPERS OR HUNTERS TOOL OUTFIT 




With These Essential Tools a Log Hut, a Cabin for Winter 

Uses is Assured. 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 57 

side, and have no cup handy, bend up a portion of the 
brim of your felt hat so as to form a cup, and drink out 
of that. It is better than lying flat on the stomach to drink 
from a pool or spring, whereby there is real danger of 
swallowing living creatures that may possibly cause serious 
difficulty afterwards. A cup may be instantly fashioned 
by cutting a slit longitudinally in a piece of clean bark; 
and lapping the divided parts, one over the other, hold them 
between the thumb and fingers. 

Camp sites should be selected for access to wood and 
water — wood first; but there are many other considerations 
to take into account, such as shelter, immunity from in- 
sects, or proximity to game. A high open knoll away from 
water is preferable, in fly time, to a location on a river 
bottom. Sandy 'beaches or gravelly points are liable to 
swarm with midges or punkies, and the thicket woods with 
mosquitoes. Points where a breeze draws up or down a 
stream are the most desirable. Black flies do not molest 
between sunset and sunrise. The camp site being chosen, 
the first duties are to fix the shelter, cut wood, and get 
the kettle boiling. A letter A tent is the greatest luxury 
in camping, but in fair weather a tilt or half tent of can- 
vas or blankets, or a "rough slant" of bark or boughs laid 
on poles supported by crotches, are comfortable enough 
when a good fire is kept up. Or, for the matter of a night, 
a screen of spruce boughs to windward, or the canoe turned 
over to protect the chest and shoulders, is a good make- 
shift. The lee of a protecting ledge, with a bush screen, 
is a dry and comfortable camp. A permanent shanty is 
made with sides four logs high and a peaked roof of poles 
covered with bark or split shingles four feet long, with a 
hole at the top for smoke. In this way also a conical wig- 
wam can be constructed, Indian fashion. Make the bed 
of evergreen boughs — balsam and hemlock are the softest 
— 'place them in layers with the butts all one way, and shingle 
the butts of the first row with the tops of the second, and 
so on successively. Fires are made in various ways. For 
a good cooking fire, a back should be made three logs high, 
supported against upright stakes driven into the ground; 
two logs at right angles, or two stones placed in front' 
to lay fuel on, will raise the latter from the ground sufii- 



58 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



THINGS THAT CAN BE MADE IN CAMP 



\ 




Hammock Fly Net. 




Grub Box from a Kerosene Can, 
Fly Proof. 



^^ 




Ant-proof Ration Box of Green Bark. 




Live Fish Box. 




Camp Table With 
Understorage Chamber. 



COlMPLETE trappers guide 59 

ciently for a good draft. Another mode is to lay two eight- 
inch logs or skids, say two feet apart and parallel, filling 
in the space with small fuel. The Indian fashion is to lay 
the sticks in a circle, -with the butts in the center, resting 
on one another, making a conical pile. A tree should be 
felled, the trunk cut into logs, and the branches being 
chopped up for fuel. In almost all woods are logs, some 
time cut and seasoned, that furnish dry fuel and kindlings. 
To peel bark, girdle the tree at intervals of two or more 
feet and split the sections with an axe longitudinally. In 
fly time, when the air is still, make the camp fire so that 
'the smoke will 'blow into the tent or shanty, in order to 
drive out the flies; but at all times, and especially at night, 
guard against changes of wind and flying sparks. 

To Make Fire from Dry Wood Without Matches. — Get 
a round spindle of dry hard wood, oak for example, about 
a foot long and a quarter of an inch in diameter; polish it 
smooth, and round ofT one end. Then get a dry piece of 
some soft pithy wood, elder will do; if over half an inch 
in diameter split it; if less, shave the wood on one side 
down to the pith, making a flat surface; make a small bow 
of any springy wood or root, string it; buckskin is the best 
string; get your kindling wood all ready for your fire, to- 
gether with some small dry splinters, grass or leaves, or 
punk is best of all; hold the soft wood, flat side up, firmly 
between your knees; take a turn with your bow string 
about the middle of the hard wood spindle; set the round- 
est end of the spindle in a little trench you will make in 
the soft wood or pith; press down with any flat piece of 
wood held in the left hand, on the other end of the 
spindle; work the bow back and forth, and the spindle will 
revolve rapidly. In a little while the dust worn from the 
soft wood will fill the little trench, smoke, and take fire. 
If punk is used, this spark will ignite it by bringing them 
in contact; if grass, as soon as the spark is well developed 
envelope it in dry grass and wave rapidly back and forth 
until the fire is well set or breaks into flame. An Indian 
expert in this method will get fire in about ..a minute, more 
or less, as his material happens to be in condition, and will 
make it nearly as soon using both hands, in place of the 
bow to revolve the spindle. 



Types of Portable Hunters' or Sportsmen's Camp Stoves. 




2- Single Burner Oil Stove. 





4— Folding Camp Stove 
Open. 





2— Portable 2 Burner 
Wickless Oil Stove. 



3— Sinele Burner with 
3-HoleTop. 




.»y ft''-' 



Camp Stove (Not Folding) 



Closed- 




6— Another Folding Stove. 





7/.-MalleabIe Carapers Range, 
and Tent Heater 




8— Camp Outfits and Mess Kit (Unpackfld.) 



<9-0utfit Packed.^ 
60 



CO'M'PLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 61 

To clean greasy plates with moss and scour them with 
sand. To clean knives and forks, simply thrust them two or 
three times into the ground. At night, tuck your trousers into 
your woolen socks, and tie them at the ankles. Never sleep 
with boots on. Use moccasins if you have them. Keep 
your feet to the fire, but don't let them burn. See that 
there is a sufficient supply of fuel for the night, and learn 
to wake at proper intervals to replenish the fire. Early 
mornings are always cold at any season of the year. A 
compound of tar and sweet oil applied to the face and 
hands is the best protection against knats and flies. Buck- 
skin gloves may be worn without discomfort at night. 
Wheni an A tent is used, a cord drawn through the apex 
with its ends stretched to convenient trees, supports it 
better than two crotches and a ridge-pole, and will prevent 
its being blown down by a gust of wind. The sides should 
bt drawn down tight and fastened to the ground. Never 
sit up after .nine o'clock at night, and rise at daylight in 
the morning. Never omit a good wash, at least of the face 
and hands. 

Every hunter should know the edible roots, berries, and 
salad plants of the country he hunts in. The number, espe- 
cially of edible and wholesome "weeds" which can be 
boiled as greens, is astonishing. He should also know the 
herbs from which to make teas for sickness, and poultices 
and dressings for wounds and bruises. None of the ills 
which' a hunter as such is heir to are beyond the reach of 
nature's remedies. If he don't know the medicines of the 
field and forest he should take to camp a few of the sim- 
plest of the apothecary's sort. 

One great point gained in learning woodcraft is to ac- 
quire a habit of close and continued observation. All dense 
woods look so much alike that the novice without a guide 
is almost hopeless. In traveling it is important to turn 
frequently and survey the ground behind, especially if one 
intends to retrace his steps. A locality looks entirely dif- 
ferent from different points of observation. Hence it is 
always prudent to blaze the route by occasionally scoring a 
tree or breaking the top of a bush or limb. Where small 
spruces are frequent, the broken tops of these are most 
easily seen. In passing through alder brush, cut them well 



Sportsmen's & Hunters' Handmade Knives & Pocket Axes. 




Folding Safety Pocket Knife Closed. 



Pocket Tool Knife. 




Folding Safety Pocket Knife Open. 




No Better Articles Can be JbMade— At Any Price. 



62 



COlMPLETE trappers guide 63 

down toward the buts with a hatchet, remembering to bend 
them well over with the left hand, and giving a smart clip 
on the bend. A greenhorn will be surprised to see how 
easy it is to cut brush in this way, and how much hacking 
is required to cut even the smallest sapling in any .other 
way. Alder brush makes a good "blaze," as the under sides 
of the leaves are much lighter than the upper, and show 
distinctly. In following a blind trail, the eye should al- 
ways run casually in advance. If it is cast down directly 
in front, the sign is lost; but if raised, the trail can usually 
be traced quite distinctly. In all cases where a man dis- 
covers himself lost, he should stop short -and carefully con- 
sider the situation — the position of the sun, direction of 
the wind, character of adjacent prominent objects, etc., and 
then retrace his steps as nearly as possible. It is senseless 
to plunge headlong into trackless uncertainty, when it may 
be quite possible to go back on one's own track to the 
point started from, which, though a loss of time in reaching 
a desired destination, is better than a loss of way and an 
Involuntary bivouac in the woods. The writer remembers 
having once tracked back through a laurel brake with such 
nicety of calculation as to pick up a handkerchief which 
had been pulled out of his pocket, and was clinging to a 
bush. As a general thing, a man does not go far ofif his 
course before he discovers his mistake. A quarter of a 
mile in a jungle or a strange forest seems a great distance. 
It is not impracticable either, when one is in doubt to climb 
a tall tree and take a survey from the top. Caribou hunt- 
ers often adopt this practice when looking for barrens 
where game are likely to be found. Rivers and streams are 
certain highways to deliverance provided a person has pre- 
viously some idea of the general lay of the land. 

One never should be without a compass; though in 
some persons animal magnetism is so strong that they 
determine the cardinal points instinctively. Indeed, there 
are individuals who cannot sleep with their heads to the 
south but instantly detect a bed so placed. Backwoods- 
men acquire by practice and careful observation a certain 
craft in reading signs which is alm^ost infallible. As a rule, 
but not always, moss grows more densely on the north 
side of trees, nature providing against the cold that comes 



St&^estions in Camp A.ccessories 




Hunting- Boot. 



Moose Hide 

Moccassin 

Shoe. 



The ArmyBoot. 





Mosquito Hat and 

Netting-. 
Folding Pocket size. 



The Puttee 
Leggings. 




Campers 

Leggings. 

Tan. 



Folding Toilet 
Case. 





Pocket Medicine Case and 
Medicines. 




Camper's Ditty Bag, 



The Canvas Bedding Roll«up. 



64 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 65 

from that quarter. But a more reliable sign is the limbs 
of trees, which grow longest on 'the south side, those on 
the north side being exposed to the wintry blasts which 
twist, scathe and stunt them. A laurel swamp is the worst 
conceivable place in which to get lost. The tendency to 
travel in circles is well known. It is a physiological freak 
not easily explained. In an article on this subject which 
we clipped from the Scientific American fifteen years ago, 
the writer, who is a Texan, says: 

"Bewikiered persons frequently travel in a perfect circle, 
sometimes keeping the same track, until they have made 
half a dozen equal rounds; at other times making the circle 
larger 'or smaller each time. It is not, by any means, al- 
ways the case, when a person is lost; but it is so frequent 
that it is within the experience of every one who has been 
much in the woods. In calm and cloudy weather in a coun- 
try of much sameness of appearance the best woodsmen 
get so bewildered as to "take the circles." Persons not ac- 
customed to the woods will sometimes do so, when the sun 
is shining and a steady breeze blowing. On the level or 
gulf prairies of this country on a calm, foggy morning, no 
man can travel without a road. It is an incident of every 
day occurrence in the spring and fall seasons, that men are 
thus becalmed on the prairie as effectually as men are at 
sea; nor will a compass mend the matter, for it cannot 
be carried steadil}^ enough to keep its meridian, and the 
course it points cannot be kept for fifty yards; if a nian 
attempts it he will make a circle and come back to the 
place he started from. The circle will be large or small 
generally in proportion to the density of the fog — some- 
times only a hundred yards in diameter; at other times a 
mile, but seldom more. The circles thus made are perfect. 
This kind of wandering seems to arise from an attempt to 
go a straight course when there is nothing to guide the 
senses, or when the usual guides of sun, wind, or the gen- 
eral contour of the country are disregarded. It rarely be- 
falls children, who do not attempt to get on a course, but 
only run. from one visible point to another equally per- 
ceptible. 

"Many apparently trivial traits in the disposition of ani- 
mals, which are of great use to woodsmen, are omitted in 



66 COMPLi:i<TE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

CAMP COOKERY AND UTENSILS 







()y'-;^s^^\x 





3, 4, 5 and 6 — The Buzzacott Patent Camp Outfit. 
The Kind that Never Fails. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 67 

books of natural history; chiefly from ignorance no doubt. 
One of these is the disposition of the horse, when fright- 
ened, to run against the wind, if any is blowing. Thou- 
sands of horses which would be otherwise irrecoverably 
lost annually on this frontier are recovered by observing 
this simple rule. in pursuit. All animals have similar inex- 
plicable traits in their disposition; and men are no excep- 
tion to the rule. White men, when they are scared, will 
retreat in the same direction in which they came. The In- 
dians know this, and lay their plans accordingly; and many 
a gallant company has been cut to pieces simply from ig- 
norance of this fact. But those who understand these mat- 
ters, when they find it necessary to make a hasty retreat, 
always' do so in a straight line, and in a direction different 
from the one in which they came. 

"We frequently see notices in northern papers of chil- 
dren being lost. Such things rarely occur on this fron- 
tier; though children often wander, and there are but 'few 
neighbors to help search for them. Perhaps the cause of 
humanity might be subserved by publishing a few rules to 
be observed in such searches. Any child will make a track 
or trail plain enough to be followed by the eye over any 
ground, unless there be much passing of men or animals 
to spoil the trail; and it can be followed by almost any 
person of good sight, although he may not, have had any 
previous experience. Go to the place where the child was 
last seen and look for the trail, glancing along the ground 
with a sharp scanning look; when it is found, a faint kind 
of a line will be seen, which may be followed at a fast 
walk until a well-defined track occurs. If the trailer stops 
to look for a track he will probably lose the trail, and must 
go b^ck and take it up again with the same scanning glance 
along the ground. The trails which hunters and Indians 
follow skillfully is not so much composed of tracks or foot- 
prints as of indescribable little signs, such as leaves and 
blades of grass bent or turned, twigs broken, and other 
things so small and faint that they cannot be shown to any 
one, yet which, when all put together, make a kind of line 
along the ground, which line can be seen by a rapid glanc- 
ing look, but which will disappear when looked at steadily. 
The trail of a human being is more easily followed than 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



that of any other creature, because there is a kind of pur- 
pose in it different from the trail of irrational animals. A 
child will change its course around every clump of bushes, 
and go nearly straight when the ground is open. If it is 
scared and running, it will run from the wind, if much is 
blowing, and from any voice it hears; in such cases, there- 
fore, it is not good poilc}^ to call much upon the lost child's 
name." 

Hints for Southern Travel 

In preparing for a winter's campaign in the south, one 
should take with him, if practicable, a tent and small boat. 
If they can be carried. A shotgun, rifle, ammunition, and 
fishing tackle should be taken from the north. The tent 
should be as light as possible and so constructed that all 
the room can be utilized. The boat should be small, flat- 
bottomed and light. Gun and rifle should be breech-load- 
ing, thus securing safety and despatch in loading. Revol- 
vers and big bowie knives are superfluous. Everybody 
takes them, and everybody finds them in the way. Wear 
old clothes; half the pleasure in camping out is to be able 
to rough it. Don't put on fancy costumes, expecting to 
"make a spread," as no one will appreciate the effort or 
efifect. Wear woolen clothing at all times. For the feet, 
take good stout shoes, lacing up tightly about the ankle. 
A pair of tight (not tight fitting) boots may be very good 
for a short, wet walk, but for an all day's tramp through 
swamp and pine woods shoes are far superior. Two pairs 
good woolen, and one rubber blanket. For sleeping in 
camp in this animated land of fleas, spiders and creeping 
things so unfortunately taken into the ark, a hammock 
should be used; one arranged (as it may easily be) with a 
light canvas roof, with sides of netting. Two or three 
rafter-shaped triangles hung on a line will spread such a 
shelter, and in a canvas hammock under it, one can rest 
free from the companionship of the guides and dogs, and 
without vivid ideas of snakes and centipedes. High boots 
will be some defense, 'but keep away from the vicinity of 
domestic animals, and sleep not in any of the "cracker" 
houses, but camp in remote pine woods and keep the dogs 
away from the tent. Such forest is comparatively free from 



I 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



69 



mosquitoes, and in mid-winter the sand flies are not very 
annoymg. A mosquito bar is indispensable, as many nights 
the tormentmg msects call their own. 



Shelter 

In camp we are supposed, a greater portion of the time, 

to enjoy all of the hygienic effects of out-door life- still 

It IS quite necessary that we provide ourselves with pro- 
tection sufficient to shield us from sudden atmospheric 
changes and inclement weather. 

The common army -tent is well adapted to this pur- 
pose, and may be sufficiently long to accommodate two four 
or six men. 

In selecting a location to pitch the tent, when possible, 
an open space should be found, where there are no trees 
or bushes within a few rods. In the dense woods, beneath 
large trees, the ground is much more damp, and the atmos- 
phere contains more moisture than it does in the parks or 
open spaces. A tent standing beneath a large pine tree will, 
in a few days, become saturated with moisture, and the 
bedding will show unpleasant symptoms of dampness and 
mould. Have the tent placed on dry ground, in an open 
space, and surrounded with a ditch four or five inches 
deep. The tent may be used to sleep in when the weather 
IS bad, but if fine take to the open— instead of the cover. 

Accustom yourself to sleeping in the open air, then when 
It gets 'bitter cold, shelter of a tent or cabin will find vou 
hardened and fit. I have known men to sleep out in 'the 
open nearly all winter; don't forget the fact. Men were 
campers before they were house-dwellers; but, hemmed in 
by brick, stone or wooden walls for generations past, their 
hand has forgotten its cunning in the matter of out-door 
home-making. Now, when they would dwell in tents, in 
brush houses or the open even for a time, they must unlearn 
that which their fathers have taught them and learn that 
which their forefathers knew. They must learn to deny 
themselves many of the luxuries of so-called civilized life, 
and to enjoy in their stead simpler conveniences and com- 



70 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



forts, such as may be easily transported, or may be gleaned 
from the wilderness wherein the camp is to be pitched. 

Even in the polar regions or extreme northern Spitzbergen 
I have slept without a tent, using only a hooded sleeping 
bag — reserving the tent for storms and- driving snow, or 
when storm-bound — that's the time tents are a necessity and 
a blessing, but when one has plenty of sleeping equipment 
I say take to the open and stay there all you can. 



CAMP TABLES— HOW TO MAKE THEM 





Boards, Boxes. Canvas and Wood. 





COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 71 



GOOD BEDDING 

Too much care can not be given to the subject of bed- 
ding. It is the most important part of a camp outfit; and 
yet there are hundreds of sportsmen who do not appreciate 
this fact. Besides, they like to affect the ways of the native, 
and show their companions that they can rough it in true 
aboriginal style. - This is all well enough in spirit, and, if 
you go into the woods or mountains on a long jaunt, you 
will have plenty of opportunities to show your mettle in 
more worthy and less injurious ways than by sleeping on 
the hard ground with insufficient bedding. 

As I have before had occasion to say, I would rather 
get into a good, warm, dry, soft bed at night, without my 
supper, than sit at a feast, and then sleep on the hard ground, 
without covering enough to keep me warm. After a hard 
day's work, tramping, rowing, or whatever it may be, a 
good bed is absolutely necessary to prepare one for the 
labor and fatigue of the following day. Any able-bodied 
man may endure a few nights of cold, comfortless sleep, 
but it will tell on him sooner or later; while, if he sleep 
soundly, and eat heartily, he may endure an incredible 
amount of labor, and hardship of other kinds. You may 
tramp all day with your feet wet, all your clothing wet, 
if need be, without injury to yourself, but be sure you crawl 
into a good, warm, soft, dry bed at night. Your old-timer, 
white or red, who takes one blanket, his rifle, a bag of 
crackers, and a little salt, goes into the woods or moun- 
tains and subsists for days, weeks, or months on nature's 
resources, is proverbially a short-lived man. He looks and 
feels older than he is; his age is racked with rheumatic 
pains, and he dies twenty years sooner than he would have 
done had he taken care of himself. 

Blankets are the staple article of camp-bedding, and you 
should never go into camp with less than two pairs of 
good heavy ones to each man, no matter where you go or 
at what time of year. If you go late in the fall, take three 
pairs; if in the winter, increase the number to four, or 
take a sleeping bag. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 
CAMP BEDS— HOW TO MAKE THEM 






,4.r . ::^:l!!!L.4/..^.^.HMiM 




Simple Devices Made m Camp. 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 73 

The Sleeping Bag Ideal 

But the boss camp-bed for all times and all climes, after 
all tramps and all climbs, especially if you are to sleep 
alone, is a sleeping bag. I have used one of these for 
many years, in all my outings, and have learned to prize 
it so highly that I would as soon think of going to the 
north woods without my rifle or rod as without my sleep- 
ing bag. 

If the country on the coast be visited the "bag" should 
be made of thin cotton or lawn, to keep out the "sand 
flies," insects so small as hardly to be discernible, but 
with a bite like the burn of a hot iron. It would be well 
to ta^e a little salve and thin plaster for cuts and bruises. 
In the line of medicine one can take a whole apothecary's 
shop, if so disposed, but, excepting a little whiskey and 
quinine, the former for snake bites, which hardly ever oc- 
cur, and the latter for imaginary fever, no medicine will be 
needed. For light at night, a lantern and candles v/ill be 
sufficient, though kerosene, where little transportation is 
to be made, is preferable. The keen bracing air gives more 
pungency to a haunch of venison or brace of quail than all 
the sauces piquante ever concocted. A bunch of Spanish 
inoss is infinitely superior to a napkin, and the clear waters 
of some spring to the finger-bowl. And here a word as to 
water. 

Nearly all water is impregnated more or less with lime 
or some mineral or salt that gives it a "flat" taste to the 
uninitiated, and a drink of raw, unadulterated water is not 
always acceptable. Some people ''qualif}^" it — indeed the 
majority of settlers "qualify" it so much that the original 
taste of the aqua is lost in that of the qualifier. That is 
all — a word to the wise. We advise a plain mode of liv- 
ing. Take hard bread, "self-raising flour," pork, salt, pota- 
toes, 'brown sugar, rice or hominy. "Buzzacott's" condensed 
milk and coffee, a little jelly, butter, pepper and mustard. 
Fish and game birds may 'be on the bill, of fare every day, 
but again they may not. No one should start down the 
river depenidng upon a supply, as the game is regulated 
and controlled by a multitude of laws that the visitor 
knows nothing about. Preserved fruits, meats, etc., are not 



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CO-MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 75 

necessary, though sometimes found acceptable— they don't 
stay in camp long. Regarding cooking utensils, if cooking 
is to be done in the usual way, over an open fire, there 
should be a "bake-kettle" or oven, a foot in diameter; frying- 
pan, same dimensions, with a long handle; tin plates, platecl 
knives and forks, pint tea-cups, iron or tin spoons, and 
butcher knife. A regular camp kit is preferable, however. 
If a stove is preferred, go to the tinsmith's and have him 
make a sheet-iron box two feet long, one broad, open at 
one end. The door a sheet of iron, to slide in a groove, 
perpendicularly, acting as draught regulator. The legs 
should be flat, fastened to the box by hinges, shutting under 
it when packed. The pipe small and in joints, to be'^packed 
in the stove. A piece of tin should be taken to fasten to 
the tent to run the pipe through. With such a stove, well 
supplied with "light wood" or pitch pine, a fire can be sus- 
tained that will vacate the tent in short measure. 



Rocky Mountain Travel 

Special preparation is required for travel in the Rocky 
Mountains. Before entering the mountains one should pre- 
pare himself and party for the country they are about to 
visit, for if their outfit is not carefully selected what might 
have been a summer's pleasure will very likely be one of 
toil and regret. Take nothing but what is absolutely needed, 
and what is taken let it be as light as possible, as every extra 
pound lacerates the back of the pack mule. Use medium 
sized animals for packing, as they will carry as heavy a 
pack as a larger animal in rough places, and are more to 
be relied upon where there are steep ascents to 'be made 
or fallen timber to be crossed. Two hundred pounds is 
enough for a single pack mule to carry at once, but some 
persons will overload their animals to save buying an extra 
mule, and will not see their folly until they have lost some 
of their best animals by rolling down hillsides against the 
rocks, or by having them "snagged" in fallen timber. 
When returning at the end of the season, if the animals' 
backs are sound and good from the effects of light loading, 
they will comrnand a good price, a«nd are easily disposed 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 






c 

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COMiPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 77 

of; but if, on the contrary, their backs are covered with 
sores, they will only bring one-half their original value, so 
men may easily see the economy of having- a sufficient num- 
ber of animals to carry their luggage. 

For riding animals use mules for the mountains and 
horses for the "plains." A good mule will follow a trail and 
take its rider into camp the darkest night that ever was. 
Should you get strayed away from camp and not be able 
to find your way back again, drop the bridle rein on the horn 
of your saddle and trust to the instinct of your mule, and 
if it is not very hungry, after wandering about a short time, 
It will take' a direct course for camp, although the rider 
may think camp is in an opposite direction from the one 
where the mule is taking him. The common Indian. pony or 
broncho is the best horse to use on the plains, as 'they are 
tough, quick and thoroughly acclimated to cold weather and 
the poor feed that is to be had in most places. Select an 
easy saddle with a good California tree, a light pair of 
spurs, and a broad hair Cincho bridle with a light curb bit, 
a good saddle blanket, a small pair of saddle bags, and your 
riding outfit is complete, unless 3^ou ride a mule, and in 
such a case a good strong broad crouper is necessary, so it 
will not cut the tail of your riding animal. When traveling 
do not hurry your horse, or do not allow him to become 
lazy; keep him at a steady gait, and if necessary, he will 
accomplish a long distance daily; but should you become 
impatient and lope him nearly all day, he will become poor, 
stubborn and lazy. Use the Spanish aparejo instead of the 
pack saddle, as it is easier packed and more comfortable 
for the animal wearing it. Select heavy lash ropes, or they 
will stretch, and the animals will have to be repacked a 
dozen times a day, particularly after a rain, when the ropes 
have been wet and are gradually drying by the heat of 
the sun. Have a long "lariat" for each animal, for in 
some places in a timbered country it will be necessary to 
picket them over night, for if they were turned loose they 
would stray through the woods in search of better feed, 
and it would .be a severe task to collect them together 
again. Put a cow bell on the neck of the gentlest mare, 
and the whole herd will become attached to the animal 
wearing the bell; and when traveling let the "Bell mare" 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




A Study in Animal Life and Ways. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 79 

take the lead, and the other animals will follovv- in single 
file where it would be impossible to drive them. The 
cooking utensils should be several camp kettles made of 
copper and lined with- tin (made to fit in each other so 
they may be more easily packed), a small Dutch oven, 
spade, axe, hatchet, coffee mill, knives, forks, spoons, tin 
plates and cups, a bread pan, frying pan, gridiron, whet- 
stone, and two small iron bars to lay over the fire to set 
kettles on when cooking. 

The bedding for each person should consist of four Cali- 
fornia blankets, a small pillow, a rubber poncho, buffalo 
robe, and half a wagon cover of canvas to cover the whole 
bed end protect it from the rains. If tents are used, the 
small dog tent is the best, and will be found very useful as 
a wrapper to roll the bedding in for packing. For hunting 
large game, select either Winchester, Savage or Remington 
rifle or equal. There should always be one good double- 
barreled shotgun in a party for the smaller game, and thus 
provided for, there is always an abundance of fresh meat 
to be had, which is a great addition and saving to the table. 
When a party is preparing to camp out it is a good plan 
to establish a depot camp for a few days near some town 
(where there is good water and wood), while fitting out, 
and become accustomed to camp life before striking out 
for the more wild portions of the country. The expe- 
rience thus gained proves a good guide for future opera- 
tions. When starting out for a distant point, do not travel 
too far the first few days, but make short marches until the 
animals' backs become hardened to the arrapahoe. Do not 
allow the arrapahoe or pack to become loose, but have them 
as tight as two men can draw them. A mule may grunt a 
little about being laced so tightly, but it is much better 
for them than to have a pack rocking from side to side, 
backward and forward, thus bruising the mule's back, and 
ending in sores and a worthless animal. In the saddle 
bags always carry a pound or two of good, solid, square 
crackers, "hard tack,"' if need be. soda crackers, if obtain- 
able at the last little village through which he passes, and 
in his coat pocket, securely wrapped, an ounce of salt and 
a half ounce of ground pepper. Properly packed, the crack- 
ers need take but little room, and the man is to be pitied, 



80 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

no matter how fashionable his stomach, who cannot, after 
a good day's ride, make a satisfactory, and certainly diges- 
tible, supper off the crackers crumbed in the good sweet- 
milk he is sure to find at any settler's ca'bin, especially 
when duly seasoned with the salt and pepper he carries 
with him. Persons of limited or no experience in the West 
may smile at the suggestion that salt and pepper be carried 
along; but the writer has found many families, rich in 
acres and herds, who were "just out of salt," and to whom 
pepper had been so long absent that it was a cool friend. 
And many a palatable supper and breakfast has he made off 
crackers and milk with pepper in it, duly salted, when, had 
want of foresight confined him to the "corn dodger," made 
all too "short" with lard, and the bacon swimming in its 
native grease, which served the more rugged stomach of 
his host, he would but weakly have bestridden his mustang 
for the next day's ride. 

Guard against the "mountain fever," which is a severe 
cold peculiar tc the Rocky Mountains, caused by exposure 
and over-exertion. Its symptoms are flushes, fever, cold in 
the head, headaches and general debility. It reduces a cast- 
iron mountain man to a weak and helpless infant in a few 
days. It in no respect resembles the fever and ague or 
the fever prevalent to the Southern States. 

To prevent snow-blindness, smear the nose and the parts 
of the face around the eyes with damp gunpowder. Those 
who travel to the mountains by railroad should get a can- 
teen at Omaha and fill it with milk, and suspend it on the 
outside of the car window >by means of a stick (laid cross- 
wise) and a string. It will keep sweet until you wish to 
replenish. By this means you avoid the alkali water which 
is injurious, especially to childern. Hang your lunch basket 
in the same way, and you can keep roast turkey, chicken, 
game, meat, etc., the entire distance. You want two or 
more coffee cups with handles, as you do not always feel, 
like eating breakfast at the stations, and ten cents worth of 
coffee procured at the counter will suffice in aiding the lunch 
basket. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 81 



INTELLIGENCE OF ANIMALS 

Another thing I desire to call attention to is the fact 
that the intelligence of Wild Animals is, in many instances, 
of much deeper extent than we actually realize. And from 
a Wild Animal standpoint their powers of discernment and 
discrimination are far greater than ordinarily we imagine 
or infer them to be, simply because we don't understand 
them or their ways as we should, or as they do ours. Take 
the dog or cat as an instance; I will put it to you this 
way. I claim that they can even feel or perceive knowl- 
edge of your absence, or presence within or about their 
viciiiity when you are not actually seen by them, and that 
they can' even, by familiarity with certain of your habits, 
anticipate the time of your departure or arrival home, in a 
way, especially if your habits are regular, for then do they 
anticipate not only your actions but your intent as well, 
and in your conversation with others in their presence they 
can tell whether or not they are talked about, whether your 
remarks are made in jest or earnest, and capable of judg- 
ing even if you're angry or good-natured; whether you 
mean what you say or not, and other things of a surprising 
nature; in fact, I want to give you a few startling inci- 
dences in support of these claims before going further. 

The reader will notice, as a rule, that in starting out 
on these subjects I prefer to give you a few facts as to 
domestic animals, dogs, cats, etc., simply because you are 
more familiar with these kind than with the Wild Animals, 
of which I shall later more fully speak. Were I to jump 
right in and mention incidents in connection with unfa- 
miliar Wild Animal life you would be prone to doubt the 
truth of my story, and before I am through with this sub- 
ject I believe I shall have convinced you that in a matter 
of intelligence and reasoning powers, in their own way, 
Wild Animal life simply have the domestic kind "skinned 
a mile." 

But to return to our subject; how many of you are 

there who possess an intelligent dog or cat, and who have 

noticed that ofttimes when you call them to you that they 

fail to respond, yet showed every evidence of hearing and 

'understanding you both; perhaps looking at you, even wag- 



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ging the tail in a listless-like manner, but yet not heeding 
your call in any way. The dog, for instance, sometimes 
when lying down and is called will deliberately look at you 
and yawn, and flop his tail on the floor or ground where he 
lays, but yet not move to obey your call, although he 
certainly heard and understood you both. The cat, at times, 
will look at a person the same way, and seemingly refuse 
to respond; nearly every owner of such pets have noticed 
such things perhaps time and time again, but who are there 
who can explain why these things sometimes often occur, 
while at other times they respond like a flash? Lots of 
people, when they observe these things, think that they are 
acting fool-like, and don't know, but you make a great 
mistake when you attribute to them ignorance of this kind. 
Perhaps you never thought of this before, that I am going 
to tell you now, and it may surprise you or seem almost 
incredible to learn that the animal, be it dog or cat, hon- 
estly was able to judge of the genuineness of your call, and 
its intent, as it applied to them; that is, to say they knew 
whether they were honestly wanted or not. Suppose, for 
instance, you call your cat or dog to pet it, or simply for 
it to go out when it really did not want to, and it was 
coiled up comfortably on the mat or rug for a nap, or you 
called it even to give it some food when it wasn't hungry; 
the chances are ten to one, while it heard the call, it would 
refuse to answer, although it would show every evidence 
that it understood or recognized what the call meant. You 
might be in the next room — still it would refuse to answer 
for the same reason exactly. 

The reason of this is largely because your want does not 
coincide with those of the animal's; if it did the chances 
are it would respond like a flash the moment the call was 
given, and if others prevented it from coming to you, even 
it would struggle in order to obey the call. Why is it thus? 
Simply because the animal has intelligence enough to dis- 
criminate between your actual calls and decipher the meaning 
ones from the other kind; or, in other words, it can tell 
by the sound and depth of your intent or true meaning 
whether it was a call which meant advantage or the pos- 
sibility of favor, or receiving something from you. 

You might, for instance, try and call it for ten minutes. 



84 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

and it failed to respond, and even if you pretend to want 
to give it something by handing it "nothing," as the saying 
is, it could judge by the sound the true extent of its mean- 
ing; in short, it seems to recognize your want, and that 
when it applies to yourself and don't benefit them they are 
apt to fail to respond. 

While, on the other hand, if your want is earnest or 
genuine, or bespeaks something for them, which they de- 
sire, like a flash they wo'-ld come to 3^ou in the nine cases 
out of ten mentioned. 

So much for their powers of discrimination as to the 
deliberate meaning and intent, as the lawyer says, and so 
much for the further discriminating intelligence of ani- 
mals, I say. 

Now, how many of you are there who will agree with 
me that an intelligent dog (there are other kinds, of course) 
recognizes whether his master or mistress is in good or 
bad humor, angry, cross, vexed, ill-natured or happy and 
good-natured like? If the former, sometimes they will 
avoid you, or approach you sympathetic like, as if to con- 
dole with you; if the latter, he will act as if he would 
like to share your company or good nature. And right 
here I want to be understood as one who claims that in- 
telligent dogs honestly recognize and anticipate your moods 
and feelings, and are ready to either avoid you or share 
them with j^ou, as the case may be, and that they can hon- 
estly discriminate between the good, bad and indifferent 
in these things. 

Neither will I rest here, for I want to say further, that 
your dog can even recognize the foot-fall or steps of its 
master from its missus, just as it can recognize the foot- 
fall step of an old friend or family acquaintance from a 
stranger by the sound alone, and that it's a dumb dog that 
cannot discriminate between these things long before he 
has seen the person even, so acute is their hearing and 
their powers of observation or recognition of sound. 

I will go even further than this, and say that your 
dog is a good judge of human nature, in a measure, perhaps, 
that you had never thought of before. It has often been 
said that children somehow are great judges of this, and 
that they show certain antipathy to certain people, whose 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 85 

inner disposition are ill-natured, or cruel like. And yet 
who show no external signs of such disposition, and it has 
often been remarked as instinctive that they shrink from 
such persons, while on the other hand people of pleasant, 
kind disposition they are only too prone to make friendly 
with, child-like, too, and that sometimes we note that this 
certain antipathy is very marked and ominous, yet often 
will be found like the child's judgment, correct in the end. 
Hence, I say, beware of the friend whom your children or 
your intelligent dog don't seem to take to, for, as you term 
it, some "unaccountable reason." In two cases out of 
three you can rely on the meaning being nearer and deeper 
than you have before accredited to them. 

It is indeed a true saying that mankind is often found 
in company that his dog disdains or refuses to become 
party to, and in many cases you will find their judgment 
equal, if not better, than your own. 

Let a man be lost in the woods, plain, mountain or wilds; 
if he has an intelligent, dog, pony, horse or mule and will 
only trust to the better intelligence of the critter, under 
the circumstances, he can be pretty sure it will lead him 
out to safety again. I've done it perhaps a dozen times, 
and could cite a hundred other instances were it neces- 
sary, but is it? The whole trouble is we are so put up 
or stuck-up as to our own boasted intelligence and ability 
that we do not stop to think or allow to animals what is 
really due to them, as far as their intelligence or judg- 
ment goes. We are wrong to judge their standard by 
ours, because there is an abyss or chasm or difference be- 
tween it. There is no comparison — no indeed; but in our 
own selfish bigotted way we are prone to belittle the real 
intelligence of animals, because it is different from ours, 
and so little understood by us. Some time we will learn 
and perceive more of their way, understandings and intelli- 
gences, and see things their way; then it will appear much 
different to us than now. 

Unfortunately, we have been too much occupied with 
our own knowledge to pay such attention to theirs as we 
ought, but the time is coming when we will understand 
them, perhaps equally as well as they understand us now. 
That's why I write this volume, as I may be able in a 



86 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



way, at least, to educate my readers up to what the true 
standard of animal intelligence means, for we have much 
to learn from them, and their ways, as they have learned 
from us. 

We have not yet awakened to many startling facts 
as to the powers, scope,' depth or value of such things, 
because we have been too much engrossed with our own 
observations and intent to take the time to fathom theirs, 
and I have yet some surprises in store for you, as I go 
along. 

While writing of these things, I will also call atten- 
tion to the fact that animals generally are the reverse 
of mankind, look backward instead of forward, or to the past 
instead of the future life. Their like is made up of memory 
of the past, instead . of coming events; with them it is a 
case of way-back, yesterday and today, rather than tomor- 
row or years hence, as with us. Their mind and memory 
is all associated with past events — the happenings of long 
ago is avoided today with them, while past things, places 
and events are remembered that in us would be long for- 
gotten. 




CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 87 



POWER OF SCENT OR SMELL 

^ Again, they seldom forget what we are always apt to. 
Take their sense of smell, sight and hearing; by these very 
powers do they perceive differences, recognize and memorize 
things that seem increditable to us, or are in a way lost, 
as far as we are^concerned, and leaving out the question 
of sight entirely, on which we depend, in their own ele- 
ments, they have us decidedly at a disadvantage as far as 
perceptive intelligence is concerned. 

Take, for instance, an intelligent animal of any kind; 
I venture the assertion that either might be coiled up, 
resting or sleeping, apparently oblivious to everything, . yet 
the fact is, despite appearances to the contrary, they are 
aware of everything going on in the vicinity where they 
belong. With eyes shut, or with one open, they can tell 
by the sound who goes and comes, be it friend or stranger; 
if it is an intelligent dog, your habits and customs are 
memorized far better than you can even think or surmise, 
and if your habits are in any way regular, you would, if 
the matter was brought fully to your attention, be amazed 
at their powers of conception and anticipation of them; 
even the butcher or grocery wagon driving up to the 
house is recognized, looked, waited and expected, just as 
do you anticipate such occurrences. The child going to the 
store, and the package which comes to the house, arouses 
their interest, on certain occasions, with marked intelli- 
gence, if you will only stop to think over it. Plenty of 
times your dog or cat will run to the door to meet a 
grocery or butcher boy in a friendly \ya)'' of anticipation 
and delight, but whoever heard or saw a cat or a dog run 
to meet a strange peddler, except to greet him with the other 
kind of a reception. 

An intelligent dog will smell a tramp before he opens 
the gate, and will rush at him with open mouth perhaps, but 
a strange child or little girl he will often welcome with a 
wag or whine of pleasure. Why all this? If it is not 
because of past memory and associated ideas of such things 
and occurrences. A strange child or baby might pull or 
cufT a vicious cur or bull-dog to its little heart's content, 
and in two cases out of three be suffered to go on with- 



88 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

out a growl even, or the dog would retire out of reach 
and room, but let a strange boy or man try the same game 
and he will be apt to lose a mouthful of flesh; memory, 
association of past ideas again, which is forever uppermost 
in animal intelligence. 

Let the .master of a good hunting dog dress up to the 
business event and his dog will be foun^ to watch him in- 
differently, but let him, on the other hand, bring down his 
hunting togs or kit and see the difference, for the hitherto 
mentioned indifferent brute, as we term it, becomes an 
animated bunch of anticipated nervous delight; so much 
for memories and ideas of the past again. 

On the other hand, take out a good dog for his daily 
walk, hunt or exercise, and watch closely his actions; at 
every turn of the road he will be found anticipating which 
way you will turn or travel, all the time really trying to 
fathom reason, anticipate or study out your ultimate destina- 
tion, if in the least doubtful; if not doubtful, he will take 
you there, for once he seems to know or identify where 
you are going he will often bark as though to tell you to 
your face, "I know," -"I know," "come on," "1 know." 

Again, who are there of you who have noticed how even 
dogs will try to deliberately coax their masters, or those 
who accompany them, to go certain ways, barking and leap- 
ing up trying to coax you to go another direction, or way to 
which you are going, as if to say, "please come this way, 
it's so much better." Indeed, if some hunters would only 
follow their dogs, instead of forcing the dog to follow them 
when in the game fields, there would be less long tramps 
and light bags as a result. No wonder they look up at us 
reproachful like, disappointed at our acts, or discouraged 
even; indeed, I have more than once observed the crest 
fallen, sulky mood, as much as to say in dog language, 
"it's no use trying, I just can't make you understand." 

Indeed, the owner of a good hunting dog, on such 
trips, can well afford to test and rely on his animal's superior 
judgment in lots of ways in preference to his own. Years 
of hunting and trapping experiences has proven these facts, 
time and time again, only to be too true. It is poor policy 
to "heel back" a good experienced dog; downright foolish- 
ness I call it; by far the best plan would be to trust to 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 89 

their judgment, tinder many circumstances, if not all. In- 
asmuch as we in the face of all evidence admit it, cannot 
deny that animals are generally capable of exercising what 
we would term "reasonable judgment." 

These long drawn out articles on the lack of intelligence 
of the wild animal species, which certain writers seem to 
harp on, in my opinion shows a decided lack of common 
sense on their part, and certainly indicates that their knowl- 
edge has been drawn from observations of either wild ani- 
mals in captivity, the domestic ones, or those so-called "wild 
ones" which, for generations past, has perhaps hugged the 
borders of civilization and become more or less adapted to 
the xhanged conditions of the environment which surround 
them, or their haunts, rather than those of the true wild 
animals 'which inhabit still further remote or distant dis- 
tricts, and who vary in difference as to animal life, much 
as a savage does to the semi-civilized race. 

Indeed, some of their theories prove unnaturalistic 
tendencies, rather than otherwise, and as the reader will 
follow me through this work he will find where in many 
instances do I, a plain hunter and trapper, upset many of 
their favorite ideas; whether correctly or not, I leave to the 
reader or observer, who must bear in mind that my remarks 
apply mostly to animals in their wildest state. Such as I 
have hunted and trapped, snared, shot and dead-failed for 
forty years past, as well as those observed by my father 
and fore-fathers before me, not one of us ever having trade 
or profession or calling in other lines. 

Of an observing nature, we have, as a rule, always tried 
to verif}^ things before making decisions, and to consult 
others with whom we have been intimate and who have had 
experience in such things. Again, I have largely drawn from 
observations with Indians and natives of the tribes I have 
lived amongst, be they Alaskan, Canadian, American or 
Esquimaux, and while it is true that many of these have 
peculiar ideas (erroneous ones), superstitions and beliefs, 
ranging from the sublime to the ridiculous, yet in no in- 
stance do I give their theories without verification, and 
while in a few cases I might interpret them incorrectly, yet 
in the majorit}'" you will find I am right, and you may rest 
assured that in no case do I aim to exaggerate or give 
opinions as facts. 



90 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

The whole trouble is too many seem to think that ani' 
mals generally, or the habits of a few as iioted, are the 
habits of all. Nothing is more inaccurate, even of those of 
the same specie differ largely in their ways, habits and 
peculiarities, according to conditions. One will do such a 
thing this way, and the next fellow differently; as I said 
before, conditions always governing. Let me give you a 
few instances of this. Take, for instance, the weasel family; 
they do not always kill anything of life peculiar to them, 
which they find about them — not by a long shot; there are 
times when they will and won't. I have seen them go into 
burroughs and rob them of tid-bits, but never touch the 
occupants, or chase them even when they ran out. I have 
seen them rout out birds from their nests, and only disturb 
eggs, and at other times pass up game that they could easily 
have captured and killed, had they so desired. They have 
their robbing expeditions, as well as their killing ones, 
and are not living and constantly practicing extermination, 
such as we are made loth to believe, especially so when 
in their own territory. True, there are times when they go 
outside the certain territorial limits, such as their own, when 
they indulge in this killing mania for a while, especially in 
seasons of scarcity or want (winter time). In a way, too, 
their lives and ways are dissimilar; they have their varied 
likes and dislikes in all things, as well as their peculiar 
methods of approach to any quarry that they seek. Take, 
for instance, any of the weasel family; if you watch them 
closely on their hunting trips we will see quite a difference 
in their methods. One using tactics decidedly different than 
the other; on the whole, however, we can observe that at 
first sight of an animal they seem to be particularly observ- 
ant as to whether or not the creature is one whom they 
have met before, and peculiar as it seems, also to learn if it 
is a male or a female, and if the former, they get busy after 
the meat without any preliminaries; but if in the latter 
case it is a female, they will often lay close and watch her 
for a long time, and follow her, seemingly in the hopes of 
discovering her covert, lair, nest or den, for reasons that 
are obvious, of course. 

In the same way, when hunting birds in the nesting time, 
they will watch old birds deliberately — females especially. 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 91 

in the hopes of locating the family nest, trailing after them, 
watching them carefully, seeming to give far more thought 
to remaining unobserved and following, rather than in clos- 
ing in or attempting to attack. 

The same rule applies to other animals of a carnivorous 
nature; they seem to first seek out or identify the sex and 
kind of the animal observed, in a way. When this is first 
settled, they follow or attack, seemingly according to set 
plans, and rarely in the haphazard catch-as-catch-can fashion 
that a great many people seem to think. 

In fact, I have observed the times and in season, when 
hunting in pairs, that neither will attack the female, both 
seeming to unite in driving her ofif or in confusing her, 
separating her from her young, or from her mate, as much 
as possible, and if, as stated, two of them are together in 
the attacking party, they act as if it were deliberately 
planned, premeditated and carried out accordingly. 

In their likes and dislikes of certain kind of food, they 
are dissimilar — one preferring flesh to fowl, or vice versa — 
some tackling anything, and others seem to be epicurean 
or dainty in their tastes; still more who show a preference 
to a putrid carcass, and another refusing such a feed, and 
right here I wish to say that, as a rule, the stench of such 
foods seems not to be objectionable to all animal life, as 
it is with us. This I attribute largely to the fact that while 
the smell is a putrid one, yet it is natural, and they actually 
seem to be more disgusted with any odor which comes 
to them which is strange or foreign, or unnatural like. We 
observe the same thing in savages and Indians — putrid or 
partially rotten meat does not offend delicacy of either taste 
or smell — it comes natural like, because they're used to it, 
and of the fresher and sweeter meats they get tired of and 
welcome the change. Now, on the other hand, anything 
strange, as, for instance, some of our savory dishes seems 
to have not only a disgusting smell, but taste as well, 
simply because it is something new, and tastes foreign to 
them and smells unnatural. 

This is largely responsible for the fact which we see of 
Indians choosing some of these vile feasts, such as the 
paunch of the reindeer, dog meat and insects, such as the 
locust, which appears so objectionable to us; and I venture 



92 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



to say that if we lived as do they, with little or no variety 
in their foods, that any change almost would be hailed with 
satisfaction. Take, for instance, in the polar regions, one 
of the chief delicacies there is the green undigested food 
found in the stomach of the reindeer. This, taken with 
certain portions of the flesh, is regarded as tid-bits, and with 
seal or bear's blubber or fat is prepared into a stew and 
eaten with %. relish or gusto akin to no other dish in the 
Esquimaux dietary. The reason is plain and simple. It is 
their only possibility of getting any green stufi', as a relief 
from the monotonous fish diet or that of flesh, which be- 
comes tiresome in time, naturally, and the polar regions 





Warner and Swasy Telescopes. High Power Binocular. 

being devoid of vegetation, especially in the winter time, it 
is easy to see that such vegetation, strong and obnoxious 
though it may seem to us, is hailed very much in the 'way 
that we like our mess of spring or winter greens. If I may 
cite such as a comparison. We observe the same thing 
in animal life. We see birds, for instance, who pick out 
the eyes and softer portions of a body or carcass which they 
find; still more who first seek to glut themselves upon the 
entrails, tongue, heart and liver; others who prefer the more 
solid or tender flesh, each nevertheless exercising a choice of 
parts peculiar to them. We see the same thing when their 
dietary consists largely of fish; some of them eating the 
heads and shoulders, others the entrails, and in a majority 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



93 



of cases all of them leaving the tail, as if that part was 
useless. Again some preferring the head, and leaving other 
portions of the body untouched. Again, v^e notice some 
who vary their diet largely, consuming berries, mice, frogs, 
fish, insects, eggs and green foods, and showing decided 
preference of one over the other, in season and out. And, 
again, those who want meat straight and more of it, re- 
fusing other varieties. All in all, then, it is wrong for us 
to judge one by the other, for there is a large difference 




Ideal Field Glass Day or Night. 

between them, and to judge one by the same standard as 
another, even of the same species, is a serious error. 

I am well aware that some writers attribute the habits 
of one as similar to anbther, just as they do deny to them 
ordinary sense, reasoning powers, fore or after thought, 
and on the next page of their writings cite an instance of 
extraordinary intelligence that completely upsets and at vari- 
ance with their former remarks or statements. One will 
argue that a certain specie will climb a tree — still another 



94 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



that it does not, forgetting absolutely that conditions, habit 
and environment plays an important part in all these things. 

One will say that the beaver, for instance, shows an 
intelligence akin to the human, in cutting down trees, build- 
ing dams, houses and overflows: the other quotes it simply 
as an act of an automatom and not intelligence, and still 
more who claim that despite all facts claimed for it the 
beavers have not even got sense enough to cut down trees 
so that they will always fall the right way. 

Could anything be more absurd? True, perhaps, the 
tree cut down did fall the wrong way, away from the stream, 
instead of across it, for instance, or perhaps fell against 
another tree instead of falling free and clear; even admitting 




One-half Actual Size 
Trieder Binocular Telescopes, 
all this, it is certainly' not proof of lack of beaver intelli- 
gence (while it may be of human kind). 

In this case that beaver intelligence was limited to cut- 
ting the tree down in the surest, quickest, easiest and safest 
way. Why should it reason as to the best way for it to 
fall, any more than it should that its lumber had a market 
value? We surely should not expect that it had human 
intelligence, and call it "foolish" because it had not, for, 
come to think of it, I have seen city educated folk, with 
a sharp axe even, use decidedh^ less or worse head work 
cutting down a sapling than did that very beaver in cutting 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 95 

down a tree. Hence, I say that the one who likens animal 
sense, or intelligence, to that of the human kind is but a 
FOOL. Right here I wish to say the beavers as a rule in 
their work are guided largely by circumstances; their cut- 
ting of trees is confined to the easiest, quickest way; time 
is no factor in their life as with us, and accomplishment of 
their objects is always what is aimed at. 

It is poor logic to assume that because animal man has 
involved dire faculties and attributes and progresses that 
our four-footed creatures are dumb and lack ordinary intelli- 
gence. No indeed, each has its limitations, and sphere, and 
for every unintelligent act that can be traced to animal life 
I w-ill show you equal ignorance in mankind, as to our 
knowledge of their ways. 

I know and realize, perhaps, that I am treading on "the 
corns" of some noted naturalist's pet subjects and theories, 
but I'll pit my old moccasin flat feet against their hard, 
shod ideas, any old time it becomes actually necessary. 

In the preceding chapters I have here and there through- 
out the thread of my discourse mentioned many of the 
peculiar traits of wild animal and savage life, of both the 
higher and lower scale, and in this one I intend to dwell 
further on these subjects and present some remarkably 
astonishing facts as to the "w^ys of wild life and its 
creatures" that have never before been in print that my 
readers may better judge of how ignorantly we Jiave judged 
these creatures of God's creation, who, as we know, were 
placed onto earth even before mankind, and who dwell with 
us now. 

In our reference to these wild creatures we are prone to 
speak of them as dumb, ignorant brutes, and to judge them 
from our standard of intelligence. And did we but know it 
would be interesting could we but learn or know what these 
wild creatures think of us, and our ways. And to further 
enlighten you on some of these subjects is the object of this 
chapter. 

To begin with I shall treat on the. hidden subjects con- 
cerning the mysterious sign languages of both animal and 
savage life. There are peculiar, astounding similarities exist- 
ing between human and wild an;mal life by which those in 
the wild regions find their way or provide for their wants. 



96 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 97 

When we come to the social animals or birds who are 
included in this class, we observe that even these are more 
or less quiet, according to their mode of existence, life or 
haunts; those of solitary habit, such as owls, hawks, eagles, 
etc., and even the species they prey upon, both resorting to 
silence; the one lest it alarm its prey, the other lest it be 
observed by its enemy. 

Neither must we infer that sounds by social animals or 
birds are or form a part of any language; no indeed, far from 
it, for while such sounds may be even identified as expres- 
sions of joy, pain, anger, fear, sign or signal, yet it is not 
language any more than is the sound of the distant wood- 
ma^j's axe, or the whistle of the locomotive, such as we 
hear in the forest woods. True, we identify the sound 
and know its meaning, but we cannot term it language, far 
from it. Indeed, in all animal life, sound is only used on rare 
occasions, and in seasonable time, and is to be avoided 
rather than practiced by them. 

Even the sounds noisy birds produce can be traced or 
likened to expressions of joy, peace, love, passion, fear, 
happiness, pleasure, anger or song — acquired by habit and 
imitation, and employed for certain purposes and times. 
For their song is hushed when it becomes necessary to 
communicate with each other individually, while many of 
the cries that we hear are but expressions of anger, attract- 
ing or warning calls, as the case may be. 

In their flights or migrations, too, cries are used largely 
even by animals, as well as birds, especially when they 
travel by herd, pack or otherwise; the reason why is plain 
— they are moving, the rustle of countless wings, the tramp 
of multitudinous, feet, makes sound or sign necessary, such 
as will sufifice their actual wants, but no more. And the 
bleating calf, noisy cub or lusty young is punished when it 
indulges in too much exercise of its lung or vocal power. 

By signs and signals, movements of head, body, tail, 
limbs, even eyes, hair, ears, etc., they communicate with 
each other, not by sound as has been said, but a universal 
language of sign — sign language much as is used or has been 
used from the days of primitive man and savage down to 
the native Indian of today. 

For I would have you understand that the art of the 



98 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

speaking language, or that of vocal sound, has largely been 
acquired by habit, knowledge and education, even in man- 
kind; thus has sound usurped the place of sign, which has 
become almost obsolete by reason thereby, even unto the 
savage, primitive or civilized races. Not so with animal life 
— theirs is still a language of sign, not sound; the latter 
being more or less acquired by habit, observation, selection, 
imitation in the various species, as we shall see. 

Peculiarly enough I would invite the reader's attention 
to another thing of importance in explanation of my observa- 
tion on these lines, i. e., that while nature blessed the human 
race with a facial and voice difference by which we recog- 
nize each other individually, it is not so in bird, animal, 
insect or fish life; with them each of the varied species 
look alike almost, and as they possess neither facial or voice 
difference, they must look elsewhere for other senses to 
take their place. 

This, I claim, is accomplished by their possessing and 
recognizing the difference of odor or scent, which each of the 
species possesses, and which differs slightly in each, as 
facial difference does in us. Thus, by sight, do they first 
recognize or seek to recognize each other. But confirmed 
by smell, as we confirm more by seeing than hearing. 

I can perhaps make this still plainer to the reader, for 
unfortunately while I have learned much of the ways of the 
woods and forest folk and nature, I have yet much to learn 
in letters. Still I feign would have you understand plainly, 
all things of which I write, be it this or other subjects, and 
in putting these things to you, will attempt to do so just 
as though we were talking together. 

Take, for instance, the recognition of our friends; ordi- 
narily it is by sight, yet how often has even sight proved 
misleading, for when we spoke to them we found it was 
someone else, and again, in the case of old friends whom we 
had not seen for many years, and who by this reason it was 
difficult to recognize, owing to changed appearance at first 
sight, did not the familiarity of voice aid us in recognition? 
In other words, we verified sight by sound or voice, and by 
these means, both, did we confirm the recognition. 

Now, on the other hand, take the animal, bird or insect, 
each of its own kind, when in the wild state or element. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 99 

looks alike almost; their facial or other differences vary but 
little and are similar or alike to a great extent. Here is 
where they differ from us. Now, as they have no voice or 
language, as we would term it, it is obvious to the intelli- 
gent that while they can in • their way recognize by sight 
alone, all those that they habitually come in contact with 
in their daily life, yet they must bring other senses or means 
to their aid, when recognition becomes difficult by pro- 
longed absence or change. 

For ample evidence of the truth is this, one has only 
to observe closely any of the animal, bird or insect life 
about us, and to listen or hearken not for inaudible or audible 
sounds, but to read and anticipate sign, to decipher, act, move- 
ment, expression, read thought and the secret is ours. A 
task perhaps beyond human nature now, for we have gone 
too far the other way, yet in my forty years of experience 
with nature and animal life, I have learned many things, 
which, for the first time, has ever been explained or put 
into printed form, as now. 

As for proof, it will not be wanting before I have done; 
not that I shall seek to confuse by citing voluminous in- 
stances or anecdotes, but by confining myself to a few 
truths only, and on every hand will I prove to yqu or give 
you evidence to verify my statements that animal life learn 
from us by sight and sign more than sound. Your own dog 
and cat prove it, for is not every act you see that of sign 
among themselves — they only look to us for sound, and 
when we try to talk to them and they interpret it the act is 
simply mute evidence of our ignorance of their ways, and 
highly creditable to their understanding or intelligence. 

Again we note the sounds as used by wild animal life, 
even these are but calls or signals — no more. Indeed, their 
very safety in the wild state depends largely on keeping 
quiet in all the name implies, and the more solitary the 
species as a rule the less noise and sound do we hear from 
them. 

Thus when memory of place, thing and time is forgotten, 
animal life recognizes and confirms recognition by its sense of 
smell or scent; so does the ant, the insect, the bird, the beast 
or the fish distinguish its friends from the strangers who are 



100 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

placed or come within their midst, because their power of 
scent is a sense that is even greater than sight in a way. 

On the contrary, in our case, sight is our principal sense 
— hearing and smelling powers being poorly developed in 
comparison to animal life, despite the voluminous theories to 
the contrary, and this is largely owing to our limited use of 
same. With an animal it is different — its very existence de- 
pends upon the acuteness of both hearing and smelling, and 
so perfect have these sense become that in comparison to 
them their sight may well be considered feeble. 

Scientists and naturalists, however, have given out theory 
after theory that animal and bird languages are those of 
sounds — supposedly inaudible in a way, and all sorts of ex- 
planations have been given as to the way they communicate 
to each other. Some have said that they have used a secret 
code of signals, which were as complexing and mysterious 
as they were varied, and that they even doubted that anyone 
would ever be able to interpret them. 

In our case, we use language, because voice and hearing 
is our next best sense to sight, but when it comes to animal, 
bird or insect life who have no language or voice, they of 
all must depend on their next best sense, which is scent. 
Hence, when sight fails to recognize and distinguish, it is 
invariably that the final test of scent is made, to dispel any 
doubts which may arise in their mind, as to final recogni- 
tion. 

Thus it is by these means, that the mother finally recog- 
nizes and distinguishes its young from others of its kind. 
First by sight, which it confirms or proves by smell, by the 
same token does it distinguish friends from strangers, ene- 
mies from friends, acquaintances from relations, or assist 
memory to remember, so to speak. This memory, sight 
and scent being to animal life, what sight, voice, sound or 
remembrance is to us. * * * Reader, have I yet suc- 
ceeded in making these facts plain? 

If not, we will shortly enter into a discussion as to how 
these wild creatures really communicate, fraternalize, signal 
and leave messages to, for, and from each other in a 
way that will surprise you. For example: Even the Indians 
or savage, the African of the tropics, the Esquimaux of the 
Polar regions, all of whom I have hunted and lived with in 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 101 

my time, recognize the value of silence and sign, for like 
us even they have profited by experience and observation, 
and have observed the ways of wild animal life, just as can 
you and I, if we but will. For I would have you understand 
that the art of the speaking language, or that of vocal sound, 
has largely been acquired by habit, knowledge and educa- 
tion, even in mankind; thus has sound usurped the place of 
sign, which has become almost obsolete by reason thereby. 
Even unto the savage primitive or civilized races, but not so 
with animal life — theirs is still a language of sign, not sound; 
the latter being more or less acquired by habit, observation, 
selection, imitation in the various species as we shall see. 

In my life, I have seen many strange and seemingly im- 
possible things of nature and animal life explained, which 
v/ere I to include them in this chapter, would perhaps fall 
short of proving my theories. By reason of the reader's 
unfamiliarity with the subjects, I would quote. Hence, I 
must seek another outlet for such information, as will be 
noted later, and confine myself now to instances of animal 
life of which we both more or less are acquainted. Hence, 
I will put it this way. If I were to cite this instance and 
attribute it to a wolf, wolverine, panther, wild cat. coyote, 
or fox, the reader would by reason of his unfamiliarity of 
such wild animals, doubt the truth of my statements, so I 
will use for my subject, instead, the Dog or the Cat, and 
explain to you one of the mysteries and secrets of their 
lives, which perhaps for the first time has ever put into print. 
Yet, it will serve as an admirable instance to explain to 
you, one of the mysterious ways by which you can prove 
much of the animal language, signs and signals, and I ask 
the reader at the same time, to follow me carefully in what 
is to come, and try to read between the lines of my argu- 
ment. 

Who is there, who has not noticed that dogs as they go 
about in their daily life, invariably travel nose to the ground, 
and seem continually to be searching for something always 
(with nose and eyes); how many are there who know the 
real object of his search; I say real object, because there 
are many theories — so very many, that they confuse rather 
than explain. So for the first time in your life perhaps, I 
will make things plain as to this trait even. 



102 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

ANTLERS AND SCENT GLANDS 




J^ I Antlers of the Stag, from the Serond to the Setcnth Year. ' %''^\ ' *^ t 




I 



The White Parts Show Location of Scent Glands, 



COiM'PLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 103 

Take for instance, a pet animal that cries to have a door 
opened to go out or in; the same cry is used either way — 
it does not ask to go out or in, neither does it in animal 
language say "open the door;" its cry is simply an act to 
attract attention, and the cry is varied only by the intensity 
of desire to indicate its want. Observe it closely, and by 
sign does it betray its eagerness and expectation, for its 
appealing look, movement, plainly evinces and enables one 
to anticipate its wants, if they will. That is the real lan- 
guage I fain would have you know. 

Again, take the animal who paws and scratches the door, 
or the dog who whines, scratches and barks when shut up 
alone; why does he continue this — simplj^ to invite or attract 
attention to his wants from the outside. The attention of 
man whose ways he tries to imitate; were it but a wild or 
savage animal, its noise would be less, or none at all, it 
would simply scratch patiently, persistently, gnaw its way 
out silently, from the weaker spot in its cage, and never 
give up, even after it learned the impossibility of its plan. 
If there was more than one of them, never a sound would 
be heard, but that they would deliberately consult, con- 
verse, reason and act, in concert with each other, as to how, 
when and the best way to get out by sign and movement — 
who can deny? 

And this is but a single instance, but by a thousand others 
could I cite and prove that by sign, movement, ex,pression 
and act, birds, animals, insects, all thus communicate their 
wants, be they giants of the forest, mites of the earth, air 
or water — all their silent testimony to the truth of the old 
saying — 

"Actions speak louder than words." 

Elsewhere in this volume I have explained in a measure 
briefly, how wild animals, birds, and insect life, even fish, 
recognize each other, and verify sight or sound by scent, 
more than sight, sound or language. And forty years experi- 
ence with silent nature, has proven to me that this rule 
applies to all, from the smallest living breathing mite or 
thing of life, to the largest of its kind. 

Another peculiar fact is this: that while they all recog- 
nize by sight or sign, yet they verify these senses by scent 
or smell, and that while we can impose upon the eye or 



104 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

mind, we cannot on memory or smell, except in a limited 
way. 

Now take dogs for instance. If you watch them as thej' 
go along, you will notice that they approach certain objects, 
such as a tree stump, log or mound (corner or lamp-post, 
telegraph pole, curbing, fence, post, or brick-wall, if you 
will), you will invariably see them stop, smell or scent it 
carefully; then mark it or "urinate" thereon; perhaps once 
or twice, go through certain peculiar motions, and pass 
on again to other certain spots, locations or places, and 
repeat the performance. Now how many of you are there 
who really know what all this means; never in your time 
of life perhaps have you had this explained, so reserve your 
decision until you hear what I have to say on these hitherto 
unknown subjects. 

That dog was simply confirming what I have tried to make 
plain to you all, i. e. — that it was using sign language and 
confirming sight, or memory by smell or by his own token 
leaving sign for information of others of his kind. 

It was one of his tribal signal stations, and by the recent 
signs of others of his kind left there, he was able to judge 
who left them, and not only this, but how long, since, and 
what direction the maker of the recent sign was traveling 
from that particular spot. Not only this, but he recognized 
and identified who made them, even — whether it was a friend, 
acquaintance, stranger or enemy, as I intend to prove to you 
now. 

POWER OF SCENT AND SIGN 

If you observe the animals closely, you will see that by 
sign do they show certain recognition or indifference; at 
other times, more than passing interest. Either way this 
was caused by recognition, that the sign thereon was left 
by a friend, acquaintance, stranger, or perhaps enemy. If 
you have, or will watch them closely, you will note how 
deliberately, oi eagerly they then smell the ground, and fol- 
low on a ways searching the ground for more sign, as if 
they meant to follow in the direction of the trail of the 
animal who visited the place, or who evidently preceded 
them. They will do this for a while, perhaps on each oc- 



COlAI-PLETE trappers guide 105 

casion, sometimes showing extreme eagerness as remarked 
before, and at other times contempt. The reason of it all, 
is because he has recognized by scent that the animal who 
made the sign he had smejled, was known to him, and the 
truth is, he fain would meet him, follow on and renew that> 
acquaintance; you can tell this by his apparent friendly way, 
for at times, he wall wag his tail, and show positive evi- 
dence of delight' or anticipation, as he recognizes who vis- 
ited that particular spot. 

Now, on the other hand, perhaps it was treated with in- 
difference; if so, it was an old sign or visit beyond rec- 
ognition by scent, hence \vas covered up by his later sign 
or mark, or again you might have noticed he showed actual 
contempt, mingled with low growls, instead of a whine of 
pleasure, then you may be sure that the sign was recog- 
nized as that of a stranger or enemy who dared leave mark 
of visit on his station or beat; perhaps one with whom he 
had an old grudge to settle. If so, you will notice, he will 
twice leave his sign, or turn around and deliberately scratch 
dirt at it, and with a hoarse deep meaning growl, leave 
plainly his sign as a mark of contempt or defiance to further 
emphasize his insulting remarks or meaning as to his visit 
or presence there. 

Or, I will put it to you this way. Supposing by the sign 
on that place he recognized his old chum, "Spot" (excuse 
the phrase), he acts as much as to say — between sniffs, 
"Hello Spot's" sniff, sniff, "I'd awfully much like to see 
you again" — sniff, sniff — "let's see" — sniff, sniff — "which way 
have you gone" — sniff, sniff — "it's too bad I did not smell or 
scent your sign before it's a day or so old" — sniff, sniff — 
"well it is no use following you. now, I'll have to trust seeing 
you again some time elsewhere and will leave my sign or 
scent to tell 3'ou I've been here just the same." 

Sunset Tints of the Sky — The colors most commonly seen 
at sunset are yellow, orange and red. The rays of the setting 
sun are dispersed, during their passage through the clouds, 
or accumulations of vapor at the horizon, and only the 
colors that are least turned out of their course, viz., the yel- 
low, orange and red, pass through and light up the western 
sky. 



The Sportsman's Ideal Sleeping Bag 
Outfit Complete. 

Wind, Weather, Water, Cold and Snow Proof. 




Used as a Mild Weather Qutfit. 



Dry Enough for Rainy Weather, 




No Tent Needed Even in Mid-Winter. "Warm Enough for Winter Use, 




^11 




Eead7 to Roll Up, 



Boiled Up. 



106 



CO'M'PLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 107 

SIGNALS, ETC., ETC. 

Or perhaps it might be like this — sniff. "Hello, here's 
Spot's sign," sniff, "why he was only here a few minutes 
ago," sniff — "let's see, which way did he go," sniff, and nose 
to the ground for more sign, he's off in the direction Spot 
went, in an effort to overtake him, trailing him out, using 
scent to overtake him — this by the power of scent alone. 

Still again, it might be a stranger who dared pollute the 
station with his sign, or be "Towser," his avowed enemy, 
or the "Bully" of the territory, whom he is anxious to meet 
and have it out with in another good old-fashioned scrap 
or chaw. Either way, you can see how by act or deed he 
expresses his contempt, silent or otherwise, and with his 
meaning by his scratches, which makes the dirt fiy between 
signs or growls, something in this fashion. Brr-row, brr- 
row, "dog gone your old hide, Towser" (or stranger); "if 
I catch you around my stamping ground, I'll chew the life 
out of you." Brr-row, brr-row, and the dirt sure flies at 
every scratch, as if to emphasize his meaning and to leave a 
further warning to others who pass that way. 

These are only a few instances of the ability of animals 
to recognize or verify sign by scent, which as I have said 
before, all belongs to the language and ways of wild ani- 
mal life. Bear in mind, please, that I have only cited here 
an instance of the dog, so as to make things plain to you; 
later on, I shall tell you of the varied ways of the different 
wild animals, which will interest you still more and shed 
more "Light On Dark Places." 

That animals generally who dwell in certain districts 
or communities maintain these certain signal stations, I 
know. Forty years experience has proven this beyond doubt. 
They all hold in a way, and maintain their community, or 
district rights; post their signs thus, to let each other know 
when trespassing or on strange, unfamiliar territory, so as 
to let each other know of their certain whereabouts, or to 
find their own way back again, mind you, by the further 
exercise of this astounding power of scent alone. 

Further than this too, I desire to impress on the reader 
this fact, that not only are there "signs of urine" so recog- 
nized, but even manure voidings; scratchings. Even hoof, 



108 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



foot, paws, tracks, are equally so identified as to whether or 
not they belong to acquaintance or stranger. 

In wild animal life, this serves various purposes — to in- 
form each other of their movements and locations, visits, 
and to also identify things that have been observed, or places 
visited by them, and any old experienced trapper or hunter, 
who has made a business of observing these things, will 
tell you, that when they bury or hide their foods, they leave 
these signs there, to mark, identify, and claim them as their 
own, and if there is more than one, each will leave its sign 
in turn — one after the other. 




CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 109 

LEAVING THEIR SIGN OR MARK 

Perhaps too, reader, you have noticed that even dogs, 
certain of them, usei different places, as their signal sta- 
tion; for instance, when they "urinate" and leave these signs, 
that if you watch them closely, you will observe certain dif- 
ference as to their locations. For instance, one set will take 
a street-corner, another clique will use the house-corner, 
another the fence, still others a tree, lamp-post or telegraph 
pole, others the street curbing; now all these are varied and 
known stations — like a post-ofifice, where they receive and 
distribute messages, and in "dogdom," they're only using a 
habit which has been inherited and brought down from the 
wild species of their kind. 

Now if you were a savage Indian, old woodsman or trap- 
per, if you should when going into the woods, observe here 
a rock, stump, or deadfall, there a bush, cliff, hill or mound — 
you would use these things as your signs or landmarks; thus, 
you can see that the animals follow the old woodman's plan, 
who blazes his way by cutting with an axe the 'bark of cer- 
tain trees along his route, or in breaking or bending over, 
branch-clippings, so as to indicate his route, either for the 
purpose of linding his way back again, or to inform his 
friends of the direction he has taken, in different paths, 
through the forest. Now, as animals can neither blaze their 
trees or bend back bushes as does the woodsman, it is 
obvious that they must have recourse to other things; hence, 
you can better understand why they leave their different 
signs as I have before explained, each and every one of 
which has its peculiar significant (I may say) fraternal 
meaning. 

Not that I would have you think each of the species of 
wild animals do the same thing; take wild cats, panthers, 
mountain lions, fox, wolf, coyote, muskrat, mink, beaver, 
wolverine, weasel, hedge-hog, each have their own peculiar 
methods and stations; some purring like a cat, rub its fur 
against a rock, bush or tree; others will claw a tree, sharpen 
their claws; still more roll or scratch the dirt; even moose, 
elk, caribou, reindeer, bears, even polar bears, musk-ox, all 
have their peculiar signs and leave them wherever they go; 
even the grizzly bear reaching up and leaving their signs 



no. COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

(claw marks)' well up on the stumps of trees, growths, all 
of which is mentioned in their respective chapters, as we 
shall see as we go along. 

Another important meaning to this act of urinating or 
watering frequently here and there, as is the case with many 
wild animals (like the dog) is this: That by it he is enabled 
to travel to strange and far distances,- and by the use of 
these marks and signs smtU his way back again to where he 
started from. And, further, that even with lack of these 
signs so keen and acute are the powers of scent in animal 
life generally that they can actually smell and remember the 
directive points they travel or are carried over without such 
signs, only it is a more difficult matter. By this I mean that 
they can identify a district by its scent or smell, and so 
memorize it as to find their way back to that very district 
if needs be. 

As to community and district, even certain property rights, 
we can observe and repeatedly trace evidence of this in 
wild animal life, be they social or solitary. To them the 
district or locality which they exist in for generations is as 
our home and neighborhood to us. Every rock, hill, ravine, 
log or peculiar stump within their territory is noted and 
memorized just as are the important street corners to us. 
They travel in paths and by-ways, as periodically and regu- 
larly as we do travel the streets, and so closely do they 
observe the peculiar differences of things that no unusual 
looking object escapes their diligent notice, exactly as does 
a savage or Indian his way by sight alone. 

Indeed, wild animals thoroughly familiarize themselves 
with all who live within their districts, and can practically 
recognize these places by sight and scent, just as we do our 
neighbors or districts, even though they may not be on 
"speaking terms" with them. They have their friends and 
acquaintances, their cliques and clans, and as a rule confine 
their rovings to their own well known districts, beyond 
whose certain limits they seldom pass, except in the seasons 
of migration, love or festivity, for the reason that they 
understand fully w^ell that they will be regarded as tres- 
passers by those animals on whose property or territory they 
pass through, at these times, and be treated accordingly. 

Further, I wish you to know that there are certain dis- 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 111 

tricts which belong to certain individuals and are so recog- 
nized. Not only this, but that they even recognize, dis- 
tinguish and punish trespassers or strangers who encroach 
on these territories. And, further, that they recognize or 
distinguish these trespassers or strangers, even when they 
don't see them, by means of their track, trail or footprints, 
no two of which are exactly alike. 

I know I will be laughed at by many when I say that 
animals even recognize and respect certain conditions of 
plant and animal life both, and maintain reserves both for 
game and food, or territory that is used on only certain 
occasions. Not only this, but that they refuse to eat certain 
plants, berries and bushes that have not fully matured, pass- 
ing them by as though to say, "a little later you will be in 
better condition for my wait, now." 

The same rule to animals who are flesh-eaters; they oft- 
times will refuse to molest a female who is bearing young, 
acting when they discover these facts as though ashamed 
and seeming to say or reason, "well, later on I'll have a 
feed of your young ones instead of you now." Many a 
time I have seen evidence of this, and have even known 
weasels and minks to only take a part of a family of young, 
without molesting the old or the others, as if they believed 
in practicing some sort of economy, alike to leaving food for 
another day. 

True, at times they exterminate whole families and show 
signs of blood-thirstiness more than hunger, but putting 
this and that together I believe that in such cases they are 
hunting off of their own territory, trespassing or poacher 
like, or else have harbored a grudge up against that particu- 
lar kind. 

Right here I want to be understood as one who denies 
that animals are generally exterminators of such species 
which they regard as legitimate prey; far from it; they use 
at times as much sense and reason as do we, and far more 
in many things. Again, too, I have noted that there seems 
to be a good deal of enmity existing between certain animals, 
and that in these cases, when they meet, there is pretty 
sure to be a war of extermination waged between them, 
whether hungry or not, as if to settle old grudges, differ- 
ences or feuds that seem to be remembered by them. In 



112 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

short, there seems to be a spirit of memory or resentment 
which influences them largely in these acts. 

I also wish to say at the same time that even among their 
natural prey there are some that do not molest even these 
kind, as though there was a certain friendship or mutual 
understanding which existed between them. 

Also that there are times when they will deliberately 
catch a victim and allow him to escape, not by accident as 
we would term it, but as though they reasoned and said. 
"Well, I'll let you go this time, but look out for me the next 
— you see I can catch you," or in this wise, "I'll reserve you 
for a feed later on, when I'm more hungry than I am now." 
The idea which seems to be general that animals catch and 
kill whenever they can, or when opportunity presents itself, 
is altogether a wrong one. 

I know personalh' many instances where they have not 
only suffered their game to go unmolested, but have actual- 
ly driven them away, as much as to say, "Get out of here"; 
even chased them a few rods for "practice" and then have 
turned and lain down again apparently indifferent, and yet 
pleased with what v/as a plain case of a "don't need" or 
"care for you" feeling. I am positive that these rules apply 
at times to all wild animals, fish, bird or insect life. And 
as I have repeatedly stated, there are times, unquestionably, 
when all seem to be more or less at peace with each other. 

Of one thing you may be certain, their intelligences 
suffice to enable them to reason out that a war of extermina- 
tion WDuld be fatal to their future existence, and over forty 
years' observations of such things has proven to me that 
wild animals are not the fools to indulge in this, but that 
they reason out and use judgment in such things, more 
than we. And I am positive that they also exercise thought 
and judgment as to those they kill, whether it be male or 
female, young of tender age, old and infirm, with reference 
to seasons of scarcity or plenty. 

Peculiar Traits 

I have known foxes to den for years, and to avoid 
molesting certain rabbits and burrows that existed close 
to them, and I have every reason to believe that they actu- 
ally lived on what we would call "distant terms," and in 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 113 

certain seasons, winter, for instance, I think it not unlikely 
that there was a tax regularly imposed by that fox family 
on his rabbit-ship. Further than this, I will cite an instance 
of the eagle who periodically imposes a tax on the fish- 
hawk or king fisher who operates in his, the eagle's domain, 
and who once in a while only steals the captured fish from 
his hawk-ship as a sort of a rental for operating on his ter- 
ritory. And the more I have seen of such things, the more 
I am convinced that the eagle reasons out that he is seek- 
ing a sort of a rental from a worthy tenant who is useful, 
and that did he continually steal his prey, Mr. King Fisher 
or Fish-Hawk would for reasons thereby leave for other 
territory; hence, the two get along on a sort of live and let 
live basis, or pay-rent-once-in-a-while style. 

When we see such things ourselves we are prone to 
jump at the conclusion, for instance, that it is a fight be- 
tween hawk and eagle, but when one sees them as often as 
I have he knows different. True, at times, the hawk con- 
tests this tax-like imposition, but I can only liken it to 
""can't" or "won't pay if I can help it" plan. 

In this the reader must bear in mind I refer to animal 
or bird life which exist in certain territorial districts, where 
each gets more or less acquainted with the others of its own 
or other kinds inhabiting the same regions as they. When, 
however, the}^ are migrating, or on territory distant from 
their own, they act much as thieves, robbers, trespassers and 
tramps do, and the best wins. Thus, when a strange bird 
or animal is found encroaching on another's territory, they 
seem to act the part as though they knew it, for it is then 
that their savage fights and combinations against each other 
seem to take place. 

I will put it to you in another way. Take, for instance, 
a bird or squirrel who nests in a certain tree — that tree per- 
haps has been its home for generations past, or rather the 
home of its family, which has been handed down from one 
to the other, generation to generation, and it recognizes it 
and considers it as its own property. They do this just as 
much as we do our home and location, and they will in- 
variably dispute its possession by others who seek to dis- 
place them or usurp from them with all the power they 



114- COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

possess, and they yield only to superiority or mastership. 
In other words, they must be driven away, or forced out. 

I don't care what the species, whether it is bird, animal, 
insect or fish, it is the same; they have their favorite spots 
and haunts, and will contest to the limit possession by 
strangers or others not to their liking. On the other hand, 
many times they seem to live close to and in harmony 
with enemies of their kind — seeming to tolerate them just 
as though they had a pre-arranged sort of understanding, 
that each could do so with certain impunity, depending on 
minding their own business, and keeping off each other's 
rights, or territory. Remember, I do not wish my readers 
to infer that they live on any terms of "friendship" or 
intimacy — far from it, but that they do live on terms of 
toleration I am positive. 

Perhaps the plainest instance or evidence of this we 
have in the prairie dog, owl and rattle-snake, with which 
nearly everybody is to a certain extent familiar. Hence, I 
will cite these as an instance, and will quote what an old 
Indian chief told me some years ago, when I was employed 
by the now famous 101 Ranch, Miller Bros., of Oklahoma. 
The story was, in fact, verified by five years' service in that 
territory, when I was employed by the United States Gov- 
ernment there, 1885 to 1890, as is mentioned in my record. 

To give you the Indian's words literally would be im- 
possible, as I made no note "of it at the time, yet my under- 
standing of his ideas was like this: 

Him dog no like snake, no like owl; bye-bye too much 
young dog. Owl eat 'em young one, bye-bye too much owl, 
snake eat 'em egg, bye-bye too much snake, old owl eat 
'em young snake, sometime owl he fly away, someone else 
catch him; long time snake, owl, prairie-dog be all same — 
no get more. No like each other. 

Thus we perceive tolerance and mutual good to each 
other — a sort of promise, or compromise, as if to keep down 
any surplus or over-population of a limited district as it 
were. Another instance, if not absolute proof, of the reason- 
ing power of animal life. Be it as it may, it can be likened 
much to the animal or savage-like habits of man. where 
they even have been known to kill and eat their own oflf- 



I 



COaiPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 115 

spring, even their parents, relatives, when they became too 
numerous, or so old as to become a burden. 

Neither have we to cite primitive man or savages for 
evidence of these or similar things, for, strange to say, 
deny it who can, there are even amongst civilized or edu- 
cated beings those who make away with their young or 
murder them for similar reasons today, and who desert or 
drive out their parents even, much as do the wild animals; 
hence, the one great stain or blot against animal life or their 
intelligences is even found in the human being as well. 

Neither will I rest yet. For while I could give innu- 
merable other instances, I deem it unnecessary, except to 
mention as a comparison the habits of fish, who show all 
siirilar traits, in respect to this or their property rights, 
for, as is well known, nearly every species show preference 
to certain locations, districts and places, and nearly every 
fisherman or angler will tell you of the "big fellows" who 
monopolize the best locations year after year, and who de- 
fend and- resist with all their powers intrusion of certain 
others, yet seem to tolerate at times those whom we re- 
gard as their enemies even, apparently for the good it does, 
for they seem to know that it serves as a lure, or to deceive, 
attract or decoy others to that vicinity, in order that they 
may prey upon them. 

Again, wolves will often make a surround of certain game 
which is feeding and await them at a certain or particular 
location to which the game is known to pass or repass, and 
will content themselves with obtaining a few stragglers 
once in a while, unperceived, instead of going in and stam- 
peding the herd, or in taking what we would call "pot 
luck." All of this I regard as true evidence of the reason- 
ing power and intelligence of animal life, exactly adapted to 
circumstances or conditions which exist at the time. 

While writing of this, it brings to my mind another 
peculiar trait of animal life which we perceive is somewhat 
similar to that of the savage kind, and which is brought to 
me forcibly by my polar and Indian experiences, i. e., the 
similarity of savage mankind to wild animal life under cer- 
tain conditions, social and solitary. We speak of mankind 
as a social animal, who lives in large communities and is not 




116 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

solitary. Now let us see how far this goes. I claim animal 
life is not as solitary as we assume, and I have in a way 
explained how animals who really do live in communities 
recognize and tolerate those that exist in the same territory 
with them. Later I shall show you how, in certain seasons, 
they often get together in seasons of peace and plenty, 
and seem to live in harmony with each other during that 
time. I have also tried to point out how they have their 
certain districts, property and ownership rights, love of home 
and haunts and a dislike or suspicion- of all strangers not 
known or familiar to them, and, further, how for genera- 
tions they live in the one district in preference to others; 
how they are regarded and treated as strangers and enemies 
when they go beyond these limits, and how, at certain times, 
they form little cliques, clans and bands and co-operate with 
each other and try to prove how, in all animal life, this is 
in a way as described. 

Now let me take you back to savage life. We find 
similar traits with those that live in large communities, 
socially, and with others who live in small families for gen- 
erations together — in a way live exactly as animals do. 
They have their certain limited territory and property rights, 
and regard as trespassers, strangers and enemies any who 
encroach upon their own hunting territory. We see the 
stronger imposing upon the weaker, even to eating each 
other — cannibalism, as we know it. Some living in large 
communities as in Africa, others in small families of a few 
generations or families only, as in the polar regions. Some 
live abject, solitary lives, driven out by their own, just as 
do wild animals, tribes, a few miles from each other; often 
wage desperate war with another, life enemies so to speak; 
others a family or so living apart, solitary, secluded, and 
having few things in common with each other; the bulk 
of the work falling on the females, just as it does in bird 
and animal life; we note that animal females become soli- 
tary to give birth to their young, retiring from the male, 
and hiding to produce their offspring, even driving away 
the males. Squaws retire alone, allowing no males to ap- 
proach them at these times, and the Indian bucks evince no 
interest or desire to. In many other ways and habits they 
resemble the animal to a large extent. 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 117 

Again we speak of birds and animals who only flock 
together at certain seasons of the year to migrate; we find 
this same thing with the human race, especially amongst 
the Indians or savages, who go north, south, east and west, 
migrate immense distances in seasons, just as do the ani- 
mals and birds, and who vary their habits,- life and diet, 
just as they do with seasonable change, and no more variety. 
They have their caste, distinction, likes and dislikes, good, 
bad and indifferent standards, just as do we; they tolerate 
certain enemies, and discriminate to their tastes as we do 
ours. They recognize superior qualities, differences in intel- 
ligence, and distinguish between those of the inferior grades 
or species as well. They can tell stranger from acquaint- 
ance, relatives from friends; think, reason, plan, converse 
with each other by means of a sign language without the 
use of words. 

True, civilization and education has made the vast dif- 
ference between us and the savage, but from the wild 
animal and the savage there is but little difference in lots 
of ways. Indeed, when one comes to think of it, of the 
two contact with civilization and education has degenerated 
the savage, but the wild animal, when left to its own re- 
sources, seems to improve. 

It has also been argued pro and con for generations that 
while animals, birds, etc., etc., have their mating, courtship 
and breeding seasons, mankind has not. Now, is this true? 
If we go back to the savage or primitive life, even Indian, 
we find they have their seasons of mating, courtship, love 
and breeding, too, and that it is generally in the seasons 
of plenty food, spring and fall, just as are the animals, and 
that their periods of courtship, mating and marriage are 
mostly in the spring and fall again, and births in season also. 
Now, strange though it may seem, although civilization and 
habit has changed much of this with us, I believe records 
will still show the preponderance of evidencie as to a 
natural, seasonable time for these things. But when we 
come to the wild savage or Indian life, we find it all the 
more rigidly adhered to; their seasons of courtship, mating 
and breeding are in a comparative way almost exactly 
influenced by the same adaptable period of time and food, 
as is with but few exceptions all animal creation. 



118 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



Indeed, the more closer we get to nature we find certain 
similarities existing or traceable to that of animal life, 
but it has been made so vastly different because the hand 
and ways of man made it so. This is not true with wild 
animal, bird or insect life, which is swayed and influenced 
by nature only, and although we are loth to believe many 
things that are true, we are also prone to ridicule the truth. 
Yet we cannot deny that nature is at least natural, rather 
than unnatural as we are in many things. 




In the Trappers Absence, 



COlMPLETE trappers guide 119 



LOCATING SIGNALS AND SIGNS 

We see the same in almost every animal that lives; 
each species in its own peculiar way having its own special 
signs, so plainly depicted at time that we ourselves can dis- 
tinguish and recognize them at a glance. Nor have we yet 
entered into argument as to the many varied and distinct 
sounds which all go to make up, an endless chain or sign 
language, so complete and perfect for the animals which 
use them that there is positively no necessity for more, 
much less any other kind, which would really be, if it existed, 
a curse rather than a blessing. 

Even with us, we seldom have to be told what approaches 
us; our ears tell the story before our eyes verify it, and 
even we, in many instances, can frequently tell what it is by 
the sound alone, in the distance, whether it be coming our 
way or going from us, whether it be animal, bird, man or 
reptile, almost. Not only that, but we can recognize by 
the foot-steps alone in many cases what the individual is. 
or who makes them. The buzzing sound of blow-fly, mos- 
quito, wasp, hornet or bee — even the common fly can be dis- 
tinguished or recognized by its sound, small as it is, even 
before the eyes have seen it. Now, if we were people of 
the wilderness, it would not be difficult to recognize how 
one would soon be able to tell by the rustle of the wing, 
or the sound of any animal's approach exactly who and 
what made it before our eyes sought out the object, or 
before our nose or scent, poor as it is, even played the 
part of recognition, so acute in animal life. We would not 
have to be told what it was, nor to tell others, for in an 
easier, safer, quicker, better way, this information would 
be imparted by sign and sound alone. 

As it is with animals, so is it with savavge or Indian, 
all of whom go by sign, mark the way they travel, and 
these signs we will note are as ingenious and plain as they 
are simple and effective. You will also observe that each 
tribe has its peculiar stations or locations to these signs, 
which are left and made that others may seek out and 
read them for their indications as plainly as we could read 
messages. 



120 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

Eike the animals, these stations are usually known as 
those most frequented by the tribal members of their kind. 
They may be, for instance, in the bends of rivers or creeks, 
midst clumps of certain trees, or close to certain rocky forma- 
tions, near hills, ravines, or along certain trials. Never- 
theless, they are signal stations reserved for their signs, 
just as among animal life, as I have described. 

Even in savage or Indian life they use similar signs. It 
may be a simple pile of dirt, sand, sticks, stones or marks, 
a piece of skin, hairs, a bone, or an object in a certain 
forked branch of a tree, and my experience with Indians 
has taught me many of the meanings of these signs. For 
instance, a pile of sand in a certain spot meant that Sand- 
Creek was the object point of their travel. Again, a piece 
of buffalo skin or hair in the forks of a certain tree would 
mean that Buffalo Forks was their destination; a piece of 
wolf skin in the bend of the creek or river would mean 
Wolf Creek. Again, the ashes of a camp fire, kindled from 
willow or other woods, would ofttimes signify where the 
remainder of the camping party was to be found by the 
kind of wood that was used in the fire. Even a few 
stones sought out in certain places told by their number 
the story of days and doings that to those initiated in the 
meanings of these signs meant what a letter of words or 
a written dispatch would mean to us. 

Thus does even the Indian silently choose, maintain and 
mark by signs certain places known only to his tribe, and 
by the same token is it that animals also travel, and similar 
strange places or objects become their tribal stations, or 
sign posts likewise, all of which serve to indicate their 
whereabouts, route or direction which they take, that others 
of their tribe or clan may follow on or themselves return, 
and the few simple meaningless marks or scratches that we 
see near a certain log, tree, stump or dead log tells a story 
to them as though it were written in our way, on pages 
of paper, for as ours is a language of words, theirs is of 
marks and signs, well known and recognized by those of 
their own species and clan. 

Again, not only do animals leave their marks, urinations 
or droppings, signs as described, but the}^ have it under- 



COiM'PLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 121 

stood amongst themselves as to where and how to leave 
them. One set selecting certain trees, as, for instance, 
pine or spruce, others oak, hackberry, willow or cotton- 
wood; others mounds or bushes, and not trees; and still 
inore, logs, stumps or rocks, and neither trees, mounds or 
bushes; in other words, I will say, in brief, that there are 
certain agreed signal stations as varied as is their methods 
of making signs, for they not only have different and dis- 
tinct places to leave these signs, but in many different ways 
as well. 

Again, some wild animals roll on the ground, others 
scratch logs, ground surfaces, rub certain trees, stumps or 
rocks with their bodies, leave their water (urinations), scent 
or manure, and by a hundred ways or means vary these 
signs, and mark the places where they leave them thus. 
The reasons are obvious; animal intelligence has learned 
by experience that it must of necessity hold and maintain 
distinctive marks of recognition in their signs even; that 
is why each species or clan and tribe seems to have its 
peculiar differences, both as to the manner of leaving them 
and place. Hence, the wild animal we see taking a good 
roll, scratching up the dirt with four legs, clawing or scratch- 
ing the trees, rubbing his body against rocks, bushes, trees 
or stumps, or voiding against them, is really doing some- 
thing else besides easing nature as we imagine. 

Surely it will be unnecessary for me to specify either 
the place or ways, or cite instances as to them, for have 
I not already told my readers that these vary and are in 
accordance with their selection, which varies, too; and it is 
beyond my power to fathom their secrets, except in a limited 
way. We can, however, take, for instance, the deer, moose, 
caribou, elk and reindeer. Each of them rub their bodies 
against certain trees; pine-martens will use the branches; 
musk-rats, beavers, mink, otters, will rub or use roots or 
stumps; lynx, wild cats, wolverines, bears will scratch or 
claw trees, often reaching up as far as they are able, while 
wolves, foxes, coyotes will water against stumps, mounds, 
rocks, bushes or trees. 

Now, if we take into consideration these things, we 
will find that even the hunter, trader and trapper have fol- 



122 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

lowed the way of leaving their signs or marks in a some- 
what similar way. The woodsman, for instance, blazes 
or marks with his axe trees in the dense forest through 
which he passes, so as to mark or indicate the way or route 
he has traveled through the thick forest ways or virgin 
dense brush or timber through which he forces or finds his 
way. At other times he bends over backward or forward 
certain small bushes or branches for the same purpose, or 
if in the mountain, turns over stones or groups them to- 
gether here and there in likely spots, and so on ad infinitum. 
Yet these are all signs which serve a similar purpose, as 
animal signs, exactly. 

The wild animal, as it travels to distant places, waters 
or voids on these prominent spots, and by such sign and 
scent is he able to remember them, and to return by them, 
just as is the woodsman able to return by the blazed route 
he has made, or in the mountains with his stone signs or 
marks. Equally, too, those who recognize or know these 
certain signs or their location are enabled to follow them 
or to read their various interpretations or meanings, and 
by the same token, in a limited way, do animals follow and 
read their signs. 

MORE ABOUT SIGN LANGUAGE, SIGNALS 

ETC. 

Men versed in Indian and savage lore know well that 
Indian tribes each have their stations, signs and meanings, 
in exactly similar lines— one tribal nation differing from 
the other only by its distinct peculiarity. With one tribe 
it might be a stick in a notch of a tree, • or stuck up in 
the earth, close to a certain well knowfi ground — a few 
stones, piece of bark, burned wood, like a camp fire— the 
hundred apparently meaningless marks constitute signs that 
represent a veritable language, so to speak. Reader, have I 
yet made things plain to you? 

As additional evidence of the knowledge thus gained 
that the powers of scent and the recognition of sign with 
animal life, it will doubtless surprise many of my readers 
to learn that wild animals generally possess their own 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 123 

conceptions even, or knowledge as to kind of track, trail, 
sign or scent made or left at these places, who made them, 
and when, whether a few hours or a day old, or more, and 
the direction which was traveled therefrom to a degree that 
is astonishing to us, and that by these means can they in- 
variably follow, locate or overtake those they desire to 
meet, or to avoid those they do not, equally as well. 

Also, that they possess the power of withholding their 
scent to a certain degree, should it become necessary to 
confuse or mislead their enemies or kind. Very often we 
will notice an animal continually searching or trying to 
scent another who, for some reason of antipathy or dis- 
like,* refuses to become party to the identification, apparent- 
ly aiming to confuse or render the knowledge difficult to 
gain if only for a while. This is done by partially, or 
wholly, withholding the breath, and is prolonged or influ- 
enced largely by the animal's condition, as, for instance, 
whether winded by running or not. It really seems to de- 
pend on the animal's lung or will-power. Again, too, it is 
possible for animals who conceal themselves, who lie still 
or doubled up, to withhold their scent from those who are 
coming their way. 

By the same token, too, can they emit or increase their 
scent, as well as withhold it, as circumstances require; in 
some cases you can see evidence of this, dropping the tail, 
contracting its body, the holding of its breath, and, finally, 
by snorts or gasps, when it exhausts or expands its lungs 
again — an act, by the way, that even Indians or Esquimaux 
follow when in close proximity to gain time, in order to les- 
sen his chances of being observed by the animals' sense of 
smell. Again, we note that when they leave their dens 
or burrows animals invariably smell or scent around them, 
and do the same thing prior to re-entering them after an 
absence; this is to ascertain if there are any signs which 
indicate that someone has visited there while they are away. 

Again, we can note that when approaching a carcass, 
for instance, a dead bird, fish or object, that they rely 
largely on scent and sign to inform them whether or not 
it has been visited, killed or marked by another animal, 
and if so, it will often be left untouched, especially be it 



L24 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

marked by any of the signs I have described before, which 
would, in a way, distinguish it as the property of the ani- 
mal who marked or claimed it. Not that it is left always 
so, by any means; this depending largely on whose sign 
it was, for I have seen time and time again where the 
finder has settled down indifferently to a feast after smell- 
ing and nosing around it, as much as to say, "Well, I don't 
care for him — he knows me." On the other hand, I have 
observed that where the finder has, after a few sniffs, at 
times found out who it belonged to, that he has often 
scurried away, tail between his legs, without touching it, 
as much as to indicate that it belonged to a particular 
enemy of his, and to reason out that if caught around there 
he might get into serious trouble. And I believe this has 
'been often verified by the fact that when particularly hungry 
and feasting on such remains, they seemed to be in a state 
of agitation and fear, that they would be detected in the act. 

Again, we find evidence of the powers of withholding 
or increasing the scent when animals are pursued in the 
thicket or close timbers, for they will periodically emit or 
retard their scent, alternately, giving a strong scent as they 
enter thick brush, and then doubling and retarding or with- 
holding it in an effort to confuse or throw the enemy oif 
their track, and by such means gain advantage of delay 
by the act. This, however, becomes a difficult matter when 
the pursued or tired animal becomes winded, and in such 
cases they will invariably seek to hide and rest, seeming 
to know their failing, and to recognize that when first 
heated or run much the scent is all the more evident, or 
beyoHd their feeble efforts to withhold. And it is a fact, 
too, that when extreme exhaustion results that even this 
scent seems to be exhausted or lessened to an equal degree, 
and if the chase is thus long continued they becomg so 
that they can neither see, hear, smell or proceed further, 
so completely fagged out do they become. Their eyes 
become glary, the body weak, steps staggering, until they 
sink to the ground, helpless, and seeming to give up the 
unequal contest without further effort. 

By this time I believe the reader is satisfied that sign, 
scent and sound constitutes the language of all animal life; 



II 



COlM'PLETE trappers guide 125 

that act, movement, expression, smell, anticipation and recog- 
nition in a thousand different ways all prove the existence 
of a universal sign language among the species, much of 
which can even be interpreted and understood by species 
other than its kind. 



ALARM OR DANGER SIGNALS, SIGNS, ETC. 

The flap of the beaver's tail in the water, and the noise 
it makes, is just as complete a signal of alarm or danger 
as would be our words or call. The movement of the ants' 
antennae, head or body expresses by sign a language suited 
to its every purpose, and it verities doubtful recognitions 
by smell or scent, just as we do by voice or vocal differ- 
ences, as explained. The sound of the rattle-snake's button 
indicates its fears and wants, just as does the tail of the 
beaver, while the movement of the tail of the squirrel, deer, 
rabbit or hare flashes its signals in its flights that answers 
its every purpose, exactly as sound would, for it is all sign. 

The chirp of the bird, the movement of its head, body, 
wings or tail, its cries of alarm, strangeness of flight and 
actions, all mean language and sign. 

The stamp of the foot of the elk, antelope or moose 
is as plain a challenge as words could be; the movements 
of fish from minnow to whale, and the sound of these 
movements in the waters, be it pool or ocean, is as plain 
a sign as is the thud of the woodsman's axe, falling tree, 
or pistol shot, to us, who recognize the sound and know 
what it means. The drumming of the grouse by its wings, 
the hammer-like noise of the woodpecker from the hol- 
low-wood of a dead tree, is a love or mate call, that to its 
partner is like the call of the distant cow-moose to the 
bull, for they are sounds made necessary by distance, where 
sign would be unavailing. Yet all these sounds are signs 
just the same, as is the whine or bark of the wolf or coy- 
ote, the yelp of the fox, the mew of the wild or domestic 
cat, or the bark of the dog, for are they not all signs to 
attract attention, betray its distant wants or fears, or as a 
call to its kind? 



126 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




COiMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 127 

The hoarse bark of the seal or walrus, the "flukes" of 
the sperm — right or bowhead monstrous whale — are all 
signs and signals that have their meaning and effect. I 
have hunted each in turn, and know whereof I speak. 

The sound of the woodpecker's drumming, the croak of 
the bull-frog, the chirp of the squirrel or prairie dog, are 
sounds and signs, but not language, for when they really 
communicate to each other, not distant away, there are 
none or but few sounds, all signs instead. The scream of 
the panther, wolverine, mountain cat or lynx in the dense 
woods are but distant calls and expression likewise, for 
they do not indulge in them ordinarily when together. 

Another thing I desire to call attention to is the fact 
that the intelligence of wild animals is, in many instances, 
of much deeper extent than we actually realize. And from 
a wild animal standpoint their powers of discernment and 
discrimination are far greater than ordinarily we imagine 
or infer them to be, simply because we don't understand 
them or their ways, as we should, or as they do ours. 

Take the dog or cat, as an instance; I will put it to you 
this way. I claim that they can even feel or perceive 
knowledge of your absence or presence, within or about 
their vicinity, when you are not actually seen by them, 
and that they can even, by familiarity with certain of your 
habits, anticipate the time of your departure or arrival 
home, especially if your habits are regular, for then do 
they anticipate not only your actions, but your intent as 
well, and in your conversation with others in their pres- 
ence they can tell whether or not they • are talked about, 
whether your remarks are made in jest or earnest, and are 
capable of judging even if you're angry or good-natured; 
whether you mean what you say or not, and other things 
of a surprising nature. 



The Blue Color of the Sky is believed to be caused by the 
reflection of the smaller waves of light, viz., the indigo and 
blue, from very minute particles scattered throughout the 
sky. The diffusion through the air of small opaque particles 
of any substance capable of reflecting light will impart to 
it a bluish tint. 



128 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



« 



STALKING BIG GAME 




A Secret of the Hunter's Success 



COiMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 129 

TRICKS IN GUIDING AND SCOUTING AND 
HOW TO STALK GAME, ETC., ETC. 

How to Hide Yourself 

When you want to observe wild animals you have to 
stalk them, that is, to creep up to them without their see- 
ing or smelling you. 

A hunter when he is stalking wild animals keeps himself 
entirely hidden, scouts and hunters stalking game always 
carry out two important things when they don't want to 
be se'en. 

One is — they take care that the ground behind them, or 
trees, or buildings, etc., are of the same color as their clothes. 

And the other is — if an enemy or a deer is seen looking 
for them, they remain perfectly still, without moving so 
long as he is there. 

If wearing dark clothes get among dark bushes, shadows 
of trees or rocks, shade of dark ground. If light clothing, 
choose the ground beyond the shade or shadows. Keep 
perfectly still, and creep or crawl when every opportunity 
affords; watch and wait for your chance to sneak up a 
few yards or so at a time. If you can get closer by a cir- 
cuitous route take it — if the wind is not in your way; only 
never show yourself on the sky line. If you are observed 
don't move or blink — keep still, and you will reassure them. 
To dodge or disappear would be suspicious. If they are 
watching you remain quiet, and they will think your head, 
or body part is a stump or rock. In peering over a hill 
or rock raise your head inch by inch; lower it the same way. 
Never raise or lower k suddenly. 

When hiding behind a big stone or mound, etc., they 
don't look over the top, but round the side of it. 

When stalking one should wear moccasins and walk 
lightly on the ball of the foot, keeping the heels off the 
ground, so as to be shod with silence. In looking over an 
object remember any quick or sudden movement of the head 
on the skyline would be very liable to attract attention, 
even at a considerable distance. 



L30 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

At night keep as much as possible in low ground, 
ditches, etc., so that you are down in the dark, so that any- 
thing that comes near will be visible to you outlined against 
the stars on higher ground. 

Remember always that to stalk a wild animal you must 
keep down wind of him, even if the wind is so slight as to 
be merel}^ a faint stir. 

Before starting to stalk you should be sure which way 
the wind is blowing, and work up against it. To find this 
out you should wet your thumb all around with your tongue, 
and then hold it up and see which side feels coldest, or you 
can throw some light dust, or dry grass or leaves in the 
air and see which way they drift. 

Take your time; never hurry or get excited. The game 
will not leave unless you scare or drive them off. If they 
observe j^ou at all you will have to be mighty careful and 
make a direct change of direction from some other vantage 
point. If they run don't follow them, it's useless and only 
drives them out of that territory or vicinity, as once scared 
they travel miles to some cover and hide, and are wary 
for days after. Better postpone the effort or seek others. 

How to Find Direction 

If you have not a compass the sun will tell you by day 
where the north is, and the moon and the stars by night. 

At six o'clock in the morning the sun is due east, at nine 
o'clock he is southeast, at noon he is south, at three o'clock 
in the afternoon he is southwest, and at six o'clock he is 
due west. In winter he will have set long befo^re six 
o'clock but he will not have reached due west when he is set. 

Finding the North 

To find the south at any time of day by the sun — hold 
your watch flat, face upwards, so that the sun shines on it. 
Turn it round till the hour hand points at the sun. Then, 
without moving the watch, lay the edge of a piece of paper 
or a pencil across the face of the watch so that it rests 
on the center of the dial and points out half-way between the 
figure XII and the hour hand. The line given by that 
pencil will be the true south and north line. 



COiM'PLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 131 

Additional Hints on Mountain Travel. 

In order to successfully travel the mountains, it is neces- 
sary to understand their complete "make up" and to know 
how to skillfully follow the divide. When the divide 
separates the waters of two streams not unitin^:? with each 
other it is known as a principal divide, and always affords 
the best route of travel. 

The sides of canyons and ravines are frequently so pre- 
cipitous that it is neither advisable nor possible to cross 
them; and although it is sometimes easy traveling along 
the^bottoms (the level land enclosed between the sides), 
when iTot too narrow and rocky, the best route will, con- 
sidering all things, be found along the divides. Such a route 
is frequently long and crooked, but it is a good one. 

Suppose it be required to pass from stream to stream, 
parallel to it, but separated from it by very high and broken 
mountains. 

To accomplish this most expeditioush', follow up the 
stream to where we will suppose a tributary of the stream 
puts in. Now if there be a good route, apparently, over the 
divide a'bove this tributary, turn to the right and follow it, 
until the principal divide is reached. The route, if prac- 
ticable, may be taken along the bottom, should water be 
desirable, as far as necessary and then the divide may be 
taken. Having reached the principal divide, pass over it 
and descend by any suitable and practical divide as lead- 
ing from the principal divide, to the other stream. It 
will be found that all the divides lead to the principal di- 
vide, and hence there will be no doubt as to finding the 
principal divide; but it will often require good judgment in 
selecting the most practicable divide leading to it. It will 
be still more difficult to select the practicable divide in 
descending, as all appear more or less practicable from the 
summit. The innumerable cul de sacs, met with in descend- 
ing, can only be avoided by exercising great caution. In 
every case the divide selected should separate tributary 
ravines of two important tributaries of the stream. In a 
great many cases these ravines overlap each other and render 
the route very sinuous. 



132 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



It is recommended to follow game trails, when dis- 
covered, in passing from one stream to another. They 
usually follow the most direct and practicable route over 
a fair divide. When arriving at the steep edge of a ridge, 
and where difficulty in finding a good trail is anticipated, 
it is a safe rule to descend first, on foot, and seek a trail 
for the command or train as you climb back again. It is 
much easier to make this selection while ascending than 
while descending; for when at the bottom of a hill, its 
bluffs and precipices face you, so that they may be readily 
avoided, but when at the top of the hill these parts are 
overlooked and not seen, until closely approached. 

The investigation of ravines is the exact reverse of that 
of the divides; but localities are much more readily lost when 
the ravines proceed thence in various directions. On cross- 
ing a divide and coming upon a system of ravines leading 
to a different principal ravine, the traveler should make very 
sure of his course and frequently take the bearings of the 
most prominent landmarks. 










^i 



CO^M'PLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 133 

PLAINSCRAFT, WOODCRAFT AND MOUN- 
TAIN TRAVEL 

Hints to Sportsmen 

The sportsman can, if need be, in stress of accident or 
misfortune, forego nearly every appliance of civilization, and 
having learned the ways of the savages, live and enjoy life 
as the savages do. The skins of animals he slays, or the 
bark of the birch or the hemlock will make him a shanty; 
pieces of fresh peeled bark supply him with cups and plates 
which need no washing after use, as they are thrown away. 
Cedar roots and tough long grasses supply twine and rope, 
a spindle of hard dry wood rapidly revolved with the hands 
upon a piece of soft pithy wood, or with an ordinary bow 
with a single turn of the string around the spindle, will 
obtain a fire; he can bake his fish and bread in the ashes 
and broil his meat on a stick; and provided he has only 
sufficiently warm clothing, a trusty gun, a hatchet, knife, 
matches and compass, he has the measure of his necessi- 
ties full. 

OUTFIT OF CLOTHING FOR ONE YEAR 

3 pairs heavy wool blankets '. $20.50 

2 pairs pack straps, $3 ; 1 hand ax, $1 4.00 

2 pairs three-quarter size boots, leather soles, $6 12.00 

2 pairs high top lace shoes 7.50 

4 pairs German socks, 75c 3.0O 

2 pairs lumberman's rubbers 3.00 

2 pairs suspenders 75 

4 suits heavy wool underwear 12.00 

4 dark blue flannel overshirts 8.00 

4 pairs Mackinaw pants 11.00 

2 Mackinaw coats 6.00 

2 blanket coats 800 

12 pairs socks, wool •• • • 4.50 

6 pairs wool mittens 3.00 

A few yards mosquito netting and towels l.OO 

1 buckskin pouches 5.00 

1 magnet, 50 cents ; 2 pairs goggles, 50 cents 1.00 



Types of High and Mediuin Grade Shot 

Guiis. 




Automatic Ejector— "Hammerless" Shot Gun. 




The Repeating Shot Gun. 




High Grade "Hammerless" Shot Gun, 



Medium Grade "Hammer" Shot Gun. 

134 




COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 135 

2 pairs snow glasses 1.00 

1 dozen bandana handkerchiefs 1.00 

1 lot spoons, knives and forks 1.35 

1 butcher knife 75 

4 oil blankets 6.00 

1 lot buckets, pans, cooking utensils, etc 3.35 

1 41 Colt's revolver and ammunition 15.00 

1 Winchester rifle and ammunition 18.00 

2 fur caps 2.50 

1 Short Gun and Ammunition 15.00 

1 Tent, 10 or 12 oz. Duck 18.00 

2 Canteens and Slings 3.00 

1 First Aid Pack and Medicine 2.00 

1 assortment traps 20.00 

(Various sizes and grades.) 

2 Skinning and Fleshing Knives 1.50 

1 Repair Kit and Contents .^ 3.00 

Ration Outfit for Two Men for One Year 

(With costs approximated.) 

4 barrels best flour, at $6. . . $24.00 

200 pounds granulated sugar, at 6 cents 12.00 

200 pounds navy beans, at 4 cents 8.00 

100 pounds of corn meal 2.75 

250 pounds of breakfast bacon, at 12^ cents 31.25 

75 pounds of island rice, 6 cents. 4.50 

2 cases condensed milk 17.50 

20 pounds salt 35 

25 pounds best j\Iocha and Java coffee 8.75 

10 pounds best tea 4.50 

8 pounds soda 70 

20 pounds baking powder 9.20 

25 pounds dried apricots 2.50 

25 pounds dried peaches 2.50 

25 pounds dried apples 2.25 

2 boxes candles 5.00 

1 box pepper, 25 cents ; soap $1 1.25 

3 boxes yeast, 25 cents; one-half tin matches, 50c 75 

1 Yukon stove complete 6.00 



Types of Automatic Magazine PistcAs 
and R-evolvers. 



The Luger Automatic Magazine 
Pisto I. 30 Calibre— 8 Shot. Range 
over 500 yards. 




The Colt Automatic Magazine 
Pistol. 38 Calibre— 7 Shot. 





Smith & Wesson's 

Revolver. 

New Departure Hammer 

less, Double Action. 
5 Shot; 32 or 38 calibre. 
3, 4, 5 or 6 inch barrel. 



WHh S4fety Attachment. 





Colts' New Army Revolver. 
6 Shot— 38 or 41 Calibre 



Smith & Wesson's 
Revolver. 
Hinge Pattern, 

Double Action 
5 Shot;. 32 or 38 calibrci 



AMtmutic E^ctw. 



136 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 137 

1 double-bladed ax complete 1.50 

13 oil sacks, 50's and lOO's (rations) 7.55 

1 coffee mill, 35 cents 35 

12 pounds condensend onions 5.00 

10 pounds evaporated spuds 2.50 

40 pounds rope 5.00 

Toilet soap 50 

6 tin plates, 50 cents ; 3 granite cups, 50 cents 1.00 

1 coffee pot, 40 cents ; whetstone, 20 cents 60 

Awls, shoe thread, wax, bristles, etc 1.00 

2 Fry pans, $1 ; fish Ime and hooks, 50 cents 1.50 

6 assorted files, 60 cents ; oil blacking, 50 cents 1.10 

1 package chocolate 30 

2 miner's candlesticks 1.00 

24 pounds raisins, 10 cents 2.40 

TO BOIL WATER OR COOK IN A BLANKET 

Take a rubber Poncho blanket, or even a woolen one, 
and fold it into several thicknesses; dig a small hole in the 
ground and set your blanket in the space dug, depressing the 
center so as to fill the hole. Lay a few stones on the edges 
to hold the corners of the blanket in position. Heat some 
smooth round stones — large ones — and when all ready fill 
your blanket lined hole with water and drop in hot stones 
until the water and contents is boiling. The writer has 
cooked venison, meat, fish and chowder excellently by this 
plan when without utensils, and many a time used this de- 
vice for washing dirty clothes. Several thicknesses of good 
woolen blanket will hold water like a tub. If in a birch bark 
country, large sheets of birch bark wnll answer the purpose 
admirably if the hole in the ground is lined with them in 
successive layers. One needs simply to tax his ingenuity 
to make a very successful lining for the pit or hole in the 
ground. The Esquimaux, Indians and the Laplanders of 
northern Norway, from whom the author learned this trick, 
use a reindeer hide and cook excellently large quantities of 
meats thus — the hairy side of the animal skin being, of course, 
at the bottom. It is a very simple, crude trick, but its 
effectiveness is remarkable. Indians also use this device 
whenever they tan hides or skins, using the larger hide as the 
vessel. 



138 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



LONG AND SHARP SIGHTEDNESS 

The man who can walk about the lawn or in the park and 
pick up four-leaf clovers has an eye that is worth big money to 
him. He can easily be trained to see things that the ordinary 
man will miss, or have to look a long time to find. 

Some men who go hunting can see a squirrel in an oak or 
hickory tree with apparent ease, while others will go strolling 
about the timber and never see the game at all. It is the same 
way in the open field. The rabbit can be found sitting by some 
while others will almost run over the creature before they are 
detected. 

This ability is a gift. This is not only a gift developed by 
some and undeveloped by others as a result of their surround- 
ings, but it measures the exact amount of intelligent effort they 
have expended in attaining this ability, also their preservance 
in this line of endeavor. 

Hence to obtain this gift one must train the eye to search- 
ing for small game — such as squirrels and a day in the woods 
without any weapons ofttimes repays one who will devote 
time and attention to familiarizing himself with the habits and 
peculiarities and knack of sighting game under the very condi- 
tions of their daily existence. 

The Best All-round Gun 

Apropos of arms, I have repeatedly said, here and elsewhere, 
that in my opinion the handiest and most serviceable gun for 
all-round work is a 12-gauge of high grade, and not heavier 
than seven and one-half pounds. I have been pretty sharply 
criticised for this, especially 'tother side the salt bath — but that 
doesn't matter. Your British sporting editor is a good fellow, 
and conscientious withal, and he knows a lot about British af- 
fairs, and occasionally, quite a lot about American affairs. I 
am a great admirer of the tj'pical British sportsman, and would 
welcome ten thousand of him this side. I respect his gameness, 
honesty, and skill ; but at the same time I do not overlook the 
fact that there are plenty of excellent judges of American affairs 
within range of this burg. I favor the 12-gauge for all-round 
work here, not because it's the only size I have used and know 
anything about, but for several other reasons, one of which is 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



139 



a very fair knowledge of 14's, 16's, and 20's. Any well-informed 
sportsman knows that good small guns are hard shooters and 
easy to handle, but that is not the all-important point in a coun- 
try where the great majority of sportsmen pin faith to one good 
all-round gun and seek their sport, it may be, hundreds of miles 
from a dealer \Vho handles shells smaller than 12's. Not long 
ago a pair of us went into Pennsylvania — an easy stage from 
New York — for a day with quail and grouse. We reached our 
destination, a small village, shortly after sunrise, and, unfortu- 
nately, the shells were left in the car. The one local shopkeeper 
had sold out, and at that moment was fuming over delayed 
supplies. For a bit it looked like a wasted trip, but the guide 
trotted away, and in fifteen minutes returned with plenty of 
shells, which he had borrowed from some of his acquaintances. 
Outside of a sample on a card in the shop, there wasn't a shell 
smaller than a twelve within a radius of twenty-five miles. A 
lost package would have meant the ruination of a hard-earned 
holiday for the man using a smaller gun. So far as I can see, 
the sole advantage of the smaller gun lies in a trifling re« 
duction of weight in arm and shells. 



^r-^^Sj^-J*. 



w 




L40 



WEATHER OBSERVATIONS 

Or How to Become Weather Wise. 



MApt-i- TAIL 

CIRRUS 

£7000 tm fa eoo^ 



CIRRO-STRATUS 



I CiRRO-CUMliLUJ) 



r Airo-cyTt^uiyi 



ALTO STRATUS 



STRATO-CijMULic 



CUMULUS 



CI/MUiJO NIMBUS 



NIMBUS 



STRATUS 

..,--500 ft 





rFiuaRM 



2 



/-I JLJ 



A Study in Cloud Effects 



CO*MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 141 

The following indications of the character of approach- 
ing weather changes are afforded by local observations of the 
wind and the barometer: 

When the wind sets in from points between south and 
southwest and the barometer falls steadily, a storm is ap- 
proaching from the west or northwest, and its center will 
pass near or to the north of the observer within twelve or 
twenty-four hours, with winds shifting to northwest by way 
of southwest and west. When the wind sets in from points 
between east and northeast, and the barometer falls steadily, 
a storm is approaching from the south or southwest, and its 
center will pass near or to the south or east of the observer 
within twelve to twenty-four hours, with winds shifting to 
northwest by way of north. The rapidity of the storm's 
approach and its intensity will be indicated by the rate and 
amount of the fall in the barometer. 

A. Upper Clouds, Average Altitude a Little Over 

Six Miles 

Cirrus (Ci.). — Detached feathery clouds usually white, 
often arranged in belts with an effect of perspective, con- 
verging toward one or two points on the horizon. The Ci. 
and Cu. often take part in forming such belts. 

Cirro-stratus (Ci.-s.). — A fine whitish sheet, sometimes 
completely covering the sky, sometimes appearing like a 
tangled web. Often produces halos around the sun and moon. 

B. Intermediate Clouds 

Cirro-cumulus (Ci.-cu.). — Small globular masses, arranged 
in groups or often in lines — "mackerel sky." Average alti- 
tude, 4 to 6 miles. 

Alto-cumulus (A.-cu.). — Dense globular masses of white 
or grayish cloud, arranged so closely in groups or lines that 
their edges meet. They often pass into S.-cu. at the center 
and at the edges into Ci.-cu. Average altitude, l^S to 2 miles. 

Alto-stratus. — A thick sheet of bluish or grayish cloud, 
exhibiting a bright patch near the sun or moon. It does not 
cause halos, but som.etimes gives rise to coronae. Altitude, 
3 to 3^ miles. 



142 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

C. Lower Clouds 

Strato-cumulus (S.-cu.)- — Large masses or balls of dark 
cloud, seen oftenest in winter, frequently covering the whole 
sky and giving it a wavy appearance. Blue sky can often be 
seen through breaks in the cloud. It can be distinguished 
from nimbus by its globular appearance and from the fact 
that it does not bring rain. Altitude, 9,400 to 7,800 feet. 

Nimbus (N.) Rain Cloud. — A thick layer of dark clouds, 
shapeless and with ragged edges, from which rain or snow 
falls. Through openings in these clouds cirro-stratus or 
alto-stratus can usually be seen above. When broken into 
shreds, it is called fracto-nimbus; scud, by sailors. 



D. Clouds of Diurnal Ascending Currents 

Cumulus (Cu.) Wool-pack Clouds. — Thick clouds, with 
dome-shaped upper surfaces, which show protuberances, and 
horizontal bases. These clouds appear to be formed by a 
diurnal ascensional movement which is almost always ap- 
parent. When the cloud is opposite the sun, the surfaces 
seen by the observer are brighter than the margins of the 
protuberances. When the light falls from the side, these 
clouds give deep shadows, but if on the same side of the 
sun, they seem dark, with bright edges. Altitude, about 
1 mile. 

Cumulo-nimbus (Cu.-n.) Thunder Cloud, Shower Cloud. — 
Heavy masses of cloud, rising like turrets, anvils, or moun- 
tains, generally surrounded at the top by a sheet of fibrous 
appearance — "false cirrus" — and with a mass similar to nim- 
bus underneath. From the base usually falls local rain or 
snow, sometimes hail or sleet. Altitude (of upper part), 6 
to 10 miles. 

E. High Fogs 

Stratus (S.). — A horizontal sheet of lifted fog. When 
broken into irregular shreds 'by the wind, it is sometimes 
called fracto-stratus. Altitude, less than Y^ mile. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 143 

WEATHER SIGNS, ETC. 

ART OF FORETELLING WEATHER CHANGES 

Guides, scouts, etc., should bear in mind that, while Gen- 
eral Weather Conditions can be foretold, no hard and fast 
rules can be laid down for any particular locality. For in- 
stance, one might say there is every prospect of a storm 
approaching, and yet it may not affect the particular locality 
you are apt to be in. It might pass within a radius of a few 
miles from where you are, and while there was every visible 
indication that it would strike or afifect your locality — there 
is nothing certain about it — the same rule applies in an 
opposite sense, as frequently a region that has every indica- 
tion of being immune, or out of the path of the storm, by 
some change \vhich it is impossible to correctly foretell, be- 
comes affected or perhaps the center of change. That is why 
the experts of the Weather Bureau often fail (or are sup- 
posed to fail) in their predictions. Hence, in this chapter 
I shall dwell upon the subject in general and give the reader 
a host of well known signs from which one can gather a 
lot of unusual important ones, viz: 

Rain before wind — is the sign of a storm behind. 

Wind— Rain — indicates fine weather to follow. 

Slow, drizzling rains — last long; sudden showers are short. 

Morning thunder — betokens strong winds. 

Noon thunder — indicates rain storms. 

Evening thunder — ^precedes a tempest change. 

(By these signs one can anticipate fairly.) 

Much thunder, much rain; little thunder, little rain; no 
thunder, but gradual assembling of rain clouds, sign of much 
wet weather to come. 

When 'mules or horses frequently bray, snort or sneeze, 
you may expect weather changes. 

When bats are astir early or late fine weather is indicated. 

When bulls lead the cows to pasture and are restless to 
get out, look for rain. If the cows lead, moderate sign. 
When they snifif the air, crowd together, expect a storm. 

When goats, sheep or cows reluctantly leave the pasture 
expect rain. 

Cattle — sheep — eat greedily before a storm; sparingly be- 



144 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

fore a thaw. Feed up hill in wet weather, down hill in dry- 
weather. 

Observe which way a hedgehog builds a nest — if it faces 
North, South, East or West. 

For the winds will blow, and the storms do go 
The contrary way, I'll have you know. 

Pigs squealing, running about with hay or straw in their 
mouth, foretells storm, rain or change. 

When ducks and chickens are restless, pick and prune at 
their feathers, look out for rain. 

When fowls roll in dirt or sand, rain at hand. 

When roosters crow as they go to bed, change of weather. 

When birds fly high and sing long, sign of fair weather. 

There is a greater tendency to rain when the moon is in 
the quarter after full moon, especially with the moon in 
Perigee. 

Northerly winds are prevalent in the last quarter. 

Southerly winds are prevalent in the first quarter. 

When the Rain precedes the Wind, 

Topsail sheets and the Helm mind: 

But when the Wind precedes the Rain, 
Hoist your Topsails up again. 

•• Mountain winds blow up mountain during the day, and 
down at night. 

WIND FORCE TABLE 

Calm to 1 mile per hour 

Light air 2 to 3 miles' per hour 

Light breeze 8 to 10 miles per hour 

Gentle breeze 10 to 15 miles per hour 

Moderate breeze 15 to 20 miles per hour 

Fresh breeze 20 to 25 miles per hour 

Strong breeze 25 to 30 miles per hour 

Gale 30 to 40 miles per hour 

Storm 50 to 60 miles per hour 

Hurricane 60 to 90 miles per hour 



COlMPLETE trappers guide 145 

LAND AND SEA BREEZES 

As a rule wind blows from sea to land at day, and from 
land to sea at night. 

INDIAN MOONS. The Indian recognizes each lunar 
change as follows: 

January, Winter Moon; February, Windy Moon; March, 
Waking Moon; April, Wet Moon; May, Mulberry Moon, 
Medicine Moon; June, Blackberry Moon; July, Little Ripe 
Moon; August, Plenty Ripe Moon; September, Chestnut 
Small Moon; October, Big Nut Moon; November, Falling 
Leaf Moon; December, Cold Moon. 

They also refer to them as Storm Moons, Moults or 
Shedding Moon, Fish Moon, Egg and Bird Moon, Medicine 
Moon, etc., etc. 

When poplar, cottonwood, maple and willow leaves show 
their under sides, rain will follow. , 

If on the trees the leaves still hold, 
The coming winter will be cold. 

For early blossoms bear little fruit; late blossoms plenty. 

Plenty acorns or berries, plenty winter. 

Trembling aspen leaves in calm weather, change is coming. 

Scales of Pine Cones open in dry weather, close in wet. 

Corn or Indian Fodder, when dry and crisp, dry weather. 
When damp and limp, look for rain. 

Corn Husks, thick or thin, betoken cold accordingly. 

Dandelion Blossoms close before a storm or change. 

Corns, old wounds or sores itch before rain. 

Rheumatic pains increase or decrease likewise. 

Nervous, irritable persons, are likewise affected by changes. 

Salt and soap dishes sweat before rain. 

Fires burn bright or dull, according to the weather. 

Smells are more offensive before rain; less afterward. 

When pigs and critters play in mud there is no fear of 
a flood. 

Rooks tremble at approach of rain or change. 

Crows, ravens, jack-daws calling late indicate storms; 
calling early, fair weather. 

When Plover pipe and shrill and fly high, good weather. 

When woodpeckers get busy, expect rain. 



L46 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

If owls hoot at night, good weather to come. 
When robins rest high and call, good sign; if silent and 
restless and rest low, bad weather is to come. 

When the smoke of the camp-fire hangs low and does not 
ascend, expect rain or sudden change. 

When the smoke ascends straight up, fine weather. 

When animals venture not to roam. 
But hug the spots about their home, 
. 'Tis a sign that weather changes are near; 
But when they travel, and to distance go — 
They know 'twon't neither rain nor snow. 

WHAT THE BIBLE SAYS ABOUT WEATHER SIGNS 

"When ye see the south wind blow, ye say there will be 
heat; and it cometh to pass." — St. Luke 12:55. 

"When ye see a cloud rise up from the west, straitway 
ye say there cometh a shower, and so it is." — St. Luke 12:54. 

"When it is evening ye say it will be fair weather, for 
the sky is red; and in the morning it will be foul weather, 
for the sky is red and lowering." — St. Matthew 16:2-3. 

In Job 37:27-35, we are told of the signs by spreading of 
the clouds, as laid down in this Book, and of the fact that 
cattle judge by the vapor, air or noise of approaching storms. 

Pale evening sunset indicates rain. 

When birds fly low, look out for wind or rain. 

When birds fly high it is a sign of fair weather; when in- 
sects bevy abroad and fly high also. 

When snipe drum and strut, dry air, good weather. 

When starlings and crows gather together, wet weather. 

When swallows fly low and near the water, rain. 

When swans or geese fly against the wind, strong winds 
from the direction they fly. 

Wild geese or swans going to water, fine weather. 
Unusual silence before thunder or rain mieans a storm. 
Thunder in the morning, wind; at noon, rain; at evening, 
tempest changes. After much thunder expect much rain. 



COlMPLETE trappers guide 147 

Comb clouds, in the form of hen-scratches or mares-tails, 
indicate strong winds. 

Salmon or fish-like clouds, ark shape, — in east or west — 
strong winds. North or south, fine and moderate. 

Look for changes in the weather at changes of the moon. 

When birds they play in flocks together, good weather. 

Magpies, one alone, weather's bad; two together, weather's 
^ood. 

Owls scream in bad weather or at night; change. 

LIGHTNING SIGNS. With north wind, west rain. 
North and southwest, wind and rain; otherwise fair. 

WINDS OF THE DAY— wrestle and fight longer and 
stronger than those of the night. 

Rain before wind, indicates bad weather; wind before rain, 
fair weather. 

West winds are favorable to wet weather or showers. 

East winds, cold and wet together. 

South winds, bring heat and thunderstorms. 

But North winds blow them back again. 

Northwest winds, bring the finest weather. 

But when the winds are in the east, it's fine for neither 
man nor beast. 

Mackerel sky, neither wet nor dry; changeable. 

Low clouds indicate rain; high clouds, moderate winds. 

No clouds, fair weather; all clouds, storm or change. 

When birds fly high, fine weather sends insects out; and 
they rarely fly high except in light weather. 

Clear signs at sunrise or sunset — clear day, or vice versa. 

Rain before seven, quits before eleven. 

When atmosphere is clear and unclouded, when distant 
objects seem near, skies cloudless, stars very bright watch 
out for changes; especially when owls hoot, crows caw, birds 
and insects fly low, flies and ants bestir themselves to hunt 
food — expect rain. 

Changes in the weather at mid-day are usually of duration. 

Sudden changes of temperature, change of the weather. 

As one reads faces, so can weather signs be read by their 
signs. 



Sailors' Knots, Bends and Hitches 






SAFETY LINK 




The tying of knots is ac- v. 
complished by practice, " ^^ 
not explanations :: '.: 



Knots and Hitches for the Angler's Practice 

148 



CO>MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 149 

PLANTS WHICH ARE WEATHER PROPHETS 

Clover and chickweed expand their petals or leaves before 
fine weather, and close them before bad weather. 

If the down on coltsfoot, dandelion, thistle, etc., flies ofi 
in the wind expect rain; if on the dandelion it closes up, 
rain also. 

Marigolds close up before a storm; flowers and blossoms 
generally so. 

Many oak acorns, long hard winter; otherwise accordingly. 

Onion skins, thick and rough, hard winter; thin, mild. 

Pimpernel flowers, close, sign of rain. 

Sow thistles, open at night, rain next day. 

Fuller thistle (Teazle) closes before a rain. 

Wood sorrel contracts its leaves, rain is near. 

Thistledown, cotton-wood down — whisking about — windy 
weather to come. 

Endive plants open petals at 8:00 a. m., close at 4:00 p. m. 

Goats Beard opens at sunrise, closes at noon. 

Four o'Clocks, open 4:00 p. m. to 4:00 a. m. 



Halos and Coronas are rings of prismatic colors surround- 
ing the sun and moon. 

Halos are caused by the presence in the air of small crys- 
tals of ice or snow. Parhelia, or mock suns, and Paraselenae, 
or mock moons, are frequently seen where the complicated 
circles of halos intersect each other. Here bright spots occur, 
which somewhat resemble suns and moons. Coronae are simi- 
lar circles, seen most frequently around the moon. They 
are caused by the presence of a small quantity of condensed 
vapor in the air. They generally indicate changes in the 
weather. 



Anglers* and Fishermen's Knots, etc. 



/ 




The Jam knot 





TO MAKE SINGLE EVE KNOT 



DOUBLE E:yEKNOT 




Square knot 



The Jam hitch 




The Tillei' hitch 





BOWLINE KNOT 



SAFETY LINK 




SAFETY FIGURE OF EIGHT DOUBLE 5HEET BENO 

150 



CO'MTLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 151 



_STILL OTHER WEATHER SIGNS 

Dew is only deposited in comparatively clear and calm 
nights; fair weather — not in cloudy or windy weather. When 
temperature is below 32, dew freezes and frost is produced. 

Currents of air are often mistaken for light winds; at 
those times the wind proper is in the opposite direction of 
fhese currents of air. Hence, observe this fact. 

Winds in open country or plains are fairly steady and re- 
liable. As one approaches hills, valleys, woods, currents of 
air are often mistaken for winds; hence, are deceiving. 

Changeable winds indicate and precede weather changes. 

A halo around the moon indicates wet weather to come, 
and the smaller or larger circles indicate its nearness. 

When smoke hangs over in a pall and does not ascend, 
it signifies weather changes. Straight ascent, clear, fine 
weather. 

Morning dew and fog means fine weather to come. 

Northwest winds precede fine, steady weather or winds. 

Clouds moving in different directions indicate thunder 
and rain. 

Lightning in the east, sun will be red; in the west, 
showers; south rains, north winds. 

When moon's face pale or red it be, for wind and water 
sure look ye. 

If its crescent is turned to hold water, dry 'twill be. 

If the reverse, wet we'll see. 

If the sun precedes its rays, 'tis a sign of pleasant days. 

But if the ray precede the sun, then look out for change 
to come. 

Moon circles near, a storm or change to fear. 

Circles more, change galore. 

A toad or frog in a glass jar is a good weather barometer. 

Put a few stones in center of bottle, so that he can climb 
up or down. In fine weather he will come ashore; in bad 
weather or rain, take to water again. 

When bees to distance wing their flight. 
Days are warm and skies are bright. 
But when flight ends and they stay to home, 
Their own good sense forbids them roam. 



152 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

When ants their holes rebuild and strengthen, 
Rain will be sprinkled or its fall be lengthened. 
When they search for food — work early and late, 
'Twill storm and rain as sure as fate. 
When they scatter abroad — 'tis a promise fair, 
And they leave their holes open and go off by pair. 
But when they're all coming, and none do depart, 
Why, they close up their holes, bless their wise little 
hearts. 

Hornets, bees, wasps, nesting in exposed places, fair, dry 
weather; in sheltered places, moderate; on high banks, wet; 
on low banks, dry. 

When bees stay home, rain is near; when they all leave, 
expect tine weather. (Bees are seldom caught in a shower.) 

When flies and gnats cling to the ceiling or disappear, look 
for a rain. Spiders go into sheltered spots and waterproof 
their nests. 

Spiders work hard before winds or storms. If thej' build 
short, strong webs, it indicates rain and wind. If long webs 
and frail ones, fair weather. It is a sure sign of fair weather 
when they spin long new threads or webs. 

If they work, in wet weather, it will soon be dry again, 
and the prospect for immediate change is sure. 

Insect swarms bode good, fine weather. 

Fireflies flit, beetles travel together. 

The locusts' and crickets' voices are heard. 

The midges and punkies play tag for the birds. 

But when skeeters and flies begin to bother and bite, 

Seek warmth and shelter, swarm around lamps and light, 

A change in the weather will come very soon. 

Just as sure as the changes are seen in the moon. 

Fine Weather Signs: Wind Signs: 

Red sunset. Hard edge clouds. 

Early fog or dewr Rolled or jagged clouds. 

High, soft clouds. Rapid moving clouds. 
Blue, clear sky. 



COiMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 153 

Rain Signs: 

Red sunrise. Clouds from the west. 

Pale yellow sunset. Moving, gathering clouds. 

SPECIAL NOTE 

The reader must always bear in mind that ofttimes a few 
miles away it might be raining hard and where you are the 
weather is fine. 

To foretell weather in any restricted or small location is 
a difficult matter. These signs are general and not local. 

FISH WHICH FORETELL WEATHER 
CHANGES 

FISH are unusually active, rise, play and bite well before 
a rain. 

If they play in rough water, sign of calm to come. 

FROGS croak much before a rain; when they spawn in 
deep water, implies drought; in shallow edges, wet summer. 

When Glow-worms show their lamp, the air and weather 
always damp. 

Toads and snakes are always active before a rain; so are 
worms. 

When trout or bass refuse a fly, be sure a rain or storm 
is nigh. 

Bass leave shoal water before a rain. 

Eels are lively before a rain. 

The old time Leech Barometer was considered infallible. 
By placing a common leech in a bottle half filled with water 
his movements or actions indicated every change, as follows: 

In bottle neck, out of water, rain; coiled up, tempest; con- 
tinued movement, thunder and lightning; slow movement, 
cold; coming out of water, change; moving all about, strong 
wind; coiled upon bottom, fine weather. 



Rope Bends, Hitches, Slip Knots. 




^^@b 





=^ss^ 





Take a cord 

and tie them 






Useful knots and 
bends — simple 
rope hitches. 




The study of these 
knots and 
hitches is time 
profitably 
spent. 



CO>M'PLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 155 

Additional Useful Hints 

The following information will be found to be of the ut- 
most practical value, on occasion: 

Weather Indications — The color of the sky at particular 
times affords good guidance. Not only does a very rosy 
sunset presage good weather, and a ruddy sunrise bad 
weather, but there are other tints which speak with equal 
clearness and accuracy. A bright yellow sky in the even- 
ing indicates wind; a pale yellow, wdt; a neutral grey color 
constitutes a favorable sign in the evening, and an un- 
favorable one in the morning. The clouds are again full 
of meaning in themselves. If their forms are soft, un- 
defined and feathery, the weather will be fine; if their edges 
are hard, sharp and definite, it will be foul. Generally speak- 
ing, any deep, unusual hues betoken wind or rain; while the 
more quiet and delicate tints bespeak fair weather. These 
are simple maxims, and yet the British Board of Trade has 
thought fit to publish them for the use of seafaring men. 

In Kentucky and elsewhere much reliance is placed upon 
the "goose bone." It has been handed down among the 
early traditions of the state, and may be called the Ken- 
tucky weather prophet. It is to be found in nearly ever> 
Kentucky country home, and in many parts of the state the 
farmers consult it, and prepare for handling their crops 
in accordance with its readings. The prophecy of the goose 
bone does not extend beyond the year in which the goose 
was hatched and the prediction is for the three winter months 
only. Take the breast bone of a last spring's goose and 
divide it into three equal parts, and the different divisions 
will represent December, January and February. The breast 
bone of a goose is translucent, and if clear when held up 
to the light, the weather will be mild and pleasant; but if 
covered with cloud-like blots, it will be gloomy and cold; 
the heavier the blots the colder will be the weather. 

A Good Barometer — Take a common glass pickle bottle, 
wide-mouthed; fill it within three inches of the top with 
water, then take a common Florence oil flask, removing the 
straw covering and cleansing the flask thoroughly, plunge 
the neck cf the flask as far as it will go into the bottle, and 
the barometer is complete. In fine weather the water will 



Water Knots, Hitches, etc.. 




No I. — Double Fisherman's Knot. 



Easily tied and 
untied 





Quick, effective, 
simple 



No.2.— Single Water Knot, 




No. 3.— Double Water Knot. 




Diamond Hitch 




No. 4.— Another Jam Hitch. 





^ 



DPOPPERj. Knots 



156 



CO-M'PLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 157 

rise in the neck of the flask even higher t-han the mouth of 
the pickle bottle, and in wet, windy weather, it will fall with- 
in an inch of the flask. Before a heavy gale of wind, the 
water has been seen to leave the flask altogether at least eight 
hours before the gale came to its height. 



"A BIT ABOUT WOODS" 

Rock Maple 

No praise is too high for the excellent tree. As fuel, the 
rock maple is the best wood available in large quantities at the 
present moment in the northeastern states. From this tree is 
derived the sap which when boiled becomes syrup or maple 
sugar. The tree may be tapped for many consecutive years 
without injury, and a good maple sugar grove is by no means 
the least valuable asset of a farmer. The sap only flows in 
early spring when warm days and frosty nights are the rule, 
and the first sap is much richer in sugar than the last. The 
Indian always makes his paddle of rock maple when he can get 
it, for no wood equals it for that purpose. Axe-handles of rock 
maple are preferred by the lumberman for heavy chopping to 
those of ash, though they are not superior to hickory, when the 
latter can be obtained. 

White Maple 

Although closely related to rock maple, this is a m.uch in- 
ferior wood. The sap is not so sweet as that of the rock maple, 
the wood is softer and the tree smaller. It may be used as a 
fire-wood with fairly satisfactory results. 

Red Maple 

Practically similar to the white maple, and the description of 
the former will apply to it. 

Fir 

The fir of balsam is of little use as a wood, though its 
boughs make the best bed a tired backwoodsman can find. For 
this purpose the feathery foliage is plucked from the bough and 
placed in layers with the concave side downward and the butts 
toward the sleeper's feet. The wood is weak and treacherous. 



F«siiermen's and^ Angler's Specialties* 




Nets, Baskets, Waders, Capes, Fish Bags, Ertc. 



158 



COiMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 159 

breaking suddenly without warning, and the fir makes a poor 
fire even when dried. 

Willow 

In the more southern regions of the North the willow is not 
thought much of, but in Alaska and in the country of the "little 
sticks," that is to say, where the forest begins to thin out on 
account of the severity of the climate of the extreme North, the 
willow is an extremely valuable wood. It makes a fierce fire, 
burning with a clear bright flame, but owing to the small size 
of the sticks, the fire needs feeding continuously. In the North- 
west the Indians make their snowshoe frames of willow when 
they can get nothing better, leaving the wood in its natural 
round state. 



Suitable Trout Flies for April 

Black Gnat, or Midge, No. 13 — Body and feet, black; 
wings, subhyaline. 

Dark Claret Gnat, No. 13 — Body, dark claret; feet, black; 
wings, subhyaline. 

Bright Claret Gnat, No. 13 — Body, bright claret, mixed 
with red fox face; feet, ginger; wings of one sex, hyaline, 
the other, ocherous. 

Grey Gnat, No. 13 — Body, dark fox, mixed with dark 
claret; feet, grey; wings, hyaline. 

Dark Fox, No. 10 or 11 — Body and feet, dark fox, mixed 
with lemon colored mohair; v/ings, subhyaline; tail, three 
fibres of dark grey hackle. 

Poor Man's Fly, Nos. 9 and 10 — Body and feet, hare's 
ear and* yellow mixed; wings, slightly mottled grey; tail, 
the mottle of the wood duck. 

Olive Gnat, No. 13 — Body, dark olive, mixed with bright 
claret; feet, ginger: wings, hyaline. 

Red Fox, Nos. 10 and 11 — Body, fox cub face, mixed with 
yellow; feet, red (chicken red); wings, pale grey or sub- 
hyaline: tail, mottled feather wood duck. 

Bright Fox, Nos. 10 and 11 — Body and feet, brightest part 
of the fox, mixed with yellow; wings, brightest hyaline; 
tail, pale yellow. 

Black Hackled Fly, Nos. 6 and 8 — Body, orange, ribbed 
with gold tinsel; hackle black wings; tail, of the American 
partridge. 



160 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 161 

Trout Flies for May 

Black May, No. 10 — Body, black; feet, black; wings, 
hyaline. 

Cow Dung, Nos. 10 and 11 — Body and feet, brownish yel- 
low; wings, yellow-grey. 

Great Dun, Nos. 9 and 8 — Body, purple brown; feet, grey 
brown; wings, dark grey hyaline; set«, dark brown an- 
nulated with grey. 

Red Spinner, Nos. 10 and 9 — Body, bright claret, ribbed 
with gold tinsel; feet, brick color; wings, grey hyaline; setae, 
pale brick color. 

Yellow May, No. 10 — Body and feet, pale yellow; wings, 
pale yellow, mottled with brown; setae, yellow. 

Coachman — Body, peacock herl; feet, dark red hackle; 
wings, white. 

King of the Water — Same as queen of the water, with 
scarlet body instead of orange. 

Gold Spinner — Body, orange, ribbed with gold tinsel; 
feet, pale red hackle; wings, bright grey. 

Captain — Body, posterior half, peacock herl, anterior half, 
grey; white feet; red hackle; wings, grey; setae, scarlet, 
green and wood duck feathers mixed. 

Soldier — Body, crimson; feet, red hackle; wings, grey. 

Kingdom — Body, white, ringed with green; feet, peacock 
herl, and red hackle; wings, grey, mottled wnth brown. 

Black Palmer, Brown Palmer, Red Palmer and Grey Pal- 
mer, are made respectively of the different colored hackles 
that distinguish them. 

Trout Flies for June 

Hawthorn, No. 11 — Body, shining black; feet and head, 
black; wings, bright hyaline. 

Shoemaker, No. 10 — Body, ringed alternately with light 
grey and salmon; feet, dark ginger; wings, the mottled grey 
of the mallard, and the mottled of the woodcock mixed; 
setae, mottled woodcock. 

Black June, No. 10 — Body, peacock's herl; feet and wings, 
black. 

Dark Stone, Nos. 8 and 9 — Body, dark brown; feet, yel- 
low brown; wings, luteous. 



162 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

Governor, No. 10 — Body, peacock's herl; feet, dark red 
hackle; wings made of the darkest part of the bittern's wing, 
or brown hen. 

Green Drake, No. 7 — Body, white posterior, half ribbed 
with black, green-yellow mottled with brown; setae, dark 
brown. 

Brown Drake, No. 7 — Body, feet and wings, a golden yel- 
low brown; setae, dark brown. 

Raven, No. 11 — Body, feet and wings, black. 

Wren Fly, No. 9 — Body, clay-yellow; feet, made from the 
scapular feathers of the English wren or quail; wings and 
setae, mottled widgeon. 

Trout Flies for July 

Little Egg, No. 12 — Body and feet of orange and yellow, 
mohair and hare's ear mixed; wings, bright hyaline, slightly 
mottled; setx, same as wings. 

Lightning Bug, No. 10 — BaJy of equal parts, of dark 
brown, and black mixed, tipped with yellow; feet, of feathers 
from the English grouse; wings, double, the inner wing 
black, the outer wing a yellow brown. 

General Hooker, No. 9 — Body made of bright yellow and 
green, ringed alternately; feet, red hackle; wings, of the tail 
feathers of the ruffed grouse. 

Little Claret, No. 11 — Body and feet, dark claret mohair, 
slightly tinged with blue; wings, of the bittern or brown 
hen; setae, dark brown. 

Claret Fly, No. 9 — Body, dark claret; feet, black; wings 
of the brown hen. 

Fetid Green, No. 10 — Body, feet and wings, a pale blue 
green. 

Trout Flies for August and September 

Grey Cofin, Nos. 10 and 11 — Body, silver-grey mohair, 
tipped with orange silk; feet, light grey hackle wound over 
peacock's herl; wings and setae, hyaline. 

Brown Cofin, Nos. 10 and 11 — Bod)^ grey and bright 



COiM'PLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 163 

claret mohair mixed; feet, dark grey hackle wound over 
peacock's herl; wings and seta^, grey hyaline. 

The Gnats, named for April. 

Quaker, Nos, 7 and 8; for evening and moonlight — Body, 
grey wound with honey-yellow hackles; wings, made of 
feather from an oriole's wing. 

White Moth, Nos. 6 and 7; for dark nights — Body, feet 
and wings, pure white. 

The Stone Flies continue on the water until the close of 
the season. 

At this season use the small flies for day fishing, and 
the large flies for evening and night. 

General Flies Good at Any Time. 

Ibis, No. 8 — A hackle fl}^ ribbed with silver tinsel; body, 
hackle, wings and tail, scarlet. 

Peacock Palmer, No. 8 — Body, peacock herls; hackle, 
black, and red mixed. 

Grey Palmer, No. 8— Body, peacock herl; dark grey 
hackle. 

Professor, Nos. 8 and 9 — Body, bright yellow; feet, golden 
brown; wings, wood duck and mallard, dyed yellow, mixed; 
tail, scarlet ibis. 

Queen of the Water, Nos. 8 and 9 — A hackled fly; body, 
orange, ribbed with gold tinsel; hackle, chicken red: wings, 
bright mottle of the mallard. 

Grizzly King, No. 8 and 9 — A hackle fly; body, greent 
hackle, dark grey; tail, scarlet ibis; wings, mottled feather 
of the pin-tail. 

Besides the above, the following are favorite flies: 

Abbey, — Golden pheasant and red tail, brown hackle, 
dark grey wing. 

March Brown — Brown body, ribbed with yellow silk, 
brown hackle, turkey wing. 

Brown Hen — Peacock body, brown hackle, wild turkey 
wing. 

Silver Black — Black hackle, light black body, ribbed with 
silver tinsel, dark wing. 



164 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

RIFLE AND SHOTGUN ESSENTIALS 




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CO^M'PLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 165 

Oak — Orange body, ribbed with black silk, brown hackle, 
turkey wing. 

Blue Mole — Dark grey body, grey hackle, slate-colored 
wing. 

Silver Grey — Silver body, grey hackle, grey wing. 

Orange Black — Orange body, black hackle, dark wing. 

May — Yellow body, yellow hackle, yellow wing. 

Red Ant — Brown body, brown hackle, light wing. 

Montreal — Red body, red hackle, grey wing. 
Blue Professor — Red tail, blue body, brown hackle, grey 
wing. 

Cinnamon — Light brown body, brown hackle, brown wing. 

Alder — Claret body, black hackle, slate-colored wing. 

Blue Bottle — Blue body, black hackle, slate-colored wing. 

AUerton — Body, yellow, ribbed with gold; hackle, blue 
and yellow; tail of wood duck feather. 

Also the Blue Dun, Pale Green Dun, yellow spinner, jenny 
spinner, yellow sally, and, it is said, eight hundred pattern;S 
in all. The above will suffice for an assortment; the less 
used the better, in our opinion. 



Other Baits 

Helgramite or Dobson — What are known as Helgramites 
in the south and Dobsons in the north are the fully grown 
larvae and pupae of several aquatic species in the family 
Sialina. Their feeding ground is chiefly in sluggish rivers. 
They are rare in mountain streams or head springs. They 
will be found in the shallow parts of the stream, under stones 
or submerged driftwood, or buried in the soft mud along its 
banks. 

Fish Roe — Tie a quantity, the bulk of a marble, in a bit 
of mosquito netting, or secure it to the hook with woolen 
threads. It can be preserved for a year in equal parts of 
salt and saltpetre. Cork tight in a bottle, and keep in a 
cool place. Fresh roe is the best. 

Frogs — Izaak Walton says: "Put your hook through the 
mouth, and out of his gills, and then with a fine needle and 
silk sew the upper part of his leg, with only one stitch, to the 



166 COiMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

arming wire of the hook, and in so doing use him as 
though you loved him." 

To Scour Angle Worms — Place them in sand, and they 
will clean themselves of earth, and become fresh and red. 
Raw beef is a good substitute, when worms cannot 'be got. 

To Keep Dead Minnows Fresh — Pack in wet sawdust and 
salt or brine, adding a little saltpetre. Coarse straw damp- 
ened is also a good packing. 

Live Minnows — Have made a large bucket, holding say 
four gallons, with inside bucket small enough to have plenty 
of play and thoroughly perforated. Place a large piece of 
ice on top of the inside bucket every ten or fifteen minutes, 
churn the inside bucket up and down to aerate the water. 
If the inside bucket is oval on the bottom, it is much better 
than if it has a flat bottom, as the car or boat will keep 
the bucket in motion. In this bucket minnows have been 
transported two hundred miles. 

To Keep Shrimp — Put them clean and solid into a box or 
basket, the latter preferred, and place it on the ice in a 
refrigerator. We have tried covering with seaweed, mixing 
with sawdust, meal, etc., but for a handy home method noth- 
ing works better for keeping shrimp alive twenty-four hours 
— a week in fact — than the ice chest. If you are going to 
carry them some distance before using, it is well to pack 
the box or basket in ice. If you are located near the water, 
the best way of all is to have a tight covered basket or a 
box, full of small holes, so as to allow a free circulation oi 
water, and with the live shrimp therein, anchor it ofif shore. 
The Guilford Club, during the smelting season, have always 
adopted the latter method at Black Rock with perfect suc- 
cess, with the simple difference that the shrimp basket was 
secured inside a large floating lobster car, and they never 
were troubled with dead bait, but always found them alive 
and kicking when wanted. 

Artificial Angle Worms — A St. Louis firm has patented 
an imitation earth-worm, made of India rubber or other 
flexible material, to be substituted for the live angle worm. 
It exactly resembles the natural squirmer in color, and cer- 
tainly possesses the advantages of cleanliness for use. It 
cannot be taken off the hook by nibbles, and needs no 
preparatory "scouring." 



COiM'PLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 167 

HINTS, POINTERS, KINKS AND SNARLS 
Invaluable Facts and Information 

Swimming of a Horse — When swimming a horse never 
touch the bridle, as a horse is easily drowned when checkea 
up or otherwise interfered with about the head. Sit well 
back and guide the horse with the hand, gently slapping him 
on eil!^er side as required; thus a horse will swim a mile or 
more with a full-grown man on his back, and suffer but 
little. Or, better still, throw yourself from the horse on 
the down stream side, and with the right hand grasping the 
mane at the withers, aid the progress of the horse with the 
other and feet as in swimming. 

To Subdue a Horse — Take a cor4 about the size of a 
common bed-cord, put it in the mouth of the horse like a 
bit, and tie it tightly on the animal's head, pass his left ear 
under the string, not painfully tight, but tight enough to 
keep the ear down and the cord in its place. This done, 
pat the horse gently on the side of the head and command 
him to follow. He will be found perfectly subdued and 
obedient, the more submissive if he has not been habitually 
treated cruelly or outrageously. This plan is practiced in 
Mexico and South America. 

To Tell a Horse's Age — The colt is born with twelve 
grinders; when four front teeth have made their appearance, 
the colt is twelve days old, and when the next four come 
forth, it is four weeks old. When the corner teeth appear, 
the colt is eight months old; when the latter have attained 
to the height of the front teeth, it is one year old. The two- 
year-old colt has the kernel (the substance in the middle of 
the tooth's crown) ground out in all the front teeth. In the 
third year the middle front teeth are 'being shifted, and when 
three years old these are substituted by the horse teeth. 
The next four teeth are shifted in the fourth year, and the 
corner teeth in the fifth. At six years the kernel is worn 
out of the lower middle front teeth, and the bridle teeth 
have not attained to their full growth. At seven years, a 
hook has been formed in the corner teeth of the upper jaw, 
the kernel of the next at the middle is worn out, and the 
bridle teeth begin to wear off. At eight years the kernel is 



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168 



COiMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 169 

worn out of the lower front teeth, and begins to decrease 
in the middle upper front. In the ninth year the kernel has 
wholly disappeared from the upper middle front teeth; the 
hook on the corner has increased in size, and the bridle 
teeth lose their points. In the tenth year, the kernel is worn 
out of the teeth next to the middle front of the upper jaw, 
and in the eleventh year the kernel has entirely vanished 
froni the corner teeth of the same jaw. At twelve years 
old, the crown of all the front teeth in the lower jaw has 
become triangular, and the bridle teeth are much worn 
down. As the horse advances in age the gums shrink away 
from the teeth, which consequently receive a long narrow 
appearance, and the kernels become darkish points. Grey 
increases in the forehead and over the eyes, and the chin 
assumes the form of an angle. 

Sheddin.g Mane — The shedding of hair from a horse's mane 
and tail can be prevented by washing the parts affected a 
few times in carbolic soapsuds. Or a wash made of lard oil 
one pint and aqua ammonia one gill, well mixed and rubbed 
in, will prevent the falling of the hair. 

Saddle Marks — White marks caused by the friction of the 
saddle may sometimes be removed from a horse by applying, 
morning and night, an ointment made of lard and tincture 
of cantharides or Spanish fly, made in the proportion of a 
few drops of the latter to an ounce of the former. 

Ticks on Horses — Any kind of oil will make the tick let 
go of its own accord, if well rubbed into the hair of the ani- 
mal. The theory is that the oil fills the pores of the skin 
and deprives the tick of air to breathe. 

Fleas and Vermin — Nothing better to keep them off than 
Persian insect powder (pyrethrum roseum) recommended by 
British Medical Gazette and for sale at druggists' and rat 
poison stores. A solution can also be made. 

New Food for Horses — This is composed of two quarts 
of oats, one of bran and half a pint of flax seed. The oats 
are first placed in the stable bucket, over which is placed the 
linseed; add boiling water, then the bran, covering the mix- 
ture with an old rug and allowing it thus to rest for five 
hours; then stir the mass well up. The bran absorbs while 
retaining the vapor, and the linseed binds the oats and bran 
together; a greater quantity of flax seed would make the 



170 COiMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE ' 

preparation too oily and less relished. One feed per day is 
sufficient; it is easily digested, and is especially adapted to 
young animals. 

To Extricate a Mired Animal — The usual method is to 
fasten a rope around the animal's horns or neck, and while 
this is pulled by some of the assistants, others place rails 
beneath the body of the animal for the purpose of lifting it 
out of the hole. This plan is sometimes effective, but it often 
is not, and at best it is a slow, clumsy and laborious method. 
The materials needed for the method here referred to are 
all that are required for a much better one. This is very 
simple, and two men can operate it, and at a pinch, even 
one man may succeed with it. A strong stake or an iron 
bar is driven into the solid ground at a distance of twenty- 
five feet or more from the mired animal. Two short rails, 
about nine feet long, are tied together near the ends, so that 
they can be spread apart in the form of a pair of shears, 
for hoisting. A long rope is fastened around the horns or 
neck of the animal, with such a knot that the loop cannot 
be drawn tight enough to do any injury. The rope is cast 
over the ends of the rails as they are set up upon the edge 
of the solid ground, and carried to the stake or crow-bar 
be3^ond. The end of the rope is fastened to a stout hand- 
spike, leaving about a foot of the end of it free. This end 
is laid against the bar or stake, and the other end is moved 
around it so that the rope is wound upon it, drawing it up 
and with it drawing the animal out of the mire. The rope 
being held up to the tied rails, tends to lift the animal and 
make its extrication very easy. — American Agriculturist. 

Rawhide Straps and Halters — Take the skin of cow, calf, 
colt, horse or other animal, cut it into narrow strips, and 
shave off the hair with a sharp knife before the kitchen fire, 
or in your workshop on stormy days and evenings. You 
may make them soft by rubbing. A rawhide halter strap 
an inch wide will hold a horse better and last longer than an 
inch rope. It is stronger than hoop-iron and more durable, 
and may be used to hoop dry casks and boxes, and for hinges. 
Try it on a broken thill, or any wood work that has been 
split. Put it on wet and nail fast. Thin skins make the best 
to use it in its natural state. For other purposes it may 'be 
dressed. 



COiM'PLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 171 

Rawhide Lariat or Lasso — Take a green bull hide, lay it 
flat on a smooth floor, cut off the legs and irregular pieces 
with a sharp knife until you 'bring it to an oblong or oval 
shape, then commence at the outer edge and cut a strip an 
inch wide or more, following the circular form until you have 
secured the required length, which should be fifty feet, then 
wind it on two posts, trees, or stakes, drawing it as tight as 
pos'sible so as to stretch it. Then roll it foot by foot be- 
tween two small boards and make it pliable, and then boil it 
in oil to keep it so, otherwise it will become very hard and 
dry when it gets wet. Then make a slip-noose at the end, 
and your lariat is complete. To ensure a good, free run- 
ing noose, bend the end on over an eye Or iron ring three- 
fourths of an inch in diameter. A lariat made of strips of 
buckskin braided and oiled it very serviceable. 

To Tote, Pack or Carry a Deer — 1. In dragging the car- 
cass of a deer to camp, never draw it by the hind legs. This 
is against the grain of the hair making the load heavy and 
damaging the meat. If a sapling is handy, sling the deer to 
it with its feet tied in pairs, and the nose secured to the pole, 
so that it will not swing and sling blood all over. 

2. Cut off the deer's head, skin his legs down to his knees 
and hams, cut off the feet and shin-'bones, tie the skin of 
each fore-leg to that of a hind-leg on the opposite side, put 
your arms through, and pack him knapsack-fashion. 

3. First, see that the deer is well bled; next, cut entirely 
around the arms, working your knife carefully well inward 
until the intestines are clear of all connection with the flesh 
through the hams. Cut slits in the hind legs for the gam- 
brel; then cut three poles about twelve feet long and four 
inches in diameter at large end, leaving a crotch at the end 
of two, and an inch or so of a small limb about a foot from 
the top end of the third; thrust the end up to limb through 
the cut in the legs, and place the foot of this pole against 
some firm object to keep it from slipping back, and then place 
the crotched end of the two poles over the leg, and under 
the pole at the gambrel, setting the poles so that you can 
lift on the bottom of each toward the center, crowding 
downward on the foot of each pole till your deer swings 
clear of the ground. Commence at a point on the belly 
about eight inches below where the hams press together; 



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172 



CO)MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 173 

cut only through the skin downward through the brisket 
and neck to under jaw, also from the hock of each fore- 
leg on the inside to the brisket, meeting the downward cut; 
skin the fore-legs, neck and body to the fifth rib, but no 
farther, and then open and take out intestines, cutting brisket 
well open to allow all to fall out clear from body, and then 
divide the body at the fifth rib, detaching the fore-quarters 
entirely; cut the large strips of meat from the shoulder 
blcfdes, ri'bs and back of the fore-quarters, discarding the 
remainder. You have now hanging the hind-quarters with 
the skin attached; tie the skin closely with a cord just where 
it leaves the meat, and sto waway the pieces from the fore- 
quarters on the inside the ribs of the hind-quarters. Now, 
if weather permits, leave hanging till the blood drains out 
and body is cold, and as much longer as may be convenient, 
only taking the precaution to hang over the whole a few 
branches of some evergreen to keep off the storms. Provide 
yourself with a packing strap and bag, take down the quar- 
ters, pull the neck end of skin back between the legs, draw 
down the tail and with a cord tie together, while the skin 
from the fore-legs should be brought around the body and 
tied at the small of the back, unjoint the legs just below the 
gam'brel and you have a compact, clean bundle that in- 
cludes nearly all there is of value, and in such shape that 
the meat is entirely covered with the skin, and with a pack- 
ing strap can be carried quite handily. If found too heavy 
with the meat inside, put this in your packing bag and 
make another journey. The hind-quarters are now in shape 
to stand quite a change in weather, and can be transported 
without injury, while the choice pieces of the fore-quarters 
not used in camp can be stowed away inside and kept clean 
and palatable. A deer cannot be nicely dressed without 
being hung up a sufficient time to allow the blood to drain 
out and with the three poles mentioned a man that can 
carry seventy-five pounds can raise three hundred, although 
with a very large animal it may be necessary to use two 
sets of the poles with the crotches, the first set shorter, to 
get the body partly up before setting those long enough for 
the last raise. 

To Waterproof Ten.ts and Garments — Dissolve paraffin© 
in naphtha or benzine, and soak thoroughly. 



174 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

2. Take half a pound of sugar or sugar of lead and half 
a pound of powdered alum, dissolve them in a bucket of" 
rain water and pour off into another vessel and steep your 
tent in it, letting it -soak thoroughly. If the quantity is not 
sufficient increase in same proportion. Hang the article 
up to dry, but do not wring it. 

Waterproof for Boots — Six ounces mutton suet, six 
ounces beeswax, four ounces rosin, and a pint of linseed 
oil; melt the three first ingredients together and add the last. 
Apply on uppers and soles of boots. 

2. Six parts tallow, two parts beeswax, one part rosin, 
one pint castor oil and two parts caoutchouc. When melted 
together, apply as warm as the leather will permit, with a 
brush. 

3. Nantucket fishermen, when they want to make their 
boots waterproof, just pour half a gallon of boiled linseed 
oil into them, and let it stay there for a week. 

4. Take one-half pound of shoemaker's dubbing, one- 
half linseed oil, one-half pint strong solution of' India rub- 
ber. Dissolve the whole with a gentle heat (it is very in- 
flammable), and apply with an ordinary blacking brush. One 
application will insure dry feet for several months. 

5. ]\Ielt together one pound tallow, half an ounce neats- 
foot oil, one ounce rosin, one-half ounce lamp-black, a table- 
spOonful of linseed oil. Should b? rubbed in repeatedly, the 
boots or other articles to be warmed. It is said to bef 
perfectly waterproof and not injurious to the leather. 

6. In a pint of best winter-strained lard oil, dissolve a 
piece of paraffine the size of a hickory nut, aiding the solu- 
tion with a gentle heat, say 100 or 140 degrees Fahrenheit. 
The readiest way to get pure paraffine is to take a piece 
of paraffine candle. Rub this solution on your boots about 
once a month; they can.be blackened in the meantime. If 
the oil should make the leather too stiff, decrease the pro- 
portion of paraffine, and vice versa. 

7. Take neatsfoot oil, one and one-half pints; beeswax, 
one ounce; spirits of turpentine, four ounces; and stir until 
cold. Spread and rub this composition over the leather 
while it is damp; leather will absorb oil and grease better 
when damp than when dry. For the soles, take pine tar 
and rub it in before the fire until the soles will absorb no 



CO>MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 175 

more. Three or four applications will be needed. Th,e 
durability of the soles will be much increased. 

8. Take one pint of drying oil, two ounces of yellow 
wax, two ounces spirits of turpentine, and one ounce of 
Burgundy pitch — the hard materials melted over a slow fire, 
and the others added and well mixed. Rub this mixture 
on the boots at a distance from the fire, repeatedly, until 
the leather is saturated. Common black pitch was found 
equal to the Burgundy, and rather better. It is probable 
that other variations might be made without detriment, pro- 
vided a proper consistency is maintained in the mixture of 
the oils, wax and pitch. The boots do better to dry three 
or four weeks after being treated with the composition, 
than to use them while it is fresh. 

9. Take a quarter of a pound of beef and mutton suet, 
a teaspoonful of lard, half pint of neatsfoot oil, one ounce 
of beeswax, half an ounce of Burgundy pitch, and a half 
ounce of turp'entine. Melt up the suet, the lard, the pitcli 
and the beeswax in a pot, stir in the oil, and when off the 
fire, and cooling a little, put in the turpentine. If you 
want to be elegant, add a half box of blacking to give it a 
color. Warm the compound and paint the boots, upper and 
soles. It makes a boot quite water tight, and salt water 
cannot phase it. 

10. India rubber cut fine, one ounce put in a pint of 
petroleum (raw) or Seneca oil. Let stand a week, and then 
apply with brush until the leather is saturated. 

Rubber Cement — One-half pound bi-sulphate of carbon; 
three handsful of gutta percha; put in a wide-mouthed bot- 
tle; shake frequently; at the end of two weeks strain through 
a cloth, return to bottle and cork tightly, for reasons that 
' will be obvious. To apply, first dry the article, then smear 
the cement on and allow it to evaporate, before bringing 
edges together. After it has become light-colored in spots, 
warm and bring edges perfectly together; stand away for 
awhile and the job is complete, 

3. Four ounces of pure India rubber, one-eighth of an 
ounce powdered asphaltum, put together in a tin can, then 
add about six times the quantity of benzine, 'let it stand 
three or four days, then take a stick and work it over, then 
add benzine and stir it well until you have, it about the con- 



176 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



Things that Can Be Made in Camp. 





W" ,1,1! 
Vise Made from Sapling, 




How Made. 




Permanent Game Rack 



Temporary Game Rack 




Gun, Rifle and Rod Rack. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 177 

sistency of honey; then it is ready for use. It should be 
covered as tight as possible while dissolving, and afterward. 
To use it, scrape the polish from the rubber, then apply the 
cement to the place to be mended, and also to a piece of 
rubber to be used as a patch. Dry half an hour, and apply 
another coat, then, after another half hour, press the patch 
into the place over the break. Like all other preparations 
containing benzine, it must be kept away from fires, as it 
is as explosive as burning fluid. 

3. Cut virgin or native India rubber with a wet knife 
into the thinnest possible slices, and with shears divide these 
into threads as fine as fine yarn. Put a small quantity of 
the shreds (say one-tenth or less of the capacity of the 
bottle) into a wide-mouthed bottle, and fill it three-quarters 
full of benzine of good quality, perfectly free from oil. 
The rubber will swell up almost immediately, and in a 
few days, especially if often shaken, assumes the consistency 
of honey. If it inclines to remain in undissolved masses, 
more benzine must be added; but if too thin and watery, 
it needs more rubber. A piece of solid rubber the size of 
a walnut will make a pint of the cement. This cement dries 
in a few minutes, and by using three coats in the usual 
manner, will unite leather straps, patches, rubber soles, 
backs of boots, etc., with exceeding firmness. The India 
rubber, unvulcanized, can be obtained at most large stores 
where rubber goods are sold, and at some drug stores. 

To Cook Mushrooms — Peel both tops and stems, put in 
a stew-pan, with an ounce of butter and a pinch or two of 
salt to each pound, and serve up hot. This will answer 
to eat with fish, flesh and fowl. To fry them — peel, dip in 
egg and roll in cracker dust, season, and fry with oysters. 

To Roast a Wild Turkey^Having picked and cleaned a 
turkey, put up two short forked stakes pretty close to the 
fire; cut a thin straight stick with which split the turkey; 
lay the ends of the stick in the crotches of the uprights, 
turn the bird slowly before the fire. A pan should be placed 
underneath to catch the gravy and dripping, with which 
baste the turkey from time to time. Make the basting of a 
little butter or lard, flour, salt and water. 

To Bake Small Birds — Quail, woodcock, pigeon, snipe, 
prairie fowl, etc., should be neithfer picked nor drawn. 



178 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



CAMP LIKES AND COOKING OUTFIT 




For Cooking- and Lighting Inside a Tent 



COiMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 179 

Wet the feathers thoroughly; make a hole in the coals, and 
put in the wet bird. Cover well with coals and hot ashes, 
to exclude air and prevent burning. When cooked, the 
skin and feathers will peel off bodily, leaving the well- 
cooked meat unmarred. 

To Bake a Fish — Cover the fish undrawn, with clay two 
inches thick, and throw it into the hottest of the fire. The 
clay hardens almost instantly, and the nsh in its rough oven 
bakes through and through, retaining also its juices. The 
clay is then poked out of the fire, cooled with a dash of 
water, and a sharp stroke with a stick separates it from the 
fish. The fish's skin peels off with the clay and the dish 
is ready. 

Having cleaned, split and seasoned the fish, pin it to a 
board by wooden pegs; then prop the whole up before a 
smart hot fire of hot coals. The fish is very quickly baked 
brown. 

Wrap the fish evenly in thin buttered tissue paper, and 
bury this in some wet brown wrapping paper, and then bake 
as in No. 1. 

Venison Steak- — Cut your meat down the grain, an inch 
thick, place it on the fork of a stick, and turn it smartly 
over a hot fire of coals. 

Venison Stew — A venison stew, or a miscellaneous stew 
is made by cutting the breasts of fowl and the flesh of the 
animal into chunks; take sliced potatoes, slices of bread 
or crackers, sliced onions, and salt pork and place them in 
alternate layers, seasoning with salt and pepper between 
each. Fill up even to the top of the mess with water and 
boil till the potatoes are done. 

To Cook a Head with the Hair On — The head of a deer, 
or any large animal, with the hide on, is put into a hole in 
the ground sufficiently large to hold the head and a lot of 
smooth stones weighing two or three pounds apiece, and 
deep enough to sink them a foot below the surface. Make 
a hot fire in the hole, and another near by; heat the rocks 
as hot as they can be heated without cracking. Then, 
when both the earth oven and stones are hot, clean the fire 
out of the hole, put in a layer of stones, then the head neck 
down, and then the rest of the stones around and over the 
head; throw in a lot of mint, sweet weed (grass or leaves 



180 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

will 4o), cover all with earth well packed down; let it 
remain all night, and in the morning eat it. Any portion 
of the carcass wrapped in a raw hide can be cooked in the 
same way. 

Mountain Hotch-Potch — Take the best part of a neck of 
venison, or mountain sheep is better, cut it small, bones 
and all, and boil it until thoroughly well done, or until the 
meat separates from the bones. Then remove the bones 
and put in a quantity of green peas and broad beans at dis- 
cretion not to make the hotch-potch too thick; add a flavor 
of onions and parsley, together with a fair proportion of 
carrots, turnips, and kale or other cabbage, taking care to 
make the combination thick enough, but not so thick as 
to deprive it of the character of a soup and convert it into 
a pottage and boil the whole for eight or nine hours. If 
you boil it for twelve, or even twenty hours, it will be none 
the worse, hot all the better. If there be any left, boil it 
up again on the next day and it will be better than on the 
first. You can get spme vegetables at the ranches. 



HINTS ON THE VALUE OF SKINS. 

The skins of animals trapped are always valued higher 
than those shot, as shot not only makes holes, but frequently 
plow along the skin, making furrows as well as shaving 
ofiE-.the fur. To realize the utmost for skins they must be 
taken care of, and also cleansed and prepared properly. New- 
house gives these rules, derived from experience: 

1. Be careful to visit your traps often enough, so that 
the skin will not have time to get tainted. 

2. As soon as possible after an animal is dead and dry 
attend to the skinning and curing. 

3. Scrape ofif all superfluous flesh and fat, and be careful 
not to go so deep as to cut the fibre of the skin. 

4. Never dry a skin by the fire or in the sun, but in a cool, 
shady place, sheltered from rain. If you use a barn door 
for a stretcher (as boys sometimes do), nail the skin on the 
inside of the door. 

5. Never use "preparations" of any kind in curing skins, 
nor even wash them in water, but simply stretch and dry 
them as taken from the animal. 



COiMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 181 

"MAKE LIFE WORTH LIVING" 

Civilization has made such rapid progress during the last 
fifty years, within the boundaries of the United States and 
"the forest primeval" has been so invaded by the foot of 
man, and the varieties of large game so encroached upon 
and driven into the mountain fastnesses, that hunting, as a 
profession or as a means of livelihood, has become an 
uncertain quantity. But man, even with his luxurious envi- 
ronments of the nineteenth century, feels the returning im- 
pulses of his barbarous ancestors, and longs once more to 
join in the chase, to capture, slay and devour. 

Whatever pangs of conscience may arise from these 
destructive tendencies, he quiets by the assurance that he 
does this for the benefit of his health, or for needed recrea- 
tion; and we, who have so often yielded to these impulses, 
are willing to grant that his excuse is far from lacking the 
foundations of truth. 

There is probably no exercise or method of recreation 
more calculated to recuperate the nervous energies, which 
have become jaded from worry and care, or a long-continued 
pressure of professional labor, than to lay aside all thought 
of business, flee to the mountain wilds, to the quiet lake, 
to the salt sea, or to the babbling brook, and live with 
nature; to camp under the blue sky, to breathe the sweet, 
pure air of heaven; hunt and fish, as did our forefathers. 

Worry is the rust that corrodes the body and soul. 
Thousands and tens of thousands of men and women are 
dying from worr}^ over the affairs connected with the every- 
day work of life. Thousands of cases of heart disease, 
brain trouble, nervous disorders, dyspepsia, insomnia, and 
the breaking down of the various organs of the body may 
be traced directly to the interminable grinding in this modern 
mill of business. 

To all such 1 would say, go away for awhile from your 
elegant homes, where you have been so long pampered 
in the lap of luxurious ease; go into the wilds, live in camp, 
forget your care by allowing the -mind to indulge in new 
channels of thought, and your muscles and nerve-centers 
to become accustomed to new habits of exercise. When 
will the world arrive at that state of civilization when men 



182 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

will acknowledge, by their actions, that life is worth living? 
Why should we sacrifice the best and most precious years 
of our lives on the altar of Mammon? 

Life is worth living only when we are in a condition 
to enjoy it. We are in a condition to enjoy existence only 
when the body glows with health. We live, in reality, 
only when digestion is good, when the circulation is free, 
and when the blood, in healthful pulsations, goes bounding 
to the brain, awakening into activity all the nobler and finer 
instincts, taking on the natural man and soon dropping the 
artificial one which the restraining influences of city life has 
abnormally developed in us. 

We love to mingle instead of avoid each other, to fra- 
ternalize, and mind and memory takes us back to old scenes 
and experiences of boyhood days and pleasures, forgetting 
cares and responsibilities and join the circle, dear to every 
hunter's heart, that gathers around the evening camp-fire. 
Here we listen to the bear story, the Indian tale, recount 
the adventures of the day and plan for greater deeds to be 
performed on the morrow. But a better thing than this is, 
to go to bed, to sleep, and "knit up the ravelled sleeve of 
care." "Balmy slumber, tired nature's sweet restorer." it is 
seldom, in this hurrying age, that we get too much of it. 



CAMP HYGIENE— MEDICINE, SURGERY 

Colds and Headaches — Take of Norwood's tincture ver- 
atrum one drop on a small lump of sugar every two hours, 
and a three-quarter quinine pill every three hours. This 
prescription is recommended by Dr. N. Rowe, of the Chi- 
cago Field. 

2. Dissolve fifteen or twenty grains of chloral in very 
little water, and with the tip of a finger rub it upon the seat 
of pain until you can sensibly feel the 'burning and the skin 
is reddened. 

Fever Diet — When a patient will not take beef tea in the 
ordinary form, freeze it, and administer in small lumps. In 
this way it forms a most palatable article of diet. 

Diarrhoea and Dysentery — An old army prescription used 
in the Mexican war is a mixture of equal parts of capsicum 



COiMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 183 

(red pepper), Hoffman's anodyne camphor and peppermint, 
with one-half the proportion of laudanum. Take twenty 
drops in a tablespoonful of water every hour until cured. 

Croup — Croup can be cured in one minute, and the remedy 
is simply alum and sugar. The way to accomplish this is 
to take a knife or grater and shave off in small particles 
about a teaspoonful of alum; then mix it with twice its 
quantity of sugar, to make it palatable, and administer it as 
quickly as possible. Almost instantaneous relief will follow. 

Burns — Charcoal has been discovered to be a cure for 
burns. By laying a piece of cold charcoal upon the burn 
the pain subsides immediately. By leaving the . charcoal 
on one hour the wound is healed, as has been demonstrated 
on several occasions. 

Cure for Wounds — As soon as a punctured wound is in- 
flicted, get a light stick (a knife or file handle will do) 
and commence to tap gently on the wound. Do not stop 
for the hurt, but continue until it bleeds freely and becomes 
perfectly numb. When this -point is reached, you are safe; 
and all that is then necessary is to protect it from dirt. 
Do not stop short of the bleeding and the numbness, and 
do not on any account close the opening with plaster. 
Nothing more than a little simple cerate on a clean cloth 
is necessary. 

Fish Bone in Throat — If you get a fish bone in your 
throat, fast there, swallow an egg^ raw; it will be sure to 
carry down a bone easily and certainly. 

Chilblains — Cut up two white turnips, without paring, 
into thin slices; put the slices into a tin cup with three 
large spoonfuls of best lard; let it simmer slowly for two 
hours, then mash this through a sieve; when cold, spread it 
on a soft linen cloth, and apply to the chilblain at night. 

Snake Bites — Apply raw sliced onions to the wounded 
parts. 

For rattle-snake bite, make the patient swallow large 
and repeated doses of olive oil, until a quart is swallowed; 
ru'b mercurial ointment into the affected part freely. 

Rattle-snake Bites — The following is used by soldiers 
on the plains, and is said to be efficacious; Iodide of potas- 
sium, four grains; corrosive sublimate, two grains; bromine, 
five drachms. Ten drops, diluted with" a tablespoonful or 



184 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

two of brandy, wine, or whiskey, is the dose, to be repeated, 
if necessary. Keep in a well-stoppered phial. 

Bites of Rabid Animals — ^lix thoroughly two tablespoon- 
fuls chloride of lime with a half pint of fresh water and 
bathe the wound almost without cessation until the physi- 
cian arrives, or until the poison is neutralized. 

Poisons — An antidote for corrosive sublimate is the white 
of two eggs; it will neutralize the poison and change the 
effect to that of a dose of calomel. 

If a person swallows any poison whatever, or has fallen 
into convulsions from having overloaded the stomach, an. 
instantaneous remedy, more efficient and applicable in a 
larger number of cases than half a dozen medicines we 
can now think of, is a heaping teaspoonful of common salt, 
and as much ground mustard, stirred rapidly in a teacup 
of water, warm or cold, and swallowed instantly. It is 
scarcely dowm before it begins to come up, bringing with 
it the remaining contents of the stomach; and lest there be 
any remnant of a poison, however small, let the white of 
an egg, or a teacup of strong coffee, be swallowed as soon 
as the stomach is quiet; because these very common articles 
nullify a larger number of virulent poisons than any medi-. 
cines in the shops. 

Poison Ivy or Sumac — Sometimes wet salt or pork brine 
bound on the poison spots and kept wet will soon dry them 
up. Very strong ammonia applied frequently as soon as 
the poison appears is an excellent remedy. This remedy 
is sometimes severe in its effects, acting as a caustic on 
the poison spots after the poison is killed. When am- 
monia fails, powdered gum myrrh, shaken up in sweet 
oil and used three times a day as a wash, will be found an 
almost unfailing remedy. When obtainable, it is the best 
to apply at first. 

2. The last remedy has 'been used successfully as a 
preventive, by liberally anointing the skin before going 
into the woods, always allowing the remedy to dry on the 
skin. 

3. Tincture lobelia (equal parts water) or sugar of lead, 
or Pond's extract (Hamamelis). Think the "Hamamelis" the 
best; very cooling and allays the itching, etc. Ivy poison 
has a "run" of about one week, no matter what you apply. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 185 

4. Carbolic acid and glycerine, in the proportion of 
about one part of the acid to three of glycerine, which is 
also good for all kinds of insect bites, burns, cuts, bruises, 
etc. 

5. Apply water as hot as can be borne to the part 
affected. 

Disinfectants — If onions are sliced and kept in a sick 
room they will absorb all the atmospheric poison. They 
should be changed every hour. In the room of a small-pox 
patient they blister and decompose very rapidly, but will 
prevent the spread of the disease. 

2. One pound of green copperas, costing seven cents, 
dissolved in one quart of water, and poured down a water- 
closet, will effectually concentrate and destroy the foulest 
smells. On board ships and steamboats, about hotels and 
other public places, there is nothing so nice to purify the 
air. Simply green copperas dissolved in anything will render 
a hospital or other places for the sick free from unpleasant 
smells. 



Sleeping in a Cold Room — People who come in from a 
long period of out-door camping are almost certain to catch 
cold in a house when they return, because, having been 
accustomed to sleeping in the open air, they almost invari- 
ably leave their windows open. Many persons who went 
to bed w^ell, are surprised to wake up in the morning with 
inflammation of the lungs, solely because they have hoisted 
the windows for ventilation. Hall's Journal of Health says 
that robust persons may safely sleep in a temperature of 
forty or under, but the old, the infant, and the frail should 
never sleep in a room where the atmosphere is much under 
fifty degrees Fahrenheit. 

If there is some fire in the room all night the window 
may be opened an inch. It is safer to sleep in bad air 
all night, with a temperature over fifty, than in a pure air 
with the temperature under forty. The bad air may sicken 
you, but cannot kill you; the cold air can and does kill 
very often. 



Rubber specialties for Camp Uses 





lO-Rubber Bath Tub. 





1— Sportsman's Raio 2— Cape , 9— Rubber Wash 

Cape (Featherweight) Packed, Basin. 



13— Poncho Rubber 
Blanket. 




4-5— Rubber and Canoe Tumbler. 




6— :tlubber Toilet 12-SpQrtsman's Inflated Seat. 




17 -Rubber Toilet 
Case. 





16— Canoe Seat. 



3— Camp Bath Tub. 






7— Rubber „ 14— Rubber 

Bucket Closed.V Tobacco Pouch 




^ftttbber Bucket Open, 



186 



15— Rubber Ration Bftg. 



COlMPLETE trappers guide 187 



FIRST AID TO INJURED IN CAMP 

Drowning — Loosen clothing. 2. Place patient face down 
with head and shoulders low. 2. With finger clear mouth 
of foreign substances. 4. Press firmly on back and sides 
of chest to expel water. 5. Draw tongue well out of mouth 
and keep it so by tying string over it and under lower jaw. 
6r Turn patient on back with tightly rolled coat under shoul- 
ders. 7. Kneel at patient's head, grasp arms below elbows 
and draw them above patient's head, making forearms touch 
ground. 8. Push the arms forward, cross them over the 
lower part of chest and press firmly. 9. Repeat these move- 
ments eighteen times a minute. 10. Every two minutes 
turn patient on face and press firmly on back and sides of 
chest to expel water. 11. Others should replace wet clothes 
with dry ones a.AA make hot applications. 12. Continue 
thp«^e measures at least two hours. 13. When patient begins 
to breathe give stimulant, hot drinks, and rub legs upward, 
vigorously. 

Burns and Scalds — Cover with Cooking Soda and lay wet 
CAOths over it. White of Eggs and Olive Oil. Olive or Lin- 
seed Oil, plain, or mixed with Chalk and Whiting. 

Lightning — Dash cold water over person struck. 

Sunstroke — Remove patient to shady place, apply ice to 
head and neck, sponge body with cold water. 

Mad Dog or Snake Bite — Tie hand above wound and 
burn with iron at white heat; or cut out wound, making it 
bleed freely, and then apply nitric acid. 

Venomous Insect Stings, etc. — Apply weak Ammonia, Oil, 
Salt water or Iodine. 

Fainting — Place flat on back; allow fresh air, and 
sprinkle with water. 

Tests of Death — Hold mirror to mouth; if living moist- 
ure will gather. Push pin into flesh; if dead the hole will 
remain: if alive it will close up. 

Cinders in the Eye — Roll soft paper up like a lamp lighter 
and wet the tip to remove, or use a medicine dropper to 
draw it out. Rub the other eye. 



188 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



SPECIAL POISONS AND ANTIDOTES 

Remove patient where medical skill can be obtained. If 
you are not competent to handle it send for such service 
post haste. 

Second — Induce vomiting by tickling throat with feather 
or finger; drinking hot water or strong mustard and water. 
Swallow sweet oil or whites of eggs. 

Acids and antidotes for Alkalies, and vice versa: 

Acids — Muriatic, Oxalic, Acetic, Sulphuric (Oil of Vit- 
triol), Nitric (Aqua Fortis). Soap-suds, magnesia, lime water. 

Prussic Acid — Ammonia in water. Dash water in face. 

Carbolic Acid — Flour and water, mucilaginous drinks. 

Alkalies — Potash, Lye, Hartshorn, Ammonia. Vinegar 
or Lemon juice in water. 

Arsenic — Rat Poison, Paris Green. Milk, raw eggs, sweet 
oil, lime water, flour and water. 

Bug Poison — Lead, Saltpetre, Corrosive Sublimate, Sugar 
of Lead, Blue Vitriol. Whites of eggs, or milk in large 
doses. 

Chloroform — Chloral, Ether. Dash cold water on head 
and chest. Artificial respiration. 

Carbonate of Soda — Copperas, Co'balt. Soap suds and 
mucilaginous drinks. 

Iodine — Antimony, Tartar Emetic. Starch and water as- 
tringent infusions. Strong tea. 

Mercury and Its Salts — Whites of eggs, milk, mucilages. 

Opium — Morphine, Laudanum, Paregoric, Soothing Pow- 
ders or Syrups. Strong coffee, hot bath. Keep awake and 
moving at any cost. 

FIRST AID TO THE INJURED— GENERAL 
INSTRUCTIONS 

Shock — A person who has been injured in a railroad acci- 
dent, severely burned, or even suddenly frightened, often 
suffers from shock. The symptoms are feeble breathing, 
feeble pulse, pale face, cold skin and sometimes a delirious 
state of mind. The treatment is to place the patient in a 
horizontal position with head slightly lowered. 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 189 

First bind open wounds, then give from a teaspoonful 
to a tablespoonful of whisky or some other stimulant in a 
tablespoonful of hot water, repeating the dose every ten 
minutes, until five or six doses have been taken. Put hot 
flannels on the chest, and hot water bottles or hot bricks 
along both sides of the body, and under the armpits. Then 
cover the patient with a blanket to keep the heat in. The 
point of all this treatment is to thoroughly warm and stimu- 
late the patient. 

Care should be taken, ho-vvever, not to use bricks or 
cloths that are too hot, or the patient may be burned. Re- 
member that the patient suffering from shock is as a rule 
unable to feel the hot applications, so judgment must be 
used to avoid inflicting burns. 

Wounds — The principal object in treating a wound is to 
stop the flow of blood. First apply something over the 
opening to prevent the escape of blood, and then close the 
artery somewhere between the heart and the point where 
the injury is situated. 

This can be done by means of a tourniquet, which is a 
bandage or rope placed around the arm or leg, and twisted 
by means of a stick until it is tight enough to compress the 
artery and stop the flow of blood. In placing the banadge 
to stop the flow of blood, tie a knot, and place the knot 
on the vein of the artery, then tie tightly. The pressure 
of the knot on the artery is of great assistance in stopping 
the flow of blood. This is effective in the care of deep 
wounds with smooth edges. 

Lacerated Wounds — In cases where a wound has a rag- 
ged edge, and the skin about it torn or bruised, cleanse the 
wound thoroughly in warm water, place a cloth over it, and 
bandage tightly. The cloth should be either a clean dry 
one, or wrung out of clean boiling water and allowed to cool 
before applying. 

Wounds of this kind are usually caused by railway and 
machinery accidents, by falling timber, stone, etc., and are 
accompanied by a shock which should be given the treatment 
mentioned under that head. 

Bruises — Lay over the bruise a cloth saturated with hot 
water, or with any of the household remedies that contain 
alcoHol. Hot poultices , will diminish the pain and hasten 



190 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

the absorption of the blood. If the skin has been opened 
by the bruise, alcohol will be found painful, but it assists 
in stopping the flow of blood. The home-made poultice 
should be made of clean materials. A sterilized poultice is 
better. 

A Crushed Part — In a case where the foot or hand is 
crushed it should be put back as naturally as possible to 
its original shape, and then unless it is bleeding profusely, 
wrapped in a cloth dipped in warm water, and the whole in- 
jury warmly wrapped in a blanket. 

Insect Stings — Apply immediately a weak solution of 
either iodine, ammonia, salt water or oil. 

Burns and Scalds — Apply immediately either vaseline, lin- 
seed, olive or castor oil, white lead, soap or whitewash. 

Sprained Ankle or Wrist — The essential treatment in this 
case is to apply a cold application of some kind. 

Some people advocate pouring cold water from a height 
on the injured mem'ber. After the swelling has decreased it 
may be rubbed with alcohol or salt water. 

A sprain should be bound up tightly before the swelling 
sets in, but not afterward. Binding after the swelling has 
taken place will cause severe pain and do more harm than 
good. Bandages after swelling should be loose. 

Mad Dog Bites — Bind a cord above the wound; suck the 
wound out, and sear or cauterize the injury immediately 
with a white-hot iron or with caustic. The wound should 
be cauterized deeply, in spite of the pain caused. If the 
surface is merely seared over the poison may remain in the 
wound and continue to go through the system. Give stimu- 
lants such as whisky or brandy. The object of the treat- 
ment is to prevent the spreading of the poison through the 
system. 

Gun Shot Injuries — A bandage should be applied tightly 
above the wound to stop bleeding, foreign matter removed, 
and the wound washed. 

It is not advisable to try to probe the wound — leave that 
to a physician. An instrument picked up hastily in the home 
may not be clean and may serve only to make matters 
worse. 

Nosebleed — Nosebleed may be stopped by plugging up 
the nostrils with lint, and making cold applications to the 



COiMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE . 191 

back of the neck. In some cases nosebleeds may be checked 
by cobwebs or by placing a piece of folded brown paper un- 
der the upper lip. 

Internal Bleeding — Keep the patient at perfect rest. Give 
small pieces of ice to swallow. 

Fracture of Limb — Place the injured member on a pillow 
and lay a cool wet cloth on the fracture. If ice can be 
obtained, it is better to make an ice pack and place around 
the injury. Break the ice into small pieces and wrap in a 
clean cloth. 

Then take two pieces of thin board, somewhat longer 
than the injured bone and as wide as the limb is thick and 
fold up pieces of cotton batting or soft cloth for a pad. 
Tie the splints firmly one on each side of the injured mem- 
ber, using for this purpose strips of cloth, the object of 
this being to keep the broken ends of the bone immovable. 

Other Fractures — In the case of fractures of the jaw, 
skull, etc., place the patient in a cool, dark, quiet place, 
keeping the head slightly raised and placing a wet cloth on 
it. Stimulants should not be given. 

Dislocation — The best general treatment for dislocation 
of all kinds is to make the patient as comfortable as possible 
and lay a cold wet cloth over the affected joint until skilled 
aid can be obtained. 

Suffocation — Dash cold water in the face, slap the patient 
on the breast, and hold ammonia under the nostrils. If 
these simple means do not restore breathing, it will be nec- 
essary to resort to artificial respiration, which is discussed 
under drowning. 

Another Treatment for Drowning — Never take it for 
granted that a person taken from the water is dead until 
the treatment recommended to restore a drowning person 
has been tried to the limit. Cases are on record where per- 
sons have been under water a half hour, and have been 
brought back to life. 

If the patient's face is swollen and purple, with the lips 
livid and eyes bloodshot, or if, on the other hand, he appears 
pale and flabby, it is no evidence that he is dead. The 
treatment should be given immediately and on the spot, 
except in extreme weather, when the body may he removed 
to a place of shelter if it is near. 



192 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

The first object of the treatment is to make the patient 
breathe, and after this is accomplished to re-establish the 
circulation of the blood, and to restore warmth to the 
body. 

First send immediately for a doctor, blankets and stimu- 
lants. Expose the chest and shoulders to the wind, quickly 
open the clothing about the neck, turn the patient on the 
face; clasp your hands together beneath the stomach, and 
lift as high as possible, allowing the head to hang so the 
water can run out. Hold the patient in this position for a 
few seconds, and then turn him again on his back. Wipe 
out the mouth and the back of throat with your finger cov- 
ered with a handkerchief. 

If this does not restore breathing, apply smelling salts 
to the nose, tickle the nose with a feather or straw, and 
dash water on the chest, alternately hot and cold. These 
methods must be quickly tried, and if they are not suc- 
cessful artificial respiration must be resorted to. 

The best method known is Sylvester's method. The 
point is to make the chest expand, causing the air to be 
drawn in just as a pair of bellows will fill with air when 
open. Then the chest is made to contract, and the air 
forced out. 

By alternately performing these movements we have 
inspiration and expiration, and the two together constitute 
breathing, or respiration. The patient should be placed on 
the back with the shoulders resting on a roll of clothing, 
and the tip of the tongue drawn forward out of the mouth, 
otherwise it will fall back into the throat and will interfere 
with breathing. 

This is very important, and should be done by grasping 
the tongue with a dry handkerchief, or the fingers may even 
be covered with sand to prevent the tongue slipping. 

If alone, one would have to draw the tongue out and 
tie it against the lower teeth. The best way to hold the 
tongue out is to run a pin or needle through it, which will 
prevent it from falling back. Then after adjusting the 
tongue, kneel behind the patient's head, grasp him by the 
forearms, and draw up his arms back again until they rest 
against the chest for one second. 

Continue this regularly and persistently at the rate of 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 193 

sixteen times per minute, until some effort is made by pa- 
tient to breathe, when you should endeavor to time these 
movements by his efforts. At such a time ammonia may be 
applied as well as dashes of cold water and slapping. Even 
if thei'e be no sign of life, this artificial respiration should be 
continued for an hour and i. half at least. If this is prop- 
erly done, the air can be heard entering and leaving the 
chest - 

During the attempt to restore respiration the body should 
be kept warm. This may be done by friction of all kinds, 
as well as by hot water bottles and hot bricks. As soon 
as the patient can swallow, give hot drinks. If difficulty of 
breathing persists, apply a hot mustard plaster to the chest. 

Choking — In cases where some foreign substance has got- 
ten into the throat and the patient turns purple in the face, 
the eyes protrude, the arms are thrown about, and some- 
times the patient falls unconscious, the first thing to do 
is to slap him violently on the back. Stand him up face to 
the wall with his chest resting against it, aiid give him a 
severe blow between the shoulders. 

In the case of a child, place one hand on each side of 
the chest, and compress it vigorously and constantly, or 
lift it up 'by the heels and slap the back while in this posi- 
tion. Sometimes the foreign substance can be grasped by 
thrusting the thumb and forefinger down the throat. 

For poisoning caused by internal use of any drug in a 
poisonous dose, frequently home treatment may be admin- 
istered that will prolong life until the arrival of a physician. 
It should be first remembered, however, that it is necessary 
to keep a cool head in spite of dangerous symptoms or pain. 
This is not always easily done, but it is none the less im- 
portant. 

General Instructions — When a person is poisoned, life 
often depends on doing the right thing, and doing it 
quickly. 

When the poison is unknown, the treatment must be 
conducted on general principles. If the patient vomits, the 
action should be promoted by copious draughts of warm 
water. If he is inclined to sleep, he must be kept awake. 
If he is faint, he must be made to lie down and take stimu- 
lants. If the extremities are cold, heat must be applied. 



194 COAIPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

After the stomach is emptied, bland drinks such as starch 
or gruel (fine oatmeal, one ounce, mixed and boiled with a 
tumblerful of water) should be given. It is always safe, 
and often beneficial, to give Powdered Charcoal and Cal- 
cined Magnesia, either alone or mixed. In any case, send 
•for a physician. 

Emetics — As a rule, a person who has taken a poison 
should be made to vomit as quickly as possible. Give either 
a tablespoonful of mustard, or of common table salt, stirred 
into a tumblerful of lukewarm water. 

Ice Rescue — To rescue a person who has broken through 
the ice you should first tie a rope around your body and 
have the other end tied, or held, on shore. Then secure a 
long board or ladder or limb of a tree, crawl out on this, 
or push it out, so that the person in the water may reach it. 
If nothing can 'be found on which you can support your 
weight, do not attempt to walk out towar<i the person to 
be rescued, but lie down flat on your face and crawl out, as 
by doing this much less weight bears at any one point on 
the ice than in walking. If you yourself break through the 
ice remember that if you try to crawl up on the broken 
edge it will very likely break again with you. If rescuers 
are near, it would be much better to support yourself on 
the edge of the ice and wait for them to come to you. 

See Restoring the Drowning and Artificial Respiration 
also. 

Freezin^f — The patient should be taken into a cold place 
and the body should be rubbed with rough cloths wet in 
cold water. The temperature of the room should be in- 
creased if possible. This should be done gradually and the 
cloths should be wet in warmer and warmer water. As soon 
as the patient can swallow give him stimulants. It will be 
^dangerous to place him before an open fire or in a hot bath 
until he begins to recover. You will know this by his skin 
becoming warmer, by his 'better color and by his generally 
improved appearance. 

Frost-Bite — Remember that you are in danger of frost- 
bite if you do not wear sufficient clothing in cold weather, 
and that rubbing any part of the body which becomes very 
cold helps to prevent frost-bite, because it 'brings more 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 195 

warm blood to the surface. The danger is when, after being- 
cold, the part suddenly has no feeling. 

The object of the treatment is gradually to restore 
warmth to the frozen part. To do this the part should be 
rubbed first with snow or cold water; the water should be 
warmed gradually. The use of hot water at once would be 
likely to cause mortification of the frozen part. Hence use 
very ^old water first, and ver}' gradually bring it to lukt 
warm; if the limb is frozen use only cold water un.til thawed. 

Earache — This is likely to result seriously, and a doctor 
should be consulted in order to prevent bad results with 
possible loss of hearing. Hot cloths, a bag of heated salt, 
or a hot bottle applied to the ear will often cure earache. 
A few drops of alcohol on a hot cloth so placed that the 
alcohol fumes enter the ear will often succeed. H neither 
is effective, heat a few drops of sweet' oil as hot as you can 
stand, put a few drops in the ear and plug with cotton. Be 
careful that it is not too hot. 

Toothache — Remember that toothache indicates some-^ 
thing seriously wrong with the teeth which can only b>e 
permanently corrected by a dentist. In toothache, if you can 
find a cavity, clean it out with a small piece of cotton or a 
toothpick. Then plug it with cotton, on which a drop of oil 
of cloves has been put, if you have it. If no cavity is found, 
soak a piece of cotton in camphor and apply it to the outside 
of the gum. Hot cloths and hot bottles or bags will help 
in toothache, just as they do in earache. Even Pepper. Gin- 
ger or any spice on a piece of lint used to plug up the cavity 
and keep the air out will stop the ache. 

Chills — In order to stop a chill drink hot milk or hot 
lemonade and get into bed. Plenty of covers should be used, 
and hot water bottles or hot milk or lemonade help to warm 
one quickly. Hot coffee, tea, ginger tea, hot bottles or stone 
at the feet and plenty of blankets or covering. 

Repeat the dose in ten minutes if the firsi: dose fails 
to act. 

Tickling the throat with the fingers or a feather is a 
rapid and effectual way of producing vomiting. Drinking 
warm water (not hot) always may be used, as emetics are 
Zinc Sulphate (30 grains), Ammonium Carbonate (30- 
grains), powdered Ipecac (30 grains), or Copper Sulphate 



196 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

(5 to 10 grains), any one of these in the doses named to be 
given in half a tumblerful of warm water. 

Aconite — Aconite is a common remedy kept in many 
households for fevers and sometimes an overdose may be 
taken accidentally or intentionally. For aconite poisoning, 
it is important to evacuate the bowels as soon as pos- 
sible with any remedy that may be available. Also give 
atropine if it can be had, the dose for an adult being 1-50 
of a grain. 

Phosphorous — Promote vomiting as soon as possible, 
also give cathartics. The treatment for phosphorous pois- 
oning should be continued for about three days because 
phosphorous is slowly secreted and is not easily dispelled 
from the system. 

There is no regular antidote for the poison; early evac- 
uation by the stomach tube and the free promotion of 
vomiting are the main points. Magnesia or Magnesium 
Carbonate should be given freely in mucilaginous drinks 
(flaxseed or slippery elm). Oils and fats should be avoided. 
Rinsing out the stomach with a dilute solution of Potas- 
sium Permanganate has also been advised. 

Carbolic Acid — Give a tablespoonful of Epsom or Glau- 
ber salt in a half glassful of water and warm mucilaginous 
drinks; follow with hot applications to the extremities and 
counter-irritation over the abdomen. The best antidote 
for Carbolic Acid (phenol, coal tar disinfectants, etc.) is 
alcohol. For external injury use the strongest alcohol, but 
when the poison has been swallowed whisky is the most 
suitable. Use it promptly and liberally. 

Alcohol, Grain or Wood — If necessary give emetics of 
mustard, also plenty of fresh air; apply cold cloths to the 
head, and maintain artificial respiration. Keep the patient 
in a horizontal position, his body warm by friction, and 
application of mustard plasters to his limbs. The best that 
can be done in poisoning by wood alcohol is to aid in 
the elimination of the alcohol by free sweating and by the 
administration of large quantities of water in which baking 
soda has been dissolved. 

Arsenic and Its Compounds — First get rid of the poison 
by means of vomiting and the stomach tube. Vomiting may 
be induced by copious draughts of warm water or a mixture 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 197 

of mustard and water. Raw eggs beaten up with milk are 
particularly useful, as is likewise a mixture of Albumen, 
milk and lime water; or equal parts of oil and lime water 
may be used, for the oil invests the poison and the lime 
renders it less soluble. 

The most efficient antidote is the official Hydrated Ox- 
ide of Iron with Magnesia, which should be procured at 
once from the nearest drug store and administered in one- 
half teacupful doses. Laudanum (15 drops) should be given 
in the after treatment to allay pain and irritation, and plenty 
of fresh water to dilute the poison and to flush the kidneys. 

Cocaine — Give an emetic of mustard and follow with large 
draughts of warm water. Give plenty Potassium Perman- 
ganate, 5 grains dissolved in a teacupful of water, repeating 
the dose every half hour until several doses have been taken. 
Then give strong tea or coffee. Arouse the patient and 
keep him in motion. 

Fish Poison — Siphon out the stomach or evacuate with 
mustard, Zinc Sulphate, or any one of the emetics named 
above. Give Tannic Acid (20 grains in an ounce of water), 
copious draughts of strong tea or oak-'bark decoction (table- 
spoonful to 4 fluid ounces of hot water). Follow by siphon- 
ing again or by emetic, if vomiting has stopped. Give" one 
ounce of castor oil. 

Arsenic — Cause vomiting by warm mustard water or salt 
water, as above indicated. Magnesia may also be given or 
Epsom Salts, if obtainable. 

Paris Green. — Ennploy the same treatment as given for 
Arsenic and its compounds. 

Lead Poisoning — Give emetics to cause vomiting. Ep- 
som Salts may also be used on the white of egg and milk. 
Also pump out the stomach as soon as possible. 

Poison Ivy — Usually the poisoning is due to external 
contact. Rub in well a saturated solution of Lead Acetate 
in diluted alcohol and repeat for several days. Or apply 
a wash consisting of fluid extract of Grindelia, one part, 
water ten to forty parts. An infusion of Lobelia (one ounce 
to the pint) may also be used. Sea bathing is often bene- 
ficial. 

Tobacco — No time is to be lost in beginning treatment. 
Give an emetic of mustard, followed by large draughts of 



198 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

Avarm water. In addition to emetics or the stomach tube, 
strong tea or coffee with charcoal may be given. Brandy 
or Ammonia should also be given. 

Poison Sumac — Employ the same treatment as given for 
poison iv}-. 

Ptomaine Poisoning — Emplo}' the same treatment as giv- 
en for hsh poison. 

Rough on Rats — Emplo}^ the same treatment as given 
for Arsenic and its compounds. 

Snake Bite — Immediatel}^ and thoroughly suck or cup the 
wound. If the person bitten is too faint to do this for him- 
self, anyone may fearlessly help him, for if there be no 
crack about the lip or tongue, these poisons may be swal- 
lowed with impunity. Check the circulation by a piece 
of rope or pocket handkerchief, tying around the limb, 
above the wound; or if this is impossible from the situa- 
tion of the wound, by pressure around it. Then the bitten 
part may be cut out or cauterized. The local application 
of a strong solution of Potassium Permanganate or Bleach- 
ing Powder (chlorinated lime) has been highly recom- 
mended. For stings and bites of insects Ammonia water 
is the best remedy, but soap or any Alkaline substance will 
often give relief. 

Fatal Hours in Illness — A scientist several years ago un- 
<iertook to investigate the popular notion that there are 
certain hours during the twenty-four more fatal to life 
than others. He ascertained the hour of death in 2,880 
instances of all ages from a mixed population, and from 
deaths occurring during a period of several years. The 
maximum hour of death is from 5 to G o'clock a. m., when 
it is 40 per cent above the average: and the minimum during 
the hours from 9 till 11 o'clock in the evening, when 'it is 
^14 per cent below the average. Thus the least mortality 
is during midda}^ hours — namely, from 10 to 3 o'clock; the 
greatest during early morning hours, from ?> to 6 o'clock. 

Chilblain Cure 

Creosote drops 12 

Goulard's Extract drops 12 

Extract of Opium gr. lyi 

Pine Tar gr. 90 

I^ard av. oz. 1 



COiMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 199 

SNAKE BITES, POISON IVY, BITES OF 
INSECTS, ANIMALS, FISH, ETC., ETC. 

Poisons and Their Antidotes 

Always send immediately for a medical man. Save alE 
fluids vomited, and articles of food, cups, glasses, etc., used • 
by the patient before taken ill, and lock them up. 

As a rule give emetics after poisons that cause sleepi- 
ness and raving: — chalk, milk, eggs, butter and warm water; 
or oil after poisons that cause vomiting and pain in the stom- 
ach and bowels, with purging; and when there is no in- 
flammation about the throat, tickle it with a feather to 
excite vomiting. 

Vomiting may be caused by giving warm water, with a. 
teaspoonful of mustard to the tumblerful, well stirred up.. 
Sulphate of zinc (white vitriol) may be used in place of the 
mustard, or powdered alum. Powder of ipecacuanha, a tea- 
spoonful rub'bed up with molasses, may be employed for 
children. Tartar emetic should never be given, as it is ex- 
cessively depressing, and uncontrollable in its effects. The- 
stomach pump can only be used by skillful hands, and even 
then with caution. 

Opium and Other Narcotics — After vomiting has occurred', 
cold water should be dashed over the face and head. The 
patient must be kept awake, walked about between two- 
strong persons, made to grasp the handles of a galvanic 
battery, dosed with strong coffee, and vigorously slapped. 
Belladonna is an antidote for opium and for morphia, etc.,. 
its active principles; and, on the other hand, the latter coun- 
teract the effects of belladonna. But a knowledge of medi- 
cine is necessary for dealing with these articles. 

Strychnia — After emetics have been freely and successfully 
given, the patient should be allowed to breathe the vapor of 
sulphuric ether, poured on a handkerchief and held to the 
face, jn such quantities as to keep down the tendency to 
convulsions. Bromide of potassium, twenty grains at a dose, 
dissolved in syrup, may 'be given every hour. 

Alcoholic Poisoning should be combatted by emetics, of 
which the sulphate of zinc, given as a'bove directed, is the 



200 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

best. After that, strong coffee internally, and stimulation 
by heat externally, should be used. 

Acids are sometimes swallowed by mistake. Alkalies, 
lime water, magnesia, or common chalk mixed with water, 
may be freely given, and afterward mucilaginous drinks, 
such as thick gum water or flaxseed tea. 

Alkalies are less frequently taken in injurious strength 
of quantity, but sometimes children swallow lye by mistake. 
Common vinegar may be given freely, and then castor or 
sweet oil in full doses — a tablespoonful at a time, repeated 
every half hour or two. 

Nitrate of silver when swallowed is neutralized by com- 
mon table salt freely given in solution in water. 

The salts of mercury or arsenic (often kept as bedbug 
poison), which are powerful irritants, are apt to be very 
quickly fatal. Milk or the whites of eggs may be freely 
given, and afterwards a very thin paste of flour and water. 
In these cases an emetic is to be given after the poison is 
neutralized. 

Phosphorus paste, kept for roach poison or in parlor 
matches, is sometimes eaten by children, and has been will- 
fully taken for the purpose of suicide. It is a powerful irri- 
tant. The first thing to be done is to give freely of mag- 
nesia and water; then to give mucilaginous drinks, as flax- 
seed tea, gum water or sassafras pith and water; and lastly, 
to administer finel3'--powdered bone-charcoal, either in pill 
or in mixture with water. 

In no case of poisoning should there be any avoidable 
delay in obtaining the advice of a physician, and, mean- 
while, the friends or bystanders should endeavor to find 
out exactly what has been taken, so that the treatment 
adopted may be as prompt and effective as possible. 



Frost-Bite Remedy 

Camphor Powder gr. 90 

Lanolin av. oz. 1 

Petrolatum av. oz. l 

Hydrochloric Acid fl. dr. 1 

To be applied evenings. ^ 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 201 

USING THE HYPODERMIC SYRINGE ON AN 
EXPLORING VOYAGE OR TRIP 

Dr. H. Plympton, the well known surgeon, an ardent 
sportsman and camper, wrote the following article, which 
can be easily understood by every layman, and which gives 
directions for using the S3'ringe and four remedies which 
are most likely to be .needed. 

These four remedies are: 

First — Potassium permanganate in half-grain tablets. 

Second — Cocaine and morphine tablets, composed of co- 
caine, one-fifth grain; morphine, one-fortieth grain; soda 
chlor., one-fifth grain. 

Third — Morphine in one-quarter grain tablets. 

Fourth — Strychnia in one-fortieth grain tablets. 

These four remedies are all that are absolutely neces- 
sary for emergencies, such as venomous insect, reptile or 
snake bite, exhaustion, shock, heart failure and the need of 
minor surgical operations and allaying intense pain. 

The object of hypodermic medication is to get the rem- 
edy into the blood as quickly as possible and to introduce 
it as near as may be to the seat of injury or the pain. 
To insure its rapid assimilation by the blood the medicine 
should be injected just between the skin and the muscles, 
underneath; in other words, into the fat. 

Dissolve the tablet to be used in the proper amount of 
water, or put any solution to be used into a teaspoon or 
what you may have that will hold it. A leaf properly folded 
will do; even the hollow of the hand in an emergency. 
You will find a wire run through the hollow needle to keep 
it clear. Remove this. Remove the cap from the end of 
the syringe and suck up the solution from the teaspoon 
by drawing out the piston of the syringe. Screw the needle 
firmly on the end of the syringe from which the cap was 
removed. Hold the syringe with the needle pointing up- 
wards and press gently on the piston until the fluid begins 
to come out of the needle. This is to force all the air out 
of the syringe. 

Now take up a fold or pinch of skin between the thumb 
and forefinger, insert the needle with a rotary motion of 
the syringe, as when boring a hole with an awl, being care- 



202 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

ful not to press on the piston while so doing. Keep the 
needle in a line with the line of the fold and it will be in 
correct position. 

The needle will slip through the skin quickly and almost 
painlessly. Push it in its full length. Now press firmly 
on the piston and force it in slowly until the contents have 
been injected, being careful to keep the syringe in position. 
Withdraw the needle, and with the thumb press on the 
little hole made by the needle; with the first and second 
fingers rub the swelling made by the injected fluid for a 
few moments and it will disappear, leaving nothing but a 
tiny red spot. 

If the injection be made between the skin and the 
muscles, as described, it may be made anywhere on the 
body, although just over a bone that is close to the sur- 
face, as a shin bone, or on the back of the hand, are places 
to be avoided. Also in the bend of the elbows and knees 
and in the armpits are vessels that would 'be injured by the 
careless use of the syringe. The outside of the forearm 
or the upper arm, the calf of the leg, or the thigh, the big 
muscles of the buttocks, and the shoulder, and anywhere 
on the back are all places where the needle may be used 
without hesitation. 

A short needle, three-eighths of an inch long, accom- 
panies most outfits, and this may be used without taking 
up a fold of the skin; simply jabbed quickly and firmly as 
deep as it will go straight into any one of the big muscles. 

The dangers in the use of the hypodermic are practically 
nothing. Exercise the same amount of care as in admin- 
istering medicine by the mouth and no harm can be done; 
and, as in the case of a rattlesnake wound, the advantages 
are so immeasureably ahead of any treatment by the mouth; 
even if it were dangerous, it would be worth taking a chance. 

Be sure that the tablet is thoroughly dissolved, or you 
may force a piece into the needle and spoil it. Ten drops 
of water will dissolve any one ta'blet, and fifteen will suffice 
for any two, especially if the water be warm. Do not use 
more than this, unless by direction. After using the syringe, 
and before removing the needle, draw up some water and 
eject it to clear the needle. A little vaseline or gun grease 
on the wire will prevent the needle from rusting. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 203 

For venomous insect and snake bites, tie a piece of small 
rope, a heavy handkerchief or a bandage loosely around the 
limb two and one-half inches from the wound and be- 
tween the wound and the heart. (If the wound be on the 
face of the body, this is manifestly impossible.) Tighten 
this binder by twisting a stick in it till the binder sinks 
i..to the flesh and is quite painful. This is to stop circula- 
tion as much as possible. Prepare the syringe, using a 
shorf needle. Dissolve one one-half grain tablet of potas- 
sium permanganate in two teaspoonfuls of water. Fill the 
syringe and inject at once half the contents directly into the 
swelling made by the hide. Inject the remainder about an 
inch nearer the body. Use deep injection if possible, other- 
wise just under the skin. Two more injections must now 
be made in the immediate neighborhood of the wound, each 
of them being about half a syringeful and all between the 
wound and the bandage. As the swelling of the limb in- 
creases, the binder may be gradually loosened, and after 
half an hour it may be removed entirel3^ 

Immediately after giving the injection of potassium per- 
manganate dissolve one tablet of strychnia sulph. (one- 
fortieth of a grain) in about fifteen drops of water and 
inject it into the outside surface of the upper arm," mid- 
way between the elbow and the shoulder and just under 
the skin. Dissolve another strychnia tablet and prepare 
it in the syringe. Note the symptoms. The first symptoms 
are excitement, quickened pulse and rapid breathing, fol- 
lowed b}^ depression, shallow breathing and drowsiness. 
This condition must be treated by tablespoonful doses of 
brandy or whiskey at half-hour intervals. Three doses 
will be enough. Large amounts of whiskey will not cure 
snake bite, but will do much harm. 

The condition of the respiration must be carefully 
watched, and if there is a continuance or recurrence of 
"shallow" or quick breathing, the second syringeful of 
strychnia should be injected into the arm as before. This 
strychnia injection may be repeated at fifteen-minute in- 
tervals — one tablet at each injection until five tablets have 
been given, or the breathing become more nearly normal. 

The patient should not be allowed to sleep for more 
than two hours continuously during the first twenty-four 



204 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



hours. The bowels should be made to move freely by means 
of cathartic pills, salts or oil. Cheerful and encouraging 
suggestions will do much to counteract the depression fol- 
lowing the absorption of the poison. 

Careful investigation and close observation of properly 
authenticated cases of rattle-snake poisoning have led to 
the positive conclusion that a man iii good general health 
will stand an even chance of recovery from a rattle-snake 
strike without any treatment whatever. With a hypodermic 
syringe and proper remedies at hand there is no danger of a 
serious result. 

For minor surgical operations the cocaine and morphine 
tablet should be used as follows: Dissolve one tablet in one 
teaspoonful of water and take up a syringeful of the solu- 
tion. Inject half the quantity under the skin, not deep, 
where the cut is to be made. Almost immediately the skin 
will become wax-like — this will indicate that the part is 
benumbed, so that an incision can be made without caus- 
ing pain. Make a sufficient number of injections to cover 
the part to be cut. The surface benumbed by each injec- 
tion will be about the size of a 25-cent piece. 

For allaying intense pain and physical suffering mor- 
phine should be used by dissolving one tablet (one-quarter 
grain) in about ten drops of water and injecting it under 
the skin as near the seat of the pain as possible. If the 
pain is caused by some injury, such as a broken bone or a 
severe burn, and is likely to last, a second tablet may be 
given in fifteen minutes and a third one twenty minutes 
later. Pain is the antidote for morphine, and as long as 
pain exists there is no danger from a much larger dose than 
the above. If, however, the pain arises from some cause, 
such as cramps, that are likely to end abruptly, the above 
dose is enough. 

For exhaustion, shock, fatigue, hunger, heart failure, 
strychnia should be used as follows: Dissolve the tablet in 
ten drops of water and inject into the outside of the arm, 
midway between the elbow and shoulder. The condition 
of exhaustion, whether from great exertion, loss of blood, 
or hunger has caused a marked depression of the heart's 
action and the nervous system is noticeably affected. The 
patient is pale, a cold perspiration covers the face, the 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 205 

breathing is shallow and quick, and the pulse is faint and 
very rapid. One injection will show a decided effect, but if 
a second is necessary fifteen minutes afterward do not 
hesitate to give it. 



TREATMENT OF WOUNDS, GUNSHOT RIFLE, 

ETC., ETC. 

Wounds are injuries of the outer tissues in any portion 
of the body, in which an opening is made in the skin and more 
or less of the deeper tissues. The different varieties of wounds 
are cut or incised, torn or lacerated, bruises or contusions, 
pierced or punctured wounds, including gun shot and poisoned 
wounds. 

Cut or Incised Wounds are the result of being injured 
with sharp cutting instruments, such as knives, razors and swords. 
The edges of the wound are clean cut, and when brought to- 
gether fit accurately and completely close the wound. One of 
the principal dangers of such a wound is bleeding. 

Torn or Lacerated Wounds are the result of blows with 
blunt instruments, such as clubs, stones or where a person is 
injured by machinery or the bursting of explosives. In such 
wounds, where the tissues are irregularly torn, there is much 
danger on account of inflammation which may set in on account 
of dirt and germs having been introduced into the wound at the 
time of the accident. If such a condition exists the wound be- 
comes infected or poisoned, and from such wounds frequently 
results blood poisoning. 

Bruises or Contusions are also the result of blows with 
blunt instruments, or of having fallen and struck upon some 
hard substance, where the injury is not sufficient to produce an 
opening in the skin. Generally, some of the blood vessels be- 
neath the skin are broken or ruptured, which allows the blood 
to escape beneath the skin. This produces the well-known black 
and blue marks. 

Pierced or Punctured Wounds are produced by daggers, 
bayonets, and sharp-pointed instruments, also bullets from re- 
volvers and rifles. Usually, the openings in the skin are small, 
but the wound itself is quite deep, and important blood vessels 



Rubber Specialties for 
Camp Uses 




Folding' Rubber 
Toilet Case. 




Feather-weight 
Rubber Raiu Cape. 




Folding- Rubber 

Bucket. 

Open. 




Closed. 





Rubber Poncho 
Blanket Cape. 



Folding Rubber 
Wash Basin. 





Folding Rubber Bath ot 
Wash Tub and Pack- 
ing Case. 



Rubber Bag. Canoe Folding 
Used in Packing. Drinking Cup. 



Rubber 
Tumbler, 




Raia Cape Packed. 
(Pocket size.) 



Gold Medal Folding Rubber Bath Tttb. 
(Adult Size). 

206 



CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 207 

and vital organs may be injured. The danger from such wounds 
depends upon whether large blood vessels or some important 
internal organ has been seriously injured so as to interfere with 
its function. Inflammation and blood poisoning frequently fol- 
low, and the shock to the nervous system is usually severe. Re- 
sults are often fatal. 

Poisoned Wounds are the result of the bites of venomous 
reptiles, animals and insects, where there had been injected 
through the skin into the tissues some poisonous virus peculiar 
to the reptile, animal or insect. Such wounds are usually in the 
nature of a punctured wound with a small opening, although in 
the case of bites from a mad dog, the skin and tissues may be 
torn and lacerated. 

In all cases of severe wounds, with severe hemorrhages, al- 
ways send far a surgeon. Wounds heal in two ways. First, 
by primary union or first intention ; that is the best and quick- 
est way. It takes but a short time, and the resulting scar is 
small and scarcely disfiguring. Incised or clean-cui wounds 
usually heal in this way. The second method is that of granu- 
lation or second intention, and the process is slow and the scar 
usually large and ugly. Lacerated and torn wounds usually 
heal this way on account of the fact that the edges of the wound 
are ragged and cannot be brought together, and, as a rule, such 
wounds inflame and discharge pus. 

A most important thing to remember in the treatment of 
wounds of any kind is the absolute necessity of perfect clean- 
liness. By keeping wounds clean and preventing dirt or germs 
from getting into them we are able to prevent infection and 
blood poisoning. If a wound is clean-cut and with no dirt in 
it, such a wound as would be made by a knife or sharp instru- 
ment apply an antiseptic sterilized dressing and bandage. If a 
wound is torn and full of dirt and foreign particles, these should 
be removed with utmost care by washing out the wound with 
absolutely clean water and sterilized gauze sponges. There is 
nothing better to cleanse a wound with than boiled water. The 
hands of the person cleansing any kind of a wound should be 
made as clean as possible by washing with hot water and soap, 
and scrubbing with a good, hard brush. 

Never use a solution of carbolic acid in treating wounds of 
the hand, fingers, feet and toes, as many cases are on record 
where it has produced gangrene or death of the tissues, and the 



208 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

parts have had to be amputated. If it is desirable to use a good 
antiseptic solution, use lysol, one teaspoonful to a quart of hot 
water; this makes a nice, clean, soapy solution. 

Never apply cobwebs or tobacco leaves or juice to cuts or 
Jwounds. These are very dirty and improper methods of treat- 
ment and might be the means of causing blood poisoning, or 
even lockjaw and death. 

Treatment of Incised Wounds — One of the first things 
to be done is to stop bleeding, which at times may be quite pro- 
fuse, and even dangerous. This should be done by the methods 
already described under that lesson. The next important thing 
is the cleaning of the wound ; any foreign substance or dirt 
which would be liable to poison the wound should be carefully 
removed, being careful to see that the fingers are perfectly 
clean before doing so. After every foreign substance has been 
removed, the wound being thoroughly cleansed, the next thing 
is to bring the edges of the wound as near together as possible, 
and then bandage firmly with either a triangular or roller ban- 
dage. It is very important that this compress should be abso- 
lutely clean and free from germs, and the best one to use is an 
antiseptic compress made especially for that purpose, found in 
all first-class first aid packages, and which has been thoroughly 
sterilized and disinfected. 

Treatment of Lacerated Wounds — Such wounds usually 
have raggec^ edges, and it is almost impossible to bring the 
edges together. Bleeding is usually severe and even dangerous, 
and is frequently accompanied by severe nervous shock. Such 
wounds should be treated practically the same as incised wounds; 
bleeding must be controlled, dirt and foreign substances must be 
removed, and a clean compress applied. If shock is present, this 
condition must also be treated according to rules laid down in 
another lesson. 

Treatment of Bruises or Contusions — Bruises or contu- 
sions are usually slight and simple affairs. There are no cuts or 
bleeding to be treated. They can be treated by making cold or 
hot applications, or by applying compressions soaked in hot or 
cold water, or some mild antiseptic solution. Bandage and keep 
the parts at rest. 

Treatment of Punctured Wounds — Punctured wounds are 
frequently very severe and dangerous on account of internal 
or deep-seated bleeding with injuries to the internal organs, 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 209 

accompanied by severe shock, and require the immediate atten- 
tion of a surgeon. They frequently contain foreign bodies, such 
as bullets, slivers, etc., which must be removed, but only, by a 
competent surgeon. The wound or entrance should be thorough- 
ly cleansed and an antiseptic compress applied and the patient 
removed to a place where he can receive proper surgical treat- 
ment. 

Treatment of Poisoned Wounds — The object of treatment 
in such wounds, especially snake bites or the bites of mad dogs, 
is to prevent the poison from being absorbed and carried by the 
blood to the nervous system and vital organs. The danger is 
not in the wound itself, but from the effects of the poisonous 
substance introduced into the wound at the time of the injury. 
If an extremity, such as the hands, feet, legs or arms are bitten, 
bind a piece of string, handkerchief or rubber tubing around the 
part a few inches above the wound. Next it is well to apply 
suction with the mouth, so as to remove as much of the poison 
as possible. This is not a dangerous proceeding, provided there 
are no cuts present in the mouth. Any further treatment should 
be left to a surgeon, and usually consists of burning or cauter- 
izing the wound and treating the depression or shock which 
usually accompanies such bites. Cauterization is accomplished 
by thoroughly burning out the wound with some strong acid, 
such as nitric or carbolic, or by burning with a red-hot poker, 
knitting needle or small knife blade. After this the wound 
should be dressed the same as any other wound, with an anti- 
septic compress. 

Splinters — The danger of splinters and thorns under the 
skin or fingernails is that at the time of insertion they carry a 
certain amount of dirt with them and, acting as a foreign body, 
inflammation and suppuration set in, with a result that pus or 
matter collects under the skin, and this might result in blood 
poisoning. 

To remove a splinter or thorn slip the point of a penknife 
under the protruding end of the splinter, catching it firmly 
against the blade with the thumbnail and draw it out, or by using 
a pair of fine pincers. If the end of a splinter does not protrude 
the skin over it can be pricked away with the point of a needle 
until the end of the splinter is uncovered, then it can be easily 
removed. If the splinter is under a fingernail, remove in the 
same way. If, however, it is broken off under the nail the 




c 



o 



o 
CQ 



O 

o 

o 



o 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 211 

nail over the splinter should be scraped thin and a little V- 
shaped piece of the nail cut out over the splinter, when it can 
be readily drawn out. 

Snake Bite — Do not stop to kill the snake. Tear open 
the clothing to expose the wound. Tie a handkerchief, strap or 
rope quickly around the limb above the wound. Draw it tight 
enough to stop circulation. Better still, tie it loosely, and then 
twist it by means of a stick inserted in the knot. Take the tip 
of "a knife blade and open the one or two holes made by the 
snake's fangs. The best way for a layman to do this is to press 
the blade down into the wound and cut outward ; cut length- 
wise rather than around the limb. Be careful not to cut an 
artery, but if bleeding occurs it can be stopped by pressure. Let 
the blood run from the knife cut. At the same time rub the 
wound with the fingers in order to dislodge any of the tenacious 
poison which remains. 

An oft practiced and successful plan is to suck the wound, 
thereby extracting the poison ; there is no danger from the 
poison taken into the mouth, but it must be expectorated and 
not swallowed. Wash the wound with whisky, rather than give 
.whisky to the sufferer. Take the patient to a surgeon as soon 
as possible, keeping the pressure applied. 

Bites of Dogs — Wash with antiseptic soap and apply harts- 
horn. If the dog has been sick the wound may be sucked after 
cleansing. 

Cases of hydrophobia are very rare, but serious. In all cases 
of dog bite summon a surgeon and take his advice. 

Stings of Scorpions, Centipedes, Tarantulas and Insects — 

Apply hartshorn at the point where the sting entered, then apply 
cold water or ice and summon a surgeon. 

As a rule, an insect stinging will leave his sting in the wound. 
This should be pressed out, if possible, either by pressing on the 
skin at its side with a knife blade, or a watch key's open cen- 
ter pressed vertically upon it. 

The stings of ordinary insects, such as spiders and mosqui- 
toes, should be wet with a solution of hartshorn or table salt- 
Cold water or wet earth may also be applied. 



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COMPXETE trappers guide 213 

WHAT TO DO 

If an artery is cut, red blood spurts. Compress it above 
the wound. If a vein is cut, dark blood flows. Compress it 
below and above. 

If choked, go upon all fours and cough. 

For slight burns, dip the part in cold water; if the skin 
is destroyed, cover with varnish or linseed oil. 

For apoplexy, raise the head and body; for fainting, lay 
the person flat. 

Send for a physician when a serious accident of any kind 
occurs, but treat as directed until he arrives. 

Scalds and Burns— The following facts cannot be too firm- 
ly impressed on the mind of the reader, that in either of these 
accidents the first, best and often the only remedies required, are 
sheets of wadding, fine wool, or carded cotton, and in the de- 
fault of these, violet powder, flour, magnesia, or chalk. The 
objects for which these several articles are employed is the same 
in each instance; namely, to exclude the air from the injured 
part; for if the air can be effectually shut out from the raw sur- 
face, and care is taken not to expose the tender part till the new 
cuticle is formed, the cure may be safely left to nature. The 
moment a person is called to a case of scald or burn, he should 
cover the part with a sheet, or a portion of a sheet, of wad- 
ding, taking care not to break any blister that may have formed, 
or stay to remove any burnt clothes that may adhere to the 
surface, but as quickly as possible envelop every part of the 
injury from all access of the air, laying one or two more pieces 
of wadding on the first, so as effectually to guard the burn or 
scald from the irritation of the atmosphere; and if the article 
used is wool or cotton, the same precaution, of adding more 
material where the surface is thinly covered, must be adopted ; 
a light bandage finally securing all in their places. Any of the 
popular remedies recommended below may be employed when 
neither wool, cotton, nor wadding are to -be procured, it being 
always remembered that that article which will best exclude the 
air from a burn or scald is the best, quickest, and least painful 
mode of treatment. And in this respect nothing has surpassed 
cotton loose or attached to paper as in wadding. 

If the skin is much injured in burns, spread some linen 
pretty thickly with chalk ointment, and lay over the part, and 



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COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 215 

give the patient some brandy and water if much exhausted ; then 
send for a medical man. If not much injured, and very pain- 
ful, use the same ointment, or apply carded cotton dipped in lime 
water and linseed oil. If you please, you may lay cloths dipped 
in ether over the parts, or cold lotions. Treat scalds in same 
manner, or cover with scraped raw potato ; but the chalk oint- 
ment is the best. In the absence of all these, cover the injured 
part with treacle, and dust over it plenty of fiour. 

Body in Flames — Lay the person down on the floor of 
the room, and throw the table cloth, rug, or other large cloth 
over him, and roll him on the floor. 

Dirt in the Eye — Place your fore-finger upon the cheek- 
bone, having the patient before you ; then slightly bend the finger, 
this will draw down the lower lid of the eye, and you will 
probably be able to remove the lirt; but if this will not enable 
you to get at it, repeat this operation while you have a netting- 
needle or bodkin placed over the eyelid ; this will turn it inside 
out, and enable you to remove the sand, or eyelash, etc., with 
the corner of a fine silk handkerchief. As soon as the substance 
is removed, bathe the eye with cold water, and exclude the light 
for a day. If the inflammation is severe, let the patient use a 
refrigerant lotion. 

Lime in the Eye — Syringe it well with warm vinegar and 
water in the proportion of one ounce of vinegar to eight ounces 
of water, exclude light. 

Iron or Steel Spiculae in the Eye — These occur while turn- 
ing iron or steel in a lathe, and are best remedied by doubling 
back the upper or lower eyelid, according to the situation of the 
substance, and with the flat edge of a silver probe, taking up 
the metallic particle, using a lotion made by dissolving six grains 
of sugar of lead and the same of white vitriol, in six ounces of 
water, and bathing the eye three times a day till the inflamma- 
tion subsides. Another plan is — Drop a solution of sulphate of 
copper (from one to three grains of the salt to one ounce of 
water) into the eye, or keep the eye open in a wineglassful of 
the solution. Bathe with cold lotion, and exclude light to keep 
down inflammation. 

Dislocated Thumb — This is frequently produced by a fall. 
Make a clove hitch, by passing two loops of cord over the 
thumb, placing a piece of rag under the cord to prevent it cut- 



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COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 217 

ting the thumb ; then pull in the same line as the thumb. After- 
wards apply a cold lotion. 

Cuts and Wounds — Clean cut wounds, whether deep or 
superficial, and likely to heal by the first intention, should always 
be washed or cleaned, and at once evenly and smoothly closed by 
bringing both edges close together, and securing them in that 
position by adhesive plaster. Cut thin strips of sticking plaster, 
and bring the parts together; or if large and deep, cut two broad 
pieces, so as to look like the teeth of a comb, and place one on 
each side of the wound, which must be cleaned previously. 
Thes6 pieces must be arranged so that they shall interlace one 
another, then, by laying hold of the pieces on the right side with 
one hand, and those on the other side with the other hand, and 
pulling them from one another, the edges of the wound are 
brought together without any difficulty. 

Ordinary cuts are dressed by thin strips, applied by press- 
ing down the plaster on one side of the wound, and keeping 
it there and pulling in the opposite direction ; then suddenly de- 
pressing the hand when the edges of the wound are brought 
together. 

Contusions are best healed by laying a piece of folded 
lint, well wetted with extract of lead, or boracic acid, on the 
part, and, if there is much pain, placing a hot bran poultice over 
the dressing, repeating both, if necessary, every two hours. 
When the injuries are very severe, lay a cloth over the part, and 
suspend a basin over it filled with cold lotion. Put a piece of 
cotton into the basin, so that it shall allow the lotion to drop 
on the cloth, and thus keep it always wet. 

Hemorrhage, when caused by an artery being divided or 
or jerks, and being of a bright scarlet color. If a vein is injured 
torn, may be known by the blood issuing out of a wound in leaps 
or jerks, and being of a bright scarlet color. If a vein is injured, 
the blood is darker and flows continuously. To arrest the latter, 
apply pressure by means of a compress and bandage. To arrest 
arterial bleeding, get a piece of wood (part of a broom handle 
will do), and tie a piece of tape to one end of it; then tie a piece 
of tape loosely over the arm, and pass the other end of the wood 
under it; twist the stick round and round until the tape com- 
presses the arm sufficienfly to arrest the bleeding, and then con- 
fine the other end by tying the string around the arm. A com- 
press made by enfolding a penny piece in several folds of lint 



218 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

or linen should, however, be first placed under the tape and 
over the artery. If the bleeding is very obstinate, and it occurs 
in the arm, place a cork underneath the string, on the inside of 
the fleshy part, where the artery may be felt beating by any one ; 
if in the leg, place a cork in the direction of a line drawn from 
the inner part of the knee towards the outer part of the groin. 
It is an excellent thing to accustom yourself to find out the 
position of these arteries, or, indeed, any that are superficial, 
and to explain to every person in your house where they are, and 
how to stop bleeding. If a stick cannot be got take a handkerchief, 
make a cord bandage of it, and tie a knot in the middle; the 
knot acts as a compress, and should be placed over the artery, 
while the two ends are to be tied around the thumb. Observe 
always to place the ligature between the wound and the heart. 
Putting your finger into a bleeding wound, and making pressure 
until a surgeon arrives, will generally stop violent bleeding. 

Bleeding from the Nose, from whatever cause, may gen- 
erally be stopped by putting a plug of lint into the nostrils; if 
this does not do, apply ^ cold lotion to the forehead ; raise the 
head, and place over it both arms, so that it will rest on the hands ; 
dip the lint plug, slightly moistenel, into some powdered gum 
arable, and plug the nostrils again ; or dip the plug into equal 
parts of powdered gum arabic and alum, and plug the nose. 
Or the plug may be dipped in Friar's balsam, or tincture of kino. 
Heat should be applied to the feet ; and, in obstinate cases, the 
sudden shock of a cold key, or cold water poured down the spine, 
will often instantly stop the bleeding. If the bowels are con- 
fined take a purgative. Injections of alum solution from a small 
syringe into the nose will often stop hemorrhage. 

Violent Shocks will sometimes stun a person, and he will 
remain unconscious. Untie strings, collars, etc. ; loosen any- 
thing that is tight, and interferes with the breathing; raise the 
head; see if there is bleeding from any part; apply smelling- 
salts to the nose, and hot bottles to the feet. 

In. Concussion, the surface of the body is cold and pale, 
and the pulse weak and small, the breathing slow and gentle, and 
the pupil of the eye generally contracted or small. You can 
get an answer by speaking loud, so as to arouse the patient. 
Give a little brandy and water, keep the place quiet, apply 
warmth, and do not raise the head ton hicjh. Tf 3'ou tickle 
the feet the patient feels it. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 219 

In Compression of the Brain from any cause, such as 
apoplexy, or a piece of fractured bone pressing on it, there is 
loss of sensation. If you tickle the feet of the injured person 
he does not feel it. You cannot arouse him so as to get an 
answer. The pulse is slow and labored ; the breathing deep, 
labored, and snorting; the pupil enlarged. Raise the head, loosen 
strings or tight things, and send for a surgeon. If one cannot 
be got at once, apply mustard poultices to the feet and thighs, 
leeches to the temples, and hot water to the feet. 

Choking — When a person has a fish bone in the throat, 
insert the forefinger, press upon the root of the tongue, so as 
to induce vomiting; if this does not do, let him swallow a large 
piece of potato or soft bread; and if these fail, give a mustard 
emetic. 

Fainting, Hysterics, Etc. — Loosen the garments, bathe 
the temples with water or eau-de-Cologne ; open the window, 
admit plenty of fresh air, dash cold water on the face, apply 
hot bricks to the feet, and avoid bustle and excessive sympathy. 

Drowning — Attend to the following essential rules: — 1. 
Lose no time. 2. Handle the body gently. 3. Carry the body 
face downwards, with the head gently raised, and never hold it 
up by the feet. 4. Send for medical assistance immediately, 
and in the meantime act as follows : 5. Strip the body ; rub it 
dry, then wrap it in hot blankets, and place it in a warm bed in. 
a warm room. 6. Cleanse away the froth and mucus from the 
nose and mouth. 7. Apply warm bricks, bottles, bags of sand, 
etc., to the armpits, between the thighs, and to the soles of the 
feet. S. Rub the surface of the body with the hands inclosed in 
warm, dry worsted socks. 0. If possible, put the body into a 
warm bath. 10. To restore breathing, put the pipe of a com- 
mon bellows into one nostril, carefully closing the other, and 
the mouth ; at the same time drawing downwards, and pushing 
gently backwards, the upper part of the windpipe, to allow a 
more free admission of air; blow the bellows gently, in order 
to inflate the lungs, till the breast be raised a little; then set 
the mouth and nostrils free, and press gently on the chest; re- 
peat this until signs of life appear. The body should be cov- 
ered the moment it is. placed on the table, except the* face, and 
all the rubbing carried on under the sheet or blanket. When 
they can be obtained, a number of tiles or bricks should be 
made tolerably hot in the fire, laid in a row on the table, covered 



220 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

with a blanket, and the body placed in such a manner on them 
that their heat may enter the spine. When the patient revives, 
apply smelling-salts to the nose, give warm wine or brandy 
and water. Cautions — 1. Never rub the body with salt or 
spirits. 2. Never roll the body on casks. 3. Continue the 
remedies for hours without ceasing. 

Hanging — Loosen the cord, or whatever it may be by 
which the person has been suspended. Open the temporal artery 
or jugular vein, or bleed from the arm; employ electricity, if 
at hand, and proceed as for drowning, taking the additional pre- 
caution to apply eight or ten leeches to the temples. 

Apparent Death from Dunkenness — Raise the head; 
loosen the clothes, maintain warmth of surface, and give a mus- 
tard emetic as soon as the person can swallow. 

Apoplexy and Fits Generally — Raise the head; loosen all 
tight clothes, strings, etc. ; apply cold lotions to the head, which 
should be shaved; apply leeches to the temples, bleed, and send 
for a surgeon. 

Suffocation from Noxious Gases, Etc. — Remove to the 
fresh air; dash cold vinegar and water in the face, neck, and 
breast; keep up the warmth of the body; if necessary, apply 
mustard poultices to the soles of the feet and to the spine, and 
try artificial respirations as in drowning, with electricity. 

Lightning and Sunstroke — Treat the same as apoplexy. 

For an Ideal Medical Outfit — One can purchase First Aid to 
the Injured Packets, ranging in price from 25c to $5, which 
cover almost any emergency which may arise on exploring 
trips, in the woods or camp. 




COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 221 



What Medicine Do We Need 

Man seldom wanders so far in search of health, or finds 
it in such abundance, but what he has occasion to turn 
to physic for relief from some real or imaginary ill. 

Every camp should be provided with a medicine-chest, 
containing such articles as are most likely to be required 
in the ailments of camp-life. This chest may be made six 
inches wide, ten inches long and six inches deep. It should 
contain the following articles, well labeled, and separated 
by corrugated paper to prevent breakage: 

No. 1. Anti-malarial pills. Each pill contains: 

Quinia, bisulphate, 2 grains; 

Ferri Ferrocyanidi, 1 grain 100 

No. 2. Fluid Extract of Gelsemium 1 ounce 

No. 3. Compound cathartic pills (improved) .. .100 

No. 4. Pond's Extract 8 ounces 

No. 5. Vaseline (carbolized) 2 ounces 

No. 6. Roller bandages, 2-inch 6 

No. 7. Small scissors 1 pair 

No. 8. Surgeon's silk 1 skein 

No. 9. Surgeon's needles . . . . < 2 

No. 10. Rubber adhesive plaster 4 yards 

No. 11. Soap liniment 4 ounces 

No. 12. Antipyrin pills (5 grains) 100 

No. 13. R. Tinct. Opii. Camph. oz. iii. 

Spts. Ammo. Arom., oz. i. 

Magnesia (Husband's) oz. i. 

Aq. Menth. pap. q drs. iv. 

•Teaspoonful in water every three hours. 

No. 14. Lint 2 yards 

No. 15. Hypodermic syringe and contents. 



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222 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 223 

TRAPPERS CRAFT 

No man can be a successful trapper if he neglects to ob- 
serve and study out the habits and peculiarities of animals. 
He must wait, watch, learn, so as to meet cunning with 
skill; he must acquire knowledge by experience and observa- 
tion. They are a hundred times more crafty, patient, ob- 
serving and woods-wise than he. They know what he doesn't 
— ever}'- nook and crook, stone, path, log, gully, water or 
run<v\'ay. They are familiar with every twist, turn, rock, 
bend, clump of woods, patch of brush, high or low place, 
shade and color of ground, all the hidden ways and the con- 
cealed places: they can disguise their scent or trail, and you 
can't; they learn your \yays, and you don't learn theirs; they 
realize your faults and imperfections, and study out your 
habits and peculiarities, and, in order to play the game right, 
you must meet every move of theirs, and play the game as 
do they. If you are willing and able, go to it, and you are 
apt to become a fair trapper, and by sticktoitiveness become 
a good one. You must learn about baited traps, blind traps, 
snares, lures, decoys,- old and new sets, and the trick of in- 
venting others, scheming up all sorts of ideas and tricks 
to fool them, and last but not least be mighty careful to 
cover up your own hoof marks; you must study their ways, 
their routes, their dispositions; be observing of every little 
sign you perceive; study their dens, retreats, watering places 
feeding spots, their coming out and their going in; get next 
to their habits, the foods they eat — their likes and dislikes. 
You must observe the seasonal changes of their methods, 
and follow the hint by changing yours; and about the time 
you think you know it all, you are only ready to commence 
getting the pelts with any degree of success, for even after a 
lifetime of experience almost, there is something to be 
learned, for like men, animals learn by experience and none 
of us know it all. 

There are many ways of setting a trap. One of them is 
to look carefully for trail or sign, and make a set in the 
most likely places — where the animal passes and repasses. 
Don't get in the habit of building or mussing up the location 
for some cute idea, because anything new, strange or un- 



224 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

familiar immediately makes them suspicious and wary. Try 
to leave everything exactly as it was or as you find it exactly. 
This monkey business, which some books recommend, makes 
good reading, but it doesn't catch furs. Most trapping is made 
difficult by the trapper himself, simply because he overdoes 
things; for instance, he gives more attention to traps than 
to the animals habits and their peculiar ways. If he was to 
put more time into the subject of the best and worst places, 
the right and wrong times and ways, and learn more about 
the power of scent, tracking, trailing and the like, he is 
likely to get furs, while otherwise he is not. No man can 
possibly excell or succeed in the trappers art unless he makes 
a thorough study of animal ways. A dozen traps in the 
hands of a careful man will do more than a hundred with 
a careless, shiftless one. It isn't your hut or outfit that 
makes trapping a success; it's your ability and intelligence. 
The best trappers I ever knew had the least and poorest 
outfit and the worst I ever saw had the best. No amount 
of ability to fix up around camp or winter hut cuts any 
figure — the whole trick is done on the line — there's the rub. 
Don't expect too much. Put nearly all your work into 
preparations, instead of figuring upon big catches. Get busy 
trying to get small ones, and you are apt to succeed beyond 
your expectations. Often a new hand at the game, by ex- 
ercising patience and care, will in a short time exceed that 
of even the more experienced ones by the simple plan of emu- 
lating his achievements, observing and avoiding his failures. 
When you find an animal has visited the vicinity of a trap, 
try and fathom out what was wrong. His tracks will tell 
the story. Try to reason out why you missed him, what 
was wrong and generally you will find out you were to blame, 
because he knew you had been around and had left danger 
signals about. The way some folks set traps is equivalent 
to posting up signs, "keep away," because they leave so very 
many of their own signs about that success is impossible. 
You can't be too careful as regards obliterating or hiding- 
all evidence of your having been there, or that a trap is laid 
for them. Ten to one they know you are around there and 
are very wary and suspicious, hence you must work so as 
to fool their eyes and nose both. An old Indian trick is to 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 225 

put the trap near some place where they positively must 
pass and where in order to pass they must go over them. 
These likely places are few and far between, but they of all 
are the ideal spots which you must always be on the lookout 
for. 



GOOD ANIMALS AND BAD ONES 

From time to time you read anecdotes of animals which 
go to show that they have an appreciation of right and 
wrong; that a dog, for example, has a conscience as tender 
as a child's, so far as his dog code goes, and we generally 
explain it by saying that they have been taught by man 
what they shall, or shall not do, and that therein lies the 
secret of the animal's consciousness of right and wrong. 

This is a mistake. All through the animal kingdom, the 
different classes of beasts, birds and reptiles live together 
in communities, and, as j'^ou learn at school, the first neces- 
sity of community life is the establishment of "law and 
order." This is true of man; and it is true of the animals as 
well. 

Crudely speaking, if, in a pack of wolves, there be one 
wolf that is unruly, he will be cut ofif from the society of 
his kind; he will be banished; but in wolfdom banishment 
means the taking of but one road — the "red road" down the 
throats of the judge and jurors. 

Rogues, Outcasts, Bachelors 

In India, the natives are so familiar with the fact that an 
insubordinate elephant will not be tolerated in his herd 
that they have given the name of "rogue elephant" to any 
one that is seen to "herd by himself." These "rogue ele- 
phants" are the most dangerous beasts of the forest: they 
are vicious by nature, and so quarrelsome that the king of 
the herd expels them, and from that day the outcasts can 
have no fellowship whatever with reputable elephants. 

They become more ugly and dangerous in disposition from 
their enforced solitude, and take to devising mischief from 



236 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

the very love of being bad. They are really criminal ani- 
mals, and are recognized as such by all of their race; no 
new herd will accept them. 

Lone Animals the Worst 

There were three of these dangerous elephants, not long 
ago, that jomed forces, and made it their regular pastime 
to go to, a certain roadway through the forest and waylay 
the natives. They were the terror of the country, for to be 
caught by the "rogues" was certain death, and there was a 
lon5 list of victims every month. 

At last, a regular hunt was instituted, and the three 
rogues w^ere killed. Their end was a just one, of course, for 
these beasts had been young, and had had their chance. 
They knew right from wrong, but were simply examples of 
the criminal element in animals grown predominant. 

Animals cast out by their kind are usually the most 
vicious or degenerate of the species — criminals, diseased 
and most treacherous. 

Among hunters there is a saying, "Beware of animals 
that are isolated from their herds." They are always the 
most dangerous, and these banished law-breakers are found 
among all the large, as well as the small game; bison, elk, 
deer, in this country; the rhinoceros and the hippopotamus 
in the hot climes. 

There are many criminals among dogs, especially among 
shepherd dogs. One in Australia, valued especially for his 
strength and for his fidelity to his own sheep, was finally 
discovered to be guilty of killing the sheep on a neighbor- 
ing ranch. At night he would sneak cff, break Into the 
other fold, and kill and suck the blood of sheep until he 
was satisfied. Then would come the cunning part of the 
performance. His coat would betray him, he knew, and so 
he would make a long circuit to a pond and wash and lick 
himself clean before he went home. 

There seems to be a set form of trial among crows and 
black birds. The members of the colony gather in a circle 
around the culprit, and actually try him. Sometimes he is 
evidently acquitted, but generally he is condemned, and is 
pecked to death. , 



CO'M'PLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 227 

In addition to these laws, by which an animal's duty to 
his neighbors is regulated, they have established rules for 
defense. When a flock of ducks are feeding, one is always 
left on guard. While their heads are under water, the sen- 
tinel is supposed to be listening and watching, and on the 
first sign of danger, he gives the warning note, a whistle; 
or, if the danger be imminent, he gives a cry that means 
"fly at once." This is true of birds, too; they all have a 
sentinej, and he never eats until his watch is up. 

Two instances may be cited to show that animals some- 
times think on matters not at all in the line of their instinct. 
One is that of Cowper's dog. Beau. The poet was one day 
walking with the dog on the bank of a pond, when he saw, 
lying on the water, a lily that he tried to reach and pull 
in shore with his stick, but though he tried again and again, 
he failed; and so walked on. 

On their way back, when they came to the spot. Beau 
stopped, looked at his master and then at the lily, and finally 
jumped -into the water, tore up the lily by the root, and 
brought it ashore and laid it at his master's feet. 

The second case is that of a dog that I knew, named 
Rex. He was a huge mastiff, and was a pet with every one on 
the place. It was a common remark in the family that 
Rex "understood every word that was spoken in his hearing." 

Unfortunately, when Rex grew old, he became a victim 
to disease, and a discussion as to chloroforming him took 
place while he was in the room. He sat and watched his 
mistress' face, while she, forgetting that he "understood'^ 
said: 

"Poor Rex! We must do it." 

At that Rex got up and walked out of the room, and 
never returned; nor was he heard of afterwards. Did he 
understand what was said? He had been listening to Eng- 
lish for sixteen years, and he certainly knew every expres- 
sion of the faces of those he loved. 

Indeed, I feel sure that animals judge largely by expres- 
sion and read in one's face their attitude, be it friendly or 
antagonistic, much as do we in a moving picture read what 
the silent lips express 'by actions — as per the old adage, 
actions speak louder than words. 



228 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



Habits and Peculiarities of Bears 

He is a queer animal. In his make-up there seems to be 
a combination of the characteristics of the human, the cat, 
the hog, the raccoon, the squirrel and several other animals. 
Though his natural method of locomotion is on all fours, 
he can walk upright almost as easily and steadily as a man, 





f*' Black Bear 



and there is something most laughably human in the way 
one of the big brutes will sit up on his haunches and reach 
a fat forepaw around to scratch his ribs. Often the bear 
displays an almost human intelligence in the manner in 
which he carefully evades traps and deadfalls set for his 
destruction. 



Skill of Trained Boxer 

With his fore paws the bear can strike a blow with the 
swiftness and skill of a trained boxer, and many is the 
woodsman who has found this out to his cost when he 
has tried to kill one of these animals with a stroke of an ax. 
One stroke of that great paw will ward off the mightiest 
blow, and another may send the wielder of the ax spinning 
twenty feet from the spot. A black bear will ascend a tree 
with the agility of a cat, and does so frequently to get the 
various nuts which form a choice bit of his diet. 

In general appearance the black bear resembles the hog 
more than any other animal. The head, with its round skull, 
shaip snout, pointed ears and bright and beady eyes, is 
primarily that of the hog, while a bear will eat anything 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 229 

a hog will. The bear roots about among the leaves in 
quest of nuts, enters orchards to eat the apples which have 
fallen on the ground, and, if they are not there, shakes 
the tree until the fruit comes tumbling down about his 
ears, wherein he has the advantage of the hog and resembles 
the human again. 

An Expert Fisherman 

More than one black bear has come to an untimely end 
because of his propensity for entering cornfields and eating 
the sweet corn from the stalks, a favorite occupation of the 
raccoon. Like the raccoon, too, he is an expert fisherman. 
He will lie full length on a log over some quiet pool and 
drop a bit of wood or ofifal of some sort in the water. He 
watches the bait with his small, bright eyes until some 
unsuspecting trout or chub comes up to investigate; then 
a quick swoop of one of those mighty paws lands the fish 
flopping on the bank and bruin makes a dainty meal. 

Hibernates in Winter 

When the cold frosts of fall arrive the black bear be- 
gins to think of a snug home during the winter months. 
He looks about until he finds the place that suits him. It 
may be in a hollow log. and, if the hollow is already the 
home of 'coons, bruin has no scruples about turning them 
out. If he can find a cave or deep cleft in the rocks he is 
equally well satisfied and will sleep full}^ as comfortable until 
warm weather comes again, while his waste tissues are re- 
placed by the great rolls of fat which cover his ribs as a 
result of the summer's foraging. 

Touch Awakens Him 

Frequently when a bear dens up beneath a blow-down 
or lies in a hollow log with his snout near the opening, 
the warmth of his breath melts a hole in the covering of 
the snow. This hole keeps growing larger until finally it 
becomes incrusted with ice and then remains a sort of chim- 



230 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




CQ 



£i 



CO^IPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 231 

ney or ventilator for bruin's bed chamber. Woodsmen fre- 
quently hnd these airholes in the snow, and upon investi- 
gation find bruin in his den. The animal is not so sound 
asleep that no noise will awaken him, yet the first touch 
on any part of his body brings him out of his sleep with a 
start. When thus aroused the bear is a wicked antagonist. 
A story is related of two woodsmen who found a bear in 
this manner a few years ago. 

They found the airhole and dug the snovv^ away. They 
walked and jumped on the log within which bruin was 
ensconed without arousing him. Then, looking in the hole 
in fhe trunk, one of the men saw the bear lying at full 
length, with his head resting on a paw and his snout toward 
the opening. The woodsman touched the bear's paw with 
his ax, and, like a flash, the' bear awoke, sent the ax flying 
out of the man's hand, and, with another rake of his paw 
laid open the woodsman's leg from knee to ankle. Of course, 
the beast had no chance, pinned as he was in the hollow 
trunk, but he was dangerous enough so that his captors took 
no cTiances with him. 



Extremely Crafty 

The cunning shown by bears in avoiding traps set for 
their destruction is often marvelous. They will often look 
askance at the most tempting bait and keep clear of the 
ste^l jaws, while at other times they will approach the trap 
gingerly, uncover the* wicked steel teeth, send the trap spin- 
ning with a cuff of the paw and then eat the bait at their 
leisure. They will enter the best-constructed pen, rip off 
the top logs and carry away the bait. 



Much-Maligned Animal 

The Maine black bear has been a much-maligned animal. 
Long observation by old hunters shows that the favorite food 
of the bear is vegetable. ni^t>, berries, roots, etc. The bear, will 
eat carrion when he finds it. and is particularly fond of putrid 



232 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

fish, which is used largely in baiting bear traps. Many com- 
plaints have been made by farmers in the northern and eastern 
parts of the state of bears, which have done great damage to 
their sheep flocks and the "farmers are right in their claims, for 
more than one bear has been killed wnth the damaging evidence 
of sheep murder strong upon him. 

However that may be, the old hunters say the bear is not 
naturally a killer of sheep. Once he gets the taste of fresh mut- 
ton he is likely to crave for it, but his first taste is excited by 
hunger, and a hungry bear is not particular about the manner 
in which he gets his food. 

A favorite food of the black bear is insects, such as ants 
and grubs. To get these the bear will pull to pieces every rot- 
ten stump he comes across. These evidences of the bear's grub- 
bing are found in every part of the Alaine woods. When the 
bear finds a stump about which the grubs and ants are running 
in hundreds he lies down beside it, then, poking his snout into 
the warm, rotten wood, he lets the insects run all over his snout 
and licks them off with his long tongue. When the available 
supply has been exhausted bruin pulls the stump apart until he 
has finished the last of the insects. 

Most bears as a rule will run rather than fight, unless cor- 
nered. This big brute, with all his strength, formidable teeth 
and claws prefers running to fighting on almost all occasions. 
He is found in every county in the state except the most south- 
erly ones west of Penobscot bay, but is, of course, most numerous 
in those sections where deer, moose and elk are also found 
in greatest numbers. 

The black bear is very common, and is found through- 
out the United States and in the British Provinces. He 
is easily trapped by the large Newhouse bear trap, or the 
small bear trap. We have seen yearlings, and one two-year- 
old bear caught by the No. 4 trap when used with a clog. 
The log bear trap is also used, but its construction makes 
it so troublesome that the steel trap is much more de- 
sirable. In the summer the black bears are found in the 
coolest parts of the woods. They often hunt for food dur- 
ing the day, but generally prowl around at night. Some- 
times the black bear will get caught in a small trap set for 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 233 

other animals; when caught, he goes from one tree to another, 
pounding them with the trap until he is free. When the lirst 
snow comes, the black bear begins to wander about in 
search of a cave to hibernate in. At such times it is best 
to follow up a fresh trail, for -you invariably run bruin 
into his den, and traps may then be set near by, which will 
catch him the first warm day he comes out." When set- 
ting a steel trap for a bear, use a heavy clog in preference 
to ^e grapple; the latter is an awkward thing to carry, 
or have about camp; it is always poking some one in the 
ribs in a canoe or coat, or tripping one when moving about. 
When a trapped animal is dragging a grapple through a 
rough country, it will often catch fast, causing the animal 
to gnaw its foot off. The clog should be rounded at one 
end, so as to slide easily along, but should be very heavy 
go that the animal will tire in dragging it. 

A piece of fresh venison, a rabbit or a hare, makes a 
good bait for the black bear. Where "sign" is seen, set the 
trap if possible in an open place in the woods, and lay it 
in a shallow hole scooped in the ground for the purpose; 
cover the trap lightly with leaves, and entirely conceal the 
log and chain with any material which can be most easily 
obtained. A few scraps of meat may be scattered about 
near the trap, and the bait should be suspended over it. 
It is a good way to rig a trap with two baits, as follows: 
Have one large bait hanging about seven feet above the 
trap, and a smaller one about three feet over it; in cold 
weather, baits do not throw much scent, and the lower one 
will attract bruin's notice, and that will call his attention 
to the big bait, which he is bound to have if possible. 
Never use small baits. When tramping around, visit places 
where deer or elk have been dressed, and look for "sign," 
it will often lead to the capture of many animals, for in elk 
countries, where bears are plentiful, they feast on the car- 
casses, and lots of other animals follow about in these places. 
Perhaps Jackson's Hole, Wyoming, is the best place in the 
world today to hunt either elk or bear, and on my guiding 
trips I even today can guarantee elk and bear in season, 
and have taken out many fine heads and large bear skins 
as trophies. 



234 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




In a Tight Place. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 235 

HUNTING AND TRAPPING THE BEAR 

Go to that part of the wood that is frequented by bears 
and cut some logs about six feet long. Lay three of them 
down parallel, occupying a space of about six feet wide 
from outside to outside. Then lay other logs across, these 
close together, as you would lay a corduroy-road, and pin 
them down to the sleepers thoroughl3^ They lay up four 
sides, cob-house fashion, two feet high, thoroughly pinned 
together, with a door cut in one side, two and a half feet 
wide. This is the bottom half of the trap. Xow build a 
similar box, that, when turned upside down, will slide into 
the bottom one, so that the space will not be above eight 
or ten inches when they are dropped together. Xow cut 
a log of wood, say twelve inches through and twenty feet 
long, and pin the top box directly across the end of this. 
Support the beam across a log in such a way that the box 
can be moved up and down, so as to open or rise out of the 
bottom and make a space of three feet. Set this with a 
standard and spindle baited with a chunk of some kind of 
fresh meat, daubed with honey, honey and oil of anise being 
at the same time Avell smeared over the inside of the trap. 
The heft of the top house and beam, when sprung, should 
be enough to crush any bear that might chance that" way. 
Another good wa}^ to catch a bear when he has been com- 
mitting depredations on a hog or other farm animals is to 
set a big steel trap in a spring hole or swampy place, put- 
ting a natural looking bit of moss on the pan for him to 
step on, and hanging a bait of the dead animal where he 
can only get it by going over the trap. 

It is a good way to hunt the bear with a dog that under- 
stands him, and will only nip him in the hams. This will 
soon cause him to tree, and he is a pretty good climber 
for so large an' animaL He climbs almost exactly as a 
man does, but if you are careless about going up to the 
tree to shoot him, he will come down not exactly like a 
man. He puts his arms around the tree, and lets go and 
comes down with a big scrape or slip, striking the ground 
with hit butt sufficient to make him bound three feet high. 
But he is ready to be off, and you have lust your shot. So 
be careful and go up slyly and shoot him out. 



236 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



THE SENSE OF DIRECTION 

There has been many volumes written on this subject, 
and it seems to me that the more that has been written 
the more perplexing has the subject become; hence the 
reader will surely not deny me the right to add my little 
"mite" to the seemingly inexhaustible fund on these sub- 
jects, too. The time will soon come when my manuscript 
and I part company, and my few words pass out to a 
world which gives credit to those who merited and con- 
signs to oblivion those who don't. I feel that my encour- 
agement will be in proportion, at least, to my achievements. 
Difficulties surmounted gives strength — hardships they 
toughen, but it is intelligence that uplifts. And it is these 
traits that I claim for the bird and animal I dedicate these 
pages to. And if I can make my words prove to the world 
that the "dumb creatures" we call them have intelligences 
and perceptions akin to mine I shall at least have gained 
the object uppermost in my life, and be content, for I will 
by it have given back to them much that I have robbed 
them of, and in a way made amends for a life that was 
forced upon me. more by necessity than choice. To this 
end I shall now endeavor in as few words as possible, try 
to explain that so-called mysterious sense of direction which 
governs the laws of flight and migration of bird and insect 
life. 

Elsewhere in this volume I have tried to point out the 
general habits, intelligences and perceptions of the creatures 
who dwell and exist with us in a wild state; those we prey 
upon, whether rightfully or not. This I shall leave the 
reader to judge of later. 

Primitive man in days gone by worshiped certain ani- 
mals—others birds— still more the Sun, or the Stars; the 
reason why has been attributed to ignorance and supersti- 
tion; these were the Gods which they esteemed the most, 
and one of the reasons they worshiped them thus was be- 
cause of their wonderful doings, and the mysteries concern- 
ing them, some of which I will try to explain now. 

Elsewhere in this book I have told our readers of the 
property rights of animals and birds who regard from 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 237 

generation to generation among them, claim to certain 
regions and districts as their home, and that they strive 
to maintain these property or district rights, and only yield 
to man's usurpation of them, or give up to the stronger. 
Assuming this is the case, it is but fair to concede to them 
the intelligence necessary to familiarize them with their 
surroundings, be it where it may, the creature, bird or ani- 
mal. 

Xow if this fact is conceded it is obvious that their 
intelligence and perceptive faculties are sufficient to ob- 
serve that when the sun' rises it is warm and light, "AND 
THAT THIS WARMTH AND LIGHT ALWAYS 
COMES FROM A SIMILAR DIRECTION AND TIME" 
and thus gradually do they acquire the sense of direction, 
as far as the rising sun is concerned, and like primitive, 
or, as the scriptures quote, "it serveth them well." 

This is perhaps their first lesson in the sense of direc- 
tion; admitting this is true, we cannot deny that they are 
equally observant THAT THE SUN SETS IN THE OP- 
POSITE DIRECTION, and with it comes darkness and 
quietude. This constitutes their second lesson, as we shall 
later see. 

That they recognize these things is to be admitted, for 
do they not by the Law of Nature govern their movements 
by them, just as we do? Thus observation familiarizes 
them with what IS KNOWN TO US AS EAST AND 
WEST, and becomes indelibly impressed upon memory. 

If we admit this, is it not fair and reasonable to assume 
that they soon recognize and distinguish between temper- 
able and seasonable changes, as, for instance, the direction 
from which comes the COLD NORTHERN WINDS, OR 
THE WARM SOUTHERN BREEZES, and granting this 
as so, does not thus the FOUR CARDINAL POINTS OF 
THE COMPASS BECOME RECOGNIZED BY ANI- 
MAL AND BIRD LIFE, as it was and is by primitive, 
savage and civilized man even unto today. 

Surely we cannot deny this. They have eyes, ears, scent 
and feeling, corresponding senses numerically, mind you, 
and now, reader, bear with me, be patient, for it is an animal 
virtue that has made them wise in their ways, and similar 



238 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

exercise has served even the best of us, and well, when fol- 
lowing or studying new things. 

Assuming, then, that a bird or animal in time familiarizes 
itself with such things, we cannot help but admit but that 
they are enabled to verify direction, other than this, just 
as we do by the Sun. In other words, supposing the wind 
blew from the northeast, or the southwest, would not the 
position of the Sun show them which was true north or 
south; thus does the Sun verify these opposite directions 
in the same way as I have explained, that scent verifies 
sight. 

Granting these few points, it is but another step in the 
sense of directions now, and from here on the reader should 
not pass over my lines too lightly; better be it if he read 
between them, for I doubt not but what by this time you 
have anticipated what is yet to come. 

In the migrations of birds and animals both we note 
they travel mostly north and south, and we must admit that 
temperature and winds, or the sense of feeling, plays an 
important part in enabling them to judge and verify these 
directions to a large extent, and that this sense is increased 
and verified again by sight, or by KNOWLEDGE AND 
OBSERVATION OF THE RISING AND SETTING 
SUN (our east and west), and that this knowledge and 
observation is memorized or increased as their age, habit, 
experience and intelligence grows, even as you and I profit 
and learn thereby. 

For as intelligence varies in man, and increases with age, 
habit and experience, so does it with bird and animal life, 
who learn and profit by the experience and emulation of 
others' achievements, and avoiding their failures, just as 
we do. Theirs is not a life of personal or individual experi- 
ment, but of habit, by which each specie acquires the percept- 
ive faculties and trace of others of their kin or tribe who have 
gone before them, and left them that heritage since the sun 
'shone and the wind blew. 

As proof of this and other intelligences which I attrib- 
ute rightfully to birds and animals who migrate, we notice 
that when these migrations take place that both flocks and 
herds are led by older, experienced ones of their kind, 
whom it is but fair to assume have covered the route be- 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 239 

fore, being led b}^ their ancestors; thus, mark ye, are these 
leaders doubly sure. 

It is not for me to repeat what I have written before 
as to the sense of direction so observant in animal migra- 
tion, or to point out any similarities, for I attribute to ani- 
mal life the same characteristics which govern their migra- 
tions to a proportionate degree. 

They learn the higher altitudes and come down to the 
lower with seasonable similarity, just as they do the re- 
verse, conditions and circumstances always governing; by 
the same token do they travel north and south, or east and 
west,* as the case may be. 

They have their language and signs, expression, scent, 
sight, hearing and feeling, and can distinguish between sun- 
rise, sunset, cold and warm winds, changes of temperature 
and land-marks as we know. They can foretell the time 
'of day in a way (whether early or late), anticipate changes 
in the weather, compute distances of travel, recognize places, 
select leaders, form for protection against attack, post senti- 
nels or scouts, guides, use signals, signs, undertake distant 
loijg journeys or short ones, live in locations, communities, 
recognize by scent their kin, neighbors, tribes, distinguish 
enemies from friends, strangers from acquaintances, recog- 
nize property and territory rights, smell water from long 
distances, recognize by scent what the eye cannot see, dis- 
tinguish and find medical plants from the poisonous ones, 
educate, foster, rear and instruct their young, perceive the 
various differences between trees, birds, plants, insects, rep- 
tiles, punish enemies, defend the weak, combine for the chase, 
indulge in love, war, feats of strength, skill or speed, act in 
concert with each other, or go it alone; think, reason, plan, 
remember, lure, deceive, coax, intimidate, imitate, threaten 
or appeal. They can see better in their own element than 
we can, smell better, hear better, feel better, and make them- 
selves better understood than we can comprehend; have a 
code of honor in certain lines, equivalent to our own in 
some ways, and which is perhaps none the less effective. 

They have their outcasts, robbers, murderers, bands, 
workers, slaves, kings, queens, republics, autocrats and per- 
haps democrats, fools and wise ones, strong and weak, defi- 
cient and progressive, can do things we cannot, and can 



240 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

learn from us as we do from them; they understand us in 
a way in many cases better than we can them, despite the 
fact that we call them dumb, ignorant, foolish brutes, sim- 
ply because they can't speak or understand our language, or 
do things as well as we do. Yet dumb as they appear to 
be, they meet us half-way in very many instances, and in 
their own way or elements show a capacity for getting along, 
and avoiding us in spite of all our efforts to subdue master 
or exterminate, contesting us in every step we take on 
these lines, even disputing our rights of imposition on their 
territory to the bitter end, reserving memory, endurance 
and rapidity of flight, enabling it to easily cover what 
means to us immense distances in a short period of time, 
owing to straight aerial flight, and the patience and per- 
sistence peculiar to its kind, which, if continued, as it is 
often the case, for weeks to a time, is almost certain to 
produce results. 

If we take a pencil and paper and figure out carefully 
what these enormous distances which it can cover in a 
week's time really means we can easily see how the obser- 
vation or finding of one's single familiar land-mark, birds- 
eye view, known spot or location familiar to it, its object 
of search is verified, and if correct its work is accomplished, 
but it can then easily return to its proper home, haunts 
and kin. 

On the other hand, if continued search in spite of pa- 
tience, persistence and determined effort it still fails, then 
it is indeed lost in all the name implies, and must either 
succumb to its enemies or adapt itself to new conditions, 
and start life again, practically anew. The one thing that 
rarely happens, I assure you, urtless the hand or cunning 
of man interferes. 

In this connection I desire the readers to understand 
that it is not my claim that neither birds nor animals get 
lost, for the facts are they do, even if seldom. 

So far, I believe, I have in a way convinced the reader 
the intelligence of migratory anim.als and birds, suffice to 
enable them to distinguish between night from day, sunrise 
from sunset, cold winds from warm, and, if so, has it not 
learned what is known to us as n., s., e. and w. or the four 
cardinal points of our compass, used in our navigation? If 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 241 

so, it is but a step further to another thing of equal im- 
portance, which, while we may have overlooked, we cannot 
deny — i. e., that the perception of time and distance is pos- 
sible. 

It has been observed that during the periods that cover 
migrations in seasonable flights that birds and animals in- 
variably travel by periodical stages, arriving and departing 
with certain regularit}^ — choosing moonlight nights, clear 
or favorable winds or weather, and alternating their flights 
by day or night travel, or both; and that they can judge 
when conditions are favorable we have ^very proof, because 
if so 'they make long journeys and if not short ones, or none 
at all. Almost any sportsman will verify this. Accordingly 
do they govern their flights, and even time their efforts to 
reach certain places. They also time their periods of flight, 
distance, feeding and resting, gather for the starts, gauge 
the length and distance of their flights and stops; all per- 
fectly timed to meet conditions, traveling long and continu- 
ously to reach certain favorable conditions and avoiding the 
unfavorable or dangerous ones — even to departing from the 
true course of flight whenever necessary to reach certain 
spots favorable to feeding and resting, as we know — start- 
ing later from them, and wheeling into ihe true course again 
with rare skill and intelligence both. Granting this, we see 
that they are capable of judging time, place and distance, 
or rotation, and even of renewing the true course of direc- 
tion again. What could be greater proof of the powers of 
observation, intelligence and reasoning power than this? 

Now then, how many are there who read these pages 
have noticed these periodical flights, and that they at times 
assume different lines or formations, which are sometimes 
attributed to the letters "a," "v," "s," etc., etc? 

Take, for instance, ducks and geese, and then we no- 
tice these formations particularly; all of which are gov- 
erned to circumstances and conditions, and the regions they 
traverse; older birds leading, and stronger birds to wind- 
wards always. Thus the young are not only protected by 
the ciders and guided by them, but from the elements as 
well, and in a measure safe from attack or scattering when 
passing through regions where hawks, eagles or hunters 
abound. Hence, these formations are often in exact ac- 



242 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

cordance to the protecting lines thrown out, and the num- 
ber of older birds who take such position, and we must not 
lose sight of the fact that when so arrang-ed they are also 
formed for the purpose of keeping together stragglers, for 
resisting the force of the wind, and other similar objects, 
and if we observe them closely we find that they even change 
places when conditions change, such as I have described. 

Still more is the fact that during these flights the lead- 
ers seem to be governed by the majority, and that the 
movement and cries we hear in these flocks are indications 
of their desire or vote to either rest, stop, go on, or keep 
together — cries of encouraging, warning or complaint, and 
that when there is no cause of them there is no such cries, 
simply practically silent, straight flight. 

Indeed, from hind end to fore, center to flank, there is 
guides, sentinels, leaders and rear guards even: not only 
at this but at times scouts are sent out ahead to find suitable 
resting and feeding spots, and to await the coming of the 
flock, or head them off — movements that today and ages 
have been employed by primitive Man, Savage, Esquimaux 
and Indian, and even to the military, as we know. Down 
to the present time, and readers will perhaps see why birds 
and animals have been worshiped by the savage since the 
sun shone, and the winds blew. A worship attributed to 
the intelligences they possessed, or in many things such 
as this, observed in both bird and animal life, have and do 
vv^e even yet profit by still. 

Finally, I will call attention to the lesser flights which 
we often see following in the rear of larger ones; these are 
generally slower, younger or older birds, who retard the 
larger flocks, and are thus told off or relegated to the rear 
of the main body, but who nevertheless are under the lead- 
ership, guidance and protection of others of its kind, who 
stay with them, and who travel by shorter and slower stages. 

As to the size of these flocks, and their numbers, the.-y 
depend largel.v on the location they mhabit, for as they 
combine Avith flocks so do they split up in communities 
when they reach certain distance: eaph proceeding to its 
own location and haunts, just as does a military organiza- 
tion when the}^ reach their homes, if I may use such com- 
parative terms. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 243 

Thus are the size of flocks governed by region and num- 
ber which inhabit a given location — many of whom join 
larger flocks in their flights, while others travel by them- 
selves, the whole depending largely upon circumstances and 
conditions which govern all things. 

That there are even desertions from these flocks in 
squads, pairs and stragglers, we are equally certain; for, 
mind you, there are good, bad and indifferent, lazy even 
among birds and animals, you know. 

Thus knowledge and landmarks will aid and point out 
the way for us — true — but not for our birds, because as yet 
he has learned them not; ours, too, is a winding way — his 
shall be straight flight, so w^e need not fear he will learn 
our ways or route, for he needs it not, and mark ye, he 
will accomplish in days what man with all his boasted in- 
telligence has yet failed to — aerial straight flight. 

And now for the test of skill, for we have gone as far 
as we are able. The cold north winds, icy seas and moun- 
tains block our progress, and we must haste lest the ele- 
ments bid us stay, darkness and cold imprison us, for here 
in these regions have I spent many seasons myself, and 
know by experience whereof I speak. 

Bring hither the bird, see that he is fitted for the jour- 
ney, lightly fed and given drink, for mark ye, as the Sav- 
age or Indian, Animal or Bird travels far, he travels light, 
and right — that in his journey he can go fast and find his 
way as he finds his food, drink and rest as he goes along, 
for on such a journey he needs but little, especially when 
the way is strange to him and his mental powers are taxed 
as is his strength. 

Now let us wish him God's speed; it is a long, wearj^ 
distant flight, and our hearts beat lest he fail, for kindness 
is there, and the act seems cruel like. He, too, flutters and 
trembles in our hands, for he knows not our intentions, 
yet he fears not, and is anxious for liberty. 

Cast him loose, and he is gone; a tremulous flight, 
true, but he hastens; now watch him and see his flight 
grows more steady; but he is headed wrong, straight up 
in the face of the cold north wind he flies, on and up- 
ward still. Why is this? Our group of eyes, hands and 
voices all point and clamor in confusion, but see, now he 



244 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

turns and circles wider still. Watch him closely; true, he 
acts strangely, but we must be patient, for all is strange 
and new to him, yet fear not, he has traveled long before, 
and in his flights has seen mountain heights and snow, and 
felt the temperature of cold north winds before. 

See how he circles; wider and higher still they grow 
— proof he is confused, perplexed by the strange, unfa- 
miliar sights which appear in turn before his telescopic eye: 
how far or what he sees or feels we only can guess, BUT 
THE SAME RISING SUN IS THERE BEFORE HIM, 
AND THE SAME COLD NORTH WIND BLOWS, as 
shown and was felt in his distant home. 'Tis but a few 
minutes since we cast him loose, yet to us it seems like 
hours. Now observe, for he bears away, not true south, 
but yonder distant mountains which bars the way whence 
we cam.e and caused us to turn aside stands in his way. 

Fainter grows the dim spot — in the distance it fades 
away and is lost to our sight — gone. 

Will it succeed? Only one is there who knows. Him, 
whom we have been taught sees, watches and knows all 
things. 

Now we will turn aside and take up the subject again, 
as to the sense of direction in other ways, and seek to explain 
the mystery further in the interval which must pass, for 
our bird to find its home. 

I have, prior to this, pointed out how certain birds and 
animals obtain the first senses of direction by means of 
the rising and setting sun, and how they feel, for they are 
guided not only by sense of direction, as explained, but by 
experience, observation and landmarks, on which both sav- 
age and civilized man even depends. Nor is this leadership 
limited to any few, for as our observation of such things 
prove, old and young, experienced and inexperienced to 
an almost equal number participate in these flights to- 
gether, traveling by night, day or both, feeding, resting by 
moonlight or sunlight, alternately traveling by stages, and 
governing their movements with intelligence akin almost to 
our own displaying a knowledge of conditions, and taking 
advantages of wind and weather and routes such as is 
favorable, and avoiding the unfavorable ones for times, as 
does the veteran navigator, who has learned from experience. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 245 

just as did they, the art of anticipating storms, seasonable 
or temperature changes, as we are all aware; following, 
as has been observed, year after year, such routes contrary 
to the line of straight flight as may be necessary to reach 
resting or feeding grounds, reforming, passing, wheeling 
into line again with marvelous accuracy, and taking the 
proper directive course with almost human intelligence; 
passing and re-visiting these same resting places, year after 
year,^unto generations thereof. 

So much for migratory flights, dear reader, and as I 
perceive you would challenge my observations as to indi- 
vidual homing instincts or impulses I will endeavor to ex- 
plain even this considered impenetrable mystery, and if I 
have failed to convince you in a way as to some of the se- 
crets of migration I tremble lest I fail here, too, yet in 
neither would I weary of. 

Let us take our homing bird, provided it is but in the 
prime of life, and has learned already of the rising and 
setting sun, daylight and darkness, for if so, surely has it 
recognized in this time the northern chilly winds and the 
warm southern breezes which are alike the world over. It 
should be a fine, strong bird, which has been free before, 
for then it has traveled much about its home and learned 
many things of time and distant places which it has ob- 
served. 

True, we understand it not, its signs or language, but 
that it can tell such things to its own we know, for has 
it not profited by the experience of others of its kind before, 
and even now? 

That the test be unfair, we will even blindfold it if 
need be, but it is wrong — we should seek not to confuse 
or deceive, for this is neither love nor war, and in a test 
of skill all things should be equal. 

From the bird's home we will start and wind our way 
to the polar shores, as far as man hath reached in a thou- 
sand years, if you will; better still be it if we take along 
a companion, for the distance is long and lonesome and 
the task a difficult one, and by habit birds of this kind 
are social and helpful to each other. Again, two heads are 
better than one, and in this all birds and animals agree at 
times even. * * * YOU OBJECT; THEN VERY 



246 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

WELL— only' ONE SHALL MAKE THE JOURNEY. 

We will pass over the tribulations of our journey in 
the direction from which the cool north winds blow, and the 
time it takes to go that distance our compass and the sun 
shall serve to verify the way, made easier to us because 
man hath gone and traveled the way before. Observe and 
distinguish temperature and wind, and by these means do 
they become familiar with what is known to us as the in- 
dications of direction, north, south, east and .west. 

Now we will go a step further; experience in life also 
teaches them to anticipate the seasons, distinguish summer 
frolm winter, warmth from cold, and we have observed, too, 
that as the seasons appeared they migrated accordingly, 
being influenced by the susceptible change in atmospheric 
conditions, temperature again. Now, is not these things 
THE STANDARD OF ALL OUR OBSERVATIONS? 

Can we now, in the face of these facts, deny that bird 
and animal life is thus enabled to travel directly away from 
winter, towards summer, so to speak? If so, we must ad- 
mit that the birds can travel south, and at the same time be 
guided with the sun as by day and night, and to judge dis- 
tance, for we know that they gauge their flights and time their 
rests accordingly. We know, too, that altitudinal distances 
or differences are observable, and governed by their field 
of vision and flight. That their speed is rapid, and their 
flight is straight, and that they govern themselves according 
to the conditions of both wind and weather, as we know. 

We must also stop to consider that, as a rule, their flight 
is straight, and that they can often, cover six hundred to 
a thousand miles' straight flight per day, and we must also 
bear in mind that if the wind conditions are favorable that 
they take advantage of these things, just as does the sea- 
man or navigator. Savage or Indian, and that at these times 
the3'' do hardly stop for food or rest, but continue on so 
long as they are able to so travel. 

Now, with all these facts in mind it is not difficult to 
see how a bird can by these means travel immense distances 
in a short time, sufficient to enable it to reach within any 
certain sphere or temperature which by observation it could 
liken about to its own. Thus, when our bird was turned 
loose at first it circled long and wide, in the air, to get its 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 247 

true bearings, and to ascertain or better realize where it 
was, and to gradually gather its mental and physical com- 
posure, so as to form a correct idea as to the route it should 
follow. Gradually it became able to perceive that the wind 
was in the north, and that the morning sun, then rising, 
showed it the true east, while the snow-covered mountains 
brought to its mind the fact that it was in the regions of 
winter, and that it should go south — the direction of which 
was evidence evinced by the temperature and wind, and the 
approximate time of day was shown by the height of the 
sun; and there is no reason that can be advanced why ani- 
mals cannot distinguish these certain peculiar but regular 
indications of directions, or the time of day; not by the 
hour or clock time, like we, of course, but as does the Sav- 
age or Indian — by sight alone. Thus if they are accredited 
with such knowledge, conditions of temperature, direction 
and master of straight flight, it is not hard to see how they 
are enabled to in the first place take their true course of 
flight and head for home. 

Finally, by knowledge of this general direction, as ex- 
plained, when it has reached a certain altitude it searches 
far and wide for signs, places or land-marks familiar, to its 
memory, sight or scent; not at random here and there, 
as one would think, but with careful and deliberate inten- 
tion in alternate directions, rarely going over the samt* 
ground or flight the same time twice. 



SENSE OF DIRECTION IN ANIMAL LIFE 

In a way, I have tried my best to explain to the reader 
that much of the mysteries of Animal Life is due to the fact 
that inherited impulse and memory plays a very impor- 
tant part in governing all their movements, and I also claim 
that inherited memory is largely responsible for this so- 
called "Sense of Direction" which guides them in their mi- 
grations, or finding their way, both, and that its accomplish- 
ment is due largely to inherited memory, which prompts 
the observation of the directive points shown by sun and 
light and the sense of feeling, as explained. 



248 CO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

I feel equally positive that even at night, in their flights, 
they are guided by the general directive points indicated by 
evening twilight and morning daw^n. (It is well known 
that dark, cloudy nights do confuse them.) But that re- 
occurrence of light indications corrects their flight we are 
equally certain; shows proof of my claim that by inheritance 
do they possess or perceive knowledge of the particular 
directive points of the sun and light, and that this heredi- 
tary memory is largely responsible for their knowledge of 
correct direction in the first place, and, secondly, that re- 
tentive memory further aids them to seek their correct 
sphere or home by general knowledge of perceptions of the 
differences which characterize one locality from another, or 
one country from another. 

To us the world is large; but to them, birds especially, 
it is not so large after all. Their rapidity of flight and 
ability to travel is as marvelous as are their powers of dis- 
cernment, patience and will-power, equally so; hence, guided 
and influenced, as they are, by all these and other things, 
they find their way to places and perform seemingl}'- mar- 
velous feats, because for thousands of years habit has trained 
them to perform for themselves such accomplishments, and 
makes possible to them, unconsciously, what seems con- 
sciously impossible to us. 

Take, for instance, savages, old woodsmen, hunters, trap- 
pers, etc., more especially those who have descended from 
similar families, the}^ acquire, or inherit similar traits or 
powers; then sense of direction becomes a sort of inherited, 
natural trait, largely assisted by general knowledge or ob- 
servation of the sun and light directive points, directive 
winds, as well as by knowledge of the lay of the land. Its^ 
formation, flora, mountains and rivers, and so on ad in- 
finitum. 

And this memory, experience, habit, patience and dis- 
criminate observation serves as a natural aid to determine 
the same directive points which guide animals and birds 
during their passages, flights or migrations. Thus the 
homing-instinct of the passenger pigeon or bird who has 
the ability to fly two hundred miles for a breakfast worm 
stands a mighty good chance of finding its way home or 
back — a matter of a few thousand miles, if necessary, in 
a way equally as well; losing and finding its way perhaps 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 249 

in turn, but guided nevertheless by the same principles which 
guide us in our travels — that of observation. 

Again, it is absolutely certain that by a chance glance it 
could tell the peculiar characteristics of its own country 
from any foreign or different one by its formation or trend. 

Supposing, for instance, its own habitat from whence 
it first started was mountainous. It would avoid low lands 
and seek only the mountainous, or vice versa. Again, we 
must adiiiit in its search it could be guided also by the 
aforementioned form as well as the lay of the land, whether 
it wa^ an island or a continent — whether it was parallel to 
the sun or diagonal to it, so too would its flora or plant 
life, or vegetation, or its inhabitants enable it to identify 
its own from other lands — even its lakes, rivers or coast 
formations, or contours would serve its powers of recogni- 
tion or discernment of difference; not only this, its meeting 
of its own species, or for that matter other birds, would 
enable it to perform some accurate idea of its location and 
true route (even if we do exclude the possibility of it 
being able to communicate its wants, and ideas, on the 
basis of m*y sign language theory). 

Whj^ should we not allow to them the ability to make 
their wants known to others of their species? Are there 
not indisputable facts that they can do it, even if only in 
a limited way? We set every evidence that they in a 
hundred waj'^s follow the promptings of each other, and 
combine their acts to each others' mutual advantage. Wit- 
ness the parents instructing their young; their combinations 
for oflfense, defense, hunting and a hundred other things, 
all of which go a long way to establish the truth of my 
theory. 

Notwithstanding man*'s ceaseless pursuit, superiority of 
intelligences and numbers, giving and taking, and holding 
theirs against all odds, thriving and adapting themselves to 
conditions and circumstances, with a degree of intelligent 
perception that is nothing short of the marvelous; gaining 
knowledge of our ways, profiting by them, and keeping 
their ways from us more than we do ours from them. 

Can we deny then, after this evidence to the contrary, 
that they have not intelligences in common with our own? 
Are we not on the wrong track? Do we not err when we 



250 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

deny that they possess intelligences, because it is not in- 
telligence of the human kind? 

Neither must we judge by the standard of domestic ani- 
mals that we have grouped around us, for these have by 
contact with man in a way degenerated, and are imbeciles 
almost, more or less automatic, from whom we have almost 
eliminated with but few exceptions every spark of conscious 
intelligence, alive and sort of self-directing; true, but abso- 
lutely broken in spirit, meaning and intent. 

We have deprived them of every right to free them, 
thought:-, purpose and action, and enslaved them to our 
cause and ways. We deny them the right of natural selec- 
tion, pen them up, feed, harness, work and control their 
every action, unless it coincides with our own ideas. 

In many instances we den37- them the right of liberty, 
freedom, companionship of kith or kin, and adapt them to 
our ways, until they become practically a clod, block-machine 
like creature, alike to nothing found of the wild animal 
world from which it sprung. Its mental faculties become 
sort of obsolete, and it can neither think, act, reflect, com- 
pare or weigh an}'- more than a machine, and there is no 
Ptimr^lus even, outside of what we apply. For generations 
Ave have crossed or inbred its kind, until its every intelli- 
gence is blunted, and its reasoning powers practically de- 
throned: hence, to form any standard of the intelligence 
of Wild Animals from those domestic species that we have 
among us is but a reflection on ourselves, whether it be a 
breeding bull or a barnyard fowl. 



THE LANGUAGE OF ANIMALS OR THE 
SECRET OF SIGN 

In brief the language of animals is one of sign move- 
ment, expression (physiognomy if you will), every action 
or posture ot the body, every emotion, each change cf mu?c]« 
or facial look. The mere facial wrinkling or f^1rrov^'s ^con- 
sciously or unconsciously, instinctively performed ") :ri^'? ex- 
ternal siofns which are as good as words. Pleasure, fear, 
sneers, contempt, disgust, want, hatred, jealousy, affection, 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 251 

astonishment, shame, pain, dislike, defiance, low spirit, de- 
pression, anger, amusement, like, surprise, etc.; in short, 
any and every emotion or want, has its peculiar characteris- 
tic and appearance. Hence by infallible signs do they per- 
ceive, anticipate or read what is going on in the mind of 
each other, much as do we perceive at a moving picture 
show, and read by sign its meaning and intent there be- 
trayed by lock, act, appearance, gesture or action. 

Watch two animals at play or in fight — see them com- 
prehend and anticipate every movement of each other. Even 
each call, cry or sound has its peculiar or significant mean- 
ing, and by the expression of this sound or call even its 
meaning or intent is recognized exactly as is every move- 
ment equally interpreted or read, which is the true language 
of animals. 

Even students in physiology recognize the fact that all 
emotions — wants, desires, likes, dislikes or habits — betray 
themselves in movements of the facial or body muscles. 
Grief, anxiety, impatience, contempt, joy, all have their ex- 
terior signs, and instances such as I shall cite ought to 
convince the reader of the truth of my observations, a few 
of which I shall describe in this chapter. 

Observe dogs, who, during many generations have, whilst 
intently looking at any object, pricked their ears in order 
to perceive any sound; and conversely have looked intently 
in the direction of a sound to which they may have listened, 
the movements of these organs have become firmly asso- 
ciated together through long-continued habit. 

Notice the difference between rage and fear. Who can 
mistake it. Then observe joy or pleasure, versus, sorrow 
or grief; in either case both the facial expression and body 
posture or movement betrays the sign in unmistakable 
form, even in the human race, as per these examples: 

Astonishment expressed by the eyes and mouth being 
opened wide, and by the eyebrows being raised. 

Shame excites a blush when the color of the skin allows 
it to be visible, and especially how low down the body does 
the blush extend. 

When a man is indignant or defiant he. frowns, holds his 



252 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

body and head erect, squares his shoulders and clenches 
his fists. 

When considering deeply on any subject, or trying to 
understand any puzzle, does he frown, or wrinkle the skin 
beneath the lower eyelids? 

When in low spirits, are the .corners of the mouth de- 
pressed, and the inner corner of the eyebrows raised by 
that muscle which the French call the "grief muscle"? The 
eyebrow in this state becomes slightly oblique, with a little 
swelling at the inner end; and the forehead is transversely 
wrinkled in the middle part, but not across the whole 
breadth, as when the eyebrows are raised in surprise. 

When in good spirits do the eyes sparkle, with the skin 
a little wrinkled round and under them, and with the mouth 
a little drawn back at the corners? 

When a man sneers or snarls at another, is the corner, 
of the upper lip over the canine or eye tooth raised on the 
side facing the man who he addresses? 

A dogged or obstinate expression is recognized chiefly 
when shown by the mouth being firmly closed, a lowering 
brow and a slight frown. 

Contempt expressed by a slight protrusion of the lips and 
by turning up the nose, and with a slight expiration. 

Disgust shown by the lower lip being turned down, the 
upper lip slightly raised, with a sudden expiration, some- 
thing like incipient vomiting, or like something spit out of 
the mouth. 

Extreme fear expressed in the same general manner as 
with humans. 

Laughter carried to such an extreme as to bring tears 
into the eyes. 

When a man wishes to show that he cannot prevent some- 
thing being done, or cannot himself do something, does he 
shrug his shoulders, turn inwards his elbows, extend out- 
wards his hands and open the palms, with the eyebrows 
raised? 

Children, when sulky, pout or greatly protrude the lips. 

Do not the frown or wrinkling of the brows in ourselves 
indicate when we are vexed or perplexed? Is not the seri- 
ous or frivolous recognized at a glance? Hence, multiply 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 253 

these exterior signs and movements of the body — a hundred 
times — and you have, in short, the secret of animal language. 
Indeed, the sign language of the savage tribes of the world, 
with whom I have spent many years of my life, both in 
equatorial or polar zones, all recognize and communicate with 
each other by sign, in such a way that not a single word 
need be spoken — the eye alone, by external sign, recog- 
nizing all the various differences of expression of face or 
musde movement or posture of the body. 

Hence all animals perceive and read these signs in- 
stantly, because thousands of years has taught them that 
they are infallible. Take, for instance, movements or 
changes in any part of the body — as the wagging of a dog's 
tail, the drawing back of a horse's ears, the shrugging of a 
man's shoulders, may all equally well serve for expression, 
and is indeed a language of sign — where lies are impossible — 
proof of the saying "Actions speak louder than words." 

When our minds are much affected, so are the move- 
ments of our bodies; but here another principle besides 
ha'bit, namely, undirected overflow of nerve-force, partially 
comes into play. We have lost the art of mind reading, but 
wild animals have retained it. It is so important for our 
purpose fully to recognize that actions readily become 
associated with other actions and with various states of the 
mind, that I will give a good many instances, in the first 
place relating to man, and afterwards to the lower animals, 
as we shall observe. 

Notice, a vulgar man often scratches his head when per- 
plexed in mind; he acts thus from habit, as if he experi- 
enced a slightly uncomfortable bodily sensation, namely, the 
itching of his head, to which he is particularly liable, and 
which he thus relieves. Another man rubs his eyes when 
perplexed, or gives a little cough when embarrassed, acting 
in either case as if he felt a slightly uncomfortable sensa- 
tion in his eyes or windpipe. 

Again, persons cutting anything with a pair of scissors 
may be seen to move their jaws simultaneously with the 
blades of the scissors. Children learning to write often twist 
about their tongues as their fingers move, in a ridiculous 
fashion. When a public singer suddenly 'becomes a little 



254 CO'M'PL'ETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

hoarse, many of those present may be heard to clear their 
throats; but here habit probably comes into plaj^, as we 
clear our own throats under similar circumstances. I have 
also been told that at leaping matches, as the performer 
makes his spring, many of the spectators, generally men 
and boys, move their feet. 

Dogs scratch themselves by a rapid movement of one of 
their hind-feet, and when their backs are rubbed with a stick, 
so strong is the habit that they cannot help rapidly scratch- 
ing the air or the ground in a useless and ludicrous man- 
ner. The terrier just alluded to, when thus scratched with 
a stick, will sometimes show her delight 'by another habitual 
movement, namely, by licking the air as if it were my hand. 

Horses scratch themselves by nibbling those parts of 
their bodies which they can reach with their teeth; but more 
commonly one horse shows another where he wants to be 
scratched, and they then nibble each other. 

A horse when eager to start on a journey makes the 
nearest approach which he can to the habitual movement 
of progression by pawing the ground. Now, when horses 
in their stalls are about to be fed and are eager for their 
corn, they paw the pavement or the straw. Two of my 
horses thus behave when they see or hear the corn given 
to their neighbors. But here we have what may almost be 
called a true expression, as pawing the ground is universally 
recognized as a sign of eagerness. 

Cats cover up their excrements of both kinds with earth; 
and my grandfather saw a kitten scraping ashes over a 
spoonful of pure water spilt on the hearth; so that here an 
habitual or instinctive action was falsely excited, not by a 
previous act or by odor, but by eye-sight. It is well known 
that cats dislike wetting their feet, owing, it is probable, 
to their having originally inhabited the dry country of 
Egypt; and when they wet their feet they shake them 
violently. My daughter poured some water into a glass 
close to the head of a kitten, and it immediately shook its 
feet in the usual manner; so that here we have an habitual 
movement falsely excited by an associated sound instead 
of by the sense of touch. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 255 



ANIMALS GESTURE LANGUAGE 

Presently I shall discuss and tell about wild animals, 
but will first take up those you are most familiar with in 
order to understand more fully by analogy the facts I 
desire to impress upon your mind, viz.: 

When a dog approaches a strange dog or man. in a 
sava§fe or hostile frame of mind he walks upright and very 
stiffly; his head is slightly raised, or not much lowered; 
the tail is held erect and quite rigid; the hairs bristle, espe- 
cially along the neck and back; the pricked ears are directed 
forwards, and the eyes have a fixed stare. These actions, 
as will hereafter be explained, follow from the dog's inten- 
tion to attack his enemy, and are thus to a large extent 
intelligible. As he prepares to spring with a savage growl 
on his enemy, the canine teeth are uncovered, and the ears 
are pressed close backwards on the head. Let us now 
suppose that the dog suddenly discovers that the man he 
is approaching is not a stranger, but his master; and let 
it be observed how completely and instantaneously his 
whole bearing is reversed. Instead of walking upright, 
the body sinks downwards or even crouches, and is thrown 
into flexuous movements; his tail, instead of being held 
stiff and upright, is lowered and wagged from side to side; 
his hair instantly becomes smooth; his ears are depressed 
and drawn backwards, but not closely to the head, and 
his lips hang loosely. From the drawing back of the 
ears the eyelids become elongated, and the eyes no longer 
appear round and staring. It should be added that the 
animal is at such times in an excited condition from joy, 
and nerve-force will be generated in excess, which natural- 
ly leads to action of some kind, unconsciously even. 

Unconscious Movements — Signs 

A winking movement is caused when a blow is directed 
towards the face, but this is an habitual and not a strictly 
reflex action, as the stimulus is conveyed through the mind 
and not by the excitement of a peripheral nerve. The whole 



256 . CO^MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

body and head are generally at the same time drawn sud- 
denly backwards. These latter movements, however, can be 
prevented, if the danger does not appear to the imagination 
imminent; but our reason telling us that there is no danger 
does not suffice. I may mention a trifling fact, illustrating 
this point, and which at the time amused me. I put my 
face close to the thick glass-plate in the front of a puff- 
adder in the Zoological Gardens, with the firm determina- 
tion of not starting back if the snake struck at me; but, 
as soon as the blow was struck my resolution went for noth- 
ing, and I jumped a yard or two backwards with astonishing 
rapidity. My will and reason were powerless against the 
imagination of a danger which had never been experienced. 

Dogs after voiding their excrement often make with 
all four feet a few scratches backwards, even on a bare 
stone pavement, as if for the purpose of covering up their 
excrement with earth, in nearly the same manner as do cats. 
Wolves and jackals, in exactly the same manner. All these 
animals, however, bury superfluous food. Hence, if we right- 
ly understand the meaning of the above cat-like habit, of 
which there can be little doubt, we have a purposeless rem- 
nant of an habitual movement, which was originally fol- 
lowed by some remote progenitor of the dog-genus for a 
definite purpose, and which has been retained for a prodigious 
length of time. 

Wolves, dogs and jackals take pleasure in rolling and 
rubbing their necks and backs on carrion, because the odor 
seems delightful to them. 

Many carnivorous animals, as they crawl towards their 
prey and prepare to rush or spring on it, lower their heads 
and crouch, partly, as it would appear, to hide themselves, 
and to get ready for their rush; and this habit in an exag- 
gerated form has become hereditary in our pointers and 
setters. Now, I have noticed scores of times that when 
two strange dogs meet on an open road, the one which first 
sees the other, though at the distance of one or two hundred 
yards, after the first glance always lowers its head, generally 
crouches a little, or even lies down; that is, he takes the 
proper attitude for concealing himself and for making a 
rush or spring. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 257 

PRACTICAL ILLUSTRATIONS OF SIGN 
LANGUAGE 

Let us now turn to the cat. When this animal is 
threatened by a dog, it arches its back in a surprising man- 
ner, erects its hair, opens its mouth and spits. But we are 
not here concerned with this well known attitude, expres- 
sive of terror combined with anger; we are concerned only 
with tiiat of rage or anger. This is not often seen, but 
may be observed when two cats are fighting together. The 
attitude is almost exactly the same as that of a. tiger dis- 
turbed and growling over its food, which every one must 
have beheld in menageries. The animal assumes a crouch- 
ing position, with the body extended; and the whole tail, 
or the tip alone, is lashed or curled from side to side. The 
hair is not in the least erect. Thus far, the attitude and 
movements are nearly the same as when the animal is pre- 
pared to spring on its prey, and when, no doubt, it feels 
savage. But when preparing to fight, there is this differ- 
ence, that the ears are closely pre.ssed backwards; the 
mouth partially opened, showing the teeth; the fore 
feet are occasionally struck out with protruded claws,, and 
the animal occasionally utters a fierce growl. All, or almost 
all, these actions naturally follow (as herafter to be ex- 
plained), from the cat's manner and intention of attacking its 
enemy. 

Let us now look at a cat in a directly opposite frame of 
mind, whilst feeling affectionate and caressing hei master; 
and mark how opposite is her attitude in every respect. 
She now stands upright with her back slightly arched, which 
makes the hair appear rather rough, but it does not bristle; 
her tail, instead of being extended and lashed from side to 
side, is held quite stiff and perpendicularly upwards; her 
ears are erect and pointed; her mouth is closed, and she 
rubs against her master with a purr instead of a growl. 
Let it further be observed how widely different is the whole 
bearing of an affectionate cat from that of a dog, when 
with his body crouching and flexuous, his tail lowered and 
wagging, and ears depressed, he caresses his master. This 
contrast in the attitudes and movements of these two carniv- 



258 PO'MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

orons animals, under the same pleased and affectionate 
frame of mind, can be explained, as it appears to me, solel; 
by their movements standing in complete antithesis to those 
which are naturally assumed, when these animals feel savage 
and are prepared either to fight or to seize their prey. 

In these cases of the dog and cat, there is every rea- 
son to believe that the gestures both of hostility and affec- 
tion are innate or inherited, for they are almost identically 
the same in the different races of the species, and in all the 
individuals of the same race, both young and old. 



THE VALUE OF NOTICING SIGN LANGUAGE 

Any one who has watched monkeys will not doubt that 
they perfectly understand each other's gestures and expres- 
sion. . 

An animal when going to attack another, or when 
afraid of another, often makes itself appear terrible, by 
erecting its hair, thus increasing the apparent bulk of its 
body, by showing its teeth, or by brandishing its horns or by 
uttering fierce sounds. 

Dogs when aproaching a strange dog, may find it useful 
to show b}^ their movements that they are friendly, and do 
not wish to fight. When two young dogs in play are growl- 
ing and biting each other's faces and legs it is obvious that 
they mutually understand each other's gestures and manners. 
There seems, indeed, some degree of instinctive knowledge 
in puppies and kittens, that they must not use their sharp 
little teeth or claws too freely in their play, though this 
sometimes happens and a squeal is the result: otherwise 
they would often injure each other's eyes. 

Years ago I owned a valuable Collie dog who loved to 
play and bite at my hand, who at times was rather rough 
with his teeth, hence when in p^ay, often snarling at the 
same time, if he bit too hard and I said gently, gently, he 
went on biting, but he answered me by a few wags of the 
tail, which seemed to say "Never mind, it is all fun." Al- 
though dogs do thus express, and may wish to express, to 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 259 

other dogs and to man, that they are in a friendly state of 
mind, these very same signs we perceive in mankind — only 
the trouble is we have largely ignored these things and de- 
pended upon speech instead, while with animals it is the 
reverse. 

Now turn to the characteristic symptoms of rage. Under 
this powerful emotion the action of the heart is much accel- 
erated, or it may be much disturbed. The face reddens, 
or it becomes purple from the impeded return of the blood, 
or may turn deadly pale. The respiration is laboured, the 
chest heaves, and the dilated nostrils quiver. The whole 
body often trembles. The voice is affected. The teeth 
are clenched or ground together, and the muscular system 
is commonly stimulated to violent, almost frantic action. 



SIGN VERSUS WILD ANIMAL CALLS 

The sexes of many animals incessantly call for each other 
during the breeding-season; and in not a few cases, the male 
endeavors thus to charm or excite the female. Thus the 
use of sign vocal organs will have become associated with 
the anticipation of the strongest pleasure which animals are 
capable of feeling. Animals which live in society often call 
to each other when separated, and evidently feel much joy 
at meeting; as we see with a horse, on the return of his com- 
panion, for whom he has been neighing. The mother calls 
incessantly for her lost young ones; for instance, a cow for 
her calf; and the young of many animals call for their 
mothers. When a flock of sheep is scattered, the ewes bleat 
incessantly for their lambs, and their mutual pleasure at 
coming together is manifest. Woe betide the man who 
meddles with the young of the larger and fiercer quadrupeds, 
if they hear the cry of distress from their young. Rage 
leads to the violent exertion of all muscles, including those 
of the voice; and some animals, when enraged, endeavor 
to strike terror into their enemies by its power and harsh- 
ness. 



260 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

Rival males try to excel and challenge each other by 
their voices, and this leads to deadly contests. Rabbits 
stamp loudly on the ground as a signal to their comrades; 
and if a man knows how^ to do so properly, he may on a 
quiet evening hear the rabbits answering him all around. 
These animals, as well as some others, also stamp on the 
ground when made angry. Porcupines rattle their quills 
and vibrate their tails when angered; and one behaved in 
this manner when a live snake was placed in its compartment. 
The quills on the tail are very different from those on the 
body: They are short, hollow, thin like a goose-quill, with 
their ends transversely truncated, so that they are open; 
they are supported on long, thin, elastic footstalks. Nov/, 
when the tail is rapidly shaken, these hollow quills strike 
against each other and produce a peculiar continuous sound. 
We can, I think, understand why porcupines have been pro- 
vided, through modification of their protective spines, with 
this special sounding instrument. They are nocturnal ani- 
mals, and if they scented or heard a prowling beast of prey, 
it would be a great advantage to them in the dark to give 
warning to their enemy what they were, and that they were 
furnished with dangerous spines. They would thus escape 
being attacked. They are, as I may add, so fully conscious 
of the power of their weapons, that when enraged they will 
charge backwards with their spines erected, yet still inclined 
backwards. 

Many birds during their courtship produce diversified 
sounds by means of specially adapted feathers. Grouse drum 
with their wings. Snakes and adders puff and hiss and rattle 
or vibrate the tail. 

When a dog is chased, or when in danger of being struck 
behind, or of anything falling on him, in all these cases he 
wishes to withdraw as quickly as possible his whole hind- 
quarters, and that from, some sympathy or connection be- 
tween the muscles, the tail is then drawn closely inwards. 

These facts together with other observation as to gesture 
language of wild animals represent but a part of what I have 
to say upon the subject — and as we go along I intend to 
show you — how in many other ways — wild animals communi- 
cate to each other — when separated by long distances even — 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 261 

how they leave messages, post signals and by a host of ways 
perform seemingly wonderful feat.s in a most simple way. 
That mankind once possessed the ability to read and de- 
cipher expression without words is recorded in the early 
part of Genesis, where we are told that our Adamic ancestor 
was asked, "What is this thou hast done — hast thou eaten 
of the tree of life, etc., etc.," showing that by external signs 
facial expression and otherwise the evil done was evident 
by a glance in point of fact. Mind reading or telepathy is 
repeatedly recorded — even expert criminologists today or 
men versed in criminal ways can tell by looks and posture, 
largely what is going on in one's mind, for by muscle and 
facial movement, expression, etc., the guilty self betray them- 
selves; and with wild animals who depend upon signs as 
a means of communication, the faculty is abnormally devel- 
oped, and apparent at a glance, and when we can observe 
the signs, they fathom both act, meaning and intent a thou- 
sand times more accurate than we; that is why I contend 
that animals recognize, even our moods, dispositions and by 
the power of scent also are enabled to perform wonderful 
feats of an extraordinary nature. 



"DEDUCTIVE POWER OF ODORS." 

It is by means of scent or odor that animals smell out 
where each other has been and determine or reason out 
largely by these and other signs what their absent mates 
have been doing. Even animals, after their mates return 
from some lone trip, will proceed to smell out their fellows, 
as though to deduce therefrom, largely by odor or associa- 
tion of smell, where they have been and what they were 
at. So, too, will pups or cubs smell their parent, who has 
been off hunting, and learn if they have been successful in 
the chase. As generally the odor of blood or the animal she 
has captured associated with, perhaps feasted upon or hid- 
den, is perceptible — all such signs are noted. Thus many 
a tell-tale story -or fact cannot be hidden, disguised or con- 
cealed, and the nose is used to tell many a tale or act: 



262 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

that in itself is equivalent to language reading and perceiv- 
ing. By such sign a whole lot of information is gained 
which otherwise could not be obtained; and by deductive 
reasoning do they learn and know much as to each other's 
trips or acts when absent, illustrating that old proverb, 
"Actions speak louder than words." Take, for instance, 
a good hunting dog; he knows the minute one is preparing 
for a hunting trip, or not, and reasons out largely by actions 
just what you are going to do, where you are going, or 
where you have been. Even a common house dog or cat 
knows when its master or missus has been to the store, 
and what it has got before; even the packages are opened; 
they can smell butcher shop or grocery and tell the dififer- 
ence between that and the drugstore or laundry; they be- 
come far more familiar with your habits, customs and wants 
than you do of theirs, and I repeat, we have much to profit 
by and learn of their ways. Eyes, nose and ears to them 
give out information that you little dream of, and there is 
a hundred things they notice about each other or you that 
one never could imagine or suspect. Hence bear in mind 
that b}^ a mental and physical process of reasoning all ani- 
mals deduce from sign, and gather much information which 
conveys to them — and really means — the equivalent of 
speech. Every track, trail, hoof print, claw mark, rubbing 
post, urinating place, dung heap, piles of hair, fur, bones, 
remains of a feast, camphre or strange article, even an 
empty cartridge shell thrown about or left around, tin can, 
or, for that matter anything strange, conveys to them a 
tell-tale story as to what has been done, or what is going 
on. It is their way of gathering facts and information of 
each other's or your acts, and with "Sherlock Holmes" like 
intelligence they learn the news as to happenings of the 
day, much as we rely upon the news of the day or gossip 
of the neighbors. To them the art of deductive reasoning 
is part and parcel of their make-up, and they read in each 
other's minds and acts the very thoughts, intents and pur- 
poses as they go along. Curiosity in them is inborn, a sort 
of second nature, and it is developed extraordinarily until 
it becomes a seventh or eighth sense, so to speak. 

I have often been amused by scientists who wrote on sub- 
jects as, "Do Animals Think or Reason?" and am surprised 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 263 

that they deny to them intelligence that we possess. To my 
mind they can give scientists cards and spades when it 
comes right down to facts, although I am willing to admit 
their intelligence is limited to natural things, and not the 
artificial or unnatural. If scientists would only gather their 
information at first hand, instead of jumping to conclusions, 
they would concede the fact that animal intelligences are 
superior to their own in very many respects, just as they do 
that ours are superior to theirs in many ways. There are 
limitations pro and con, and we have much yet to learn and 
profit b}^ as to the ways cf the wild. 



TRACKS AND TRAILING 



TRACKING ON BARE GROUND 

It has been said that nature is an open book to the man 
who can read the signs and tracks therein, but few is there 
who can do it. Too many tracking is very .difficult, hence, 
do not expect to become an expert trailer by reading this 
chapter — either let its hints and suggestions be the starting 
point, and begin by examining every imprint you find any- 
where and by deductive reasoning figure out who made it. 
Experience only will enable you to judge of these things, 
for there are lots of other signs besides trail to note, for it 
is by sign and trail both that one verifies the other. 

To begin with one must first judge correctly what ani- 
mal made the track; second, to note the direction it is travel- 
ing; third, the manner or gait in which it is going: fourth, 
its size and shape, so as to judge of its age and sex, for by 
mental note of these facts one can generally get a pretty 
good idea o"f its distinction and anything else accordingly. 

Under ordinary conditions any single track will suffice 
to tell the species and size, at least with a fair degree of 
accuracy, yet there are many instances when varieties look 
so much alike that one can mistake. 

In tracking deer upon bare ground a difficulty meets us 
which is practically unknown in tracking upon snow; name- 



264 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 
TRACKS AND TRAILING 




Identifing Sign or Trail. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 265 

ly, recognizing the footprints. On snow one can generally 
watch the trail with an occasional side glance of the most 
careless kind, keeping all his attention directed toward 
catching first sight of the game. But on bare ground not 
only is keener sight necessary to detect the game, but a 
large part of the attention so necessary for that purpose 
has to be diverted toward finding and recognizing the foot- 
prints of the trail. 

I "have read some very weak stuff about the stupen- 
dous difficulties of tracking upon bare ground. I have read 
very able articles by eminent sportsmen in our best maga- 
zines in which the tracking of a moose weighing nearly a 
thousand pounds was depicted as a vast and wondrous 
achievement, the ability to do which was reserved to the 
gifted Indian and denied to the poor paleface. There are 
indeed some people who could not track an elephant through 
a dew-covered clover-patch; but there is not a backwoods 
boy of sixteen who ever has to hunt up a lost yearling calf 
in the woods, not a young vaquero in California who ever 
followed an animal over the rugged hills, who would not 
laugh at those articles and declare the author a gosling. 
The authors of such articles are, however, no such .thing, 
but simply careless writers who allow their admiration of 
the Indian to run away with their pens. But the effect 
of all such stuff is bad. It deters from attempting track- 
ing many a one who might easily attain, not great skill, 
but enough for good sport. 

There may be a hereditary tendency in the Indian which 
makes it more easy for him to learn tracking; but he has 
also vastly more practice. And herein lies the main secret 
— perfect sight and practice, practice, practice. And with 
practice the average white man is fully equal to the average 
Indian. There will be a difference in individuals just as 
there is in the knack or facility of doing anything, and 
consequently some Indians will excel some white men. But 
if the average Indian excels the average white man, it is in 
what he will do and not in what he can do. He will run 
all day with nothing to eat, keeping a dog-trot nearly all 
the time for a single deer. The white man has more re- 
gard for the day of reckoning, and will rarely throw away 



3G6 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

TRACKS OF ANIMALS— "SPOORING" 



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A Study in Gaits and Tracks 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 267 

his health or prematurely use up his strength for such a 
paltry reward as a deer. And just so the Indian will cling 
to a trail and eventually secure the game when the white 
man would give it up as involving more patience or work 
than the game was worth. The Indian- hunts for food; 
when he sets out for it he is bound to have it, and he will 
continue the chase as long as daylight allows him. Here 
he undoubtedly excels. And, so far as I am concerned, he 
is triply welcome to all the glory of this superiority. 

Tracking on bare ground is, however, very often diffi- 
cult, and is never any too easy. On some kinds of ground 
it is impossible for either white man or Indian to track 
an animal as light and as small-hoofed as a deer fast 
enough to be of any avail; and often where it can be done 
it is too tedious even for the Indian. He rarely tracks 
a single deer on most kinds of bare grounds unless it is 
wounded or deer are very scarce. Where a single -track 
goes through heavy timber; where the ground is covered 
with dry dead leaves or dry dead grass; where it is very 
dry and hard, or is stony or frozen; where it is thickly 
covered with brush, dry weeds, canebrake, etc. — rare is the 
hunter, either white or red, who will have patience to follow 
a track. j\.nd often they could not if they would. • More 
often, however, they merely skip such places and depend 
upon picking up the trail on better ground; but where the 
whole or greater part of the ground is of the nature above 
described, nearly all hunters let the tracks alone, unless 
they be tracks of a traveling band. 

But, on the other hand, there are some kinds of ground 
on which a deer can be followed with almost as much 
certainty as on snow, and so fast as to require little patience 
on the part of the hunter. Such are the bare hilly regions 
where the ground is not too rocky, and where little or no 
grass grows and the brush is not too thick. Such is almost 
all open ground when very wet and not too much covered 
with dead grass, weeds, etc.; such is most open ground 
covered with green grass, especially if the dew is on it; such 
is ground on which wild cattle range, and where the deer 
often follow the cattle-trails and make runways of their 
own from one trail to another. On these and various other 



268 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

TRACKS OF ANIMALS 



•-■^<;.»y<;^p^y-qjga»-> , 






1.1 



MARTEN 







Close Comparisons, showing Ho'w Mistakes are Made. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 269 

kinds of ground it often is worth while to work up a trail 
of even a single deer; but just when and where this will be 
worth while depends so entirely upon the nature of the 
ground, the size of the deer, the distance it is likely to 
travel, the age of the track, its direction, the time of day, 
etc., that it is quite impossible to lay down any useful rule. 
It is a thing to be decided by the circumstances of each 
particular case. 

But though it may not be worth while to track a single 
deer on bare ground, the case is often quite different when 
there are several. A band of five or six deer is quite easy 
to follow, and even a doe and two fawns will keep so close 
together that where the track of one is extremely faint that 
of another near by it is very plain. So long as they keep 
near together, so that one fills up the dim part of the trail 
of another, a band is quite easy to track; but when they 
begin to straggle out and wander here and there they get 
harder to follow, and, as before, in tracking on snow, it is 
now best to leave the tracks for a while and look out for 
the game from behind some ridge. Still it will not always 
be advisable to follow even a band, if deer are plenty enough 
without doing so; for though it is easier for you to see 
some of them, it is also much easier for them to see, or 
hear, or smell you. So if the ground is very level or brushy, 
with no good lookout places or facilities for circling well, 
or if the wind be strong, it is often best not to bother even 
with tracking several deer if others are plenty enough to 
give you a fair chance elsewhere. 

If you only expect to hunt a little at long intervals it will 
not be worth while to study tracking on bare ground, for 
to acquire sufficient skill to do it rapidly enough, and with 
certainty enough, requires unquestionably a large amount 
of practice. But, on the other hand, if you intend to do 
any considerable amount of still-hunting you should by all 
means practice it. And to begin this it is not necessary to 
wait until the necessity arises. The first steps in the art 
can be learned by practicing on your own trail. 

To do this go first upon ground that is soft enough to 
take the impression of your foot. After walking a hundred 
yards or so, tircle around backward and look for vour 



270 



TRACKS AND TRAILS. 




Close Comparisons Showing How Mistakes are Made. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 271 

trail. Then follow it, not with your eyes upon any one 
track and then shifting to the next one, but with eyes 
fixed as far away as possible, and with a gaze that takes 
in at once twenty-five or thirty feet of the trail. After try- 
ing this for a few days you will discover a marked differ- 
ence in the speed with which your eye catches each foot- 
print, in the distance at which it will catch them, and in 
the number it will take in at once. On each day look also, 
for the tracks of- the preceding day and days before that, 
until you can no longer hnd them; and note carefully the 
difference in the appearance of freshness, a very important 
point. When it becomes easy to find and follow your trail 
on such ground, change to more difficult ground. Unless 
you live in a large city all this kind of practice may easily 
be had near home. A cow or horse track, off the road, 
is also good to practice on. But remember to always try 
and see as far ahead as possible on the trail. Tracking does 
not, as some might suppose, consist in picking out each 
step b}^ a separate search, but in a comprehensive view of 
the whole ground for several yards ahead. Sometimes it is 
necessary to grope one's way from step to step like a child 
in its primer, as where the trail gets very faint or turns 
much; but generally the experienced tracker reads several 
yards of the trail at a glance, just as the fluent reader does 
words in a book. The gaze is fixed quite as much on the 
surrounding ground, and the trail appears almost to stand 
out in relief. 

The appearance of a deer's track upon bare ground varies 
very much, and a trail may in a quarter of a mile run 
through a dozen or more variations. All appearances may, 
however, be included undcF the following heads, and the 
great majority of tracks you will see will correspond exactly 
with the description of the class: 

1st. Distinct impressions of the whole hoof. 

2nd. Faint impressions of only the points of the hoof. 

3rd. A slight rim of dirt or dust thrown up by the 
sharp edge of the hoof. 

4th. Slight scrapes upon hard ground, recognizable only 
by the change of color, being made by a faint grinding of 
the finest particles of the surface without any impression. 



272 



Antlers and Horns of tlie Elk. 




Tht ^^I'f*^^^- ?^o^'t> Of Antlers— Up to the Shedding Season. 
Ihe Last Picture m th,s Illustration Shows the Condition of 
'-oat in feprmg- ^\ hen Summer Hair is Coming in and 
Winter Hair is Being- Shed. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE • 273 

5th. Mere touches or spots showing only a faint change 
in the shade of the color. There is scarcely any air so dry 
that the ground during the night will not absorb a trace 
of moisture. The least disturbance of the top particles of 
such soil, even without grinding them over each other, will 
make a difference in the shade of the color, which will be 
visible under some point of view though invisible from 
others, depending upon the direction of the light. 

6th. Crushing or grinding of the surface of friable rocks, 
and mere scrapes or scratches on harder rock or frozen 
ground. 

7th. Depressions in moss, grass, dead leaves, etc. 

8th. Dead leaves, sticks, etc., kicked or brushed aside 
or overturned, or broken or bent, etc. 

9th. A plain bending or separating of the spears of grass 
or weeds. This is generally caused by the feet treading 
down the stalks at the bottom and not as the next (Xo. 
10) is. 

10th. A bending of the spears of grass or weeds, etc.. 
by the legs of the passing animal. In this case the bend 
itself of the spears is hardly noticeable except b}' the change 
in the shade of light cast b}^ them. In such case a faint 
streak of differently shaded color will be found running 
through the grass or weeds, visible only from some direc- 
tions. 

11th, Change of color from brushing dew, rain-drops, 
or frost from grass, weeds, etc. 

12th. Upturning of the under surfaces (generally moist) 
of stones, leaves, etc. 

These twelve classes include about all you will need to 
study. There are. of course, some others, but generally so 
accidental and rare that you had better skip such places and 
seek the trail farther on. such .as the under surface of dry 
leaves pressed against wet ones beneath but not upturned. 
It will not be worth while to spend time on a trail in look- 
ing for such signs. 

Where the animal has run or bounded it is, of course, easy 
to follow. But this generally shows that you have alarmed 
it, or that some one else has. You already know your 
prospects in such a case. About the only tracks worth 



274 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

following are those where the animal was walking, and 
these are the very hardest. 

I should deem it unnecessary to mention the peculiars 
shape of a deer's track had I not known the tracks of both 
hogs and sheep frequently taken for those of a deer. 
Both hogs and sheep have more round and uneven pointed 
hoofs than a deer has. A hog, too, spreads his toes out. 
and a sheep generally does more or less. A deer always 
keeps his toes tight together, except when running, and 
sometimes when walking on wet and slippery ground. There 
is once in a great while a deer with spreading toes, and 
once in a great while a sheep with a foot almost like a 
deer's foot. But these are too rare to give you any trouble. 
The feet of an antelope are still sharper, if possible, than 
those of a deer, though there is often resemblance enough 
to deceive nearly any one judging by the mere footprints 
without regard to the nature of the ground, the number 
of animals, etc. A calf has also a spreading foot and much 
more rounding toes than those of a deer,' as well as a larger 
hoof. The goat makes a solid track, very uneven in front. 
The difference in the distance of the step will generally 
settle most cases of doubt, as a deer has a much longer 
step than a sheep, hog or goat. The feet of these animals 
also drag more in snow than do those of a deer. 

When the track runs over ground where it becomes hard 
to recognize it is best to skip that part and look for it 
farther on. And this must also be done where you can 
easily follow it but cannot do so without some danger of 
alarming the game; as where the trail runs down a hill- 
side in plain view of the valley or basin in which the game 
IS likely to be, or turns down wind, etc., etc. And where 
It is necessary to circle the trail when deer watch the back 
trail, etc., etc., it must be found again in the same way. 

In order to do this a knowledge of the deer's habits and 
movements in indispensable. So is a quick and compre- 
hensive grasp of the features (or "lay of the land") of the 
country where you do not already know them. You must 
know the kind of ground to which a deer is most likely to 
go at any particular time of day, the length of time he is 
likely to remain there, how far he is likely to travel, etc., 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 275 

etc., and be quick to see the most advantageous way to 
approach such places as the game may probably be in, as 
well as the best and easiest place to regain the trail. All 
of which will so vary with the locality and the wildness of 
the deer that little advice can be given about it except 
generally, as has been already somewhat done and will be 
continued farther on. And even where the trail is easily 
followed this kind of knowledge will enable you to make 
many* advantageous flank movements, etc. 

The freshness of a track is generally less easy to deter- 
mine upon bare ground than upon snow, though it can be 
done with far more certaint}- than one would suppose. It 
is indeed often more difficult than it is upon snow to dis- 
tinguish a track five minutes old from one, two or three hours 
old. And sometimes a difference of several hours cannot be 
noticed. But it is generally very easy to tell with certainty 
the track of today from that of yesterday. There are places, 
however, where sometimes even this can hardly 'be done, as 
in coarse dry sand, dry dead weeds and grass where the 
stalk does not straighten again, but the slant remains and 
continues to make a different shade of light, etc., etc. 

\Miere dew, frost or rain-drops have been brushed from 
grass or weeds the freshness is, of course, unmistakable. 
So where wet leaves, stones, etc., have been upturned, if the 
air is dry the freshness is also easy to determine. The be- 
ginner will find little trouble with anything but dr}- ground, 
rocky ground, etc. And here he must learn to note the 
shade of color in case of mere scrapes, and the smoothness 
and fineness of the outlines in case of distinct impressions. 
Where tracks are not deep they are often obliterated in a 
few da3'S, and this even without any rain or strong wind. 
There is alwa^'s more or less moving of ants and birds over 
them: there is always more or less dust falling from the air, 
the bushes, etc., -and the faintest breeze stirs up more. If 
the}' do not in a few days obliterate a track all these things 
will quickly give it an appearance unmistakl}' old. The 
brighter color, too, of any track on drj'- ground will generally 
b}-- one night, however dry the air maj- apparently be, be re- 
stored to the color of the ground around it. though the out- 
line. if any, may 3^et remain distinct. On the dry hills of south- 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




Right and Wrong- Ways of Travel. 
Always Follows Your Guide's Instructions Implicitly. 
In the Center Picture We See the Mistake of "Going It Blind"- 
Note the Old Guide "Feels His Way," the Other Dis- 
regarding "His Warning" Makes a Fatal Mistake 
in a Dangerous Location. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 277 

ern California I have time and again noticed that tracks- that I 
had followed with ease, and where the imprint of the hoof 
was perfect, were gone in four or five days, and this where 
there were no quails trooping over the trail. This same 
obliteration takes place there with the droppings during the 
dry season, though this occurs more slowly. They are not 
merely bleached out, but they disappear. This will some- 
times happen in a fortnight or so, though more often it 
takes jnonths. Where there is rain they will often go sooner. 
But color and gloss will generally determine their age 
anywhere. 

I have confined myself in this chapter only to very gen- 
eral hints, as nothing will supply the place of practice, 
and practice will supply all I have omitted. Without prac- 
tice, and considerable of it, much success in bare tracking 
is out of the question. It is not half as hard as it is generally 
represented, but it is still no child's play. As long as you 
have to grope your way from track to track it will be too 
slow. You must study the ground until you can see tracks 
almost stick out from it, and see the line of the trail 
yards and rods ahead. 

The besetting sin of most trackers when upon bare 
ground is allowing the trail to take too much of their at- 
tention. And often while they are looking at the trail the, 
game is looking at them. 

Sometimes it may be best to skip the whole of the trail, 
using its direction only as a general guide; as where you 
find it leading from a spring toward some brushy basin upon 
the mountain-side, which is a favorite resort for deer during 
the day. And sometimes if you find a fresh trail coming 
down from such a place to a spring, but can find no 
trail returning, it may even be worth while to back- 
track the incoming trail, as the deer maj^ have returned to 
the basin by a roundabout way, over ground or through 
brush where it is too hard to follow them. The size and 
character of the basin and the quantity of other good lying- 
down places must determine such questions. 

Sometimes you get personally acquainted with a certain 
deer or set of deer so 'that you not only know them by 



278 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

sight, but know their tracks, at once; know where they will 
keep, where they will run if started, where they will be 
tomorrow if started today, etc. You come to know them 
perfectly, but there is always something the matter when 
you find them. They are too far, or jumping too high, or 
— or — well, in short you have not yet got them. The tracks 
of such deer are a pretty sure guide to their whereabouts 
without adhering to the tracks themselves. 



DEER HUNTING 

Where deer are plenty they are often seen in the woods, 
but although they are often shot in one of these happen- 
soes, it takes something more than this to make a success- 
ful deer hunter. It requires an understanding of the habits 
of the animal. In the spring of the year, when the deer is 
poor, and worthless as food, and the hide is thin and 
good for nothing, he is careless as to the approach of man, 
and may be seen in the fields searching for food. 

I do" not know that they would at this time be unhealthy 
as food, as it is said that the deer is never sick. I certainly 
never saw a sick deer, although I have killed hundreds in 
my life. Some of them were " cripples, but none of them 
seemed to be diseased. The deer has no gall in his liver, 
but in the month of June I have found cavities in the 
liver filled with a substance resembling gall, having round, 
flat objects moving in it. I have seen several of these in 
one liver, but never in August or September. 

While in this condition the animal is dumpish and dull, 
but as cool weather comes on, he wakes up; and now, 
my boys, look out. In September the buck 'begins to 
harden his horns. He lies in side hills facing the sun, and 
rubs his horns against little bushes ,to get off the bark or 
velvety skin. Now is the time to get a crack at him, if 
you can, for his meat is excellent for food. But you will 
have to be sly and keep to windward of him, for he is on 
the lookout, and if the wind blows from you to him, he 
will scent you. To know how the wind blows, ever so 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 279 

little, put your finger in your mouth until it is wet and 
warm, then hold it above your head, and the wind will 
cool it on the side from which it comes. This is a hunter's 
trick. Now proceed to hunt against the wind, and when 
you discover a deer, raise your rifle and aim at the knee 
of the fore leg; then raise the muzzle slowly until you 
sight the body, and then haul off. Don't hold your breath, 
for that will make you tremble, but breathe freelj^ until 
yoirget ready to pull trigger, and don't flinch o;" jerk it. 

This is for September. In October the buck is very 
shy and the doe twice as much so. She goes into thickets 
to hide from the buck, thus keeps well hid from you, while 
the buck passes around the thicket watching for her to 
come out. When he gets siglit of her, they both set off 
as if routed by a hunter. During this month but few deer 
are killed. In November the fun begins. Then the doe 
comes out to the buck, and the spring fawn generally keeps 
with its mother, so tb.at yon may get sight of the three at 
once, and a good steady marksman sometimes gets all 
three of them on the spot. To do this, shoot the doe flrst: 
the buck and the fawn will both stay around. Next shoot 
the buck and then the fawn, so as to have the three. I 
want to tell you never to go and see what you have shot, 
without first loading 3'our gun. The deer may not be very 
badly wounded, and will jump up and run away unless 
3'ou have your gun ready to stop him. 

A very easy way of getting a shot at a deer v.-ill be to 
make a deer-lick or salting-place, after the following man- 
ner: Choose some out-of-the-way spot where deer will be 
likely to pass, and put some salt in the hollow of an old 
log, or in a hole bored near the root of a tree, or in the 
end of a stick driven into the ground, so that the end which 
holds the salt will be about twelve inches high. Among 
the limbs make a scaffold sufficient to rest upon while you 
wait the coming of the deer to lick the salt, being, of course, 
provided with a good gun, well loaded. While daylight lasts 
there is no difficult}-, but when night comes on you will 
need an apparatus for giving light. This may be made of 
sheet iron, old tin, paste board, or birch bark, formed into a 
cylinder sufficientU- large, like a stove pipe hat. At a proper 



280 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



height to give room for the head, put in a false crown or a 
division piece. Above this, cut down one side of the cylinder 
wide enough for the light of a candle to shine out. In the 
center of the division piece put a tin socket, to hold a 
candle or other substance which will light quickly from a 
match. The candle may be made of tallow or beeswax, with 
a large wick, or you may use a piece of pitch pine, fitting 
one end into the socket and whittling the other into a mass 
of cone-like shavings. Being thus provided, proceed to watch 
with patience until the deer comes to the salt-lick. When 
you hear a noise in the right direction, strike a light and put 
the lantern on your head. As the light is shaded, except 
toward the deer, you can see plainly in front to the dis- 
tance of some rods. The sights of the gun you can see 
easily and the animal's eyes will look much like two balls 
of fire. You may make some considerable motions while 
you are on the scaffold, as deer rarely observe anything 
above their heads. 

Another way of making a salt-lick is to take a quart of 
salt tied up in a small bag, and suspend it to the limb of a 
tree or to the' top of a pole. When saturated with water 
from rain or otherwise, it will drop brine, thus forming a 
salt place in the earth, where deer will lick. Now fix your 
scaffold according to the above directions, and directly in 
line with your salted place, but beyond it, place a piece of 
luminous rotten wood, or "fox-fire." as it is called, which 
can be seen in the darkest night. Get your gun so pointed 
while it is daylight as to aim directly at the "fox-fire"; 
when the deer comes to lick the salt and darkens your light, 
you may safely discharge your gun. Of course, this old- 
time trick is only useful in locations where deer are plenti- 
ful. Another thing I want to impress upon the trapper 
is this, never hunt much about the territory covered by 
your line of traps, it drives the animals all away. Hunting 
and trapping grounds should be miles away from each 
other. 




COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 281 

HUNTING THE MOOSE 

As a rule the cow moose only stays a short time with 
the bull, then steals away and hides. The bull vainly try- 
ing to find her is at this time easy t9 approach or lure, be- 
cause any noise or sound finds him searching blindly out 
the least unusual sight or sound, seeming to lose his craft- 
iness. At these times, too, when he finds out it is not a 
female he sometimes charges or chases the creature which 
aroused him, even should it be man. Yet at a good scent 
of him he is ofif like a shot. Old hunters and trappers at 
this season of mating find no difficulty in "calling them." 
In point of fact the scraping of the blade of an ax on a tree 
is just as good as a moose call at these times; and the hunter 
who locates a lone bull at this time is pretty sure of heads, 
horns and steaks. As a rule calling should be done either 
early in the morning or at dark, and almost any imitation 
of a cow will sufiice. It is no more necessary to use a 
birch bark cone than a speaking trumpet, the only service 
it does is to send the sound further and deeper into the 
woods. Time and again I have called moose with only the 
hands to the mouth, and by rapping on a hollow tree, as 
they investigate the least sound. Even the swish of bushes 
or a good shaking of a young tree will bring them nearer 
to you should one desire a closer, surer shot. As a rule, too, 
old bulls are much more wary than the younger, pessimistic 
ones, and to decoy an old-timer needs more than ordinary 
craftiness on the part of the hunter. 

As a rule the moose moves silently and does not come 
crashing through the woods as some seem to think or say; 
indeed, quite the contrary. Even his feet seem to be shod 
with silence, and the way the big elongated creatures can 
navigate through the bushes without noise, scraping or 
rustling of the bushes is a wonder, for they somehow get 
through places that a man could not pass without getting 
his clothes, face, arms and weapon all scratched up. Again, 
moose, as a rule, circle to get the wind and utilizes the 
densest thickets he can find to search out the cows hidden 
there, and it seems as though they can see better in such 
places; but the fact is they travel and search by scent and 



282 



COMPLETE TT^APPERS GUIDE 



sound more than they do b}^ sight alone. When two bulls 
come across one cow there is, as a rule, a fight, and the 
victor takes the prize. Indeed, it seems as though the 
female watches with interest the 'battle for the possession of 
her and accepts the inevitable as a matter of fact, as I have 
never seen the cow try to steal away at these times, but 
instead to look on as though the whole thing was right and 
proper; and to witness such a royal battle is the sight of a 
lifetime indeed. As a rule, I have noticed the smaller 
bulls seem to be generally the victors, those of mature age 
being the stronger, better fighters — the old ones, those 
with the biggest antlers, being not so nimble, limber and 
strong as the younger antagonists. Again, moose hug the 
shadows of the woods, awaiting the call of the cows or 
listening for them, the bull answering with grunts or sounds 
much different than that of the long drawn out moan and 
wail of the female. If it is very dry it is poor time to hunt 
them, but if wet or the leaves and sticks under feet are 
damp and soggy then is it good for still hunting, and one 
should wend their Avay to the dense thickets, clumps of 
woods or ridges in search of them. 




The Author's Diamond Trophy 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 283 



NORMAL HABITS OF ELK. 

Elk is a browsing animal, and the long pendulous upper 
lip is provided by nature for seizing and pulling down 
branches. Yet in autumn, when the forest-vegetation is at 
its height, the elk certainly grazes to some extent. 

Normal habits of the elk are as follows: — He is astir with 
the first signs of dawn and moves about, feeding, till near 
noon? covering an immense extent of ground, but, owing 
to his circling, devious course, seldom getting very far away 
from the original spot. Towards midday he lies down for a 
siesta of uncertain duration — from two to five hours — usually 
under the shelter of trees; but when the weather is hot. and 
mosquitoes torment, in the midst of open boggy moorland, 
or a moist field-meadow, where his ponderous body speedily 
converts the bed into a tepid bath. In every case when we 
came upon him thus, the wily beast had circled well round 
to leeward before couching, thus ensuring to himself timely 
notice by the wind of any danger. The best time to hunt 
them is in the early morn '(daylight) or evening (dusk). Do 
not follow their tracks but circle around so as to head them 
off and await them. 



DUTIES OF GUIDES 

Often has it occurred to me that a discussion on the 
duties of guides — what they ought to do for the sportsmen 
whom they take in the woods, ^nd what sportsmen ought to 
expect from them — and I am going to give m}^ views on the 
subject from 'the point of the guide. 

For the last twenty years guiding has been the principal 
source of my income and I have been fairly successful at 
the work. I think I have a fair idea of what is due to both 
sides and wish to do what is right by both. 

Here my remarks will appl3% for instance, to Xew Bruns- 
wick and I will describe the methods followed by the most 
successful guides of the Province. When a man, who has 
knowledge of the woods and some experience with the work, 
decides to take up the business for himself he begins by look- 



284 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 285 

i^g up the best piece of game country he can find — a piece 
in which no other regular guide makes a practice of hunt- 
ing. Having found such a suitable place he next makes in- 
quiries as to the ownership of the land — that is if it is 
private property. In any case he submits a request to the 
owners or agents for permission to build camps and use it as 
his hunting territory. If he is a reliable man his request 
is generally granted, for all wild land owners are fully aware 
of the fact that in such a case the guide takes a keen interest 
in keeping down fires. Good camps with stores in them 
are far more safe than having all kinds of people running 
over the place making fires just where they please and leaving 
them without properly extinguishing them. It thus comes 
about that a good guide should find no great difficulty in 
securing his hunting territory. 

Having managed so far his next thought should be to fix 
his home camp. This camf), while fairly easy of access, 
should be well situated for the game. Here will be fixed 
the main supply depot and general stores, and here the guide 
will keep most of the tools he uses in his business. 

A thorough survey of his hunting ground, with particular 
reference to game possibilities, will follow. Moose is the 
game most desired by sportsmen, and in September and 
October they are generally to be found around the ponds and 
dead waters. Trails should be cut from the home camp 
by the easiest routes to these haunts of the moose. In cases 
where the distances from the home camp are to be counted 
in miles it is best to fix small out camps suitable for a few 
nights' stay should circumstances render such desirable. 
Early mornings and late evenings are the best of times to 
find moose in these places. It thus happens that when a 
party have remained out till it is too dark to see to shoot 
they can make their way to one of these out camps and find 
everything prepared for their accommodation. A supply of 
dry wood will have been cut and stored up and no noise is 
necessary to make a fire. By forethought and preparation 
the sportsman and his guide are able to pass a pleasant even- 
ing, to have a comfortable night's rest and to be. on the 
ground by daylight prepared to meet Mr. Moose. 

Once the territory is filled up in. this fashion no other 



286 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

guide of any repute will go there to hunt and the guide who 
has gone to the trouble and expense of preparing his ground 
well may be assured, if he is a good man at his work, of a 
return for the same. That is our New Brunswick method 
of hunting and experience has shown that it is a good one. 

One of the first and most important requisites of a 
good guide is a knowledge of the game he hunts, their habits, 
and the places they frequent. 

In the next place he should possess a thorough acquaint- 
ance with his hunting territory and know just where to work 
for his game at different seasons and under different weather 
conditions. When the head guide has this knowledge any 
man can do the rest fairly well by following the leader's 
advice. 

For most of the moose hunting in New Brunswick it is 
necessary for the guide to be a good canoe man. He should 
be able to handle his canoe quietly and steadily w'ith either 
pole or paddle. If he sees his game a long way ahead on 
the shores of lake or stream he ought to be able to manage 
his canoe in such a way as to get his sportsman within easy 
range of the game, to steady it for the shot, and to be able 
by his ready watchfulness to tell the sportsman just where 
his bullet struck. 

It is true there are many sportsmen who are able to give 
good accounts of themselves under any conditions. This, 
however, is not the case with the majority of them. Many 
are on their first big gamxchunt and have no experience of 
the woods. If they are good target shots that does not 
necessarily mean they are good game shots. It is the duty 
of the guide to see that the sportsman of little or no ex- 
perience has a fair chance at the game he is after — a fair 
chance according to his ability. It must be remem'bered that 
what is a good chance for an expert is not a fair chance at 
all for a man new to the business. Even when the game 
is moving slowly through the trees it is difficult for a man 
unaccustomed to firing in that way to make a successful shot. 
The guide should know this and not insist upon the sports- 
man shopting unless he is a quick shot and has a fair 
chance. The guide must not think that what is an easy shot 
for him with his experience is anything like an easy shot 
for the sportsman he may be guiding. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 287 

I well remember several j^ears ago guiding a sportsman 
who was a good target shot, though he was slow, as target 
shots usually are. One afternoon we came on a big bull 
moose in a nice open growth of iir trees and the animal 
was only sixty yards awa}'. The bull was walking slowly 
and every few steps he made a slight pause. The chance 
seemed to me a most excellent one and 1 urged him to 
take a shot. The trees, however, bothered him so much 
thai he allowed the bull to walk away without firing. I 
admit that i was provoked and told him sharply that he 
should have taken the chance as it w^as not likely he would 
have a better one. Very quietly he replied to me that 
for a man of his ability at shooting the chance was not a 
good one. I was struck at the time with the justice of his 
answer, and have never forgotten it. Indeed, the more I. 
have thought it over the more I have agreed with it and 
tried to act up to its spirit. 

One of the best pieces of advice I can give to a guide 
is to do his 'best to give the sportsman he may be guiding 
the best chance of a shot according to his abilit}-. Allow 
him also to shoot his game for himself. Don't carry a 
rifle unless requested and then use it only on wounded 
game that might otherwise get away and die in lingering 
agony. It is not satisfactory to either party to have the 
guide shoot the game and give the sportsman the credit 
of the performance. The sportsman will appreciate the 
efforts of the guide to give him a good shot far more 
highly, and if successful he will think far better of that 
guide than if the latter took advantage of a more difficult 
situation and shot the game for him. 

I have heard the assertion made on several occasions 
that the sportsman should do his share of the work with 
the guide. Now I think it is wrong to expect anything of 
the kind. I have seen a few who were willing to do this 
and who really seemed to enjoy it. They were, however, 
very few indeed. Of course, their object in visiting the 
woods is sport and not work. The sportsman is there for 
sport and the guide is there to do the work. 

The sportsman should not be required to carry a pack. 
A man with a pack on has a poor chance of a shot, and 



288 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

when in a game country, when an animal may be met any 
minute, the sportsman should be in a position to fire a 
shot at any time. Carrying a pack is also too much like 
work and the guide is paid to do the work. If there is more 
than one load to carry take another man along to help, 
or go over the portages twice, either way is better than 
giving a pack to the sportsman. It is necessary for a 
guide to be able to cook fairly well even if there is a 
regular cook for the party. Both the sportsman and the 
guide are likely to be away from the main camp on occa- 
sion and perhaps for several days together. At such times 
the guide should prepare some tasty meals. He should 
know how to take care of the game when it is killed and 
be able to prepare the head for mounting. He ought, 
further, to be able to do three days' work in one if the 
occasion calls for it. Above all he should go about his 
duties cheerfully and then they will be performed well. 

The guide, if he knows his business, should anticipate 
most of the wants of the sportsman , and not wait, for 
them to be made known before giving his attention to 
them. I will not go so far as to say that for a man to be 
a good guide it is necessary for him to have had an 
education; but I will say he can make a much better guide 
if he has had one. A good guide should be able to answer 
questions about game, fish, woods and waters with in- 
telligence. 

A man to be a good guide must be sober and industrious 
and if he doesn't use tobacco so much the better. I know 
that many will not agree with me on this point, but readers 
would be surprised to know how many of the best guides 
in America use neither tobacco nor alcoholic liquors. 

The guide should be on deck bright and early in the 
morning prepared to call the sportsman and not waiting 
to Idc himself called. He should likewise be prepared to 
propose hunts and not wait for the sportsman to invite 
him out. He should always speak the truth and never 
exaggerate, particularly with regard to game. There is no 
way by which a guide can lose a man's confidence quicker 
than by exaggerating over game matters,, and once that 
confidence is lost it is by no means easy to regain. When- 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 289 

ever an appointment is made be prompt to the minute, 
indeed be on hand a few minutes before if at all possible. 
Be friendly, but not offensively so; talk when you are in- 
vited, but not too much; be courteous and always willing 
and you will get along. Last but by no means least learn 
to keep your eyes open and your mouth shut — which means 
see all there is to see and make no noise — if you would 
be a successful hunter. 

Guides who follow these rules can command good wages 
and will get work when they are known. Sportsmen are 
good fellows, with very few exceptions, and I have found 
little trouble with the worst I have had. When out on the 
hunt if the sportsman wishes you to carry his coat or 
sweater — carry them. That is what he wishes you to do 
and as he is paying you for carrying out his wishes there 
is no reason to kick if in reason. 

There are however, very great dififerences in the sports- 
men one has to guide. Some go purely for sport and enjoy- 
ment and have a real good time, none the less good if they 
fail to get game, for game with them is not the sole 
object of the outing. These men are of the right sort 
and it is an unalloyed pleasure to be with them. That, 
however, is no reason why they should be taken to a place 
where there is no game. They can be happy without 
killing a whole lot, but they like at least to see the game. 

Then there is the other kind of sportsman whom no 
guide wishes to see. Fortunately there are not many of 
his class, but there are a few, and we have all seen him at 
least once. Pie is the man who doesn't care to hunt, 
it is no pleasure to him; but it is a fad to kill a moose 
and he wants to do it. His moose must be a record breaker 
or he's not satisfied. He is in a desperate hurry and what- 
ever he does must be done quickly. He is the man who 
gets lost in the woods with his guide and the latter might 
have starved there but for his cleverness in getting both 
out. By the time he has been in the woods a week he 
knows more about the game and the country than any 
guide can tell him. 



290 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




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COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 291 



HINTS ABOUT HUNTING 

Best Way for the Inexperienced Sportsman to Get a 
Bag of Wild Ducks 

This is the season when every normal, healthy minded 
man and boy feels an inclination to go a-hiinting. The 
love of a gun and a hankering for healthy sports afield arc- 
as natural to the masculine American as is a periodical 
craving for food. He comes by it honestl}', through inheri- 
tance from forbears who, in hewing homes from the wilder- 
ness, found firearms a necessity as a means of filling the 
dinner pail, as well as a weapon of defense. 

And it is this time of the year when hunting is at its 
best the country over. The, fat of the forest and the field, 
hidden by • fur and feathers, awaits the garnering, and the 
nip of the. frosty air makes the pursuit more exhilarating. 



SHOOTING ON THE WING 

Every boy knows a little about shooting and something 
about game. If he has shot at targets or sparrows with an 
air rifle in the city he should have a degree of success 
in the country shooting rabbits "on the set" with a shot- 
gun. But when it comes to hunting them and hitting them 
on the run it requires a little more practice than the air- 
rifle expert has had. To get within range of a frisky 
squirrel without causing him to run into a hole in a tree 
takes more than marksmanship. And duck shooting, more 
than any other shooting, requires skill and experience. 
Traveling from Canada to Louisiana vrith only two or three 
stops requires strength and speed on the part of the duck 
— and men who remember their first experience in shooting 
broadside at a "red-head" going at wind-splitting speed 
will agree that there are easier targets and slower ones, 
and right now. when the ducks are flying, it will not be 



Sketches for Shot Gun Shooters, 




Sculling for Wild Fowl— About the Shores. 







Duck Hunting from Blinds using Decoys. 

292 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 293 

amiss to tell the novice some facts that have become the 
property of old hunters by trying experience. 

In the first place, no rule holds good in respect to finding 
the ducks. They may be hovering over ponds and lakes when 
you are hunting on the river. The next day you go to the 
lakes, and the river hunters will have good shooting that 
day. And again, you may sit in your river blind from day- 
break until noon and finally get up, disgusted, and go 
home. Then the hunter who comes along and puts out his 
decoys along in the middle of the afternoon may get the 
game. The one sure rule is: If they're there you'll find 
them; if they're not, you won't. 

The facts that usually govern the flight of ducks, how- 
ever, are these: After a cold wave in the autumn the ducks 
seldom stay long in one place and fly and feed irregularly. 
If the air warms again they will linger in the locality where 
they chance to be, provided there is plenty of feed and a 
wide enough expanse of water. If on the river at daybreak 
they usually will rise and fly soon afterward to feeding 
grounds; if in large flocks they will fly to ponds where 
wild rice, "duck potatoes" or other marsh food grows. Oc- 
casionally they will visit a cornfield or a cattle feeding lot 
if secluded. Toward noon they usually return to the river 
and sun themselves, paddling around sand bars until late 
afternoon, when they take another flight toward their shelter 
or feeding ground, either on the still sidewater coves along 
the river or in the marsh grass about the lakes. This 
is the schedule that gives rise to the general opinion among 
hunters that lake and pond shooting is better in the morn- 
ing and evenings and river shooting better during the mid- 
dle of the day. 



Ducks Fast Flyers 

This habit of action is that most generally carried out 
by the ducks, in both fall and spring, in the middle states. 
Some varieties of the birds, however, are governed by no 



.294 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

such rules. The redheads and the canvas backs, for ex- 
ample, seldom leave the rivers and usually stop only after 
long flights. Both are unusually fast flyers. 

The prime essential in hunting ducks is to select a suit- 
able stand. If on a river and ducks are flying high in 
large flocks, select a sand bar at the beginning of a large 
bend in the stream. That is, choose a place over .which 
the flocks will fly in "cutting off" a big bend. Being in the 
"line of flight" counts for a great deal in river shooting. 
Learn the natural crossing places of. the fowl and then pre- 
pare a good blind, or shooting box in which to sit and 
await results, after setting out decoys. 

The one rule in building a "blind" is to make it appear 
as near like its surroundings as possible. In addition to 
that make it high enough or deep enough to hide you from 
the water without being cramped, for often when the birds 
show friendliness toward your decoys they will alight in 
the water a long way from the wooden ducks and take their 
time about swimming close to the inanimate swimmers. 
It will be a long, tiresome wait until they get within range 
if ycu haven't room to sit comfortably. 



Building: a Blind 



'fc> 



If there is an abundance of drift wood along the water's 
edge make a blind out of it. If the shores are free from 
drift or shrubs dig a hole in the sand large enough to hold 
one or two shooters, make the opening no longer than 
is absolutely necessary. It may be made less conspicuous 
by partly covering with boards, throwing sand over this 
improvised roof to hide the boards from view. Wear cloth- 
ing the same color as the surrounding shrubbery or back- 
ground. Brown clothing for sand bars is best. Above all 
else, avoid wearing a black hat or coat, as the birds are ex- 
tremely wary of black objects. For ordinary shooting put 
out at least two dozen decoys, placing them about seventy- 
five feet from the blind and scattering them in uneven 
positions. Then get into the blind and await the game. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 295 

Duck shooting is neither an art nor a science; it is a 
combination of both, made possible only by practice. Neither 
does it follow that because a man may be a good trap-shot 
at clay or live birds he will be a good wing shot in the 
blind. There are few "straight-away" shots from the blinds 
and many cross shots, with an exceedingly swift target. 
It is the fast cross shots and the quick, startled rises that 
puzzle the beginner. 



Mistakes In Wing Shooting 

The first mistake a novice usually makes is to aim 
directly at the fleeing target. This will sometimes prove 
effective on a "straight-away" at short range, but more 
often it fails. It is necessary to "lead" the object, that is, 
aim a little ahead of it, to be successful. Just how much to 
lead the target depends upon the distance from the mark, 
the rate it is traveling and the nature of the powder used. 

Formerly when black powder was used exclusivel}*, hunt- 
ers used to aim about two feet ahead of a fast duck on a 
cross shot. But scarcely any hunters "burn soft coal," 
since the introduction of the quicker and stronger smoke- 
less powder and the result is that the leads are shorter,, 
usually about a foot. 

Snap shooting is the name applied to the style of shoot- 
ing usually followed by the best trapshooters and lield shoot- 
ers. It consists of aiming directly at a space just ahead 
of the moving object and pulling the trigger without follow- 
ing the line of flight by moving the gun. A snap shot is 
usually the most effective in all kinds of shooting, accord- 
ing to experienced marksmen. It is easy to misjudge dis- 
tances on or over water, and a mistake common to the 
novice is to shoot at a bird beyond killing range. 



American Game Birds. 

Sportsman's Favorites. 




The PJover 





The Woodcock. 



Male and Female Mallards. 




The Wood Duck. 




296 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 297 



HABITS OF THE WILD DUCK 

The wild duck pairs very early in the year — the period 
being somewhat delayed by hard weather, and the cere- 
monies of courtship, which require some little time. Soon 
after these are performed the respective couples separate in 
search of suitable nesting-places, which are generally found, 
by those that remain with us, about the middle of ^larch. 
The sf)ot chosen is sometimes near a river or pond, but 
often very far removed from water, and it may be under a 
furze-bush, on a dry heath, at the bottom of a thick hedge- 
row, or even in any convenient hole in a tree. A little 
dry grass is generally collected, and on it the eggs, from 9 
to 11 in number, are laid. So soon as incubation commences 
the mother begins to divest herself of the down which grows 
thickly beneath her breast-feathers, and adds it to the nest- 
furniture, so that the eggs are deeply imbedded in this heat- 
retaining substance — a portion of which she is always care- 
ful to pull, as a coverlet, over her treasures when she quits 
them for food. She is seldom absent from the nest, how- 
ever, but once, or at most twice, a day, and then she dares 
not leave it until her mate after several circling flights of 
observation has assured her she may do so unobserved. 
Joining him the pair betake themselves to some quiet spot 
where she may bathe and otherwise refresh herself. Then 
they return to the nest, and after cautiously feconnoitering 
the neighborhood she loses no time in reseating herself on 
her eggs, while he, when she is settled, repairs again to the 
waters, and passes his day listlessly in the company of his 
brethren, who have the same duties, hopes and cares. Short 
and infrequent as are the absences of the Duck when incuba- 
tion begins, they become shorter and more infrequent 
towards its close, and for the last day or two of the 28 
necessary to develop the young it is probable that she will 
not stir from the nest at all. When all the fertile eggs are 
hatched her next care is to get the brood safely to the water. 
This, when the distance is great, necessarily demands great 
caution, and so cunningly is it done that but few persons 
have encountered the mother and offspring as they make 



298 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

the dangerous journey. If disturbed the young instantly hide 
as they best can, while the mother quacks loudly, feigns 
lameness, and flutters off to divert the attention of the in- 
truder from her brood, who lie motionless at her warning 
notes. Once arrived at the water they are comparatively free 
from harm, though other perils present themselves from 
its inmates in the form of pike and other voracious fishes, 
which seize the ducklings as they disport in quest of insects 
on the surface or dive beneath it. Throughout the summer 
the duck continues her care unremittingly, until the young 
are full grown and feathered: but it is no part of the mal- 
lard's duty to look after his offspring, and indeed he speedily 
becomes incapable of helping them, for towards the end of 
May he begins to undergo that extraordinary additional 
moult, loses the power of flight, and does not regain his 
full plumage till autumn. About harvest-time the young 
are well able to shift for themselves, and then resort to the 
corn-fields at evening, where they fatten on the scattered 
grain. Towards the end of September or beginning of 
October both old and young unite in large flocks and betake 
themselves to the larger waters, many of which are fitted 
with the ingenious appliances for catching them known as 
decoys. These are worked on all favorable occasions during 
the winter, but the numbers taken vary greatly — success 
depending so much on the state of the weather. If long- 
continued frost prevail, most of the ducks resort to the 
estuaries and tidal rivers, or even leave these islands almost 
entirely. Soon after Christmas the return flight commences, 
and then begins anew the course of life already described. 



THE CORRECT LOADS TO USE 

This table is an absolute guide to the proper or choice 
loads to use for various kinds of game. Follow it rigidly and 
you will always be properly equipped for the field: 

Duck— 314 or 3H Drams Dead Shot, l}i ounces No. 6 Shot. 

Goose— 3>4 Drams Dead Shot, V/g ounces No. 2 or B B 
Shot. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 299 

Plover — 3 Drams Dead Shot, 1% ounces Xo. 8 Shot. 

Rail — 3 Drams Dead Shot, V/s ounces No. 9 Shot. 

Snipe and Woodcock — 3 Drams Dead Shot, 1% ounces Xo, 
8 or 9 Shot. 

Quail — 3 or 3]4 Drams Dead Shot, 1% ounces Xo. S Shot. 

Prairie Chicken — 3M Drams Dead Shot, 1^ ounces Xo. 6 
or 7 Shot. 

Rabbit and Squirrel — 3 Drams Dead Shot, 1% ounces Xo. 
7 Shot. 

Dove-.-3 or 3^4 Drams Dead Shot, 1% ounces Xo. 7 or 8 
Shot. 

Grouse or Partridge — 3^4 Drams Dead Shot, 15^ ounces 
Xo. 7 Shot. 

Wild Turkey — 3K' Drams Dead Shot, 11^ ounces Xo. 2 
Shot. 



HINTS ON RIFLE SHOOTING. 

1. Hold the butt hrmly against the shoulder, and do not 
turn the head away at the instant of pulling the trigger. 
Fire low rather than too high. Do not flinch or jerk the 
trigger. 

2. After firing a few shots on a dr}-, hot day, the bullets 
gradually fall lower and lower, in consequence of the foul- 
ing of the barrel. The barrel should be kept clean, and, as 
far as possible, not over-heated. 

3. The condition of the atmosphere noticeably affects the 
course of ths bullet. The more moisture there is in the 
air, the less the elevation required. The bullet is frequently 
noticed to fall immediately after a rain. Warm air offers 
less resistance to the bullet than does cold air. A fall of 
20° in temperature will cause the bullet to lower ten or' 
eleven inches at 300 yards range. In firing over water the 
elevation must be increased, in conseciuence of the lower 
temperature of the air over the water. In ascending the 
mountain the air becomes more and more rare, and con- 
sequently the resistance to the bullet is less on the mountain 
than at Its base. Mirage, an optical illusion occurring in 
level districts on very warm days, causes the target to ap- 
parently raise in the air and become distorted in shape. 



Sketches for Shot Gun Shooters. 




Flight Shooting on Regular Feeding Ground?. 




Wild Geese Shooting.' (Lay Down Blinds and Decoys) 

300 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 301 

This materially affects such objects as are near the ground, 
and engenders a tendency to shoot too high. 

4. The influence of light and shade on the firing is very 
remarkable. On a bright day the target is refracted so as 
to apparently stand higher, which would theoretically require 
a lower elevation than on a very dull day. When the light 
shines directly on the target, when the target is against a 
light background (so that the details are better brought 
out), jvhen the sun shines on the firer's back, when the at- 
mosphere is clear, when the ground is level and uniform in 
appearance or when it gradually rises toward the target, 
the same will appear much nearer, and will theoretically 
require a higher elevation. The best shooting is invariably 
done on cloudy days when the sun's light is evenly diffused. 
It is very difficult to shoot well when passing clouds intercept 
portions of the sun's light and heat. It is readily seen how 
this disturbance might set up currents in the air which would 
tend to carry the bullet from its course, and how the rays 
of light deflected from their course before reaching the eye 
would cause the target to apparently occupy a false position. 
It will be well to diminish the elevation should the sun sud- 
denly appear and light up the target while the firer still re- 
mains in the shade, and to increase it should the target re- 
main in the shade while the sun shines on the firer. 

5. Bright sights and barrels are obviously objectionable. 
The reflection of the sun's light on the sights causes them to 
appear as brilliant points and precludes the possibility of an 
accurate aim. If the sun's rays come laterally the trouble 
will be yet greater, inasmuch as they will brighten the rear 
side of the front sight and the opposite side of 'the rear sight 
notch and cause a tendency to shoot away from the sun. 

The refraction of the sun's rays from the polished barrel 
causes the target to become indistinct and to assume the 
appearance of motion. The sights and the barrel about the 
muzzle should be blackened with smoke if nothing better is 
at hand. 

6. The effect of the wind upon the 'trajectory and the 
allowance to be made therefor are most troublesome ques- 
tions for the marksman. Winds are generally classified as 
follows: 



302 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

Gentle, 4 miles per hour. 
Moderate, 10 miles per hour. 
Fresh, 20 miles per hour. 
Strong, 35 miles per hour. 
Very high, 50 miles per hour. 
Gale, 80 miles per hour. 

Inasmuch as the wind is continually changing in intensity 
and direction, it is almost impossible to make tables of 
allowances for it. The best skill and judgment of the marks- 
man are brought into play when firing in mountain districts, 
where there are many cross-currents with which to contend. 
All winds, except toward the target, retard the bullet and 
render a higher elevation necessary. A wind from the rear 
helps the bullet and tends to high shooting. Experience 
has shown it necessary to alter the wind gauge twelve or 
more feet between two consecutive shots over a range of 
1,000 yards, in order to make a bull's eye each time, when 
the Vv'ind was too high or variable. The inclination is gen- 
erally to under-estimate for wind allowance, nearly every one 
disliking to aim far away from the target. I believe that 
any one with a good mind and clear sight, possessing nerve, 
coolness and a quick connection between will and finger, 
can by practice and endeavors to correct 'the inaccuracies 
pointed out in this chapter, do good shooting. 

In firing tlie trigger, finger should never be quickly pulled 
or jerked, instead exert a slow steady pull increase, or you 
will depress to muzzle and spoil the aim. Amateurs fre- 
quenth' jerk so hard that the bullet after strikes top ground 
half wa}' between the object fired at. If the bullets are 
waxed much, it fills or clogs the barrel, especially if miuch 
shooting is done, hence a lubricant should be used, or an 
oiled rag on a stout string, occasionally drawn through the 
barrel from chamber to muzzle, so as to prevent fouling, 
a clean barrel shoots straighter than a dirty one and the recoil 
is not so much, a dirty gun always kicks. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 303 



GOOD BOOKLETS FOR SPORTSMEN, CAMP- 
ERS, SHOOTERS, TRAPPERS, GUIDES, ETC. 

"In the Maine Woods"— G. M. Houghton, P. T. M., Bangor 
& Aroostook Railroad Co., Bangor, Me. 

"In the Fish and Game Country" — General Passenger 
Agent,»Boston & }klaine Railroad, Boston, Mass. 

"Long Island"— H. M. Smith, G. P. A., Long Island Rail- 
road. 2G3 Fifth Avenue, New York Cit}'. 

"The Adirondacks" — Passenger Department, Delaware & 
Hudson Company, Albany, X. Y. 

"The Adirondack IMountains" — General Passenger Agent, 
New York Central Railroad, New York City. 

"Fishing and Shooting" — Robert Kerr, P. T. ]\I., Canadian 
Pacific Railroad, Montreal. Can. 

"Haunts of the Fish and Game"— G. T. Bell, G. P. & T. 
.\., Grand Trunk Railroad, Montreal, Can. 

The famous Canadian Adirondacks — Alex. Hardy, G. P. 
A., Quebec & Lake St. John Ry., Quebec, Can. 

"Sportsman's Map of the Dominion of Canada" — Robert 
Kerr, P. T. M., Canadian Pacific Railroad, Montreal, Can. 

"Moose, Deer, etc." — Intercolonial Railway of Canada. 
Moncton, New Brunswick. Also Geo. H. Shaw, T. M., 
Canada Northern Railway, Winnipeg, Manitoba. 

"Rangeley Lakes and the Dead River Region" — F. E. 
Boothby, G. P. A., Maine Central Railroad, Portland, Me. 

"Canoe and Paddle"— L. F. Tobie, Asst. G. P. A., Wash- 
ington County Ry., Calais, Me. 

/'Caribou Hunting"— J. W. Johnstone, G. P. A., Reid 
Newfoundland Co., St. Johns, N. F. (5c. postage). 

"Fish and Game of Michigan, Wisconsin, ^vlinnesota, 
North Dakota"— W. R. Callaway, G. P. A., Soo Line, Minne- 
apolis, ]\Iinn. 

"Shooting and Fishing"— A. L. Craig, G. P. & T. A., 
Great Northern Ry., St. Paul, Minn. 

"Fishing and Hunting"— W. B. Kniskern, P. T. M., Chi- 
cago & Northwestern Ry., 315 Jackson Boulevard, Chicago, 
111. 



American Wild FowU==and Shooting, 




Mallard Duck. 




Teal Duck. 




Duck Shooting on the Feeding Grounds with the 
New Automatic Shot Gun. 




Canvas Back Dack. 




Canada Goose. 



304 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 305 

"The Lakes of Wisconsin and Minnesota" — F. A. Miller, 
G. P. A., Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Ry., Chicago, 111. 

"Minnesota Lakes"— A. M. Cleland, G. P. A., Northern 
Pacific Ry., St. Paul, Minn. 

"Camping and Hunting in the Southwest" — W, S. St. 
George, G. P. & T. A., Missouri, Kansas & Texas Ry., St. 
Louis, Mo. 

GcTod Hunting for Ducks, Geese, Chickens, etc., F. A. 
Miller, G. P. A., Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Ry.. Chi- 
cago, 111. 

"Hunting and Fishing in the North Woods" — J. C. 
Pond, G. P. A., Milwaukee, Wis. 

"Hunting in the Southwest"— H. C. Townsend, G. P. A., 
Missouri Pacific Ry., St. Louis, Mo. 

"Fishing and Hunting in Michigan" — H. F. Moeller, G. 
P. A., Pere Marquette R. R., Detroit, Mich. 

"Feathers and Fins on the Frisco" — A. Hilton. G. P. A., 
Frisco System, St. Louis, Mo. 

"Hunting in the South"— W. H. Tayloe, G. P. A., Southern 
Railway, Washington, D. C. 

"Quail, Turkey, Ducks, etc."— W. J. Craig, G. P. A., 
Atlantic Coast Line, Wilmington, N. C; also C. B. Ryan, 
G. P. A., Seaboard Air Line, Portsmouth, Va. 

"Camping in the Rocky Mountains" — S. K. Hooper, G. P. 
& T. A., Denver & Rio Grande System, Denver, Colo. 

"Texas Gulf Coast Outings"— G. F. Lupton, G. P. A., 
San Antonio & Aransas Pass Railway Co., San Antonio, Tex. 

"North Country Fishing and Hunting"— G. W. Hibbard, 
G. P. A., Duluth, South Shore & Atlantic Ry., jNIarquette, 
Mich. 

"Hunter's and Fishermen's Guide"— W. J. Kealey, G. P. 
A., Chicago, Kalamazoo & Saginaw Ry., Kalamazoo, Mich. 

"A Sportman's Paradise"— T. J. Anderson. G. P. A., G. H. 
& S. A. Ry., Houston, Tex. 

"Mexico"— G. W. Hibbard, G. P. A., National Lines of 
Mexico, Colonia Station, Mexico City, Mexico. 

(Note — In addressing a letter requesting these booklets 
enclose postage and kindly mention this book and author.) 



••HINTS FOFc SHOT GUN SHOOTERS'* 




Something Wrong. 

A Series of Suggestions as to 

LOADS. CHARGE.S, WADS, RELLOADING. 

SIGHTING. GUNS, SHOT, 

POWDER. SHE,LLS. 

Miscellaneous Information, Etc. 



Points for 

Rifle Users 




Hints for 

Hunters and 
Campers 



SEE ALSO "TRAPPERS TRICKS 
306 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 307 



SNARES. 

Snares are not very certain, but they are little trouble to 
make. They must be set in the paths or runs of the birds 
it is intended to take. They are of horse hair or thin copper 
wire tied in a running knot. The tendency of every bird 
when it finds itself touched about the head is to push for- 
ward. This draws the knot tighter, until the bird kills 
itself.* 



TO TRAP SQUIRRELS. 

In trapping squirrels, set a steel trap on the upper rail 
of a fence near where they frequent: set a pole with an 
ear of corn, or some other squirrel food fastened to the end 
of it, up against the side of the fence, leaning in such a posi- 
tion as to spring the bait over the trap at a height of six 
or nine inches; when the squirrel reaches to get the bait 
he will get into the trap. 



SIEVE TRAP. 

Take a large sieve and prop it up with a stick, to the 
middle of which one end of a piece of string is tied. Strew 
some crumbs of bread or seeds under the trap, and also a 
few near b}-; and, taking the other end of the string in 3'our 
hand, retire and conceal yourself at some distance, until 
the birds are attracted by the bait. As soon as you see them 
feeding directl}' under the trap, jerk the string quickly and 
the sieve falls. This is the simplest of boy's traps, but 
answers very well when there is time to spare. When 
a chicken is wanted about the farm house, it is often time 
saved to catch it in this way. 



QUAIL TRAP. 

A quail trap may be any kind of coop, supported by a 
figure four. The spindle of the figure must either be so 
made as to hold grain, or. what is better, some grains of 




o 



V 
O 






V 

o 
c 
a 
U 

to 

c 
■*^ 
c 

D 

X 

-o 
c 

W 



O 

Q 



o 

Oh 




308 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 309 

wheat or buckwheat are strung over a strong thread with 
the aid of a needle, and tied to the spindle. Quails and 
prairie hens easily enter a trap when the ground is covered 
with snow. At other times it is rather difficult to catch 
them. 



HAWK AND OWL TRAPS. 

To catch hawks or owls, take a pole 20 feet long, to be 
set a short distance from the house or barn or on the poultry 
house. Split the top so as to admit the base of a common 
steel trap, which should be made fast. When both trap and 
pole are set you may b? sure of game of some kind. These 
birds naturally light on high objects, such as dead branches 
of trees or tops of stacks, and one should use judgment 
about the place where he puts the traps. An open field, 
near the chicken yard, is probably best. 



TO TRAP RABBITS. 

To trap rabbits take brass wire, make a noose large 
enough for them to put their head through; then trim a 
small tree near their road, fasten the wire to the top, bend 
over and fasten by a notch to a peg driven in the ground, 
then make a fence of fine brush a little across their road, 
leaving a hole to hang the wire in. Some use box traps, 
baited with sweet apple; also steel traps laid in their roads 
and fastened. 



GOPHER TRAP. 

Take a hard piece of wood, about nine inches long, and 
turn' it so that one end will be two and a half inches in 
diameter and the other end three inches, gradually sloping 
from one end to the other. Witli a two-inch auger bore a 
hole in the small end eight inches deep. Then take a fine- 
toothed rip saw and split it open from end to end in two 



Hints and Pointers ior Hunters, Sportsmen, Etc, 

A s^Hes of suggestions invaluable to those who possess 
A series oi SS^.^^^^ ^.^^ ^^ g^o^ gun. 




Toting the Game to Camp. 
(How to do it.) 




Th.e 



Camp in tbe Wooa.. (Cut Poles for Tent Poles ) 



310 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 311 

equal parts. In one of these halves a spring door is fixed, 
made of sheet iron, which is round like the opening and 
curved to fit down in the ha|f. This is made, fast on a hinge 
near the entrance, with a spring under it sufficient to raise 
it to a perpendicular, the hinge so arranged that it can only 
be raised to a perpendicular. Another piece of sheet iron, 
made round to move easily in the two-inch opening, is 
made, which is attached to a long, narrow strip- of iron, 
which strip moves easily under two staples in the bottom 
of tire half to which the door is fastened. In order to set 
the trap, the door is pressed down, and the end of this 
strip projects over it, and thus holds the door open. Then 
take the two halves and put them together, and slip over 
them a thin wide ring, made sloping like the trap, and it 
is ready for use. With this trap you go out where the 
gopher is at work, and find his last made hillock, and if it 
is not quite finished, all you have to do is to stick the trap 
in the hole, open end downward, and in a short time he 
will bring up his load of dirt, and, in pressing against the 
upper piece of iron he will push the strip of iron from over 
the door, when the spring will lift it up and shut him in. 



FARMER'S TRAP, FOR MINK, WEASELS, 
SKUNK, ETC. 

Take boards half an inch thick, and make a box the two 
sides and top 12 inches long, with one end closed; the size 
of the box inside being 4 inches square. A steel spring is 
fastened on the closed end of the box, to which is fastened 
a square ring at its extremitjs through which the game 
thrusts its head to reach the bait at the one end of a catch, 
which holds the ring depressed and held by a wire running 
from the front end of the trap to the catch on the upper 
extremity of the bait hook. One who has tried it exten- 
sively says: "This is the best trap for skunks in the world, 
I believe, I have used many dififeren't kinds, but none vv^ork 
as well as this. You can set it at the hole in a wall or 
fence. It is sure fire." 



313 



COMiPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



SMOKE 'EM OUT AND SECURE PRIME FUR 

Old successful and experienced trappers smoke out and 
drive animals from their dens. Every experienced trapper 
knows that animals can not stand smoke. Until this smoker 
was invented it was next to impossible to force smoke into 
an animal's den in sufficient quantity to drive them out on 
account of the dead air condition existing in such places. 




'UT*Mii2k.Skui!k,*'Cooii;'Eabbsts,etc. 

with 




The smoker is so constructed that it will pioduce a dense 
volume of stifling sulphur smoke and force it into the ani- 
mal's den with sufficient pressure to mix with, the dead air, 
penetrating into every part of the den, driving the animal out. 

It is loaded with a cartridge and lighted. The plunger is 
then worked back and forth as shown in illustration, fanning 





The Bellows Smoker. 

the fire and forcing the smoke out of the nozzle at the lower 
end of the smoker into the animal's den. No animal can 
withstand these strong sulphuric fumes. 

It will be found invaluable in driving out skunk, "coon," 
fox, rabbits, etc. It will make a mink leave its den in two 
or three minutes. This invention is a very valuable asset to 
the trapper, especially during extreme cold weather, when 
fur-bearers den up and hibernate. Trappers can smoke out 
more animals in one day than they can take in traps in a 
month — besides they get prime furs. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 313 

HOW TO USE PNEUMATIC SMOKERS 

Graphite should be used to lubricate plunger. Oil can be 
applied first to make the graphite adhere to the packing. 
Place a few small sticks, corncobs, etc., in the fire chamber. 
To make a strong, stifling smoke use one part sulphur to 
four parts powdered charcoal. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of 
this mixture upon cotton or old cotton rags, roll and tie into 
cartri4ges 5 inches long by 1^ inches in thickness. A 
supply of these cartridges should be made up in advance of 
field operations. Place one or two of these cartridges in the 
fire chamber and the smoker is ready to use. 

When you have located your game and have set traps, etc., 
to apprehend the animal when it is smoked out, take out the 
plunger and point nozzle up to create a draft. Light con- 
tents of fire cham'ber with a roll of paper, then insert the 
plunger and fan fire by working it back and forth slowly 
at first until cartridges are fully ignited. Insert nozzle and 
fill the den full of this strong smoke. No animal can with- 
stand these sulphuric fumes. In smoking out large animals 
where the mouth of the burrow is large, best results are ob- 
tained by attaching a few feet of hose to the nozzle and 
packing around hose with old sacks, etc., to keep in smoke. 
In smoking out mink, weasel, gopher, etc., a hose will not be 
necessary. Leaves or some light material can be used to 
prevent smoke escaping from hole where trap is set. 

Caution. — Never use any kind of oil, tar or turpentine in 
fire chamber. 

An old, successful and experienced trapper -designed this 
valuable sportsmen's device to smoke out and drive animals 
from their dens. ' Letters from trappers indicate that they 
certainly appreciate this smoker. "It fills one of their long 
felt wants." 



"ALLIGATOR" GAME TRAP 

This trap catches animals by the neck or body instead of 
the feet, killing them instantly without injuring the pelt. A 
humane feature that is very commendable; besides it saves 
every fur for the trapper. It -is the only trap ever con- 
structed with a double trip action, a bait trigger and a foot 



314 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




The "Alligator" and Tree Trap with Double jaws. 




Caught this Pile of Birds. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



315 



pedal trip, the very acme of the trap-maker's art. It can be 
set on land or in water at entrance to dens, in runways, etc., 
with or without bait. An ideal trap for saving furs of musk- 
rat, mink, skunk and the smaller fur-bearing animals. There's 
no escape, the trapper gets every pelt. It is an excellent tree 




The "Alligator" Game Trap. 



trap for taking marten in the far north, where deep snows 
occur. The upper jaw forms a support for covering to pro- 
tect the bait from snow, birds, etc. 

It is especially serviceable in catching muskrat under the 
ice in winter, as it can be baited and set on bottom of lakes 
or streams where they search for food. It can also be em- 
ployed in this manner in taking fish. 

No one will understand the above description better or 
appreciate the merits of this trap more than the trapper who 
has run his leg off on a long trap line to find a lot of animals' 
toes in his traps. 



316 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

SPORTSMEN AND TRAPPERS TAXIDERMY 
OR BACKWOODS TAXIDERMY 

With a slight knowledge of taxidermy, the hunter can 
prepare and preserve hard earned trophies of the chase. 
The following tools and materials are all that are abso- 
lutely needed: 

A heavy and light scalpel, or good pocket knife, scis- 
sors, needles and thread, cotton wadding, or any soft ma- 
terial if not obtainable; arsenic, alum, saltpetre, carbolic 
acid, paper for wrappers, and a little bran, meal or fine 
sawdust to use when skinning. 

To Make a Bird Into a Skin — Lay the bird on its back 
and make a longitudinal cut from the breast bone to the 
vent. Push the body away from the skin with the knife, 
holding the skin firmly between the fingers and thumb of 
the left hand, and avoid cutting as much as possible. When 
the skin has been removed far enough to expose the shins, 
unjoint them at the knee, and cut through the flesh until 
the skin is laid bare. Skin down to the vent and cut off 
the extremity of the body which holds the tail feathers, 
and remove the skin to the wings, unjointing them and 
skinning to below the eyes. Cut the neck off close to the 
head, and remove the triangular, lower part of the skull, 
and the brains. Take out the eyes, and cut away all super- 
fluous flesh from the skull, leg, and wing bones and unjoint 
the main bone of the wing from the double bones or fore- 
arm. 

(In skinning large birds, break the wings close to the 
body at the commencement, as it will facilitate the hand- 
ling and skinning.) 

Pass a thread through the wing bones and draw them 
nearly together, tying them in position. Cram the eye holes 
full of cotton, wrap the leg bones with the same, and 
draw them back in natural position. Dust the whole flesh 
side of the skin freely with dry arsenic, and return the skin. 
Should the neck become stretched, and difficult to return, 
soap it, and it will slip over the head easily. Smooth the 
plumage, fill out the body, sew up the skin, cross the legs 
and tie them, and wrap the skin closely in sheet cotton, 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 317 

or thin paper. A skin thus prepared will keep for fifty 
years or more, and can be naturally mounted at any time. 

Mounting Birds with Closed Wings — Lay the specimen 
on its back and fill the throat with cotton to keep the saliva 
from soiling the plumage. If the bird is a large one, such 
as a hawk, owl, raven, gull, etc., it should have the nostrils 
crowded full of cotton to prevent similar disastrous effects. 
If a bird is bloody, wash the soiled parts in cold water and 
dry the, feathers as much as possible with a dry rag or 
sponge, and cover them with calcined plaster, which can 
be had in any paint store, rubbing it lightly into the plum- 
age until the feathers are dry and assume their natural ap- 
pearance. To remove the plaster from the feathers beat 
the bird vigorously with the wing of a bird or fowl. When 
cleaned, lay the bird on its back and make a longitudinal 
cut from the breast bone to the vent. Push the body away 
from the skin with a scalpel, holding the latter firmly between 
the fingers and thumb of the left hand, and avoid cutting as 
much as possible. When the skin has been removed far 
enough to expose the shins, unjoint them at the knee, and 
cut through the fleshy part of the knee until the skin is 
laid bare. Skin down to the vent and cut off the extremity 
of the body which holds the tail feathers, and remove the 
skin to the wings. Unjoint the wings and skin to below 
the eyes. Cut the neck off close to the skull and remove the 
under part of the skull, and from the hole thus made take 
out the brains. Remove the eyes and all superfluous flesh 
from the skull, leg and wing bones, and sever the main bone 
of the wing from the double bones or fore-arm. In skinning 
large birds, breaking the wings close to the body before 
removing it will facilitate the skinning. Roll up a small 
ball of tow and crowd it tightly into the skull. Point a 
piece of wire at both ends by filing, and twist the tow around 
it the length and size of the natural neck, commencing 
an inch or two inches from one end, according to the size 
of the bird to be mounted. Pass the short end of the wire 
up through the tow in the head and occipital bone (hind 
part of skull), and clinch it firmly by repassing the end of 
the wire through the fore part of the skull, and fasten it 
through the eye hole with a pair of pliers. Fill the eyes out 
to nearly their natural size with soft putty, and dust the 



318 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

whole fleshy side of the skin with dry arsenic, best applied 
with the hind feet of a rabbit or hare. Between the wings, 
and on the shoulders of the bird, are two yellowish lines, 
where the feathers are inclined to protrude through the 
skin. These lines should be caught up with a needle and 
drawn nearly together and tied in position. In a skin of 
a bird of the size of a red-tailed hawk, they should be (when 
tied) an inch and a half apart. Other bird skins should be 
drawn up in proportion to their size. Return the leg bones 
in position, and also the skin, by passing the head through 
the neck. Pick out the eye lids in their usual form with a 
needle or pincers, and arrange the plumage smoothly. Make 
a body the size of the original one by rolling up a bunch 
of excelsior, or sea grass, and winding it into form with 
twine or thread. Pass the neck wire through the body length- 
wise, pull the skin carefully over the body, and clinch the 
protruding neck wire firmly. Never use soft bodies, as 
they will not hold wire sufficiently tight to keep a bird in 
position. Wire the legs by putting pointed wires through 
them from the center of the feet. Fasten the leg bones 
to the wires by w^rapping them with tow, making the legs 
a little smaller than they naturally are, and slip the wire 
further through the legs and let them pass obliquely through 
the body from the side to the fore breast. Clinch the leg 
wires firmly into the body, straighten the legs parallel with 
the sides of the body, and sew up the hole in the skin. 
Smooth down the plumage, 'bend in any natural position, 
and mount on a stand. Fill the throat out slightly with 
cotton or tow, and apply a little mucilage to the inside of 
the eye lids. Press the eyes tightly in position, and pick 
out the eye lids over the eyes as required with the point of a 
needle. Fasten the 'bill together by passing a needle and 
thread through the nostrils and base of under mandible and 
tie -in position. To wire the tail is one of the most delicate 
tasks for the tyro, and should be done as follows: Pass 
a long pointed piece of small wire through each tail feather, 
at the flat part of the quill near the body, and spread the 
tail as desired. Another large wire should be run through 
the fleshy part of the skin (at the base of the tail) into the 
body from the under side of the tail, thus fastening it in 
any position wanted. Fasten the wings by sticking a sharp 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 319 

piece of wire through the shoulder of the wing into the 
body. Stick small pieces of wire in different parts of the 
body, and wind the bird tightly with ftne thread, thus hold- 
ing the plumage in position until dry. The plumage maj'- 
be made to lie smoother by touching the rough places with 
a feather wet in turpentine. When collecting, one should 
note the color of the eyes, legs, cere, gullar sack, etc., of 
birds when first killed, as it may be naturally reproduced 
by paint when the birds are mounted and dry. 

T(f Preserve Birds Temporarily — Birds can be preserved 
for a few da3'S during hot weather as follows: If a large 
bird is killed, first swab out the blood from the throat if 
necessary, and distribute powdered alum and saltpetre (one 
part saltpetre, six parts alum) the entire length of the throat, 
and push some of it into the crop with a stick; rub a little 
of the preservative into and around the eyes externally; 
draw the entrails from the specimen through a small hole, 
made longitudinally into the vent, and prime the inside 
of the 'bird with the powder; -put a small piece of cotton 
down the throat, and cram the nostrils full of the same 
material, to prevent the saliva and blood from coming out 
on to the plumage. Car*bolic acid is also a good disin- 
fectant and preservative. Take a small bottle of water 
and put a teaspoonful of acid into it, and apply the mix- 
ture to the most perishable parts of a specimen in the same 
manner as directed to use the saltpetre and alum. Pieces of 
cotton or tow, wet with the acid and water, should be 
placed in the vent and throat of the bird. Should one wish 
to keep any hard feathered birds, such as loons, grebes, 
auks, guillemots, gulls, ducks, etc., they should be drawn 
and thrown into a pickle of saltpetre and alum, and any 
good taxidermist can mount and clean them when desired. 

To Prepare a Buck's Head — To preserve a buck's head, 
make a cut across the head from the middle of one horn 
across the skull to the middle of the other antler; then make 
a cut from the middle of the incision made down the -back 
of the neck to the shoulders; cut the skin around and a 
little below the neck until it is free from the fore shoulders, 
and continue to skin the neck up to the base of the antlers; 
cut the skin carefully away from around the horns, and 
skin down over the muzzle; skin the ears part way down, 



320 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

trim away the flesh from the skin, and rub the whole 
fleshy side of it with the powdered alum and saltpetre, and 
if no other preservative is at hand use salt. Turn the 
fleshy side of the pelt to the open air, and dry as soon as 
possible. The skin will shrivel up to the dimensions of 
an old boot leg, which it resem'bles in shape, but neverthe- 
less it will be in good condition. Chop away the part ot 
the skull to which the horns are attached, enlarge the hole 
in the occipital bone, remove the brains, dust what remains 
of the skull with any preservative, and hang the horns in 
a convenient crotch of a tree until the camp is deserted. 

Never cut a deer skin down the front of the neck, unless 
you want an ugly looking seam to mar the beauty of a 
head. Should a deer be wounded or killed, it is not neces- 
sary to cut his head nearly off to bleed him, and if a deer 
is shot through the lungs or near the heart, it does not need 
bleeding, as the blood will settle in the thorax and can 
easily be turned out when the animal is dressed. What 
looks worse than a deer with his head nearly cut off, and 
its coat covered with blood, which will become half putrid 
in a few days in mild weather, unless it is washed off from 
the hair when fresh? Never wash out a deer after dress- 
ing it unless you are desirous of spoiling your venison. 
When saving saddles, let them cool and stiffen 'before fold- 
ing the 'skin over them. So do not mangle your game 
and spoil your skins and meat by slashing animals to pieces 
with a huge butcher knife. 

Skinning Small Quadrupeds — Begin by making a longi- 
tudinal incision between the hind legs, extending quite 
back to the vent, the hair having been carefully parted so 
that it may not be cut. Do not cut into the abdominal 
cavity. The skin can now be separated from the flesh and 
turned back as far as the thigh, which is severed at the 
joint. When this is done on both sides, the gut should be 
drawn out and severed at a short distance from the vent. 
The tail should also be disjointed at the root. This being 
done, the skin can be loosened around the body until the 
fore-legs are reached, when they also should be dissevered. 
The skinning now proceeds along the neck until the skul) 
is reached. Here considerable care is necessary to remove 
the skin without damage to the ears, eyelids and lips. The 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 321 

skin is left attached to the -skull; when the operation has 
proceeded far enough to expose the muscles of the jaws, 
the skin must be separated from the body at the first joint 
of the neck. The tongue, eyes and muscles, remaining 
attached to the head, are now to be carefully removed, and 
the brain taken out from an opening in the back of the 
sk-ill, cut through for that purpose. To make this open- 
ing, amateurs can use a small gimlet or bit with ver}' small 
animals, and a large, one as circumstances may demand. 
The legs are now to be skinned out quite down to the 
claws, which completes the operation of skinning. During 
the entire process, all fluids escaping must be immediately 
soaked up with cotton. As soon as the skin is removed, 
it should be thoroughly rubbed with arsenical soap, not 
omitting the inside of the skull and mouth cavities. 

Insect Specimens — To preserve" insects; quarter of an 
ounce of corrosive sublimate in one ounce of water, and 
add three ounces of spirits of wine. Steep insects in this, 
then dry; and especially if spider specimens be treated this 
way, they will be found to be pliable. 

Bird Lime — To make it, boil down linseed oil of the best 
quality until it becomes thick and glutino\is. It should be 
boiled in an earthen pot in the open air, for about- two 
or three hours. It is very essential that an earthen vessel 
should be used, as an iron one heats and the oil takes fire 
when boiling, and in such a case is useless as bird lime. 
A pot should be used with a tight fitting cover, to prevent 
the fire entering inside it. When prepared set the oil away 
in tin boxes with tight fitting covers, until it is to be used. 
Prepared lime made of pitch and oil and sold by some 
dealers is worthless. 

To Use It — Select some small dry sticks, about eight 
inches long and as thick as a straw; sharpen one end of 
them to a flat thin edge, so they can be stuck into a cut 
in stake: take a large stick or stake and drive it in the 
ground; make cuts in its sides suitable to receive the flat 
ends of the stick; take two of the small sticks and dip 
them in the lime; when covered, hold one in each hand 
and roll them between your thumbs and fingers with their 
sides touching, thus equally distributing the lime; insert 
their ends loosely into the notches in the ground, and place 



322 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

a "call bird" in a conspicuous place near the stake; when 
the birds alight in the sticks they pull loose from the main 
stick, and when flying away the wings come in contact with 
the lime, and are pinioned to the bird's sides. It does not 
hold them by the feet, as is generally supposed. 

To Tan Skins of Animals with the Fur On — 1. Put them 
into a pickle of alum and saltpetre until they become like 
leather; then dress the flesh sides, dry them slowl}^ and 
rub them with a little butter, and dry them by rubbing or 
treading them out in veneer sawdust. 

2. Take soft water, about ten gallons, a half bushel 
wheat bran, seven pounds of salt, two and a half pounds 
of sulphuric acid. Dissolve all together and put the skins 
in the solution and allow them to remain twelve hours; 
take them out and clean them well, and again immerse 
twelve hours, or longer, if necessar3^ The skins may then 
be taken out, well washed and dried. They can be beaten 
soft, is desired. 

3. Take equal parts salt, alum and Glauber salts, and 
half a pint saltpetre; pulverize and mix. Handle the skins 
and rub the mixture in well three or four times a day, the 
oftener the better. If there is not sufficient moisture in the 
skin to dissolve the salts put a little water into the latter. 
We are assured that no moth will ever attack furs, the 
pelt of which have been thus prepared. 

4. Mix the proportion of six pounds of alum, and three 
of salt. Dissolve both in about a gallon of warm water. 
Use when cool. Place skins not too tightly packed in a 
barrel or keg, and pour in mixture. Skins without injury 
to hair may be kept any length of time in this way, and 
all in good order at any time to stuff. 

5. Take two parts of saltpetre and one of alum, pulver- 
ize them well together; spread the skin carefully, fur side 
down, before it has dried; apply the mixtures evenly, being 
careful to touch every part in sufficient quantity to thor- 
oughly wet the surface after it dissolves; double the flesh 
side and roll it up closely; put it in a cool place, out of 
the way of the frost, and let it remain three or four days 
or more according to thickness; then unroll, and when it 
gets nearly dry, with a dull knife remove the fat that may 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 323 

adhere in spots, and a little rubbing makes it pliable and 
fit for use. 

6. Glauber salts, two pounds; rock salt, one pound, alum, 
two pounds; all to be dissolved in boiling water; leave skins 
in about ten days, take them out occasionally for a little 
while during that time; cut the edge of the skin to see if the 
tanning has gone through; then take them in the hand and 
beat them over a round stick or 'block until they are soft. 
They ar.e to be beaten with the hair side in. 

Indian Tanned Skins — The skin is stretched either on the 
ground or on poles, and all fat or flesh removed. When 
well dried it is washed in soap and water to cleanse the fur; 
the brains of any anim?il are then taken and mashed into a 
paste with hot water, and this paste is thoroughly rubbed 
into the flesh side, and the skin hung out to dry. When 
dry it is scraped, and exposed to the dew for one night, and 
next morning rubbed and pulled until soft. . 

Buckskins are made by rubbing off the hair with a 
horse-rib, while the skin is fresh, or after soaking in a weak 
lye; then dressing with brains, and staining a reddish color 
in a decoction of Wasatchie bark. Alum and salt are very 
good, but alum is rather scarce in the chapparal, as also are 
doors and boards. Some stretch skins on the ground. 

Care should be taken, by the way, not to use too much 
salt, as it causes the skin afterward to absorb moisture too 
readily. Smoking a skin is done by first dressing with brains, 
sewing it up into a funnel-shape, and suspending over a 
slow fire of buffalo chips, or dry prickly pear, built in a 
hole in the ground. The tips of the funnel being pinned 
down close around the hole; a clear, calm day, is selected, 
and the smoking - requires about two hours. It gives a 
velvet-like finish, and the skin never shrinks or gets stiff 
from wetting, but washes like cloth. 

To Keep Mcths from Skins — Dissolve a small piece of 
corrosive sublimate in alcohol, and brush on; or the 'best 
arsenic dissolved in the same manner will answer. 

To Preserve Fish for Specimens — Specimens, which, after 
being taken, should be wrapped in a damp cloth or moss 
until opportunity offered for placing them in weak spirits 
of whiskey or alcohol, when they should be allowed to soak 



324 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



until the spirit has thoroughly permeated the fish, which 
requires several days, more or less, the length of time re- 
quired 'being governed considerably by the weather. They 
should then be carefully spread on a platter and covered 
with alcohol until the fish is hardened, when it can be 
placed in the jar. 

To Preserve Fish Skins — Skin your fish carefully, but do 
not be particular as to leaving a little meat on. Spread the 
skins in layers and sprinkle with salt and alum; or make a 
pickle in a small keg of a weak solution of carbolic acid; 
any remaining flesh can be scraped off afterwards, and the 
fish set up 'by a taxidermist. JMany of the most delicate 
fishes with large scales will not stand the above treatment, 
to say nothing of mounting them afterward. 




Nature Most Beautiful. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 325 

TAKING OFF THE HIDES 

Small animals should be cased, or opened, by peeling the 
skin off from the hind quarters. Make a cut from front to 
hind legs and strip it off like skinning a rabbit. Cut off 
around the legs and remove the skin clean from the bones, 
with the knife keeping all fat and flesh on the body proper. 
If slippery use a dry rag around the bony parts, or a split 
stick. Tie a loop cord or wire to fasten the hind legs upon 
so as to hold secure, fastening it to the hut or a tree. Skin 
clear back to nose, cutting loose eyes and ear cartilage. To 
skin them open cut from breast to the lower jaw — be careful 
to cut in a straight line — follow with the knife on the inside 
of fore and hind legs clear to the toes and claws, which 
should be left on all fur pelts, peeling the hide off, using the 
knife to keep it free from fat or flesh as much as possible. 
Do not draw the skin too far away from the body — just 
enough to handle the knife freely — to bend it clear back one 
is apt to cut the skin. Let the knife blade point toward- the 
carcass or bod}^ not toward the skin, but away from it, so as 
to avoid cutting the skin or gashing it. The cleaner the 
skin is taken off the better it is, and the least fleshing will 
have to be done. With care and practice one will soon learn 
the knack. I have often skinned as high as two or three 
hundred animals in a day and on sealing voyages (South 
Shetland seal) have averaged that many for days. On one 
vo3'^age we captured as high as 5,000 seals in one season. 
The price we received for them in the London market averag- 
ing $20 each. In these cases no fleshing was necessary so 
cleanly were they removed before salting and packing. All 
these were cased open. "BUZZACOTT.'" 

Head Sealer. 
Record — Voyage of the dealing Schooners fleet of Wil- 
liams & Haven, Xew London, Conn. 



326 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




C0PrRiGHTED!908i 



34 SILVER FOXES VALUED AT 1 2 1, 000^-2 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 327 

STRETCHING AND CURING SMALL SKINS. 

The market value of a skin is greatly affected by the care 
taken in removing it from the animal, and in drying it. The 
common way is to tack the skin to the barn door and let 
it remain stretched until quite dry. The trapper in the 
woods having no such convenience as the barn door at 
hand, is obliged to resort to other methods. One plan is 
to dry the skin on a hoop. A skin to be dried in chis man- 
ner must not be ripped down the belly, but it is cut from 
the lower jaw of the animal to just below the forelegs; the 
lips, eyes, and ears being cut around, the skin is stripped 
off, leaving the fur side inward. The hoop consists of a 
branch of hickory or other elastic wood, an inch through 
at the butt. This is bent and pushed into the skin, which 
is drawn tight, and fastened in place by notches in the bow, 
drawing the skin of the lip into these notches. A much 
neater way, and one generally preferred, is to use stretchers 
of thin wood. As these have to be carried by the trapper, 
they are made of light wood and very thin. They are three- 
sixteenths of an inch thick, twenty inches long, six inches 
wide at the larger end, and slightly tapering. The\' are 
rounded to a blunt point at the lower end, and the edges 
chamfered. The skin is drawn over the board, and secured 
with tacks. Skins stretched by either of these methods 
should not be dried in the sun nor by a fire, but in a cool 
place where they will be sheltered from the rain. Xo salt 
or other preservative is used upon skins intended for the 
market. 



HINTS AND POINTERS TO THE TRAPPER 
Lookout for Damaged Skins 

Many trappers ship pelts unclean, over or under stretched, 
tainted, dirty, not cleaned of excess flesh and fat, tail bones, 
etc., badly skinned, slashed or cut, dried out of shape, 
trapped out of season, taken off the wrong wa^' and the 
like, which decreases them largely in value and in many 



328 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

cases rendering them valueless, then expecting full prices and 
calling dealers robbers because they don't get them. Don't 
kill before time. Don't dry in the sun or heat. Don't over- 
stretch or get out of the natural shape. All these items 
decrease the value of your shipments. Small animals, such 
as mink, marten, skunk, civet, raccoon, opossum, muskrat, 
and the like, should be cased, while those of the larger should 
be skinned open, such as the wolf, beaver, lynx, cougar, wol- 
verine, etc., etc. 



DRESSING AND TANNING SKINS AND FURS 

There are various ways of dressing skins, but some are 
easier and better than others. Several of the recipes given 
below have been advertised and hawked about the country 
at five dollars each. 

We will commence with what is called oil-dressing, and, 
to begin at the beginning, the directions would be, "first 
catch your deer." As soon as the hide is taken ofi from 
the deer's back it should be grained; to do this, provide 
3^ourself with a beam eight inches through, and six feet 
long; put two legs in one end, and let the other rest on 
the ground, so that it will stand at a steep slant. The 
beam must be of hard vv^ood, shaved smooth, without a 
ridge in it. 

Provide yourself with a knife. . One made for the pur- 
pose is best, but you may make a very good one by taking 
an old shaving knife and grinding it square across the 
edge, until it has a face about a sixteenth of an inch across. 
Then whet the corners smooth, so that they will not cut 
the skin. A piece of a scythe, with a handle at each end, 
makes a good fleshing knife. 

Now sit down, with the highest end of the beam 
against your belly, and lay on the skin, hair side down, 
and proceed to take off all the flesh and fat, and every 
unequal substance before you turn the hair side up. Then 
commence to grain, with the neck of the skin next to you, 
and shove against the hair, having a firm hold of the knife, 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 329 

and shoving with some strength, when off will go a streak 
of the grain, and so proceed until it is all off. This is the 
way to grain a green hide just taken from the animal. 

To grain a dry hide, 'first put it in a tub or barrel of 
warm water, and let it lie for twenty-four hours, and then 
add to each half barrel of water a pint of good slaked 
lime, and let it stand twenty-four hours more; then proceed 
as wnth a fresh skin. 

When the work is properly done, the skin will be as clear 
as glass, WMth no streak of grain or other uneven substance 
left; unless it is in this condition, it will not dress well. 

Now, in order to dress one buck skin, take eight quarts 
of fresh rain water and warm it, and put in one pint of 
soft soap. "Put in the skin while the liquid is warm, and 
work it with the hands, or punch it with a stick, until the 
soapsuds is quite worked into it, say twenty-four hours'.. 
Then take it out and pass it between two sticks, or pass- 
it through a good wringing machine. Then pull it until 
it is dry, in the hot sun, or 'before a hot fire. Next stretch 
it out to its full size, and spread on some soft grease, or 
any animal oil, until it is well oiled through. Then heat 
up the suds again, and apply half as much more soap, and' 
put in the skin again and work it well for a time, and lei' 
it lie twenty-four hours longer. Then take it out and pull 
it dry, as before. For all doe skins, and for yearling bucks, 
this will be enough, but old buck skins must go in once 
more, and when pulled dry again they will be as soft as 
velvet. 

The best grease to use is butter, which is the greatest 
softener in the world, and a less quantity will answer than 
of any other grease. 

When the skin is dressed and pulled dry, you may apply 
0(;lire to make it 3'ellow, or hang it up in a smoke-house 
and smoke it with a smudge of rotten water elm, which 
will make it a beautiful reddish yellow. 

Another process is to let the skin lie in clear water until 
the hair will slip off, and then grain it on the beam. This 
is a very good way. I have practiced it, and found the 
leather as tough as that of the green hide. 

Take the brains out of the head of a deer, or of a hog, 
tie them up in a cloth, and put them into a gallon of 



330 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

water, and boil for an hour; then squeeze the cloth so as 
to press through as much as you can; let it stand until 
you can barely hold your hand in it without scalding; then 
put in the grained skin, working it continually for two or 
three minutes; then take it out, wring it, and pull it dry. 
If not soft enough, heat up and put in again; then work it 
and dry it as before. No doubt it will be done by this time, 
but if it is still, a little hard, apply a small amount of but- 
ter, and work it in thoroughly, and then smoke, as before 
directed. This is the Indian dressing. There is no doubt 
that the first recipe — the oil dressing — is the best of all. 

Tanning. — The first thing to be done preparatory to tan- 
ning a hide or skin is to soak it, as no hide can be tanned 
unless it has been soaked and properly broken on a fleshing' 
beam. Soak in soft water, and, unless the hides have been 
salted, add a little salt to the water. Green hides* should 
remain in until thoroughly well soaked, say from ten to 
twelve hours, according to thickness; dry hides from two 
to six days. All hard or unbroken spots must be softened 
after soaking. To remove the hair or wool, immerse the 
hide or skin in a liquor composed of ten gallons of cold, 
soft water, eight quarts- of slaked lime, and eight quarts of 
hard wood ashes. Let it soak from two to six days, or until 
the hair or wool slips ofi easily. 

If it is desired to keep the wool or hair clean, instead 
of using the liquor take equal parts of slaked lime and 
hard wood ashes, and make into a thin paste, with water. 
Spread this on the flesh side, and then roll up the skin, 
flesh side in, and place it in a tub or barrel, barely cover- 
ing it with water. Let it soak from one to ten days, or 
until the hair or wool can be easily removed; then take 
the hides from the soak, and scrape off the hair and flesh 
with a fleshing knife. 

The hides, by being soaked in the lime liquor, are raised 
too much to be submitted to the tanning liquor. They 
must first be reduced to their original thickness, by being 
entirely freed from the lime. This is done by what is 
termed "bating." 

A bate is made of ten gallons of cold, soft water, one- 
half bushel of wheat bran, and a quarter of a pound of 
sulphuric acid. It should be prepared a day or two before 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 331 

using, in order that the bran may ferment. By using luke- 
warm instead of cold water, the process will be hastened. 
Put the hide into this bate, and let it remain until it is 
reduced to its natural thickness and is as soft as a green 
hide. Then remove it and rinse it in soft water, and work 
it out, at least once, over the fleshing beam. For a thick 
hide, a second rinsing and working will be necessary. 

Tanning Liquor. — For light hides, add one-half bushel 
of wheat bran to ten gallons of soft, warm water, stirring 
it in. Xet it stand in a warm room until it ferments, then 
add seven pounds of salt, and stir it until it dissolves, then 
add slowly, and stir in, two and a half pounds of sulphuric 
acid. Into this liquor put the hide, and handle it until it 
is perfectly saturated. 

This tan will impart no color to the leather, but will act 
as a mordant for setting a variety of bark or vegetable 
colors. This tan liquor, when properly prepared, has a 
sour, pungent taste, sharper than the keenest vinegar, but 
is not so strong as to injure the tongue or hands. This is 
the test for the strength of the liquor. If it becomes much 
reduced below this test, while the hides are in it, it must 
be strengthened. To do this, remove the hides; then skim 
off the bran, which is now worthless, and add to the old 
liquor fermented bran, salt and acid, as before. Light hides 
should remain in the tan liquor from four to twelve hours. 
Then rinse them in soft water, two or three times, pushing 
out all the tan from the fur or hair. All tanned skins 
should be thoroughly rinsed before applying the liquid 
stuffing, which is composed in the following manner: 

Take one-third leached lye and two-thirds tanner's or 
neat's foot oil, beat together, and apply with a stifi brush. 
Give calf skins two coats, furs one light coat, and deer 
skins two coats, one on each side. Hang them in the 
shade to dry. When half dry, take them on the beam 
over some yielding substance, and by pushing the edge of 
the flesh knife stoutly over the leather in all directions, it 
will become soft and pliable. 

In treating a calf skin, when the liquid is nearly dried 
in, apply a thorough coat of water-proof stuffing. 

All hides and skins when drying are like full cloth. 
When wet they contract or^ pull up, and have to be 






COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




COMPLETE TRAPPE'RS GUIDE 333 

stretched. To do this, take the hide after the liquid stuffing 
is dried in, dampen it, and place it on the fleshing beam 
over some yielding substance like a sheep skin. Then use 
the flesh knife (a circular knife, like the cook's chopping 
knife). By pushing the edge stoutly in all directions over 
the leather, it will become stretched, and be made fit for 
the various uses to which it is to be put. 

The following is a simple way to dress deer skins. First 
have tham grained, as already directed. Then, into a two- 
gallon stone pot, put two quarts of rain water, one ounce 
sulphuric acid and one gill of salt. 

Put in the hide, work it well for two or three minutes, 
wring it out, pull it dry, and smoke it. 



, Coloring Hides 

Black. — Use logwood clear; dry, and then use copperas 
water to make it black. Don't use too much copperas. 

Drab. — Pulvei\ize blue clay with soft soap, add blue 
vitriol, or extract of logwood, to shade the color as you 
wish. 

Dark Brown. — Seven pounds of oak bark, six pounds of 
young fustic, one pound of logwood. Strike in with strong 
alum water. 

To Buff Buckskin. — Take five parts of dry whiting and 
two parts of yellow ochre, and mix them with water to 
a stiff paste. Mould into balls, and lay by to dr3^ When 
the dressed skin is dry rub the ball over the surface, and 
scour the powder in, and nap the leather by going over 
it w^ith sand paper, folded over a small piece of half- 
round wood; or rub the leather down with pumice stone. 

Buff or Dark Brown. — Take equal parts of pulverized, 
unslaked lime, and litharge, and mix to a thin paste with 
water; apply it with a brush. One or two coats will give 
a light buff or buckskin color, which every additional coat 
will deepen. By adding ammonia and nitrate of silver, a 
beautiful black color is produced. This color may be so 
applied as to give a leopard skin appearance, and in the 



334 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




I! 



A Prize Exhibit of Fine Furs. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 335 

hands of an ingenious person, a beautiful effect can be 
produced. 

Another One ounce of crj^stalized nitrate of silver, 

eight ounces carbonate ammonia, one and a half pints of 
rain water. Cork tight. Apply to the surface of the fur 
with a brush. One application will make a brown, and by 
repeating it often enough the color may be deepened to 
a black. 



To Dress Fox Skins 

Commence to skin the fox by ripping down the back 
of each hind leg until the slits meet at the crotch. Don't 
rip up the belly, but skin the body whole. Skin the tail 
by putting a split stick over the bone of the tail, between 
the hide and the body. Hold it tight, so that it will scrape 
the bone of the tail, and then pull this out of the hide. 
Draw the hide over a board, made ready \)f a width from 
end to end, and when it is dry slip it ofif and turn it fur 
side out; then it is ready to sell. 



Beaver Skins 

Rip the skin as you would that of a sheep. Stretch it 
to its full size in all directions, and nail it on a board to 
dry. It may be dressed by a mixture of equal parts of 
rock salt and alum dissolved in water, with coarse flour 
stirred in to make it about as thick as cream. Spread this 
on about half an inch thick, and when dry scrape it of¥. 
If this is not enough, put it on a second time. 

To make it into furs, pluck out the long hairs. 



Otter Skin 

Skin him nearly the same as the fox, only that the tail 
must be ripped up, and when the hide is turned down to 
the four legs, they must be skinned out carefully. Slip 
the skin over a board that will not fit it so tightlv as to 



336 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




COMPLETE TRAPPE'RS GUIDE 337 

injure the fur. Stretch out the tail, and hold it in place 
by tacking it with small nails around the edges. If it is a 
real black fellow, that shines like a crow, probably you 
will get eight or ten dollars for him. It may be dressed 
in the same manner as a beaver skin. 



Mink Skins 

The same directions in all respects as for the foregoing 
save that after the paste gets dry it should be scraped off 
with the bowl of a spoon, taking care to keep the skin 
stretched tightly, so that the astringent matter will not 
shrink it too much. 

The skin may be dressed as soft as velvet, and the alum 
and salt will set the hair securely. 

During the warm, summer months the mink is nearly 
stripped of his fur, the skin is thin, and the butts of the 
hair stick nearly through, making the pelt black. 

The skin is in its prime from mid-winter until about the 
middle of May. 



Muskrat^Skins 

These skins are very tender, and the flesh is very tough, 
so that the}^ will not bear fleshing until they have lain for 
at least six hours in the tan liquor described above for 
light deer skins. After this it should be fleshed over the 
flesh side of a sheep skin, with the circular fleshing knife. 
The fur may be enlivened by being rubbed with a mixture 
of equal parts of scorched bran and clean white sand. 



Raccoon Skins 

These should be nailed on a board to dry, and smeared 
with a paste made of equal parts of alum and salt dis- 
solved in a weak solution of sulphuric acid, say 2 ounces of 
alum, 2 ounces of salt, 1 drachm, of sulphuric acid, 1 pint 



338 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

of water, and a little wheat bran. When nearly dry, scrape 
it off with a spoon, and work the skin very soft. 

This may be done by rolling up the skin, instead of nail- 
ing it on a board; or it may be put in the tan liquor recom- 
mended for light deer hides. 



Bear Skins 

Tan in the same manner in all respects as the Raccoon 
skins. 



MORE ABOUT PREPARING PELTS 

Many industrious trappers lose much hard-earned money 
in carelessly prepared peltries. All pelts should be removed 
from animals when first captured, except in severe weather 
in the north, where animals may be kept frozen for weeks 
without injuring the fur. Skins should be well stretched 
and cleaned of all loose flesh when green; they should not 
be scraped too severely, however, as in so doing the fibre 
is often injured. They must be dried away from the camp 
fire, in the shade or open air. Pelts dried under a hot sun 
soon become very hard and dry, and are liable to tear, 
particularly those from thin-skinned animals, such as the 
fox, lynx, wild-cat, muskrat, etc. Fatty skins, like those 
of the bear, raccoon, seal and skunk, can be exposed to the 
sun without injury; the heat draws the fat to the surface, 
and it is then easily removed. Alum, salt and saltpetre are 
often applied to green pelts by amateurs, but it causes 
shrinkage, and also prevents quick, soft soaking and easy 
currying when first handled by the tanner. 

Furred animals are trapped in cold weather, and no 
preservatives are necessary in drying the skins. The blood 
should never be washed from the flesh side of a pelt, as 
water injures the skin and causes decomposition. The skins 
of most animals should be drawn over stretchers, with flesh 
side out, and edges tacked in position. Of the class treated 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 33,9 

thus, mention might be made of the otter, fox, fisher, mar- 
ten, mink and muskrat. The skin of the muskrat should 
be stretched over a shingle, with sides slanted on thin end, 
and corners rounded. 

The animals mentioned should be skinned as follows: 
Cut the skin through around the ankles; then place a small, 
sharp knife in the incisions, and open the skins down the 
inside of the hind legs to the cauda. This amount of cut- 
ting will enable the skin to be pulled over the head of the 
animal without tearing, and to come off in bag-like shape. 
The tails are drawn out by placing the fleshy part between 
two sticks, with a slight notch in each; they will thus be 
prevented from slipping sideways, and will draw more read- 
ily. The tails of most animals need starting at the base 
with a knife. Tails of the otter and skunk should be split 
down the under side, and tacked out flat on the stretcher. 
The feet are generally left on fox skins, and the fur side 
turned out when they are partially dry. The stretcher for 
mink and other large skins should be in three pieces, to 
facilitate removal, as the skins contract and stick tightly. 

The skins of several furred animals are removed differ- 
ently from those described. Those of the bear, panther, wolf, 
wolverene, lynx, badger, beaver and skunk are skinned flatly, 
'by cutting down the middle of the belly and the inside of 
the legs. Such skins are stretched and nailed on any flat 
surface. Very large skins, such as the moose, caribou, elk 
and deer, are stretched on pegs driven through their sides 
in the ground. When pelts are stretched and dried, they 
should be made in bundles, placed in the top of the trap- 
per's cabin, and allowed to remain until spring. Early in 
the season a mixture of salt, saltpetre and alum is used for 
the lararest skins. 



340 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




Wolves on the Trail of Game. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



341 



HUNTING AND TRAPPING THE WOLF 

There are several varieties of wolves in the United 
States. The prairie wolf, of two or three dififerent kinds, 
is Init small, and is easily trapped or shot. He is not so 
destructive among sheep as the large gray wolf of the 
timbered country, and it is about these that I shall have 
the most to say. They are confined to no particular loca- 




Wolf. 

tion, but travel about from one place to another. Still 
they have their- particular routes, as from one swamp to 
another, and where their course brings them near a settle- 
ment, they sally forth at night to steal a sheep, if these are 
kept out and are not penned. Killing sheep is a business 
they understand, and they will cut the throat of one about 
as slick as a knife can do it. They are greedy creatures, 
and always want to kill the whole flock. I have known 
as many as thirty to be killed in a single night by one 
wolf — nothing done but to cut their throats. When the 
she-wolf can find an old bear's den, she will take posses- 
sion of it to have her puppies, usually about the last of 
April or the first of ]\Iay. These follow her all the sum- 
mer and fall, when they start oflf on their own hook to see 
what they can catch to eat. When deer are plenty, it 
seems as though they could catch one whenever they 
please. I have often seen how they operated, one or more 
running directly on the track, and one on each side. After 



342 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

a short run, they would close in, and the venison was 
sure to be taken. There seemed to be no possibility of 
escape. In fact, they are great hunters; some will hide 
in a run-way, while the others drive the deer along. I 
have often heard the gang, belonging to an old slut with 
an old dog in company, set up their how-de-low, from the 
blow of a conch shell to the barking of a puppy dog, screech 
and scream, all at once — utter confusion. 

It is no sign whatever that they have caught anything 
because they make such a noise, although when one wolf 
catches game or finds a deer or any such thing, he goes 
off a short distance and sets up a howl that makes the 
welkin ring; and when joined by his comrades, they go 
together and feast on their booty. While the wolf is 
calling the others together, should you remove the bait or 
body, when the pack return with the one that caught it, 
and they find nothing there, the unfortunate beast pays 
with his life the penalty of his false alarm. Wolves often 
catch deer on ice, and while they have gone to call the 
. pack, men have often removed the body, and then from a 
safe distance watched the tragedy I have spoken of. 

To my mind the wolf is the shyest creature I ever tried 
to get a shot at, and to catch one in a trap you must use 
the same caution that I recommended in trapping for foxes. 
Never touch the trap with your bare hands, unless you are 
going to set it under water. 

The best way to trap 'wolves is to take the carcass of a 
dead horse or other animal and draws it to a spring-hole, 
and then set your trap exactly as recommended for bears. 

Wolves may be poisoned by the wholesale. Where 
there are wolves in the country, they have, as I said be- 
fore, regular routes over which they travel several times 
during the winter. By close observation you can learn 
about when they will be along — within a week or so, at 
any rate. Now hunt up an old horse that is about to 'die, 
lead him to the spot that you have selected, kill him, and 
skin him. Take pieces of lard or suet about the size of a 
hazel nut, and slices of tough flesh from the horse large 
enough to thoroughly enclose the lard. Spread the lard 
a little on one side of the flesh, and sprinkle upon it as 
much strychnine crystal as can be taken up on the point of 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 343 

a knife blade. Mix this with the lard; then roll up the 
meat neatly and tie it slightl}-, so that the strychnine can- 
not be exposed on the surface, and lay it down on the car- 
cass of the 'horse. Put about a dozen of these baits ex- 
actly where you can find them at any time. When you 
come again to examine the place, as many pieces as are 
gone, just as many dead wolves you may expect to find 
within two or three rods of the spot. I have known a 
whole ^ang to be killed in this way in one night. ■ 

Foxes may be killed in a similar manner, only very much 
less strychnine is necessary. When the wolf, the fox, or 
any other animal is killed with strychnine the hide should 
be immediately tarred with alum and salt, as described in 
the chapter on dressing skins. If this is dela3^ed the hair 
and fur will come out and spoil the looks of the skin. If 
wolves kill a calf, or any other creature, take the body 
to some place out of the reach of domestic animals and 
put poison about it as above directed, and you will be 
sure to make them keel over. 

You can so scent your boot soles with a mixture made 
of the oil of rhodium, oil of fenugreek, oil of cummin, and 
flour of sweet fennel, as to make the wolf follow your 
track or trail. -By going fari into the wilderness and 
traveling among the swamps, you can fetch the wolves 
into your neighborhood, but they are not pleasant neighbors 
to have and raise cain by hanging about a line of traps and 
scaring or driving everything away. 



Poisoning Wolves 

Many wolves are killed by poisoning, and more would be 
so killed if the methods followed were less crude. Strych- 
nine is generally used with nothing to disguise its intense 
bitterness, the powder being either inserted in bits of meat 
or fat or merely spread on a fresh carcass. In most cases 
the wolf gets a taste of the bitter drug and rejects it, 
and if the dose is swallowed it may be too small to be fatal 
or so large as to act as an emetic. An old and experienced 



344 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

woU will rarely touch bait poisoned in the ordinary way, 
but sometimes a whole family of young may be killed at a 
carcass. Usually when wolves are poisoned they go so far 
before they die that if found at all it is not until their skins 
are spoiled. To encourage poisoning, it must be possible 
to secure the skins in good condition, or, at least, to find 
the animals after they are killed, so that the ranchman may 
have the satisfaction of knowing that he has accomplished 
something toward the protection of his stock. 

In the use of poison it is of first importance to determine 
the amount that will kill with certainty in the shortest possible 
time. The smallest dose of strychnine that will kill a 25- 
pound dog is approximately one-fourth of a grain. Quad- 
ruple this for a 100-pound wolf and we have 2 grains. One 
grain killed a 21-pound dog in seventy-five minutes, while 
3 grains killed a 40-pound dog in twenty-seven minutes, 
without acting as an emetic. For a wolf, therefore, 4 grains 
of pure sulphate of strychnine would seem to be a proper 
dose. 

Tests on 40-pound dogs with 1 and 2 grains of cyanide 
of potassium in capsules caused the dogs to vomit in about 
fourteen minutes, after which they fully recovered. Other 
more deadly poisons can not be safely handled, and 
strychnine is the only practicable poison that can be recom- 
mended. 



Directions for Use of Strychnine 

For wolves place 4 grains of pulverized sulphate of 
strychnine in a 3-grain gelatin capsule, cap securely, and 
wipe off every trace of the bitter drug. The capsules should 
be inserted in a piece of beef suet the size of a walnut, and 
the cavity securely closed to keep out moisture. The juice 
of fresh meat will dissolve the gelatin capsules, hence only 
fat should be used. The necessary number of these poi- 
soned baits may be prepared and carried in a tin can or 
pail, but they should not be touched with naked hands. 
Old gloves or forceps should be used to handle them. The 
baits may be dropped from horseback along a scented 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 345 

drag line made by dragging an old bone or piece of hide, 
or may be placed on, around, or partly under any carcass 
on which the wolves are feeding, or along trails followed 
by the wolves. Partial concealment of the bait usually 
lessens the wolf's suspicion, while some kind of scent near 
by or along the trail insures its attention. 

The gelatin capsule will dissolve in about a minute in 
the juices of the mouth or stomach. When the strychnine 
is taken on an empty stomach it will sometimes kill in a 
very feV minutes, but when taken on a full stomach the 
wolf may have time to travel some distance before dying. 
In. experiments on dogs the animal usually becomes help- 
less in one or two minutes after the first symptoms of 
poison, and dies five or six minutes later. 



Trapping 

Most of the wolves trapped are less than a year old, 
generally spring pups caught the following fall or winter, 
After a wolf has reached his third year and run the gaunt- 
let of traps, poisons, guns and dogs, its chances of dying 
of old age are excellent. Around the dens I found the old 
•wolves especialK-- wary, and so suspicious of both traps 
and poison that I was utterly baffled in attempts to catch 
or poison them. Excess of scents and baits made them 
only the more suspicious. This may not always be the 
case, however, for old wolves are sometimes caught . when 
the pups are still with them, though large enough to leave 
the den: and, moreover, wolves vary much in habits, dis- 
position, and intelligence, so that, though one refuses to 
be trapped, another may prove an easy victim. 



Traps 



For wolves nothing smaller than a Xo. 4 double-spring 
trap with heavy welded or special wolf chain should be 
used. If the trap is to be staked or fastened to a stationary 
object, the chain should have a swivel at each end; if to a 
drag, one swivel next the trap is enough. A wolf will bite 



346 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

and break an ordinary flat steel chain, and will break any 
ordinary chain that is allowed to twist or kink, if it is 
fastened to an immovable object. 

The best anchor for a wolf trap is a stone drag of 30 
or 40 pounds weight, to which the trap is securely wired. 
A long oval stone is the best, but a triangular or square 
stone can be secured wired. Ordinary galvanized fence 
wire or telegraph wire should be fastened around the ends 
of the stone and connected by a double loop of the wire, 
and the trap chain fastened to the middle of this loop. 
A jerk on the trap tends to draw the band together, and 
the spring of the connecting wire loop prevents a sudden 
jar that might break trap or chain. Twisted or barbed 
fence wire may be used if sufficiently strong, but it is not 
so easily handled. If no stones are available, or if the trap 
must be immovably fixed, it should be fastened with twisted 
iron stakes that can be driven below the surface of the 
ground. They should be at least 18 inches long and of good 
iron straps three-quarters of an inch wide and three-six- 
teenths of an inch thick. In light soil they should be still 
longer. If a picket pin sufficiently strong, provided with a 
swivel that will turn in all directions can be purchased at 
the local hardware store, it may not be necessary to have 
a pin made to order. 



Directions for Setting Traps 

The trap, chain and stone drag should be buried out of 
sight close to a runway, where the wolves follow a trail 
or road, cross a narrow pass, or visit a carcass, with the 
trap nearest the runway and flush with the surface of the 
ground; to keep the earth from clogging under the pan, 
the pan and jaws should be covered with an oval piece 
of paper, and over this should be sprinkled the fine earth 
until the surface is smooth and all traces of paper and 
trap are concealed. The surface of the ground and the 
surroundings should appear as nearly as possible undis- 
turbed. The dust may be made to look natural again by 
sprinkling water on it. Touching the ground or other ob- 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 347 

jects with the hands, spitting near the trap, or in any way 
leaving a trace of human odors near by should be avoided. 
Old, well-scented gloves should be worn while setting traps, 
and a little of the scent used for the traps should be rubbed 
on the shoe soles. A piece of old cowhide may be used on 
which to stand and to place the loose earth in burying 
drag and trap. 

A narrow trail may be made by dragging the stone or 
scraping, the foot from across the runway to the trap, 
A slender line of scent should be scattered along this drag 
mark or cross trail and more of the scent placed around 
the trap and 6 inches beyond it, so that the wolf will follow 
the line directly across the trap, stopping with his front 
feet upon it. With old, experienced, and suspicious wolves, 
however, it is better not to make the drag mark, but to 
set the trap with great care close to the side of the trail 
and put the scent just beyond it. If possible, place the 
trap between two tufts of grass or weeds, so that it can be 
readily approached from one side only. 



Use of Scents 

Success in trapping depends mainly on the use of scents 
that will attract the wolves to the neighborhood of a trap 
and keep them tramping and pawing until caught. Meat bait 
alone is of little use, for as a rule the wolves kill an ample 
supply for themselves. 

Beaver musk (castoreum) and the commercial perfumery 
sold as musk have proved effective in many cases by 
causing the wolf to turn aside to follow the scented cross 
line and so walk into the trap. Siberian musk (from the 
Siberian musk deer) is very attractive to wolves in the Zoo. 
Oil of anise and oil of rhodium seem to have no attraction 
for wild w^olves, and are scarcely noticed by those in con- 
finement. Asafetida is mildly attractive to wolves and 
coyotes at the Zoo, but used alone is very slightly, if at all, 
attractive to those on the range. 

Wolf urine taken from the bladder is used by some trap- 



348 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



pers, and is said to be very successful. It is bottled and 
kept until rancid and then sprinkled over the trap. The 
sexual organs of the female wolf immersed in the urine are 
said to add efficacy to this bait. The urine of the female 
in the rutting season is said to be especially attractive to 
males: it should be used in January or February. 

Fetid bait. — The bait that has proved most effective may 
be called, for lack of a better name, fetid bait, because of 
its offensive odor. It has been long in use in variously modi- 
fied forms by the most successful wolf trappers, and its 
preparation is usually guarded as a profound secret. It 
can not be credited to any one trapper, since no two prepare 
it in just the same way, but in most cases its fundamental 
odors are the same. It may be prepared as follows: . 

Place half a pound of raw beef or venison in a wide- 
mouthed bottle and let it stand in a warm place (but never 
in the sun) from two to six weeks or longer or until it is 
thoroughly decayed and the odor has become as offensive as 
possible. If the weather is not very warm this may require 
several months. When decomposition has reached the proper 




mmi^m^mJ 



FOR 

MINK 



n EXMISrT OF ANIMAl. BAITS ETC., 
eiVEO GRAND PRIZE, HICHEST AWARD 
WORLD'S FAIR, ST. LOUIS, I904 



'^^^--^ ••• >^ '•— FiF 




q^^f'gwgfV g w 



^)^ 



The Very Best Prepared Animal Bait-Scent. 

Stage, add a quart of sperm oil or some liquid animal oi!, 
Lard oil may be lised, but prairie dog oil is better. Add 
half an ounce of asafetida dissolved in alcohol and one ounce 
of tincture of Siberian musk, or, if this can not be procured, 
one ounce of pulverized beaver castor or one ounce of the 
common, musk sold for perfumery. Mix thoroughly and bot- 
tle secureh^ until used. Apply the scent to the grass, weeds, 



d 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 349 

or ground back of the trap with a stick or straw dipped 
in the scent, or by pouring from the bottle. A teaspoon- 
ful should be enough for baiting one trap, but in some 
cases more may be used to advantage. It should be placed 
beyond the trap to lead the wolf across — never on the trap 
— as the first impulse of the wolf after snifung it is to roll 
on it. This bait is very attractive also to cattle and horses, 
and unless great care is exercised the traps will be tramped 
over anci pawed out daily by the animals they are intended 
to protect. If possible, they should be set where cattle do 
not often pass or on patches of stony ground or just over 
a fence from cattle trails. 



Preservation of Wolf Skins 

Prime vv'olf skins in fall and winter, if properly handled, 
are worth from $4 to $6 for robes or rugs. For either pur- 
pose the skin should be complete, with feet, ears and nose 
perfect. The feet should be split through the so!es, all bones 
removed except the terminal segment of each toe, and the 
skin opened out to dry. The ears should be partly skinned, 
the thick base of cartilage removed, and salt forced in be- 
tween the skin and cartilage. The tail bone should be re- 
moved and the tail split along the lower side to the tip. 
The skin should be nailed up as nearly square as possible, 
with the legs wide and short, and left to dry in the shade. 
Many skins are spoiled by drying in the sun or by imperfect 
skinning. 

Museums and taxidermists will usually buy wolf skulls at 
50 cents each if the bones are uninjured and the brains 
scooped cut and enough of the flesh removed to prevent 
their becoming offensive. For museums thej^ should be 
labeled for sex, locality and date. 

Occasionally wolf bounties are paid on coyotes because 
county officials can not distinguish between a large coyote 
and a small wolf, and in certain localities the distinction is 
exceedingly difficult. In doubtful cases the Biological Sur- 
vev will be glad to identify the animals. 



350 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



Trapping Coyotes. — No. 3 traps anchored, set and baited 
as for wolves should be used for coyotes. The same scents 
are attractive to coyotes, but the fetid bait is especially 
recommended. 

Poisoning Coyotes. — Two-grain capsules of strychnine 
should be used for coyotes, in the same manner as for wolves. 

Locating Coyote Dens. — Coyote pups are usually born in 
April or May; otherwise the breeding habits are similar 
to those of the wolf. Bad-land washouts are favorite re- 
sorts, but the young are often found under rocks or in side- 
hill burrows. The dens are readily located on bare ground 
in bad-land regions by the numerous tracks of the parents. 
In most cases a spade is required in getting at the young. 




yp^. 




From left to right: C. W, Keller, J. A. Mehrten, Chester 
Wright — the Government Rangers Who Trapped the 

Animals. 



These Trappers Used Trail and Bait Scent. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



351 



HUNTING AND TRAPPING THE FOX 

Red, Grey, Cross, Swift, Black, Blue, White, Kit and 

Silver Foxes 

Preliminary to this subject, I desire to inform the reader 
of one thing that is uppermost in my mind, which is this: 
That while scientific men generally claim that there are 
some fifteen to twenty species of foxes, that my contention 
is that tliere is but one specie, but fifteen or twenty varieties. 




Red Fox. 

The truth of which will possibly be made plainer to you 
as we go along. 

Of all animals, perhaps, the fox is in a way the most 
crafty, shrewd and intelligent. They have learned by 
generations and ages of observations, experience and 
memory of past occurrences, and the ways of man espe- 
cially. They are increasing in value on account of the un- 
usual demand for their fine pelts, by the furrier and fashion, 
and in numbers, owing to the fact that they hug more 
closely to the smaller civilized and farming districts, while 
their natural enemies, wolves, wild cats, etc., have been 
more or less exterminated, or driven from the locations in 
which they abound and thrive. Again, to the fact that 
these same districts furnish them with much of the foods 
which provide for their increase, such as harvest and .field 
mice, squirrels, wood chucks, gophers, rats, rabbits, hares, 
grouse, wnld fowl of all kinds, small game birds, chickens, 
eggs, berries, and even harvest foods, beetles, insects, etc., 
all of which furnish them with an abundance of foods which 



352 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 





i^'y, -,' ^> 



The Master Trailer at Work 




Teaching Its Youn^. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 355 

they are very fond of in seasons. They learn quickly by 
observation of the ways of their now greatest enemies, 
man, dogs and traps, and how to avoid them. And in loca- 
tions where they are not hunted much, they have increased 
considerable by this knowledge, and their nocturnal wander- 
ings in unfrequented locations, during which time they in- 
variably find an abundance of good foods, peculiar to them, 
as is evinced by their fine and sleek condition in season. 
Yet before I enter into a discussion of the better methods 
of hunting and trapping them, I shall give the reader some 
information as to their habits and peculiarities. 

Indeed, these are the important things that must be 
learned, and the trapper or hunter who makes a study of 
such facts, and becomes an authority on them, instead of an. 
authority on catalogs, are the ones who will succeed and 
profit thereby. 

Indeed, without the use of such knowledge it would be 
a difficult matter to locate, decoy, lure, trap or hunt them. 

Wolves, coyotes, dogs and their allies belong to a family 
in which each of the series have four toes on the hind feet 
— claws, dull, short and untractile, not concealed or sharp 
like as in the cat, for instance; thus the tracks of these 
animals are much alike to each other — differing only in size, 
the fact which makes the trailing and identification of them 
an easy matter (see chapter and illustrations on tracks, 
trailing, etc.). 

They are unusually observing, suspicious and curious, 
so much so that the^^ -liave been known and will invariably 
follow in the trail and tracks of the trappers, and to observe 
and watch his actions in placing, setting traps, and the time 
of his making his rounds even, and in following even hunt- 
ers and dogs at a safe distance away for a similar purpose, 
securing thus, too, many wounded birds, rabbits, etc., which 
often escape, hide, are wounded or lost to the hunter on 
his trip; thus intelligently they secure many an easy good 
meal, and familiarize themselves much as to the habits* and 
ways of man besides. 

Of the American varieties which inha'bit this continent, 
perhaps the most numerous is the red fox, which averages 
about three feet in length, has grayish rump and flanks^ 



354 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



AN OLD AND SUCCESSFUL TRAPPER 
AND GUIDE. 




It's Experience that Counts at the Game. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 355 

hairs of the tail partly black near the end, while the tip of 
the tail is whitish, legs black, partly white inside, throat 
white, and ears tipped with black; in color they vary, espe- 
cially in the northern districts and ranges; some with a 
black band on the shoulders, and along the back is termed, 
by reason of it, the cross fox, while the silver fox is but a 
grayer kind, and the black fox a black variety of the same 
animal. 

This IS why I class them as "varieties" and not different 
"species," for I see no reason for such a term. In the 
human race we find twenty or thirty varieties; for instance, 
Chinaman, Indian, Hebrew, etc., etc., yet they are certainly 
not dififerent species of men. Now if we take the foxes of 
the Himilayan Mountains or Egypt, Thibet, India, England, 
northwestern Canada or America we find little or no dif- 
ference, be they red, gray, blue, black, silver or white foxes. 
All of them being of the same specie, and differing only 
according to habit, environment, locations and surround- 
ings. At times, true, these relative differences make one 
incline to believe that they are distant species, but I claim 
not. Indeed, records show that even the Arctic white fox 
has been found in temperate and torrid zones, and, for that 
matter, blue and black, silver and white foxes have also been 
found in districts remote from those attributed to them, 
and some times in one litter even, they have been noticed, 
several varieties. 

In the red fox, too, we find the back fur reddish brown, 
with a tinge of yellow, which graduates down to more or 
less white underneath. Back of its ears and the fore parts 
of its limbs are inclined to be dark; its bushy tail or brush, 
usually terminating in the white tip, serves as a signal 
by which they communicate to each other, in a way, and 
which has various other purposes, which will be taken up 
in turn. Its peculiar shaped head, sharpness of the muzzle, 
eliptical clear eyes, indicates its possession of shrewdness 
and cunning and betrays its sneaky character, while its pos- 
session of a sub-cordal gland secretes a fetid substance, the 
emission of which gives to them a peculiar, distinct scent 
or foxy odor, which varies in all varieties, particularly in 
those of the southern kind, and which is found to be lacking in 



356 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

the extreme northern, Asiatic or Arctic kinds; in fact, north- 
ern varieties of all animals, with few exceptions, are found 
to be lacking in odor when compared to the more southern 
kinds. 

In regions where foxes have not been trapped or hunted 
much they are not difficult to either approach or capture, 
but, on the other hand, are the most wary, sly and crafty 
of all animals, with the exception, perhaps, of the wolverine, 
which not only places them second in the rank of intelli- 
gent animals generally, but taxes the patience and skill of 
both trapper and hunter to the utmost. 

Peculiarly enough, it is observed, too, in districts where 
they are trapped much, that youg cub foxes are extremely 
suspicious and wary, and this fact I attribute largely to 
inherited memory of events, as sometimes they are harder 
to trap than even older foxes. 

As a rule they are solitary animals, except in certain 
seasons (rutting and breeding), nocturnal in habits, or 
"night-roamers"; either living in the open and concealed 
spots of the woods, or in burrows known as its earth, or 
holing up in the deserted holes of other animals, which it 
drives out for the purpose, such as rabbits, badgers, etc. 
Instances being known even where it has resided in an ex- 
cavated portion of even a badger's home, and the two of 
them have been found living together. It lives and frequents 
both woods and open country, and, as a general rule, hunts 
in districts remote from its habitation. In fact, this is one 
of the peculiarities of fox nature; you seldom find them 
hunting around their own neighborhood. 

As a rule, while foxes are somewhat cleanly in appear- 
ance, yet about their dens they are not, and will often leave 
bones and feathers around their earth, but as this is large- 
ly done for the purpose of enticing mice, etc., to that 
vicinity, so as to all the easier catch them, we can see rea- 
son and method back of even this trait. On the other hand, 
we observe, too, in districts where dogs are used to hunt 
them much, or trail them to their dens, that they are very 
often foxy enough to even remove these bones and feathers 
to quite a distance away, and to even preserve these favorite 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 357 

feeding spots away from their dens, thus peculiarly adapt- 
ing their habits according to circumstances. 

xA.gain we find many who seem to care for no hole, earth 
or burrow — simply laying in cover only; others seeking the 
protection of a den amid rocky boulders, stony places, cliffs, 
ledges of rocks, roots of trees, which afford greater pro- 
tection to their young. Either this, or choosing hollow 
logs, wind-falls, tree stumps, dense under-brush, or rocky 
protecte(f crevices, usually on the south side of the hill or 
warm elevation. Resting by day, and indulging in a sneaky 
chase by night, when it can see better, like a cat. 

Its rutting or breeding season is usually in February or 
March. The vixen or female producing her young usually 
in a litter of four to eight, after a period of gestation, in 
about 60 days. The dog foxes usually staying by the vixen 
during these times. They live about an average of ten or 
twelve years, although in captivity as long as fifteen or 
more, as their duration of life depending largely, .of course, 
upon conditions. When born, the cub foxes are blind, help- 
less and covered ears and body with a smooth brown, fluffy 
kind of fur. When about two months old they are able to 
go out of the burrow or nest, and at an age of about six 
months are able to shift for themselves. To suckle them 
easy, the vixen often pulls off the hair around her teats, and 
in the protection of its young the vixen fox is almost fear- 
less, sometimes even driving away their dog foxes and not 
allowing them to approach the litter. 

In coloring they most take on that of the locations they 
frequent, as well as the fox with whom they frequent, pair 
or breed; impulses more than choice of mate seeming to 
be considered: hence, in the same litter, one will often find 
cubs differently colored. In weight a full-grown fox will 
perhaps average 15 to 20 pounds, according to kind, time 
of year and conditions. At times, too, dog foxes will re- 
main with the vixen throughout the breeding season, in 
which case they often hunt jointly with each other, each 
taking a certain part in the game — the one to scare up the 
prey and drive it towards the other, who remains concealed, 
in the near distance, so as to surprise it, as it is driven 
towards them, and, as a rule, I have noticed that they act 



358 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

in concert with each other, as if the whole affair has been 
planned and premeditated with almost human intelligence. 
The dog fox doing the bulk of the work, and the vixen 
taking the part of an able assistant. 

When with cubs, dog foxes seem to have a sort of re- 
spect for the vixen, for although, at times, she will turn on 
them and bite them severely, it is seldom that they retaliate. 
Indeed, but few males have been known to hurt the vixen, 
and even dog hounds, in the 'breeding season, seem to recog- 
nize the slut fox, and in due honor to her condition seem 
inclined to unmolest her, and will often sneak off with their 
tail between their legs, as if achamed that the object of their 
chase turned out to be a maternal parent. 

When the cubs are produced, the old vixen displays an 
unusual mother-like care to her cubs, often going hungry 
that they may feed, and will sit for hours watching them 
play from a point of vantage from which she can observe 
what is going on a safe distance away — ever on the look- 
out from danger on all sides. At the least warning from 
the mother they will scamper to their cover and conceal 
themselves effectually, remaining thus hidden and safe while 
the parent herself will endeavor to lead away the enemy 
from the location in which her cubs are hidden, and seldom 
returning until the danger is past. If for some reason she 
would lose her life in the protection of her young, the dog 
fox would assume the responsibility in a way, of raising the 
litter, at least until they were fairly able to take care of 
themselves; if not, the first born of the family usually takes 
the lead, and I want to say right here that in all wild 
animal life the first born seems to .be the cuiest, wisest 
and most generally favored of the lot, and the others obey- 
ing him or her, and respecting him much like they would 
the parent herself. As stated before, at the least warning 
they will scamper to their cover or burrow, remain thus 
hidden and safe, while the vixen goes out on her hunts 
for her food, or theirs, never leaving or showing themselves 
until the vixen's return, or until they are starved out. And 
when about six months old are fairly able to take care of 
themselves in all respects, even to going alone, if neces- 
sary, and shifting for themselves. 

In their early lessons, their vixen fox accompanies them, 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 359 

showing them how to seek and search, capture and kill 
their prey, taking them even to the harvest fields in which 
they search for grain, fruit and berries, of which they are 
very fond, and in teaching them how to avoid the danger 
spots, as well as to seek the safer ones, and when they are 
about able to take care of themselves the vixen fox drives 
them away from her, to take up their abode and domain 
elsewhere. 

It is. at this time that these young foxes are caught 
by the early trappers or skimmers, and the capture of one 
of these should not lead the captor to believe that he has 
graduated in the art of fox trapping, not by any means. 

If taken when young, from their parents, foxes will be 
found hard to tame, unusually so; in fact, it is claimed that 
no wild animal is ever tan-^ed — only trained, I am in- 
clined, however, to doubt this in a way. While swift in 
their way, they are deliberate, yet are often winded easily 
in a long run, necessitating frequent rests, hence are often 
hunted and hounded by dogs and wolves, both, to their death 
in a short time, and it is on account of this persistency with 
which they are hunted, hounded or trapped that they become 
so extremely shy, and skillful in avoiding and eluding its 
enemies, by its craftiness, and in the knowledge of the weak- 
ness of its pursuers. By its persistent watchfulness and 
curiosity it learns the ways of its enemies, and employs 
artifice to combat main strength and stupidity of mankind 
whenever possible to do so. In other words, using a little 
"head work," and not letting its brains run to its feet, like 
many so-called hunters and trappers. 

It is their unusual scent and hearing that enables them 
to locate both their enemies and prey long before sight 
has observed them. The faint rustle of the mouse or bird in 
the dry leaves or grass being instantly detected by these 
remarkable acute senses, far more than sight, which, cat- 
like, by nocturnal habit, is much better at night, and if you 
but closely observe their eyes at any time, you will find 
the pupils thereof contract into but a mere slit by day. 
Indeed, trappers and hunters will do well to remember that 
all animals that are nocturnal or "night-roaming." see much 
better by night than by day. while birds and fowl with but 



360 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

few exceptions see by day mostly, reversing the order of 
things, as it were. As a rule, too, they are unusually quiet 
and noiseless, both in voice and movement; a short treble 
bark or yelp, peculiar to them, being seldom indulged in, 
mostly in the pairing season, or as a call, and then used 
by younger foxes more than old ones. It is by these cries 
that the trapper or hunter, if old at the business, attracts 
them at times to his vicinity — that of the vixen fox being 
especially telling in season. Again, by imitating closely 
the chirp of the bird, squirrel or wood-chuck, a quack of 
the duck, a call of the grouse, answering the same purpose 
exactly. Indeed, hunters and trappers should learn to imi- 
tate the simple cries of the woods, that they may serve his 
purpose in many ways in the time to come. It is surpris- 
ing how proficient one may become in these things, with 
a little practice, when alone. 

Don't forget what I have told you, that as a rule they 
can both smell and hear you before they can see you, and 
that while you depend on sight alone, they do not. 

Don't forget, too, that animals generally go about things 
in many respects, the opposite way to us. And if you bear 
this in mind, it will be a vast aid to you. I will try to 
make this plainer to you as to what I mean. Take, for 
instance, a young puppy dog; if he keeps still and observes 
you, it will come towards you, but if you move towards it, it 
will run away from you. While if you move away from it, 
it will run after you. This is animal nature, and they all 
show similar traits. They go largely by actions, and even 
judge from them. If you show fear or signs of it, they are 
brave, and if you show no signs of fear, they are afraid. 
If you keep still they are apt to get curious and move around 
to get closer to observe or scent you. If you move, they 
are ofT, and if you run, the}'- know you are afraid, and if it is 
a bear, for instance, the chances are "it's your last run"; 
that is, if you are having a scrap with him. For, as a rule, 
I don't care what the animal is, if you leave him be, and 
go your way, he will leave you be, and go his way, too. 

Another thing, animals generally dislike to run to lee- 
ward; they most generally prefer to run, nose to the wind, 
so as to scent unforeseen dangers, even if you are in the 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 361 

way of them, and many a story "of the son-of-a-gun come 
right towards me'' originated because the party did not know 
this was a wild animal trait. To make this plainer to you, 
I will say that a wild animal generally has one thing in 
his head at a time, and if he is going a certain way he don't 
seem to stop to think that you are in the wa}'. If, however, 
he does turn away from you, you can gamble that he has 
got a pretty good opinion of you, and can liken his act 
to an example which he would like to see you follow. 

There is just as much need of exercising your judgment 
in these things as in anything else of a similar nature even. 

We have read much of the intelligence of foxes, as a rule, 
but little as to "how he deserves the title." If any of my 
readers ever had the opportunity to watch them I don't think 
they had much the best of the fox — the chances are he, too,' 
played the same watchful game. The}'- have the habit of try- 
ing to be indifferent to such things. Nine times out of ten 
when he sees you he tries to let on he doesn't. It is part of 
his nature. I don't care whether you come across him sud- 
denly or not, as you may think. The chances are he has 
had "whiff" of your scent and is laying low for developments 
— of the two, however, you can gamble he is the least sur- 
prised, and in every way has you at a disadvantage. Mr. 
Fox will act as though it was an every-day occurrence, and 
he will treat it as if he were expecting it. • You can be sure, 
too, that he is the least put out about it. If you carry a 
gun he will slink off in a methodical sort of way, carefully 
putting something between you and him, so as to offset or 
hinder your aim. If you haven't, the chances are he knows 
it, and has awaited your coming so as to closer inspect one 
who he knows has tried so hard to get the best of him. 
If you see him at a distance like, he was perhaps perched 
upon a log, tree stump, rock or mound, taking in all you 
were doing, or sizing you up as you came along — before he 
jumped down and "hiked" away along or across your path, 
as the case may be. 

Indeed he has learned long since that sitting down in a 
quiet sort of way in a likely place is a good rule to follow, 
when he wants to see things, and if you are wise you will 
follow the plan, too. It is certainly much better than hoofing 
it about all day, with but a similar end in view. 



362 • COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 
Pelts Always in Demand. 







Wild Cat 



4- 






4ft:.-i^ 



Cross Fox 



Grey Fox 




«S 







Ringtail Cat Otter 

Animals That are Trapped 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 363 

When hounding foxes one may learn much of their crafty- 
nature and ways. I have seen them time and time again 
hide, lay down, rise and stretch, even chase their tails, while 
all the while the hounds were "tongueing'' and on their trail 
in the distance, starting off at a leisure trot, as they ap- 
proached, as if they really enjoyed the chase, and relying 
more upon their knowledge and trickery than by speed they 
will double on their tracks, circle round, take to the stony 
watered course of a running stream, run logs and trees, in 
an effort to break the scent; and if successful will even turn, 
watch or follow the hunters or dogs, as if enjoying their 
confusion and ignorance. In this he is aided by the observ- 
ing knowledge that neither man nor dog pay much attention, 
or are mindful of their back tracks, while all hunted animals 
are. 

They have, too, been known to make friends with dogs, 
even to playing and running with younger hounds, chasing 
them and then driving them off again. Wolves, to which 
family the fox belongs, even going further than this. For 
many a slut wolf has been known to consort with several 
different dogs, and to have even connections with them in 
season. Indeed, one-half the Indian dogs I have seen, which 
belong to the Esquimaux and North American Indians, with 
whom I have spent many years, are but the very offspring 
of the wolf itself, defying many to even distinguish between 
them in any way, form or shape, looks, color or action even. 

Often when trapping, too, one can observe how they have 
been followed by both wolves and foxes,, who in regions in- 
habited by them will follow even in the foot or snow shoe 
trail of the hunter or trapper, or in the path of sleigh, sled 
or wagon wheel trails; and one has but to take a few doses 
of reason and judgment to realize that they have been both 
followed and watched by these crafty animals, who by cu- 
riosity and information thus gained dodge both the hunter 
and trapper, and render his efforts to kill or capture them 
in many instances next to useless. 

In these traits both fox and wolves use much the same 
methods. Any old trapper or hunter will tell you one is 
just as hard to trap or lure as the other, both of them hav- 
ing many similar and yet dissimilar traits. 

The best time to find either is very early in the morning 



364 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 




An Ideal Playground for the Fur and Feathered 
Denizens of the Woods and Forest. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 365 

or evening from twilight on, or on moonlight nights. If in 
the day time, about noon, when they are sunning themselves 
and watching — hence difficult to find or approach. 

While wolves hunt in packs, foxes seldom do; at the 
most a pair of foxes will, and this only in season, as they 
invariably sneak about alone, solitary like. You will find 
young foxes easier to trap than old ones, but it is because 
they are green and not experienced enough. Yet younger 
foxes are extremely suspicious at first, sometimes more so 
than the old fellows, until they become bold. Like the wolf, 
they roam around, covering a good deal of ground, in the 
coldest of weather especially, going here and there; and 
often one is inclined to think there is more of them than 
there really is by their numerous yet same tracks. When 
all other animals are "holed up" foxes and wolves prowl 
around. At these times their scent is unusually acute, and 
as game in winter is generally scarce, they are invariably 
hungry and on the go. It is this acute sense of smell that 
makes them, together with the knowledge and fear of man 
both, extremely suspicious and difficult to lead to trap, be- 
cause they invariably smell his tracks or trail and avoid the 
vicinity of theirs. 

The greatest difference between them is that wolves, as 
a rule, depart from civilized communities, while foxes thrive 
and remain there, because the wolf is his enemy, although 
indeed they, live in peace together when foods are plenty, 
and under certain conditions. 

Both foxes and wolves, in their travels, too, void their 
urine, much as do dogs, on various limited mounds, stumps 
and little hills, as they go along, roaming around from place 
to place, traveling in similar paths (every beaten well known 
spot is their signal station and meeting spot), and periodic- 
ally visiting their favorite spots and haunts, continually on 
the watch for any prospects of a feed, the fox often cover- 
ing 15 to 20 miles in a night, and wolves considerably more. 

When food is plenty foxes will often bury and leave the 
remains of a feast, and will as surel}'- return to that same 
place for another feed. If it is small game and a vixen fox, 
she will often lug it off with them to their cover or den. 
carrying it of¥ in their mouths after holding their head high 
to do it. I have never seen them toss it over their shoulders 



366 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



Experience is the Best Teacher. 




His First Lesson. 



Perseverance Leads to Success. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 3&7 

to carry, as some writers declare. I know, too, by observa- 
tion that foxes especially love to cateh and kill their own 
food. While not adverse to eating carrion or dead flesh, 
if hungry, they will never touch it if they can help it — un- 
less it is their own killing; then they like it, and the more 
"gamey" it is the better; in fact it is sometimes buried for 
this purpose. But of all things they enjoy it is a feast of 
something they have run down, caught or killed themselves. 
— rabbit, wild fowl or birds especially — mice being a favor- 
ite mors'el. They will at times, too, store up quantities of 
food killed by themselves, especially toward winter. 

In my Hudson Bay trapping experiences I often found 
in' fox dens and coverts mice and lemmings in plenty, 
stored away, some of which I often used in baiting my 
traps. Arctic foxes, too, peculiarly enough, have but little 
scent glands. In fact, in my experience I have found that 
as one goes south these scent glands increase; hence I 
attribute much of the make-up to the variety of foods which 
they exist upon. 

Another thing I wish to impress upon the minds of my 
trapper readers especially is the fact that if you use live 
baits when trapping you won't have much cause to com- 
plain of success, if foxes abound. Time and time again have 
I proved this to my own satisfaction, not only in the North, 
but in nearly every State in the Union where I have trapped 
as well. I have found there is no decoy, lure, bait or scent 
equal to the real thing. 

In seeking their prey foxes are great stalkers, creeping 
up slowly toward their quarry, in a round-about way, or will 
still hunt equally as well laying for a squirrel, bird or rab- 
bit, like a cat will watch for a mouse. Even in the South 
they will hunt muskrat, squirrel or skunk the same way. I 
have seen them watch a hole or burrow from behind it, 
lay on a projecting ledge, or, concealed b}- a log or bush, 
watching for a chance at any of them, playing 'possum like, 
or trying to draw or coax them within springing distance, 
even leaping up into the air, or on a low tree branch, to 
secure a mouthful of "fur or feathers," as the case may be. 
A fox, too, when hard pressed with hounds, will leap into 
a low tree branch to avoid the dogs; but not an old fox. 
There are no foxes that can climb trees; they can leap up 



368 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

to the lower limbs — the grey fox especially — and from one 
limb to another, but I have never seen them climb trees, 
as is claimed by many writers, and I don't believe there is 
any truth in the statement. I have seen dogs do the same 
thing — go up in a low branching tree pretty well after coons, 
squirrels, etc., but when it came to coming down they whined 
and howled, as if saying, "Help me out of the fix I'm in" — 
and the same rule applies to foxes equally as well. 

In killing their prey they spring and grasp it by the neck 
or throat and snap at it, much as does the wolf, and will 
even do this to the "skunk," seeming to kill them quickly, 
before he gets a chance to throw his scent. Indeed, the 
more I see of animals and birds generally, who are caught 
and killed thus, the more I am inclined to think and believe 
that their death is almost painless. It seems as though the 
suddenness of attack shocks, dazes or paralyzes them, espe- 
cially so when taken by surprise. On the other hand, if 
they meet and fight on anything like equal grounds, you will 
see almost any animal or bird put up a good, stiff and often 
prolonged and a desperate fight, keeping it up until they kill 
or maim each other; or like good Irishmen in a scrap, one 
quits or cries enough. And it is evident, too, they regard 
the first blow or attack as half the battle besides. 

As the vixen cohabits freely with any male specie, the 
strain or breed is often mixed in the one litter; this, how- 
ever, not being noticeable until they mature. You will find, 
too, in all foxes that the scent glands are unusually strong 
and active as the pairing season advances, and these scent 
glands, at these times of all, are especially valuable to the 
trapper for future use, although at this time it is a fact that 
they hunt mates more closely than foods. (See Scents, Bait, 
etc.) 

When hounded by dogs they will travel great distances, 
but seldom in a straight-away direction, unless it is a stran- 
ger to the locality, in which case they invariably head for 
their more familiar haunts, and have been known to cover 
25 to 30 miles of distance thus in a few hours' drive. As a 
rule, however, they circle round, depending more on mis- 
leading the hounds than upon speed, and relying on trick- 
ery. Good dogs will invariably run them down in a few 
hours at the most. For this purpose one or two fast bounds 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 369 

are used, or perhaps let in to the chase at various periods. 
As this will be taken up more fully elsewhere, we will turn 
to other subjects in this chapter. 

I have referred to the acuteness of a fox's scent before, 
and much has been said of the fox's ability to smell traps 
and the iron thereof. To my mind, however, this is over- 
estimated. It is his ability to smell man scent and to read 
signs that keeps them away from traps more than does the 
smell of iron. An old fox is so afraid and suspicious of 
man that he will sometimes refuse to even cross the path 
or tracks of his most dreaded enemy, and will often go back 
miles to avoid it, so much so that I am convinced that if 
trappers generally did as much to conceal their own scent 
and doing^as they did to remove the scent from their traps 
they would be better off for the trouble. 

The great trouble is that trappers generally leave too 
much of their own scent and sign around — so much so that 
one can see proof of it at a glance — by fox signs, going near 
or around about your traps, but not up to them. When you 
see this just realize you are to blame, and if you are wise 
you'll take the hint. 

A fox can tell where you have stored and dug up the 
ground in an effort to set or locate a trap correctly, better 
than he can smell iron, and he is too foxy to commit sui- 
cide. True, they can smell iron; but if you can^ f ool their 
suspicious eyes and leave less of your scent and sign around, 
you can trap foxes, provided you possess the other neces- 
sary qualifications as to the correct place to make the set, 
to use 'bait and scent judiciously. He is chuck full of far 
greater intelligence in the way of locating suspicious-like 
signs than he is of smelling iron and locating traps. 

Perhaps you have noticed that often your best success 
comes after a slight fall of rain or snow. That was because 
it helped kill sign and your scent more than the smell of it. 

Again, I want to call attention to what I consider the 
too free use of dead bait. I have personally watched them 
paw over and play with a piece of meat laid out for the pur- 
pose of leading them to a trap, and, like a cat, will paw a 
strange dead bird or grouse. They seemed to act afraid of 
It. They took it in their mouth and spit it out, as much as 
to say it tastes and smells suspicious like, and when eventu- 



370 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



ally they swallowed it, it went down like medicine. The 
whole truth was, it had human scent, thereon brought about 
in handling it. 

Another thing I want to call attention to is in the im- 
proper use of "scents" generally. There is too much doping 
going on in an inexperienced way by the trapper, concocting 
or making his own. This business is mixing up cat, skunk, 
muskrat, fish oils, etc.; can be and is overdone. Scent is 
all right if right, but this smell or stink, mix up anything 
or kind of scenl, is just where trappers make a big mistake. 
They seem to think if they can raise a big stink it's all 
that's necessary. "Not by a jug full." The scent of a 
putrid carcass is fine scent — just as much as it is good bait — 
because it is natural, it is right. But there isn't a fox living 
but what can distinguish it as against some of that worse 
than human excrement called Home-AIade Trappers' Fox 
Scent. 




In the Trappers' Haunts 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 371 

Use and Abnse of Trail and Bait Scents. 

(Right and Wrong Methods) 

There is too much of this happy-go-lucky-hit-and-miss 
kind of scents, trapping or "skimming" going on. Animals 
aren't fooled so easily, especially the critter known as the 
Fox, and he isn't going to lose his reputation and hide by 
experimenting, or taking pot luck, with things that both 
look and smell suspicious to him. No wonder it is that ani- 
mals sometimes express their silent contempt by voiding 
urine and droppings on such sets, or by turning upside down 
traps so vulgarly laid, and the sooner it is realized the bet- 
ter. Trapping is an art that requires extreme patience and 
care, and the quicker and closer you get down to it the bet- 
ter off will be 3'our success. One must use reason and judg- 
ment always — the more the better. 

The ideal fox scent is that of the vixen fox (matrix and 
urine) itself, and no home-made dope will equal a few drops 
of this. The next best thing is natural and fresh bait, and 
blood, and with these things, and your traps well hidden, set 
judiciously and right, you'll catch foxes when others fail. 
(See Baits and Scent chapter.) 

In my time, before I got old at the business, I tried a'bout 
everything I could get. I have used the other fellow's "medi- 
cine" and got doped for my pains. I have made, mixed and 
seen put up the "darndest" concoctions that sun and manure 
piles could hatch out from worm, snake, fish oil, roes, hogs' 
liver, skunk, cat and muskrat galore — even getting down to 
"sowbelly" (fried), catnip juice, wild honey and fox berries, 
and know by observation and experience that some of the 
"rot" that's hawked about and recommended as good scent, 
at so much per ounce or recipe — even imported at that — 
ain't worth bottle room, in comparison to that made for the 
fox alone, and even this must be put up and used in correct 
proportions by those that know how. There are good 
scents and methods of trapping foxes galore, and plenty of 
wide-awake trappers who get their share of pelts every sea- 
son, but they ain't "skimmers," and have learned long since 
that it isn't the king of assorted stinks that turns the trick. 
Foxes aren't going around half starved, ready to jump at 



373 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



SCENT BAITS— RIGHT AND WRONG KINDS 




Use of Good Scent Insures Success. 



Buy the Very Best Trail or Bait Scent, If You Buy Any at Ail- 
Never Buy from Any but Reliable Concerns Whose 
Reputation is Established. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 373 

any old bait or scent that leads to a trap, because a piece 
of meat and smell comes their way — not by a long shot. 
Neither can any one make a first-class fox trapper out of a 
dub by instructions alone; it takes experience. But he can 
point out wherein one's knowledge lacks, and show him 
how to avoid failures in many ways, and this I propose to 
try to do in more ways than one. 

To begin with, have you ever considered the eradication 
of youf own scent? Take, for instance, your clothing or the 
gloves you handle, prepare and scent your traps with. Did 
it ever occur to you that these need boiling out and cleaning 
just as much as your traps do? A good many seem to think 
they can paw over gloves and use them for an3^thing and 
everything, until they smell with dirt and perspiration, hu- 
man scent, and yet consider them as fit for handling and 
setting traps. I say no. Try the plan of using cheap can- 
vas, clean overgloves or mitts, rubber if you will, and which 
you can wash and keep clean. Scent them if you will, and 
you'll find it better than using those old dirty mitts that 
are mixed up with tobacco, rust and dirt of every conceiv- 
able and foreign kind. Don't be adverse either to wearing 
clean clothes. If it's winter let them be cotton overalls, 
white, washed snow-white and clean. Get a pair of rubber 
boots, or even fur overs, an old skin overshoe, and use to 
approach and make your sets. Don't be adverse to having 
in a handy place, near your traps, a log or piece of bark to 
stand upon. Cultivate the use of snow shoes or skis. Keep 
to your tracks and standing or squatting in the one place in 
making your sets, instead of moving around too much. Don't 
lay your other trap and fixings alongside of your work, or 
move them about on the ground or snow about you. If 
you use scent be sure it is the very best. Stand on a 
rock, and drench even your tracks, If you can rig a make- 
shift of a few logs as a small raft, or use a log to stand on 
in the water, do so. Don't whittle chips or sticks around any 
place or squirt tobacco juice about. Open the stomach of 
the animals you secure and see what they are feeding on; 
it will perhaps give you a tip and set j^ou to thinking. Don't 
be too liberal in pick-up baits; at the most they lead to 
suspicion, and terminate in what you have tried to conceal, 



374 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

the trap. Foxes are dainty, fastidious, methodical sort of 
creatures, who are not going in a sort of hap-hazard way 
about things; neither must you. He is an adept about de- 
ceits himself, and is expecting such particular things from 
you. Put more time into the securing and employment of 
fresh, inviting foods, that tempt and make his mouth water 
and cause him such surprise that he will forget everything 
else and get busy to secure it. That's why I recommend 
appropriate live bait. There is just as much necessity of 
putting spare time and money in live bait, rabbits and chick- 
ens, etc., — even to raising them — as there is in shotguns and 
rifles, time and shoe leather. In other words, head instead 
of feet work. Naturalists in their study of animals ofttimes 
spend days and nights in tediously watching a hole or spot 
for a single chance to obtain a photograph of an animal un- 
awares, or in scheming to observe the animal's ways. The 
true still hunter will spend a week in the woods or forest 
for the chance of a single lucky shot at his favorite big game. 
The patient angler will change his "flies, in a dozen casts, 
and stand for hours to his waist in rapid waters, to lure a 
mere finny fighter to his rod for a test of skill. Is it not 
then fitting that the trapper exercise an equal share of pa- 
tience, enthusiasm and care to ensnare the crafty fox, who, 
inch for inch and pound for pound, matches up with any 
animal for cunning, intelligence and indisputably contests 
and baffles your ability to entrap him? Is he not worthy of 
your best efforts, and shown himself, from the black tip of 
his nose to the white tip of his brush, fitted for your skill, 
tests your ability? 

Why is it not as sportsmanlike to tempt him to his fate 
thus, by snare or trap, as it is to meet that pitiful job of 
being hounded to death and then torn to pieces, after an ex- 
haustive cruel chase, when his strength and wiles have failed 
him, and overpowering numbers of men, women, horses 
and dogs thus seek his end, and yet term such the high art 
of sportsmanship? 

Indeed, when I hear such as these folks ridicule trap- 
ping as an art I liken it, much as does an eagle to the chal- 
lenge or criticism of the peacock's. 

Another thing of importance in fox trapping is this ques- 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 375 

tion of baits. By all means, if you have not yet studied 
the advantages of using live baits or live decoys do so. 
Nothing in the world makes a fox's mouth water quicker 
than the prospect of a good feast from a small live rabbit, 
duck or chicken. Professional trappers often purchase or 
capture and keep them alive for that purpose, for he has 
long since found out the sight of such things will make 
any old fox forget himself and suspicions in his efforts to 
get nejft as quick as possible to his feed. He won't even 
stop to cogitate,, or wonder how it gets there either, until 
too late to realize the awkwardness of the position his greed 
has gotten him into. 

Right here, too, I wish to call the trapper's attention to 
the fact that, peculiarly enough, no animals seem to pos- 
sess the faculty of thinking of any two things at the one 
time; hence if you can detract their minds from that upper- 
most in their thoughts or fear, i. e., suspicion and traps, 
make him forget it, so to speak, by the tantalizing sight of 
something good moving and alive to eat, you are mighty 
apt to get an extra pelt for your pains. 

Neither will such baits need renewal or rescenting when 
it rains, freezes or snows, or will it smell unnatural like; 
on the contrary, it will increase in value and attractive quali- 
ties so long as you keep it thus, and answer the same pur- 
pose for many a similar catch besides. 

Another thing let me impress upon you. Never let your 
bait or scents smell like a dozen different things. Better 
pin your faith to any single good one. A fox can smell 
but one thing at a time, and this is generally the one that 
is the strongest, be it yourself or your medicine. 

Again, don't be prejudiced against going out (without 
a gun) on a moonlight night, after a light fall of snow, so 
as to watch the quarry you seek. Then you will learn much 
of the ways and habits of things, which will verify much 
that I have written here. Watch, wait and listen in likely 
spots, and you are apt to see things that will prove a reve- 
lation to you, and in a hundred ways repay the time and 
effort. 

As a general rule, all foxes will travel in a round-about 
way to and from their favorite dens, meeting spots or cover, 
and are unusually careful to approach such places unob- 



376 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

served. As a rule, too, they select an elevated location from 
which they can observe what is going on in that vicinity, 
and will seldom approach if danger threatens. Should one 
happen upon him when near to his cover, he will turn to a 
different direction in an effort to lead you away. Usually 
their den or cover is on the south side of a hill, and they 
are particularly fond of selecting a tree stump, rock ledge 
or mound, on which they can bask in the sun. The}^ like 
to play in dry sand, and will often be found in the sand 
dunes, banks or little hills, and at these times will frequently 
go to an elevation to reconnoitre. As a rule they hunt away 
for these spots, and, like a cat, will lay for hours watching 
a likely place for rabbit, grouse or small birds. If it can't 
get near enough it will perform all sorts of antics to attract 
curious attention and tempt a nearer approach, and many 
a bird or wild fowl has been lured to its death by these 
means. As a rule they are flesh-eating, preferring to catch 
and kill their own foods, seizing their victims by a sudden 
spring, or chasing or running them down. When hungry 
they will eat dead food, but not until they have satisfied 
themselves that it is free from suspicion. After a feast 
they will go to some stream of good water and drink heart- 
ily, and then to cover or den, and with one eye open sleep 
cat-like naps. 

A good way to watch them is to choose a moonlight 
night, and, selecting some good spot, hide yourself and re- 
main quiet. If they approach in your direction remain per- 
fectly still, and unless the wind blows your scent to them 
strongly they will not notice you. Indeed, all animals per- 
ceive by motion mostly, and if one remains quiet they will 
seldom take alarm. Ofttimes, too, one can decoy or lure 
them closer by imitating the faint squeak of a mouse, twit 
of a bird, squeak of a duck, chirp of a squirrel, or a low, 
soft whistle. 

I have told you before that foxes depend more on acute 
scent than sight in lots of instances, and this is especially 
the case in winter and daytime. You will often find tracks 
of them following ifailroad tracks, telegraph poles and fences,, 
looking for birds, mice, refuse, etc., that have been thrown 
from or killed by the train or wires, and for mice holes 
about fence posts, around corn cribs, stacks, husking piles. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 377 

manure dumps, etc., or recently deserted camping- places. 
If you find their trail in these places, or on a path or wagon 
road, place your traps on the higher spots, about mounds, 
old tree stumps, etc., where they usually void their urine — 
a damp, close night makes a scented bait better, while a 
frosty night diminishes it, and makes a renewal necessary. 
If you find a good spring of water, examine it closely, to 
see if it is used by animals for drinking purposes; if so it 
is an ideal place for a set; only you must leave it as you 
find it, "^nd arrange your set where he must step up to take 
a drink. You can lift a piece of sod or moss and drench 
both trap and chain therein, packing it clear so as to work 
freely. If a sandy spot, so much the better; and the same 
rule applies to mossy and grassy places. Never use chaff, 
wood ashes or rotten wood out of place — anything strange 
excites suspicion and causes them to avoid it. Use a branch 
to brush out tracks and even up the ground, or sift some 
snow over your set, instead of using chunks of it. Don't 
be adverse to making two or three sets in a likely place; 
put the bait on your cloaks if necessary. If you dig up dry 
ground use a pointed stick and carry away excess dirt, not 
leave it near by; stand on a log, stone, old hide, and keep 
to your own same tracks as much as possible. Let your 
trap be either No. 1^ or 2; for the smaller species !]/> 
is ample, and is also suitable for mink, skunk, woodchuck, 
raccoon, etc. 

To prepare the trap, dip it in blood or boil it in rain 
water and wood ashes, or a composition of tree bark, hen 
or cow manure, water and beeswax, which will color it 
brown; ideal for fall uses. If winter time, you can enamel 
your traps white with bicycle enamel paint for dry sets, or 
throw into the solution 3'ou boil your traps in a few hand- 
fuls of lime or kalsomine, which will whiten them to al- 
most snow color. If for water sets, 3'Ou need not prepare 
your traps in any way. Try to conceal and disguise the 
looks of your traps. It isn't the smell of iron, it's the trap 
itself, and the poor efforts to hide them that makes foxes 
suspicious. The whole secret is in selecting an ideal spot, 
and in concealing your sets, disguising the trap — not in 
destroying the smell of iron. If you use scent let it be 
that of the fox itself, obtained from the womb or matrix 



378 



COMPLETE TRAPPERvS GUIDE 



of the vixen — fur dealers supplying about the best made. If 
you use live rabbits they will soon scent up a place 
by their own manure and urine that will bring all 
kinds of animals to that vicinity. You can protect the live 
bait by a cage of wire netting, and the longer it stays the 
better is your chance for final and repeated success. If 
you find a hollow log put your live bait cage inside, using 
for this the common chicken fence wire. Then make your 
sets in each end, one on top of the log or windfall. If you 




Animal Trail Scent 

make trapping a business get out and locate the best places 
before the trapping season, commences; do your work then 
in a preparatory way, and if needs be group logs, as shown 
in my illustration, for the purpose, using the ordinary open 
mesh wire cage to protect and secure the live bait that you 
place therein, which, if supplied with food, drink and bed- 
ding, will live well there all winter long if needs be, just 
as it would in a regular rabbit hutch or house; you can 
feed them on dry foods, oats, wheat, vegetables, bran, buck- 
wheat, corn, etc. If you use buck and doe rabbits you will 
soon solve the question of plenty of live bait, by breeding 
litters of them yourself. 

If you find or place a carcass, place your sets at the 
same time; don't wait until you see signs and then do it, 
or you will spoil your chances of success. If in a farming 
district, hunt for tracks on the ground furrows, as animals 
invariably run along them to old cornfields, wheat stacks, 
etc., and make your sets in the most likely places; in bed- 
ding them down use cotton or a piece of clean cldth, and 
let your bed be according to the size of your trap, so it 
will cover freely and clear. If fresh bait is to be had, by 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



379 



all means use it. If not, use those such as I mention in 
my chapter on Baits, Scents, etc., not forgetting what I 
have said about the judicious use of such things. Baits and 
scents must not be used to excess or overdone, especially 
in fox trapping. 

Again, many run down wolves and foxes with hounds, 
which work together in a chase. Indeed, this is often con- 
sidered the quickest way; for this purpose fleet fox hounds 
are used, supplemented in the pack by several who are fast 
runners, being interbred with the grey or stag hounds for 
the purpose. When let out in fox districts they soon pick 
up a cold trail, the hunters usually following in the distance 
from behind, striking across and meeting them, instead of 
following in a zig-zag course. 

As the trail shows up more recent signs or becomes hot 
the dogs will tongue at times freely — a signal or expression 
that indicates their course, proximity or success, and illus- 
trating the power of animal scent; at times they run or 
trail silently, but a still trailer in a cold and puzzling trail 
is hard to follow or keep track of; hence a well-voiced dog 
is often easier and better suited. As a rule two large dogs 
play out easier than small ones; hence those of medium 
size are preferable. When chased thus young foxes will 
den up, or will, if pushed hard, even "tree" in an effort to 
throw the hounds ofT the scent. Foxes, however, do not 

"BUZZACOTT'S" CONCENTRATED SCENT BAIT 




One Drop Equals Thrae Drops of ihc Ordinary Kind 

climb trees; they will leap up to the lower branches much 
as a cat will to hide or avoid their enemies, but I have never 
yet seen a fox that could really climb trees in the full sense 
of the word, and seldom do old foxes ever resort to such a 
flimsy trick, as it invariably results in their capture and end. 
Neither will old foxes den up; at times young ones will 



380 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



lead the hunter or hounds to its earth, resulting in the final 
capture of a family, but not often. Sometimes these chases 
do not last long, especially so if fresh dogs or hounds are 
let in, when the fox shows signs of being tuckered out, 
two or three hours being the average chase. At times, 
however, they will not circle much, but make a straight 
get-away, and resort to trickery to get the best of the 
hounds, leading them to hilly, stony or watered courses or 
streams, where the dogs lose scent; again in taking through 
thickets, berry bushes and rough country, which tear the 
feet and legs of the hounds, and cause them to bleed and 
become sore; in deer country the hounds are apt in their 
r'uns to start deer and to run them to water. In rocky 
places, however, foxes will take to cliffs and dens and hide 
safely therein, to the discomfiture of both hounds and hunt- 
ers. At times, too, foxes will change their dens or cover 
for newer or more isolated ones, removing their young cubs 
by carrying them, just as a cat carries its young. 



^iJ^^^^tMliPlir 




The Rabbit. 



CO.MPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 381 



HOW TO BAIT THE FOX PREVIOUS TO 
SETTING THE TRAP. 

Go into the woods, make what we call a bed, three feet 
in diameter, or thereabout. Wood ashes will do, but chaff 
is best. Oat chaff, wheat chaff, buckwheat chaff better still. 
Make ifdeep enough to cover the trap, and have some under 
the trap to keep it off of the ground or snow. Make it 
smooth and level, and put some beef scraps on it and throw 
some around it. This will induce the fox to come up to the 
bed, and after a few trials he will step into it and pick up 
the scraps, and perhaps turn it bottom side up to see what 
there is in it. When you have got him coming regularly 
and taking the bait, wash your trap clean in weak lye, grease 
it, and rub off all the rust and dirt. Then hold it in the 
smoke of burning hen's feathers until it is well smoked. 
Chain it fast to a piece of wood about two feet long, and 
as big as your arm. Now take the trap, chain and clog, open 
a hole in the bed, and bury them neatly in the chaff, having 
a piece of wood under the trap to keep it steady, and a 
sheet of paper over it so that the chaff will not prevent 
its working easily. Cover everything up neatly, and sprinkle 
the bait as usual upon the bed. 

Approach the bed only from one side, stepping always 
in the same tracks, and leave as little sign as possible that 
you have been there. If snow has fallen since the fox was 
last there, take a meal sieve and sift a little snow over the 
heap and over your own footprints for some distance 
back from the bed. Xow I expect you will catch him, but 
if he smells the trap and won't come to the bed while it is 
there, take it out and clean it better, and melt some bees- 
wax, and with a feather smear it all over the trap and chain. 
Xow put it in the bed again, and you will be quite sure of 
the fox. 

Here is another way: Select a rise of ground in a back 
field, make a bed of ashes or mould large enough to receive 
your steel trap level with the surface. Bait with cheese 
or scraps from lard. When the fox takes the bait, set your 



382 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

trap as follows: Turn the springs toward the jaw that holds 
up the pan of the trap. Put the trap low enough when 
covered to be level with the surface. Put hay chaff inside 
of the jaws level with the pan. Then put a paper over the 
pan reaching to the inside of the jaws. Then cover with 
ashes or mould, and make the bed look as it did before 
the trap was set. Bait with cheese or scraps, or fresh meat 
of any kind. 

Another way is to bury the entrails of an animal in mel- 
low ground, making a little hill over them. Set your trap 
just at the edge of the hill in the dirt, always using the 
chaff and paper, and keep your trap clean from rust. Scent 
with musk or lavender water or fox scent. 

Here is another from an old trapper in the state of Ohio: 
First prepare the trap, then hold it in the smoke of burn- 
ing oat straw until it begins to sweat. Then dry it off with 
a woolen cloth, and throw it into spring water for one or 
two hours. After that, dry it off without letting it rust. 
Make the bed with clover or buckwheat chaff, making it as 
hard as possible with the hand, except a hole in the center 
for the trap, which set in and cover lightly with chaff, or, 
after the trap is set, take a feather and sprinkle a little oil 
of amber very lightly over the bed. 

Another common-sense way of catching the fox is to bait 
him as usual, and clean your trap as clean as possible, not 
only from rust and dirt (these should not be in your trap 
any way), but of all human scent, such as it would get by 
handling with your naked hands, or in any way touching 
your body. This is what the fox becomes cunning about; 
but a trap washed out in ashes and water, laid by until it is 
dry, and then handled with a pair of very clean gloves, will 
no more scare a fox than would so much stone covered 
up. Don't spit about the bed, nor track about it, and when 
3^ou have caught a fox, don't handle the trap with your 
bare hands, and you may catch a dozen without more cleaning. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



383 



THE RACOON 

The raccoon is about twenty-six inches long; the tail eight 
inches; the weight twenty to twenty-five pounds-. The head 
is rather round, the nose sharp and flexible, and the expres- 
sion of \^'\e face cunning, sly, and foxy. The feet are planti- 
grade, and hence the animal was considered by some early 
naturalists as a small bear. The general color of the fur is 
blackish gray, but paler on the under part of the body; the 




Raccoon 



point of the nose and soles of the feet black, and the eyes 
black. Around the face is a circle of yellowish-white hair. 
The tail is marked with five or six black rings, and is tipped 
with black. The body is stout, the back arched upward, 
the legs rather long, and the claws strong. 

The favorite haunts of the raccoon are solitary forests 
upon marshy ground, intersected by streams. His food con- 
sists of birds' eggs, the eggs of the soft-shelled turtle, frogs, 
mussels, and various other small animals. Alojig the coast 
in the Southern States, he finds a species of oyster in which 
he delights: though we are told that he sometimes pays dear 
for the whistle, as he gets his paw caught by a fixed shell, 
and, unable to escape, he is drowned by the returning tide. 
Sometimes he creeps silently in the sedges like a cat, snap- 
ping up a duck that comes v/ithin his reach. He climbs trees 



384 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

with ease, and not unfrequently robs the nests of the wood- 
pecker, by putting his long paws into the holes which this 
bird has chiseled in the limb of a dry tree. When the corn 
is in the milk, he steals at night into the fields and feasts 
himself to satiety, reckless of the damage done to the crop, 
and the ire of the planter when he discovers the theft. His 
conical head and sharp, flexible nose are not made in vain, 
for these enable him to pry into corners and crevices for 
spiders, worms, and the larvae of various insects, of which 
he is very fond. 

Thus the raccoon is an animal of large resources and 
marked character. He goes prowling about as well b}^ night 
as by day. He is a fisher, a hunter, a trapper, a reaper, or 
a fly-catcher, as occasion may require. He is instinctively 
cunning as a fox, inquisitive and meddlesome as the monkey, 
greedy as a bear, sly as a cat. In northern climates, on the 
approach of winter, he retires to his home and sleeps like 
the bear till spring, or only goes abroad occasionally in 
fair weather. At the south, he is active during the year. 
His nest is usually made in the hollow trunk of a tree. From 
four to six young ones are produced at a birth, this event 
taking place in May. The young coons are half as big as a 
rat, and utter a plaintive wail like an infant. 

The hunting of the raccoon is a favorite sport in some 
parts of the country. The hunts usually take place by moon- 
light, dogs being used to tree the game. Great experience 
is required, as these creatures are nimble and subtle, and 
often baflie even the most skillful hunters. Many of these 
animals are caught in various kinds of traps baited with 
honey, sugar, berries, eggs, frogs, corn, fish, birds, etc., or 
anything which they are fond of, in season or out. They 
den up in holes about rocks or in hollows of trees, mating 
in March, becoming prime about the middle of Xovember or 
the early part of December. 

In its gait and general carriage is visible an admixture 
of the plantigrade with the digitigrade; for when it stands 
or sits it plants the entire sole of its foot upon the ground, 
but when it runs in haste it only touches the earth with the 
tips of its toes. Generally, it is nocturnal in its habits. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 385 

passing the whole of the daytime in sleep, snugly curled up 
in the warm blanket of its own rich fur, and slumbering 
heavily with its head sunk between its hinder limbs. 

As is indicated by the peculiar nature of its teeth, the 
raccoon is capable of feeding on animal or vegetable food, 
but seems to prefer the latter. Indeed, there seem to be 
few things which the raccoon will not eat. One of these 
animals.ate a piece of cedar pencil which it snatched out of 
my hand, and tried very hard to eat the envelope of a letter 
on which I was making notes. Xot succeeding in the at- 
tempt, it consoled itself by tearing the paper into minute 
morsels, employing teeth and paws in the attempt. It did its 
best to' get a ring off my finger, by hitching one of its 
crooked claws into the ring and pulling with all its strength, 
which was very considerable in proportion to the size of 
the animal. Its brown eyes lighted up with animation when 
engaged in play, and it was very fond of pushing its paw 
through the bars of its cage, in order to attract attention. 

In its native state it is a great devourer of oysters, crabs, 
and other similar animals, displaying singular ingenuity in 
opening the stubborn shells of the oysters, or in despatching 
the crabs without suffering from their ready claws. Its 
oyster-eating propensities have been questioned, but are now 
clearly proven. The sand and soil that fringe the oyster- 
beds are frequently seen to be covered with the footmarks 
of this animal. 

It is always fond of water, drinking largely, and immers- 
ing its food, so as to moisten it as much as possible. When 
engaged in this curious custom it grasps the food in both 
its forepaws, and shakes it violently backward and forward 
in the water. On account of this remarkable habit it has 
been dignified with the title of Lotor, a washer. The Ger- 
man naturalists term it Wasch-Bar, or Washing Bear. In 
captivity it is anything but abstemious, and rejects plain 
water, provided that it can be furnished with fermented 
liquids, strong and sweet. If taken young, it is easily made 
tame, but is the booziest or worst toper living if he can get 
any liquor that is sweet and strong. He furthermore relates 
that this animal is in the habit of catching crabs by putting 



The New "Stop Thief" Wire Trap. 




This illustration shows how the trap catches around the 
animal's neck and chokes it to death. . 

Above traps are especially designed for Gophers, Squirrels, Mink, 
Rabbits, Skunk, Raccoon, Badger, etc, etc. 




■•- •• ".J 






»<$v 







Trap Set at Den of Skunks. 
As these animals are unsuspecting no covering is 
needed over traps; as he enters he is caught and killed 
by trap choking and holding him. 

386 



COMPLETE TRAPPE'RS GUIDE. 387 

its foot into their holes, and dragging out the crab as soon 
as it seizes the intruding limb. 

Roving at night through the woods, and being gifted with 
singular subtlety as well as agility, it is frequently chased 
by the residents, who thing a 'coon hunt to be one of the 
most exciting of sports. Certainly, to judge from the ani- 
mated descriptions of such scenes, the whole affair must be 
marvellously picturesque to the eye as well as exciting to 
the mind. The usual plan of hunting the 'coon is to set 
an experienced dog on its trail, and to chase it until it takes 
refuge in a tree. A blazing fire of pine-chips is then built 
under the tree, which illuminates its branches and renders 
the smallest leaf perceptible, A good climber then ascends 
the tree, and speedily dislodges the concealed animal. 

In size, the raccoon equals a small fox, to which animal 
it bears a slight external resemblance. 



HOW TO CATCH THE RACCOON 

Although he is a nocturnal animal, yet when routed in 
the day time he travels at a great* rate. 

You may scent the trail leading from one trap to an- 
other as you do for the marten, and the same trap will 
answer for both animals, and you will sometimes catch a 
coon or a mink. 

The raccoon is well known in the greater part of the 
south, and the raccoon hunts form the burden of many 
laughable stories. He has a bloodthirsty and vindictive 
spirit; he slaughters the tenants of the poultry-yard with 
indiscriminate ferocity, and this in many cases leads to his 
own destruction, by exciting the vengeance of the farmer. 

Being peculiarly fond of sweet substances, the raccoon 
is occasionally very destructive to fields of Indian corn. 
While the ear of the corn is still young, soft and tender, 
in the milk, and is very sweet, it is then eagerh^ sought 
by the raccoon. A family of them, five or six in number, 
frequently enter fields of corn, and in one night do con- 
siderable damage, both by the quantity of grain they con- 
sume, and the number of stalks they break down. 



r 



The New "Stop Thief" Wire Trap. 




It is Set at the Holes of Animals; Dens, etc., 




This illustration shows the trap concealed. A coon 
is crossing the log— smells the decoy— His attention is 
arrested he turns back to investigate. 



388 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 389 

The raccoon is an excellent climber, and his strong, 
sharp claws effectually secure him from being shaken off the 
branches of trees. In fact, so tenaciously does this animal 
hold to any surface upon which it can make an impression 
with its claws that it requires a considerable exertion of a 
man's strength to drag him off, and as long as a single foot 
remains attached, he continues to cling with great force» 
The conical form of the head, and the very pointed and 
flexible character of the muzzle or snout are of great import- 
ance in aiding the raccoon to examine every vacuity and 
crevice to which he gains access: nor does he neglect any 
opportunity of using his natural advantages, but explores 
every nook and corner with the most persevering diligence 
and attention, greedily feeding on spiders, worms or other 
small insects which are discovered by his scrutiny. Where 
the opening is too small to give admittance to his nose, he 
employs his fore paws and shifts his position, or turns his 
paws sidewise, in order to fa.cilitate their introduction and 
effect his purpose. This disposition to feed on the grubs 
or larvae of insects must render this animal of considerable 
utility in forest lands, in consequence of the great num- 
bers of injurious and destructive insects he consumes. . He 
is also said to catch frogs with considerable address, by 
slyly creeping up, and then springing on them with both 
paws. 

There are many caught and killed about cornfields, but 
the fur is then not very good. Later in the fall, and dur- 
ing the winter and spring, up to the middle of spring, it 
is excellent, and when the pelts are well dressed they make 
good mittens; putting a whole skin in each one they reach 
up to the elbows. In the spring of the year, when the 
snow begins to go off the ground, the raccoon is easily 
found. On a warm night they come out from their hol- 
low trees, make a circuit, and return on their back track. 
By watching for their return, you are quite sCire to find 
them, one, two, three or four altogether. When you go 
out to hunt them, take an axe with you, and fell some 
hollow tree in which they have their nest, and see what 
fun you will have in trying to outrun the little ring-tails. 



390 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



Later in the season, when the ground is 'bare, and the 
ice is out of the creeks and ponds, they travel along the 
mudd}^ shores in search of frogs, of which they are very 
fond. Take a trap and set it on the edge of the water. 
Fasten it well, and bait it with fish or fowl of any kind, 
placing the bait above the trap as for a mink, or behind 
the trap, in such a way that the coon can only get at it 
by going over the trap. Scent the bait with oil of anise. 
You may also catch him with a pole trap, baited with frogs, 
fish or a bit of partridge. When you find coon tracks 
in the mud, you may set your trap with a little oil of anise 
rubbed on the under side of the pan, covering it up with 
leaves or moss. The first one that comes along will stick 
his fore paws into the trap, feeling for the bait. 



fi t^ 




COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 391 



WEASELS, SKUNKS, BADGERS, MARTEN, 
ETC., ETC. 

Next in order to the dogs, is placed the large and important 
family of the Weasels, representatives of which are found in 
almost every portion of the earth. There is something marvel- 




^tCiiK— 






TheBi 



badger 



lously serpentine in the aspect and structure of the members of 
this famil}^ — the Mustelidce, as they are called, from the Latin 
word mustela, which signifies a Weasel. Their extremely long 
bodies and very short legs, together with the astonishing -per- 
fection of the muscular powers, give them the capability of 
winding their little bodies into the smallest possible crevices, 
and of waging successful battle with animals of twenty times 
their size and strength. 

First on the list of Weasels are placed the agile and lively 
Martens, or Marten-Cats, as they are sometimes termed. Two 
species of Martens are generally admitted into catalogues, 
although the distinction of the species is. even as yet a mooted 
point. The chief distinction between the pine and the beech 
Martens is the different tint of the throat, which in the former 
animal is yellow, and in the letter is white. But it is said 
by many observers that this variation of the tint is not of suf- 
ficient importance to Avarrant a separation of the species, and 
that the different sexes of the same species are marked by 
varying depth of color in the throat, the male possessing a darker 
tinge of yellow than the female. There is also a slight differ- 
ence of size between the two sexes. 



392 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

The Pine Marten is so called because it is generally 
found in those localities where the pine-trees abound, and is 
in the habit of climbing the pines in search of prey. It is a 
shy and wary animal, withdrawing itself as far as possible 
from the sight of man ; and although a fierce and dangerous 
antagonist when brought to bay, is naturally of a timid dis- 
position, and shuns collision with an enemy. 







Ermine or White Weasel. 



It is a tree-loving animal, being accustomed to traverse the 
trunks and branches with wonderful address and activity, and 
being enabled by its rapid and silent movements to steal un- 
noticed on many an unfortunate bird, and to seize it in its 
■deadly grip before the startled victim can address itself to 
flight. It is a sad robber of nests, rifling them of eggs and 
young, and not unfrequently adding the parent birds to its list 
of victims. 

The fur of the Pine Marten is rather valuable, especially 
if the animal be killed in the winter. A really fine skin is but 
little inferior to the celebrated sable, and can hardly be dis- 
tinguished from it by experienced eyes. It is thought not to be 
so prolific an animal as the Beech Marten, seldom producing 
above three or four at birth, while the latter animal has been 
known to nurture six or seven young at the same time. If 
this circumstance be generally true, it goes far towards prov- 
ing that the beech and pine marten are really distinct animals. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 393 

The head of this creature is smaller than that of the beech 
marten, and the legs are proportionately larger. 

The length of the pine marten is about eighteen inches, 
exclusive of the tail, which measures about ten inches. The 
tail is covered with long and rather bushy hair, and is slightly 
darker than the rest of the body, which is covered with brown 
hair. The tint, however, is variable in different specimens, and 
even in the same individual undergoes considerable modifi- 
cations, according to the time of year and the part of the 
world in which it is found. It has rather a wide range of 
locality, being a native of a very large portion of northern 
America. 

The Beech Marten seems to be of rather more frequent 
occurrence than the pine marten, from which animal it may 
be distinguished by the white tint of the fur on its throat and 
the upper portion of its breast. On account of this circum- 
stance, it is sometimes called the white-throated marten. A 
slight yellow tinge is sometimes observed on its throat. There 
are several names by which this animal is known, such as the 
marteren, the marten and the stone marten. 

In its destructive habits and its thirst for blood, it resembles/ 
the animal which has already been described. 

One of the most highly-valued of the weasels is the cele- 
brated sable, which produces the richly tinted fur that is in 
such great request. They are very closely allied to the mar- 
tens that have already been described, and are supposed by 
some zoologists to belong to the same species. Besides the 
well-known martes zibellina. a North American species as 
known, together with another which is an inhabitant of Japan. 
These two creatures, although they are very similar to each 
other in general aspect, can be distinguished from each other 
by the different hue of their legs and feet : the American 
sable being tinged with white upon those portions of its per- 
son, and the corresponding members of the Japanese sable 
being marked with black. 

The sable is spread over a large extent of country, being 
found in Siberia, Kamtschatka, and in Asiatic Russia. Its 
fur is in the greatest perfection during the coldest months 
of the year, and offers an inducement to the hunter to brave 



394 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

the fearful inclemency of a northern winter in order to obtain 
a higher price for his small but valuable commodity. A really 
perfect sable skin is but seldom obtained, and will command 
an exceedingly high price. 

In order to obtain these much-prized skins, the sable-hunters 
are forced to undergo the most, terrible privations, and often 
lose their lives in the snow-covered wastes in which the sable 
loves to dwell. A sudden and heavy snow-storm will oblit- 
erate in a single half-hour every trace by which the hunter 
had marked out his path, and, if it should be of long con- 
tinuance, may overwhelm him in the mountain "drifts" which 
are heaped so strangely by the fierce tempests that sweep 
over those fearful regions. Should he not be an exceedingly 
experienced hunter, possessed of a spirit which is undaunted 
in the midst of dangers, and of a mind which is stored with 
the multitudinous precepts of hunters' lore, he is certain to 
sink under the accumulated terrors of his situation, and to 
perish by cold and hunger in the midst of the snow-sea that 
rolls in huge white billows over the face of the country. 

At the best, and when he meets with the greatest success, 
the privations which he is called upon to undergo are of the 
most fearful character, and he rarely escapes without bear- 
ing on his person the marks of^ the terrible labor which he 
has performed. 

The sables take up their abode chiefly near the banks of 
rivers and in the thickest parts of the forests that cover so 
vast an extent of -territory in those uncultivated regions. 
Their homes are usually made in holes which the creatures 
burrow in the earth, and are generally made more secure by 
being dug among the roots of trees. Sometimes, however, 
they prefer to make their nests in the hollows of trees, and 
there they rear their young. Some authors, however, deny 
that the sable inhabits subterranean burrows, and assert that its 
nest is always made in a hollow tree. Their nests are soft 
and warm, being composed chiefly of moss, dried leaves, and 
grass. 

Their food is said to partake partially of a vegetable and 
partially of an animal character, according to the season of 
the year. In the summer time, when the hares and other ani- 
mals are rambling about the plains and forests, the sable 



d 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 395 

takes advantage of their presence, and kills and eats them. 
But when the severity of the winter frosts has compelled 
these creatures to remain within their domiciles, the sable is 
said to feed upon the wild berries that it finds on the branches. 
The hunters assert that the sable is not content to feed only 
on the hares and such like animals, which constitute the usual 
prey of the larger weasels, but that it is in the habit of kill- 
ing and devouring the ermine and the smaller members of 
the weasel tribe. Even birds fall victims to these agile and 
voracious animals, being often overtaken in their flight among 
the branches of trees by a well-aimed leap and a sharp stroke 
of the fore-paws. 



HOW TO CATCH THE FISHER 

The fisher, or black cat of our hunters, is a small, yet 
powerful animal, standing nearly a foot from the ground. 
It was formerly very abundant in the Middle States, but 
is now confined to the thinly settled northern districts. It 
is a nocturnal species, and lives chiefly on the smaller 
quadrupeds; but also devours frogs, fishes and serpents. 




Fisher Marten. 

It climbs with great ease, and takes up its abode in the 
trunk of a tree. The form of the body is typical; head 
broad, nose acute, ears about three inches from the nose, 
broad, rounded and distant; the fore feet are shorter than 
the hind ones, and the soles of both are covered with short 
hair; the color is grayish over the head and anterior parts 
of the body, dark brown or black behind. 



•396 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

The name of fisher, which has been censured as not 
applicable to the animal is, however, that by which he is 
best known, and which it has received from its character- 
istic habits. The hunters were in the habit of soaking their 
fish over night, and it was frequently carried off by the 
fisher, whose well known tracks were seen in the vicinity. 
While I have been engaged catching marten, having a 
line of wooden traps several miles long, the fisher would 
get upon the trail, and destroy all the traps he came to, 
taking the bait as he went. It 'brings forth two young 
ones at a time, annually. The hunting season for the fisher 
in the northern parts of Canada commences about the tenth 
of October and lasts till the middle of ]\Iarch, when the 
fur becomes less valuable. 

After finding my marten traps torn, I had to devise 
some way to stop that, by capturing the fisher. I found 
that he would never go in at the door of the trap, but 
would pull up the cover, and so take the bait without be- 
ing caught. I at once built a string trap, with two holes, 
one above the other, making two doors to enter the trap, 
and so arranging that when one sprung, both would spring; 
so that if he went in at the upper or lower door he was 
equally certain to be caught. 

I found, however, that he always went in at the top. 
The fisher may also be caught with a good double spring 
steel trap, by using the following precaution. First bend 
down a small sapling, and fasten the top under a hook, 
previously driven in the ground for the purpose. To the 
end of the sapling fasten the chain of the trap, set it, and 
cover it up neatly with leaves or other light substance, 
hanging the bait about two feet above the trap, with no 
other possible means of getting to it but to reach up over 
the trap. When he is caught and twitched about, he pulls 
the pole from under the hook, and is jerked up into the 
air, trap and all. This will prevent his gnawing off his leg, 
which he would surely do if he had the trap to himself. 
About the best bait that I know of is fish, but chicken or 
fresh meat of any kind will do very well. 

When the fisher travels he makes his tracks in the 
same manner as the marten, only his feet are about the 



L 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 397 

size of a fox's, and his jumps are about three feet long, 
unless he is hurried, when they are four or five feet long. 
When you see these tracks in the fresh fallen snow, make 
up your mind to catch the animal. It will take you all week 
perhaps, but then you will have the booty. 

The Polecat has earned for itself a most unenviable fame, 
having been long celebrated as one of the most n'oxious pests 
to which the farmyard is liable. Slightly smaller than the 
marten, and not quite so powerful, it is found to be a more 
deadly enemy to rabbits, game and poultry, than any other 
animal of its size. 

It is wonderfull}'- bold when engaged in its marauding 
expeditions and maintains an impertinently audacious air even 
when it is intercepted in the act of destruction. Not on!)'' 
does it make victims of the smaller poultry, such as ducks 
and chickens, ■ but attacks geese, turkeys, and other larger 
birds with perfect readiness. This ferocious little creature 
has a terrible habit of destroying the life of every animal 
that may be in the same chamber with itself, and if it should 
gain admission into a hen-house will kill every one of the 
inhabitants, although it may not be able to eat the twentieth 
part of its victims. It seems to be very fond of sucking the 
blood of the animals which it destroys, and appears to com- 
mence its repast by eating the brains. If several victims should 
come in its way, it will kill them all, suck their blood, and eat 
the brains, leaving the remainder of the body untouched. 

Ev'en those unpromising animals, the weasels, can be sub- 
jected to the wondrous supereminence of the human intel- 
lect. The ferret is well known as the constant companion 
of the rat-catcher and the ral:)ibit-hunter, being employed for 
the purpose of following its prey into their deepest recesses, 
and of driving them from their strongholds into the open 
air, when the pursuit is taken up by its master. The mode 
in which the ferret is employed will be presently related. 

Some writers have thought the ferret to be identical in 
species with the polecat, and have strengthened this opinion 
by the well-known fact that a mixed breed between those two 
animals is often employed by those who study the develop- 
ment and the powers of the ferret. 



398 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

When ferrets are used for the purpose of hunting rab- 
bits their mouths are securely muzzled before they are per- 
mitted to enter the burrows; as, if their teeth were at liberty, 
they would in all probability kill the first rabbit which they 
met, and remain in the burrow for the purpose of sucking 
its blood. They are purposely kept without their ordinary 
meals before they are taken into the field, and are therefore 
especially anxious to secure their prey. Several modes of 
muzzHng the ferret are in vogue : some of them being as humane 
as is consistent with the act of fastening together the jaws 
of any animal, and Others being most shamefully cruel. Not 
many years ago, it was the general custom to sew up the lips 
of the poor creature every time that it was used for hunting, 
and elaborate descriptions of this process are given in the 
sporting books of the period. Leathern muzzles are made espe- 
cially for the purpose, and are the best that can be adopted ; 
but in their absence, the ferret's mouth can be effectually 
closed by means of two pieces of string,, one of which is placed 
round the neck and the other under the jaws, and the four ends 
tied together at the back of the neck. 

Almost any ferret will enter a rabbit-burrow and drive out 
the inmates, for the rabbits do not even think of resisting 
their pursuer, and flee before him with all their might. But 
there are comparatively few ferrets that will venture to enter 
a rat-hole, especially after they have suffered once or twice 
from the sharp teeth of those voracious rodents. If the fer- 
ret is accustomed to chase rabbits, it becomes totally useless 
for the purposes of the rat-catcher, for it will not venture 
even to face a well-grown and vicious old rat, and much less 
will it dare to enter the burrow. After suffering from the 
bite of a rat, the ferret is seized with a very great respect 
for a rat's teeth, and will not willingly place itself within 
reach of those sharp-edged weapons. As has been graphically 
said by a practical rat-catcher, to force such a ferret into a 
rat-hole is "like cramming a cat into a boot, and as for hunt- 
ing, it is out of the question." 

Two kinds of ferrets are employed for the purpose of hunt- 
ing game ; the one, a creamy- white creature, with bright pink 
eyes, and the other a much darker and fiercer-looking animal, 
which is the mixed offspring of the polecat and the ferret. 



CO:\IPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 399 

This is the animal which is called the Polecat-ferret in the 
above-mentioned anecdote. 

On account of its water-loving propensities, the Mink is 
called by various names that bear relation to water. By 
some persons it is called the smaller otter, or sometimes the 
musk otter, while it is known to others under the title of 
the water polecat. 

The mink is spread over a very large extent of country, 
being found in the most northern parts of Europe, and also 
in North America. Its fur is usually brown, w'ith some white 
about the jaws, but seems to be subject to considerable vari- 
ations of tinting. Some specimens are of a much paler brown 
than others ; in ^ome individuals the fur is nearly black about 
the head, while the white patch that is found on the chin 
is extremely variable in dimensions. The size, too, is rather 
variable. 

It frequents the banks of ponds, rivers, and marshes, seem- 
ing to prefer the stillest waters in the autumn, and the rap- 
idly flowing currents in spring. As may be supposed from 
the nature of its haunts, its food consists almost wholly of 
fish, frogs, crawfish, aquatic insects, and other creatures that 
are to be found either in the waters or in their close vicinity. 
The general shape of its body is not quite the same as that 
of the marten or ferret ; and assumes something of the otter 
aspect. The teeth, however, are nearer those of the polecat 
than of the otter; and its tail, although not so fully charged 
with hair as the corresponding member in the polecat, is 
devoid of that muscular power and tapering form, which 
is so strongly characteristic of the otter. The feet are well 
adapted for swimming, on account of a slight webbing be- 
tween the toes. 

There is hardly any animal which, for its size, is so much 
to be dreaded by the creatures on which it preys as the 
common weasel. Although its diminutive proportions render 
a single weasel an insignificant opponent to man or dog, 
yet it can wage a sharp battle even with such powerful foes, 
and refuses to yield except at the last necessity. 

The proportions of the weasel are extremely small, the 
male being rather larger tBan the opposite sex. In total 
length, a full-grown male does ngt much exceed ten inches. 



400 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

of which the tail occupies more than a fifth, while the female 
is rather more than an inch shorter than her mate. The 
color of its fur is a bright reddish-brown on the upper parts 
of the body, and the under portions are of a pure white, 
the line of demarcation being tolerably well defined, but not 
very sharply cut. This contrast of red and white renders 
it an exceedingly pretty little animal. The tail is of a uni- 
form tint with the body, and is not furnished with the tuft 
of jetty hairs that forms so conspicuous a decoration of the 
stoat. . 

The weasel is specially dreaded by rats and mice, because 
there is no hole through which either of these animals can 
pass which will not quite as readily suffer the passage of the 
weasel; and as the weasel is most determined and pertina- 
cious in pursuit, it seldom happens that rats or mice escape 
when their little foe has set itself fairly on their track. 

Not only does the weasel pursue its prey through the 
ramifications of the burrows, but it possesses in a very large 
degree the faculty of hunting by scent, and is capable of 
following its prey through all its windings, even though it 
should not come within sight until the termination of the 
chase. I^ will even cross water in the chase of its prey. 
"When it has at last reached its victim, it leaps upon the de- 
voted creature, and endeavors to fix its teeth in the back 
of the neck, where it retains its deadly hold in spite of every 
struggle on the part of the wounded animal. If the attack 
be rightly made, and the animal be a small one, it can drive 
its teeth into the brain, and cause instantaneous insensibility. 
The gamekeeper has some reason for his dislike to the 
weasel, as it is very fond of eggs and young birds of all 
kinds, and is too prone to robe the nests of eggs or young. 
It is said that an egg which has been broken by a weasel 
can always be recognized by the peculiar mode which the 
little creature employs for the purpose. Instead of breaking 
the egg to pieces, or biting a large hole in the shell, the 
weasel contents itself with making quite a small aperture 
at one end, through which it abstracts the liquid contents. 

So determined a poacher is the weasel that it has been 
seen to capture even full-grown birds. A weasel has been 
seen to leap from the ground into the midst of a covey of 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 401 

partridges, just as they were rising on the wing, and to 
bring one of them to the earth. When the spectator of this 
curious occurrence reached the spot, he found the weasel in 
the act of devouring the bird, which it had already killed 
This adventure took place about the end of the month of 
October. The birds were more than two feet from the 
ground when the attack was made upon them. 

Another weasel was seen to capture and kill a rook in a 
somewhaf similar manner. The rooks had discovered the 
weasel in a field, and after their custom on such occasions, 
had gathered round it, and commenced mobbing it. Sud- 
denly, just as one of the rooks made a lower stoop than usual, 
the weasel leaped at its tormentor and dashed it to the 
ground. The dissonant cries of the rooks as they scolded 
the weasel attracted the attention of a horseman who was 
passing by, who arrived at the spot just as the bird had been 
killed. It lay on the ground dead, from a wound in its neck; 
its murderer having taken shelter in a neighboring hedge. 
As soon, however, as the horseman withdrew, the weasel 
emerged from its hiding-place and dragged the dead rook 
imder the shelter of the bushes. 

At all times the weasels are'sufificiently precarious in their 
temper, and extremely apt to take offence; but when a mother 
weasel imagines that her little ones are likely to be endan- 
gered by man or beast, she becomes a really dangerous op- 
ponent. Even so small an animal is capable of inflicting a 
very severe bite, and when she is urged by the desperate 
courage which is implanted in the breast of every mother, 
is not unlikely to succeed in her object before she is repelled. 
Moreover, she does not trust to her sole efforts, but sum- 
mons to her assistance the inhabitants of the same little com- 
munity, and with their aid will drive away an unarmed man 
from the neighborhood of their habitations. Several such 
instances are on record, in one of which a powerful man was 
so fatigued with his exertions in keeping off his assailants, 
that he would soon have sunk under their united attacks had 
he not been rescued by the timely assistance of a horseman 
who happened to pass near the spot, and who came to the 
rescue with his whip. Urged by their bloodthirsty instinct, 



402 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

the weasels all directed their efforts to the throat, ana made 
their attacks in such rapid succession that their opponent 
was solely occupied in tearing away the active little creatures 
and flinging them on the ground, without being permitted 
the necessary leisure for killing or maiming his pertinacious 
antagonists. 

The fur of the weasel is sometimes powerfully influenced 
by the effect of the severe cold, and has been known to be- 
come nearly white during a sharp and protracted frost. It 
is worthy of notice that, in such cases, the tip of the tail 
does not partake of the general change of tint, but retains 
its bright red hue, precisely as the tail of the ermine retains 
its jetty blackness while the remainder of the fur is either 
white or cream-colored. Mr. Bell remarks that he has seen 
a weasel which had retained its wintry whiteness in two spots 
on each side of the nose, although the remainder of the fur 
had returned to its usual reddish hue during the summer 
months. This specimen was captured in the extreme north 
of Scotland. While clad in the white garments of winter, 
in which state it is frequently found in Siberia, it is the 
animal which was called Mustela nivalis, or snowy Weasel, 
by Linnseus. It is rather variable in tint, independently of 
the influence of climate; some individuals being less brightly 
tinged with red than others, while occasional specimens are 
found in which the fur is of an exceedingly dark brown. 

To persons who have had but little experience in the 
ha'bits of wild animals, it is generally a matter of some sur- 
prise that the celebrated Ermine fur, which is in such general 
favor, should be produced by one of those very animals 
which we are popularly accustomed to rank among "vermin," 
and to exterminate in every possible way. Yet so it is. The 
highly-prized ermine and the much-detested stoat are, in 
fact, one and the same animal, the difference in the color of 
their coats being solely caused by the larger or smaller pro- 
portion of heat to which they have been subjected. 

In the summer time, the fur of the stoat — by which name 
the animal will be designated, whether it be wearing its 
winter or summer dress, — is not unlike that of the weasel, 
although the dark parts of the fur. are not so ruddy, nor the 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 403 

light I'Ortions of so pure a white, as in that animal. The 
toes a-id the edges of the ears are also white. 

The change of color which takes place during the colder 
months of the year is now ascertained, with tolerable ac- 
curacy, to be caused by an actual whitening of the fur, and 
not by the gradual substitution of white for dark hairs, as 
was for some time supposed to be the case. 

The hairs are not entirely white, even in their most com- 
pletely blanched state, but partake of a very delicate cream- 
yellow, especiall}'^ upon the under portions, while the slightly 
bushy tip of the tail remains in its original black tinting, 
and presents a singular contrast to the remainder of the fur. 
In these comparatively temperate latitudes, the stoat is never 
sufficiently blanched to render its fur of any commercial 
value, and the hair appears to be longer, thicker, and whiter 
in proportion to the degree of latitude in which the animal 
has bee^n taken. As may be supposed, from the extreme 
delicacy of the skin in its wintry whiteness, the capture of 
the stoat for the purpose of obtaining its fur is a matter of 
no small difficulty. The traps whach are used for the pur- 
pose . of destroying the stoat arc formed so as to kill the 
animal by a sudden blow, without wounding the skin; and 
many of the beautiful little creatures are taken in ordinary 
snares. 

The object of the whitened fur of the stoat is popularly 
supposed to 'be for the purpose of enabling the animal to 
elude its enemies by its similarity to the snow-covered 
ground on which it walks, or to permit it to creep unseen 
upon its prey. It seems, however, that many animals partake 
of the same tinting, some of which, such as the polar bear, 
are so powerful, that they need no such defense against 
enemies, and so active in the pursuit of the animals on 
which they feed, that their success in obtaining food seems 
to depend but little upon color. The Arctic fox, which has 
already been mentioned, and the lemming, which will be 
recorded in a future page, are examples of this curious 
mutation of color. 

Putting aside for the present the mode in which the fur 
changes its color, the real object of the change appears to 



404 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

be for the purpose of defending the wearer against the 
intense colds which reign in those northern regions, and 
which, by a beautiful provision, are obliged to work the 
very change of color which is the best defence against their 
powers. It is well known that black substances radiate heat 
more effectually than objects which are bright and polished. 
This fact is popularly shown in the bright teapots with 
which we are so familiar, and which are known, by practical 
experience, to retain the heat for a much longer period 
than if their surface had been roughened or blackened. 

The reader will not fail to remark a certain coincidence 
between the snowy hairs that deck the frosty brows of old 
age with a reverend crown and the white fur that adds 
such beauty to the frost-beset stoat. It may be that the 
energies of the animal are forced, by the necessity which 
exists for resisting the extreemly low temperature of those 
icy regions, to concentrate themselves upon the vital organs, 
and are unable to spare a sufficiency of blood to form the 
coloring matter that tinges the hair. There is evidently an 
analogy between the chilly feeling that always accompanies 
old age and the frosty climate that causes the stoat's fur 
to whiten. 

It is well known that examples of albinos occur in almost 
every kind of quadruped and bird, and it seems probable that 
the deprivation of color is in very many cases owing to the 
weak constitution of the individual. One of these albinos 
was a bird, which was caught and tamed, and although it 
was of a cream color when it was captured, yet assumed the 
usual dark plumage of the species at the first moulting 
season that occurred after its capture. As the bird also 
appeared to be much more healthy and lively than when it 
was clad in white feathers, it seems likely that the albino 
state may have been caused by weakness of constitution. 

It is clear that, whatever may be the immediate cause of 
the whitening of the hair, the change of tint is caused by the 
loss of the coloring matter which tinges the hair, and that 
there must be some connection between the frost-whitened 
stoat, and the abnormal whiteness of various albinos. 

Where the lowest temperature is considerably above that 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 405 

of the orinary wintry degrees, the stoat is very uncertain in 
its change of fur, and seems to yield to or to resist the 
effects of the cold weather according to the individuality 
of the particular animal. 

In the autumn, when the stoat is beginning to assume its 
wintry dress, and in the spring, when it is beginning to lose 
the snowy mantle of the wintry months, the fur is generally 
found to be marked with irregular patches of dark and 
white spots, the sides of the face appearing to be especially 
variable in this respect. Sometimes the animal resists the 
coldest winters, and retains its dark fur throughout the 
severest weather, and it sometimes happens that a stoat will 
change its fur even though the winter should be particularly 
mild. 

As, in the former of these examples, the weather is said 
to have been extremely wet, it may be presumed that the 
moisture of the atmosphere and ground may have some 
connection with the whitening of the hair. On account of 
the better radiating powers of dark substances, the dew 
or general moisture is always found to be deposited in 
greater quantity on dark or dull, than on white or polished 
substances. Any one may easily prove this fact, by watching 
the effects of the dew on a white and a red rose growing 
in close proximity to each other. 

The stoat is considerably larger than the weasel, measur- 
ing rather more than fourteen inches in total length, of which 
the tail occupies rather more than four inches. There is, 
however, considerable difference in the size of various indi- 
viduals. 

It is a most determined hunter, pursuing its game with 
such pertinacious skill that it very seldom permits its in- 
tended prey' to escape. 

Although tolerably swift of foot, it is entirely unable 
to cope with the great speed of the hare, an animal which 
frequently falls a victim to the stoat. Yet it is enabled, by 
its great delicacy of scent and the singular endurance of its 
frame, to run down any hare on whose track it may have 
set itself, in spite of the long legs and wonderful speed 
of its prey. When pursued by a stoat, the hare does not 
t^eem to put forward its strength as it does when it is fol- 



I 



406 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

lowed by dogs, but as soon as it discovers the nature of its 
pursuer, seems to lose all energy, and hops lazily along as 
if its faculties were benumbed by some powerful agency. 
This strange lassitude, in whatever manner it may be pro- 
duced, is of great service to the stoat, in enabling it to 
secure an animal which might in a very few minutes place 
itself beyond the reach of danger, by running in a straight 
line. 

Birds' nests of all kinds are plundered by this incorrigible 
poacher, for its quick eye and keen nose enable it to discover 
a nest, be it ever so carefully hidden; its agile limbs and 
sharp claws give it the power of climbing any tree-trunk, 
and of clinging to any branch which will bear the weight 
of a nest and eggs; while its lithe and serpent-like body 
enables it to insinuate itself into any crevice that is sufiti- 
ciently large to afiford ingress and egress to the parent birds. 
The pheasant and partridge are said to be sad sufferers from 
the stoat, which is mercilessly slain by the keeper with 
the aid of traps or gun, the former being the preferable 
mode of destroying "vermin." The traps in which stoats 
are to be caught are most ingeniously placed in certain 
tempting "runs" to which the stoat, being a dark-loving 
animal, is sure to be attracted. For several days the baits 
are laid on the traps, which are left unset, so that the stoats 
find out the locality, and think that they have fallen upon a 
most hospitable ground. When they have accustomed them- 
selves to eat the baits with impunity, the keeper sets the 
traps, and immolates the hapless visitants. 

Although the stoat is so formidable an enemy to rats t 
and mice, and destroys annually such numbers of these 
destructive animals, it sometimes happens that the pre- 
daceous animal finds its intended prey to be more than its 
match, and is forced ignominiously to yield the contest. One - 
of these animals w^as seen in chase of a rat, which it was ^ 
following by scent, and at a great pace. After a while, the 
stoat overtook the rat, and would have sprung upon her, 
had not its purpose been anticipated by a sudden attack from 
the rat, which turned to bay, and fiercely flung herself with 
open jaws on her pursuer. The stoat was so startled at 



II 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 407 

so unexpected a proceeding, that it fairly turned tail and 
ran away. The rat now took up the pursuit, and chased 
the stoat with such furious energy that she drove her enemy 
far from the place. It is probably that the rat had a young 
family at hand, and was urged to this curious display of 
courage by the force of her maternal feelings. 

The stoat is, like the weasel, possessed of a powerful and 
exceedingly unpleasant odor; yet even this disagreeable ac- 
companiment does not always suffice to preserve it from 
being killed and eaten by predaceous animals more powerful 
than itself. Even so fastidious an animal as the domestic 
cat has been known to capture a stoat, to eat part of it 
herself, and to distribute the remainder to her kittens, who 
partook of the powerfully scented food without manifesting 
any reluctance. 

THE WOLVERINE. 

The wolverene, more popularly known by the name of the 
glutton, has earned for itself a world-wide reputation for 
ferocity, and has given occasion to some of the older writers 
on natural history to indulge in the most unshackled liberty 
of description. 

Voracious it certainly is, having been known to con- 
sume thirteen pounds of meat in a single day, and it is 
probable that if the animal had been living in a wild state 
it could have eaten even a larger amount of food. It was 
said by the older naturalists to prey upon deer, which it 
killed by cunningly dropping on the ground a heap of the 
moss on which the deer feeds, and then climbing upon a 
branch v/hich overhung the spot. As soon as the deer passed 
beneath the tree, the glutton was said to leap upon its 
shoulders, and to cling there until it had brought the deer 
to the ground. This and similar tales, however, rest on 
no good foundation. 

It is known that the glutton feeds largely on the smaller 
quadrupeds, and that it is a most determined foe to the 
beaver in the summer months. During the winter it has 
little chance of catching a beaver, for the animals are quietly 



408 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

ensconced in their home, and their houses are rendered so 
strong by the intense cold that the glutton is unable to 
break through their ice-hardened walls. 

The wolverene is an inhabitant of Northern x^merica, 
Siberia, and of a great part of Northern Europe. It was 
once thought that the glutton and the wolverene were dis- | 
tinct animals, but it is now ascertained that they both be- 
long to the same species. 

■ The general aspect of this animal is not unlike that of 
a young bear, and probably, on that account it was placed 
by Linnaeus among the bears under the title of Ursus luscus. 
The general color of the wolverene is a brownish-black; 
the muzzle is black as far as the eyebrows, and the space 
between the eyes of a browner hue. In some specimens, 
a few white spots are scattered upon the under jaw. The 
sides of the body are washed with a tint of a warmer hue. 
The paws are quite black, and the contrast between the jetty 
fur of the feet and the almost ivory whitenes of the claws 
is extremely curious. These white claws are much esteemed 
among the natives for the purpose of being manufactured 
into certain feminine adornments. 

The paws are very large in proportion to the size of the 
animal, and it is supposed that this modification of structure 
is intended to enable the wolverene to pass in safety over 
the surface of the snow. Indeed, the feet are so large that 
the marks which they leave on the snow are often mis- 
taken for the footprints of a bear. As the tracks of the 
wolverene are often mixed with those of the bear, it is evi- 
dent that the latter animal must often fall a prey to the 
former during the winter months. When the animal which 
it kills is too large to form a single meal, the wolverene 
is in the habit of carrying away the remains, and of con- 
cealing them in some secure hiding place, in readiness for , 
a second repast. 

The eyes of the wolverene are small, and of a dark brown, 
and are not remarkable for their brilliancy. 

In its native country, the animal is detested by the hunt-^ 
ejs and trappers, whether they belong to Europe or America., 
For the wolverene is in the habit of following the sable- 
hunters on their rounds, and of detaching the baits from the 



♦I 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



409 



traps, thereby rendering the whole circuit useless. If a 
sable or marten should happen to be entrapped, the wol- 
verene does not eat the dead animal, but tears it out of the 
trap and carries it away. In America, it is specially ob- 
noxious to the hunters, because its fine sense of smell 
enables it to discover the storehouses of provisions — ''caches,'' 
as they are technically termed — which the provident hunters 
lay by in order to fall back upon in case of bad success. 
If it should unfortunately discover one of these repositories, 
it sets itself determinately to work, tears away all obstacles, 
and does extreme damage to the provisions, by eating all 
the meat, and scattering on every side all the vegetable food. 

In captivity, its greatest dainty is said to be the body 
of a cat, for which strange diet it will leave every other 
kind of food. 

The w^olverene is not a very prolific animal, as it seldom 
produces more than two at a birth. The maternal resi- 
dence is generally placed in the crevice of a rock, or in some 
secluded situation, and the young wolverenes make their 
appearance about May. 




The Trapper's Wagon Outfit used where a line of 
Traps covers many miles 



410 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



THE SKUNK 

The skunk resembles the badgers in being nearly planti- 
grade, and having the anterior claws long and adapted for 
digging. There is a similarity also in the distribution of the 
colors, the dark shades forming the ground, and the light 
ones the markings. The hair of the body is long, and still 
longer on the tail, which being carried erect, has a plume- 




like appearance. Some of the species burrow in the ground, 
and others live in the fissures of rocks, several of them often 
associating together. They subsist chiefly on birds' eggs, 
insects, small quadrupeds, and poultry; they also add frogs, 
mice, and lizards to their bill of fare when opportunity offers. 
Their size is about that of the badger. They move slowly, 
and seldom attempt to escape from man by flight. The form 
is elegant, and the colors, disposed in longitudinal bands, 
are strikingly contrasted. These circumstances, with the 
long, flowing hair, would give these animals a beautiful ap- 
pearance, were not all agreeable associations rendered im- 
possible by their abominable stench. The great distinction 
of the genus is the possession of two glands beneath the 
anus, from which they eject, to a considerable distance, a 
liquid possessing the revolting odor of the polecat, with a 
suffocating and overpowering smell of garlic. This is alike 
to man and animals. Dogs retreat from this abominable 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



411 



liquid, vomiting and rolling themselves, as if in agony, on 
the earth, and it is said even cattle bellow with distress 
when the air is strongly impregnated with it. A skunk 
will taint the atmosphere for half a mile in every direction, 
and clothes infested by the liquid are ruined, as they never 
part with, the disgusting smell. This gift is the animal's 
shield and buckler, and nature, in her infinitely diversified 
arts of defense, appears nowhere — not in trenchent teeth, 
or rending claws; not in overpowering strength, or ferocity. 




Some Good Work with Bait Scent. 

or even deadly venom — to have provided any creature with 
more effective protection than is bestow^ed by this syringe 
upon the skunk. 

The Enfant du diable has a body about seventeen inches 
long, with a tail, including the long hair, twelve inches. The 
head is small, the forehead rounded, the body long, flesny, 
and widening towards the hips; fur long and coarse, with 
long, glossy hairs intermixed; eyes small, ears short and. 



412 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



rounded; feet broad, and nails of the fore-feet strong, curv 
and sharp. The two anal glands are situated on each side 
of the recturn; the sack is supposed to contain about three 
drams of the offensive liquid. When this is ejected, the tail 
is carried forward and nearly laid on the back. An experi- 
enced person, perceiving this sign of preparation, is always 
careful to put himself instantly out of shooting distance. It 
is said that the scent is much stronger if the ejection takes 
place when the animal is irritated, and that it is also stronger 
at night than in the day-time. At night the liquid has a 
luminous appearance, and a stream of it has been compared 
to a stream of phosphoric light. It possesses a very acrid 
quality, and dogs and persons into whose ej^es it has been 
thrown have been rendered blind. , 

The species vary much in the markings; indeed, as in the 
case of striped grasses, it is difficult to find two precisely 
alike. In general, the color is a blackish brown, with a nar- 
row stripe of yellowish white along the nose to the head; 
a large patch of white on the nape of the neck, and extending 
downward in a stripe on each side of the back, and a stripe 
of white on each side of the tail for three-fourths of its 
length. The tail is often tipped with white. But as we have 
said, these markings are variously modified. It is believed 
that when both parents are alike in color and markings, the 
young ones are similarly colored; but if the parents are dis- 
similar, the offspring is diversified. 

The skunk is a prolific animal, bringing forth from four 
to eight at a birth. Sometimes as many as fifteen skunks 
have been found in one burrow. During the winter, in the 
cold parts of the country, these animals keep close in their 
burrows, in a dozing but not torpid state. At the south, they 
are active the year round. They are cleanly in their habits, 
and never suffer themselves to be soiled by their own effluvia 
any more than the rattlesnake by his own venom. This is 
a common animal in nearly all the Atlantic States; depending 
upon its peculiar battery for defense, it is often seen walking 
slowly along, its tail erect, with an air of conscious security 
or impudent defiance, and if it perceives a man it does not 
always take the trouble to get out of his way; the man is 
most likely to beat a retreat; indeed, a brave man is quite 



^1 

ed || 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 413 

as likely to run from a skunk as a lion. The fetid liquid is 
ejected in small streams, sometimes to the distance of four- 
teen feet, and usually with great accuracy of aim. As we 
have stated, the odor is stronger at night than during the 
day. 




Striped or spotted skunks in America are different from 
those in Europe. They are thicker and of a great many 
colors; not all alike, but each differing from another in a 
particular color. They smell like a fox, but ten times strong- 
er. When a dog encounters them they make urine, and he 
will not be sweet again in a fortnight or more. The Indians 
love to eat their flesh, which has no manner of ill smell when 
the bladder is out. They are easily brought up tame. 

When one of them is attacked by a dog, to appear formid- 
able it so changes its usual form, by bristling up its hairs and 
contracting its length into a round form, that it makes a 
very terrible appearance. This menacing behavior, however, 
insufficient to deter its enemy, is seconded by a repulse far 
more prevailing; for from secret duct it emits such fetid 
effluviums, that the atmosphere for a large space round shall 
be so infected with them that men and other animals are 
impatient till they are quit of it. The stench is insupportable 
to some dogs, and necessitates them to let their game escape; 
others, by thrusting their noses into the earth, renew their 
attacks till t'hey have killed it; but rarely care to have more 
to do with such noisome game, which for four or five hours 
distracts them. The Indians, notwithstanding, esteem their 
flesh a dainty; of which I have eaten and found it tasted well. 
I have known them brought up young, made domestic, and 
prove tame and very active, without exercising that faculty 
which fear and self-preservation perhaps only prompts them 



414 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

to. They hide themselves in hollow trees and rocks. Their J 
food is insects and wild fruit. 

A dead skunk, thrown over the stockades of a trading- 
post produced instant nausea in several women in a house 
with closed doors upward of a hundred yards distant. The 
odor has some resem'blance to that of garlic, although much 
more disagreeable. One may, however, soon become famil- 
iarized with it; for, notwithstanding the disgust it produces 
at first, I have managed to skin a couple of recent specimens 
by recurring to the task at intervals. When care is taken 
not to soil the carcass with any of the strong-smelling fluid, 
the meat is considered by the natives to be excellent food. 

Inhaling skunk's odor has been prescribed with good 
effect in asthmatic affections. 



TRAPPING THE SKUNK 

The skunk is found in Mexico, almost throughout the 
United States and in the British possessions. By many he 
is called the polecat, but the name is erroneous. In spite 
of the unfortunate odor which causes man. and -even beasts 
to avoid him, the skunk is really a pretty animal. His 
fur is long and glossy ("all black, with more white than 
black"), and he has a bushy tail, which nearly covers his 
back when raised and turned forward. He is a scavenger, 
and eats much decomposed matter; he has a dainty appetite 
besides, though, and preys on poultry and small animals. 
Turtle eggs are on his bill of fare, and the little round tracks 
of his chubby feet are often seen in the sand where he has 
searched for them. Crickets and insects, however, form 
the greater portion of his diet. Some say that the skunk 
never digs a hole for himself, but drives the woodchuck from 
his house with his usual defense. Though true in a measure, 
the skunk is a persevering digger, often digging out his own 
burrows, and unearthing mice, beetles, etc. The skunk 
leaves his burrow soon after sunset; their holes are found 
in fields, under fences and stone walls, and also in ledges, 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 415 

and in the edge of woods. He lives only in fear of dogs, 
and the great horned owl, which feeds upon his flesh, seiz- 
ing him at night with an iron grip. A skunk caught in a 
snare, or drowned when taken in a box trap, is scentless, 
tinless having quarreled with his neighbors just before cap- 
ture. The surest way of taking them is to set a No. 1 or 
No. 2 steel trap in their hole; scoop out a hollow to place 
the trap in, cover the chain and spring with soil and leaves, 
and stake* the chain its full length away from the burrow. 
If the weather is very cold, the dirt will freeze, and prevent 
the trap from springing. The animal, when trapped, will 
dig trp the dirt about the mouth of his hole, but keep it open 
to retreat in as far as the chain will allow. When a skunk 
is first seen in a trap, his large tail is raised over his 
back, and his head is placed between the fore legs; although 
his eyes are apparently hidden, he keeps a perfect watch of 
the trapper's movements. It is never advisable to shoot 
a skunk in the head, for, if blown to atoms, the body retains 
its odor. He can be secured as follows: 

Slip a noose over his head, with a long pole, making no 
sudden movements, and run a string connecting with the 
snare over the limb of a tree, gradually tightening it until 
the skunk's hind feet are clear of the ground. Make the 
cord fast to an}^ convenient object, and walk cautiously 
away. When the skunk is dead, you can string him to your 
belt without fear of his scent. 

In fields it is sometimes necessary to strangle them 
with a noose attached to a long pole, at arm's length. It 
can be done successfully, though very tiring to the arms. 
Should a skunk be scented, sink it in a cold, swift-run- 
ning stream for several, days, and the greenish liquid from 
which the odor arises will become chilled, and float in 
drops on the surface of the water, leaving the fur but 
slightly scented. If one is quick, he can take him una- 
wares, and snatch a trapped skunk upward by the tail, 
killing him by a blow on the occipital bone. We have often 
done so when surroundings would admit. A long chain 
should invariably be used, so as to give the trapper free 
action in suspending the skunk by the tail. 



416 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



POLECAT OR WEASEL 

This genus includes the weasels, with the ermine or 
stoat, as well as the polecat or fitchet, and the ferret; all 
small, but distinguished for their long, flexible bodies, and 
their destructive habits, surpassing even the cats in their 
instinct for killing other animals. All are noted for a secre- 
tion in an anal pouch, which, when they are irritated or 
frightened, diffuses a more or less offensive odor. They 
trace their prey by scent, take to the water readily, as they 
have semi-palmated feet, and kill by inflicting a wound in 
the neck. The female is commonly much smaller than the 
male. j 

This animal is stouter in proportion than either the com- [ 
mon weasel or the ermine, and the head is broader; the 
nose rather pointed; ears round, and not conspicuous; neck* 
comparatively short; tail inclining to bushy, and rather* 
more than a third of the length of the body and head. 
There are two kinds of fur in this species — the short is 
fulvous and woolly, the long is black, brownish black, and 
shining. A brown color mingled with yellow, varying ac- 
cording to the proportions of these two sorts of fur in the 
individual, is the result. There are some white marks about 
the mouth and ears, and the parts which are darkest in 
color are the head, tail and feet. The length of the head 
and body is, seventeen inches. The anal sack, situated 
beneath the extremity of the rectum, contains a yellowish 
fetid substance of the consistence of thick cream, which 
has an odor inferior in intensity to that of the skunk, but 
still proverbial for its offensive quality. 

It is most destructive to the poultry-yard and the pre- 
serve; its appetite for slaughter, which seems never to be 
satiated as long as any living thing remains within its reach, 
rendering it a most ruinous neighbor to those who rear fowls 
or keep up a head of game. Not only the young birds fall 
victims to it, but the parents also; nor are even geese 
or turkeys safe. We have heard an instance of a hen and 
a whole brood of chickens being killed by one of these 
destroyers in a single night, and upon another occasion, 
seven or eight nearly full-grown turkeys. The brain and 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 417 

the blood seem to be the choicest portions. The bodies 
of the dead are carried off to its haunts, which are generally 
in some corps or wood near a farm, or in the heart of a 
preserve, whence it issues on its deadly errand in the even- 
ing, generally soon after sunset, or when it grows dusk. 

No "vermin" is placed with more satisfaction upon "the 
Keeper's Tree," for none commits more havoc, if so much, 
among the game. Beginning with the egg, it persecutes 
all the game birds through every period of life, and is a 
far more determined enemy than the stoat itself to the 
hare and rabbit-warren. The fox, as is well known, will 
do much to keep down the birds, rabbits and hares; but 
even this wily and powerful invader is not so mischievous 
as the species of which we are treating. Where a fox will 
kill one, a weasel will immolate ten, to say nothing of 
eggs; no vertel)rated animal seems to come amiss to its 
murderous nature. Bewick relates that during a severe storm, 
a foumart was traced in the snow from the side of a rivulet 
to its hole at some distance from it. As it was observed to 
have made frequent trips, and as other marks were to be 
seen in the snow which could not easily be accounted for, 
it was thought a matter worthy of great attention. .Its 
hole was accordingly examined, and live eels were dis- 
covered to be the fruit of its nocturnal excursions. The 
marks in the snow were made by the motion of the eels 
in the quadruped's mouth. In Loudon's Magazine is an 
account of a female polecoat that was hunted to her nest, 
which held five young ones in a comfortable bed of withered 
grass. From a side hole the narrator picked out forty large 
frogs and two toads alive, but capable of sprawling only, 
for the old polecat had stricken them all with palsy by a 
bite through the brain of each! Whether she had put them 
in this condition as a pickle, to preserve them for future 
use, is not known. At all events, the fact suggests the 
hideously destructive nature of these creatures. The nest 
of this species is generally made in some rabbit-iburrow, 
in the crevice of a rock, or where the tangled herbage and 
brushwood overgrow loose heaps of stones; there the female 
drops from four to six young in May, or early in June. 
The courage of the polecat is great, and none of the tribe 



418 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



denominated by game-keepers ''vermin" so severely tries 
the "pluck" of a terrier; for its flexibility, unless seized 
in the right place and shaken to death at once, enables 
it to turn and fasten upon the nose of the dog, so as lO 
make the latter not unfrequently desist from the attack. 
There is good evidence that the polecat will breed with the 
ferret. Inferior to the fur of the sable or marten, that of 
the polecat is nevertheless esteemed, and a considerable 
exportation of the skins annually takes place from the north 
of Europe, under the name of Fitch. 




" Twixt Woods and Waters." 
(Where Prime Furs are Found.) 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



419 



THE OPOSSUM 

There are very few of the marsupiated animals which 
are more remarkable for their form, their habits, or their 
character, than the Opossums of America. They are nearly 
all admirable climbers, and are assisted in their scansorial 




Opossum 



efforts by their long, prehensile tails, which are covered with 
scales, through the interstices of which a few short black 
hairs protrude. The hinder feet are also well adapted for 
clmbing, as the thumb is opposable to the other toes, so 
that. the animal is able to grasp the branch of a tree with 
considerable force, and to suspend its whole body, together 
with the additional weight of its prey or its young. 

The Virginian, or common opossum, is, as its name im- 
plies, a native of Virginia, as well as of many other portions 
of the United States of America. In size it equals a toler- 
able large cat, being rather more than three feet in total 
length, the head and body measuring twenty-two inches 
and the tail fifteen. The color of this animal is a grayish- 
white, slightly tinged with yellow, and diversified by occa- 
sional long hairs that are white towards their base, but of 
a brownish hue towards their points. These brown-tipped 



The Trapper's Guide-'Hints for, etc 



f I'M 

e 




Secrets of Trapping, Aids, etc* 

420 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 421 

hairs are extremely prevalent upon the limbs, which are 
almost wholly of the brown hue, which also surrounds the 
eye to some extent. The under fur is comparativeh- soft and 
woolly, but the general character of the fur is harsh and 
coarse. The scaly portion of the tail is white. 

It is a voracious and destructive animal, prowling about 
during the hours of darkness, and prying into every nook 
and comer in hope of finding something that may satisfy 
the cravings of imperious hunger. Young birds, eggs, the 
smaller quadrupeds, such as young rabbits, which it eats 
by the brood at a time, cotton rats, and mice, reptiles of 
various kinds, and insects, fall victims to the appetite of the 
Virginian Opossum, which is often not content with the food 
it finds in the open forests, but must needs insinuate itself 
into the poultry-yard, and make a meal on the fowls and their 
eggs. When it has once determined on making such a raid, 
it can hardly be baffled in its endeavors by an\- defences 
except those which consist of stout walls and closely-fitting 
doors; for it can climb over any ordinary wall, or thrust 
itself through any fence, so that there is but little chance 
of preventing it from making good its entrance into the 
precincts of the farm-yard. 

Besides the varied animal diet in which the opossum 
indulges, it also eats vegetable substances, committing as 
much havoc among plantations and fruit-trees as among 
rabbits and poultry. It 'is very fond of niaize, procuring 
the coveted food by climbing the tall stems, or b}' biting them 
across and breaking them down. It also eats acorns, beech- 
nuts, chestnuts, and wild berries, while its fondness for the 
fruit of the "persimmon" tree is almost proverbial. While 
feeding on these fruits it has been seen hanging by its tail, 
or its hinder paws, gathering the "persimmons" with its fore- 
paws, and eating them while thus suspended. It also feeds 
on various roots, which it digs out of the ground with ease. 

Its gait is usually slow and awkward, but w^hen pursued 
it runs with considerable speed, though in a sufficiently 
clumsy fashion, caused by its habit of using the limbs of the 
right and left side simultaneously in a kind of amble. As, 
moreover, the creature is plantigrade in its walk, it may be 
imagined to be anything but elegant in its mode of progress 



Favorite Traps and Their Uses. 




'The Otter or Beaver trap with detachable Clutch. 




The Bear trap, "offset and jaws' 




The Muskrat Trap-This style and size used for. all small animals 

by old trappers. 

(It is used more than any other style or size.) 

422 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 423 

upon the ground. Although it is such an adept at "'possum- 
ing," or feigning death, it does not put this ruse in practice 
until it has used every endeavor to elude its pursuers, and 
linds it has no possibility of escape. It runs sulkily and 
sneakingly forward, looking on every side for some con- 
venient shelter, and seizing the first opportunity of slipping 
under cover. 

If chafed by a dog, it takes at once to a tree, and unless 
the dog be accompanied by its master, only climbs to a con- 
venient resting-place, above the limit of the dog's leaping 
powers, and there sits quietly, permitting the dog to bark 
itself hoarse, without troubling itself any further about so 
insignificant an enemy. If. however, as is generally the 
case, the dog be accompanied by human hunters, the unfor- 
tunate opossum has but little chance of safety. For as soon 
as the creature is "treed," the quick, sharp bark of the dog 
conveys to its master the welcome tidings, and he immedi- 
ately runs towards the point from whence proceeds the well- 
known voice of his dog. 

Having reached the position of the enemy, he ascends 
the tree in chase of the opossum, which begins to climb 
towards the highest branches, followed by its pursuing foe. 
At last it gains the very extremity of some branch, and 
holds on with tail and claws, while the man endeavors to 
dislodge it by shaking violently the bough to which it clings. 
For a time it retains its hold, but is soon wearied by the 
constant exertion, and falls heavily to the ground, where 
it is seized and despatched by the expectant dogs. 

The negroes are especially fond of this sport, and look 
eagerly forward to the close of the day when they have been 
promised a '"possum-hunt," as a reward for good conduct. 
Not only do they very thoroughly enjoy the moonlight 
sport, with its exciting concomitants, but promise themselves 
a further gratification, after their return home, in eating the 
opossums which have fallen victims to their skill. The 
flesh of the opossum is white when cooked, and is considered 
to be remarkably good, especially when the animal is killed 
in autumn, for at that time of the year it is extremely fat. 

Although, from the great accession of fat in the autumn 
months, it might be thought a hibernating animal, it is found 



424 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE. 

roaming the woods in search of food even in the coldest 
night of winter. Still, the large amount of fat with which 
the body is loaded is calculated to give the animal greater 
powers of resisting hunger and the severity of the weather 
than would otherwise have been the case, and enables it 
to thrive upon the comparatively small amount of food which 
it can obtain during the season of intense cold. 

It is not a gregarious animal, and even the members of 
the same family spread themselves widely apart when they 
are in the open air. 

The opossum, although so cunning in many respects, is 
singularly simple in others. There is hardly any animal 
which is so easily captured, for it will walk into the rudest 
of traps, and permit itself to be ensnared by a device at 
which a rat would look with contempt. Strange mixture of 
craft and dullness; and yet one which is commonly found 
in all creatures, whether men or animals, that only possess 
cunning and no observance at all. For there are none so 
prone to entangle themselves in difficulties as the over-artful. 
They must needs travel through crooked by-ways, instead 
of following the open road, and so blunder themselves stu- 
pidly and sinuously into needless peril, from which their 
craftiness sometimes extricates them, it is true, but not with- 
out much anxiety and apprehension. 

When captured it is easily tamed, and falls into the habit 
of domestication with great ease. It is, however, not very 
agreeable as a domestic companion, as it is gifted with a 
powerful and very unpleasant odor, which emanates from 
its person with great force, whenever the animal is irritated 
or excited. 

The nest of the opossum is always made in some pro- 
tected situation, such as the hollow of a fallen or standing 
tree, or under the shelter of some old projecting roots. In 
forming an appropriate receptacle for her young, the opos- 
sum is assisted by her fore-feet, which are well adapted for 
digging. The nest itself is composed of long moss and 
various dried leaves. Sometimes the creature has been 
known to usurp the domicile of some other animal, not with- 
out suspicion of having previously devoured the rightful 
owner. On one occasion a hunter sent a rifle-ball through 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 425 

a squirrel's nest, which was placed at some forty feet from 
the ground, and was surprised to see an oposum fall dead 
on the ground. This creature has also been known to possess 
itself of the warm nest of the Florida rat. 

When the young of the opossum are born, they are trans- 
ferred by the mother to her cradle-pouch, where they remain 
for some weeks. From repeated experiments that have been 
made on this animal, it is found that the transfer is made on 
the fifteenth day after the young have been called into ex- 
istence, and that at that period they only weigh four grains, 
their total length being under an inch, the tail included. 
Their number is from thirteen to fifteen. After they are 
placed in the pouch their growth is wonderfully rapid, for 
in seven days they have gained so much substance as to 
weigh thirty grains; and even at this early period of their 
existence their tails exhibit the prehensile capacity, and are 
often found coiled round each other's bodies. In four 
weeks the little opossums have gained sufficient strength 
to put their heads out of the pouch, and at the end of the 
lifth week they are able to leave it entirely for a short time. 

Very great trouble was required in order to ascertain 
these particulars, as it was found that the opossum was 
in the habit of hiding herself in her den until she had placed 
her young in the pouch, so that it was needful to search the 
cavity for these concealed females, and to watch their pro- 
ceedings by night and day, without intermission. 

There are one or two circumstances in connection with 
this subject that are well worthy of attention. 

The young opossums are not, as has been often asserted, 
mere helpless lumps of animated substances, without sense or 
power of determinate action, but are wonderfully active in 
proportion to their minute size and their undeveloped state. 
If placed upon a table, they can crawl about its surface, and 
are sufficiently hardy to retain life for several hours after 
their removal from the warm cradle in which their tender 
bodies were shielded from harm, and the maternal fount 
which poured a constant stream of nourishment into their 
tiny systems. 

Another singular circumstance is, that when they are 



426 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



first placed in the pouch, thc}^ are blind and deaf, the eyes 
and ears being closed, and not opened until many days have 
elapsed. With partial blindness at the time of birth we are 
all familiar in the persons of kittens, puppies, and other 
little animals, but that the tender young of the Opossum 
should be deaf as well as blind, is truly singular. It appears 
that in the case of the kitten or puppy, the presence of light 
and the action of the atmosphere are needed in order to 
withdraw the obstacles that obstruct the sense of vision.' 
In the young opossum, however, it seems that the action 
of the atmosphere is needed in order to fender the ears 
sensitive to the sounds that are transmitted through its 
mediumship, but that in most cases the little creature re- 
quires the absence of light until the time comes for it to 
open its eyes as well as its ears. 




Animal Reason. 

Who after this is there who'll say 

That animals' sense aren't as good as theirs, 
For by example clear and plain, 

Each does what is right again and again, 
They've senses to think, reflect and plan, 

Things that credit's given only to man. 
They scheme and reason, have likes and fears, 

That comes of experience of many years, 
Who says 'tis instinct blind — alone — 

Has not the reasoning sense they own. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



427 



THE MUSKRAT 



Found only in North America. Its head, neck and legs 
are short, and its thighs hid in its body. Its length is fif- 
teen inches, its tail ten; its color reddish-brown above and 
ashy gray beneath. The fur is short and downy, and was 
formerly much used as a substitute for beaver; it is still 
in demand, and the animal is everywhere more or less an 







The Muskrat. 



object of pursuit. It is endowed with a strong musky smell, 
but not very offensive; the flesh is tolera'ble food. It lives 
along the banks of ponds and rivers, somewhat in the man- 
ner of the beaver, building its winter-houses of mud in a 
conical form, with an entrance under water and a dry 
chamber above. It is a good swimmer though its feet are 
not webbed. In summer it digs burrows along the banks ol 
lakes and streams, forming branched canals many yards in 
extent, and making a nest at the extremity, where the young 
are produced — three litters in a season, and three to five 
at a time. It may be observed that their modes of build- 
ing, burrowing and living vary considerably in different 
localities — a fact no doubt owing to the varying necessities 
of their situation. Their food consists of grasses, roots of 
various kinds, tender shoots of the bulrush, and reed-mace, 
acorns, spice-wood, and sometimes, when dwelling near 
human cultivation, turnips, parsnips and carrots; they also 
occasionally eat mussels. In winter, when hard pressed, 



Secrets of 



ing==Art of Etc. 




Sliding Ring and Chain used to drown trapped Water Animals. 

Traps^for Water and Land Animals 




"The Otter Slide" (at the foot trap is set) 

428 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE . 429 

they sometimes devour each other; when one is wounded 
the rest set to and eat him. 

This is doubtless a dark streak in their character: for the 
rest, they are mostly a gentle folk, pursuing their avocations 
by night in a manner so quiet that they seldom intrude on 
the notice of mankind. They are of a sportive humor, and 
in the mild season, when the lakes and ponds are open, they 
may bd seen — especially if moonlight favors the observation 
— disporting on the surface of the waters, swimming, diving 
and circling, with all the frolicsome humor of children. 
While some thus give themselves up to merriment, others 
are occupied in the graver but not less agreeable task of 
finding their food ahuig the banks. It is said that one o+ 
them, at such a time, seated on a bank, looks exceedingly 
like a ball of earth. It is noticed, too, that in diving they 
make a smart stroke of the tail in tlie water, which seems 
to be an imitation of one of tlie tricks of the beaver. They 
do little damage to man. except in a few cases, when they 
dig up the borders of streams and ditches, yet on account 
of their fur they are objects of ceaseless persecution. A 
multitude of devices are brought into requisition for their 
capture; they are sometimes cau^iht in traps and sometimes 
shot with guns; they are dug out and seized by dogs; the 
Indians spear them in their beds. They are found through- 
out the Atlantic States in more or less abundance, and are 
distributed northward through the British territories to the 
latitude 69° north. In the far Northwestern regions large 
numbers are taken by the Indians, who make the hunting 
of them a part of the business of their lives. 



HOW TO HUNT AND CATCH THE MUSKRAT 

The musquash, or muskrat, as it is often called, is another 
peculiar American animal, which is so well known as scarce- 
ly to require description. It is also very widely distrib- 
uted over the United States, frequenting alike land border- 
ing upon salt and fresh water, choosing sw^amps with dry 



430 . COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

sandy banks, or earth embankments, in which it burrows. 
It is ten or twelve inches long, with a thick-set, arching 
body; head short, but rat-like; and the gnawing or front 
teeth very large, long and powerful. The hind feet are 
very long, and a short web is found only between the 
longest toes; yet the animals are rapid and strong swim- 
mers. The tail of the musquash is compressed vertically, 
that is, it is flat, the edges being above and below. The 
beaver, which the muskrat greatly resembles in its hab- 
its, and which is naturally close akin to it, has a broad, 
horizontally flat tail. Like the beaver, the musquash builds 
his dam-like house in the swamps, ponds and marshes, 
setting the house upon the end of a log, or something 
that will swim, in the event of a flood, "otherwise they 
would be drowned out; and where they are frozen down 
in time of low water, when the flood comes they have to 
abandon the house and go to their holes in the banks, 
or they drown in their houses, being shut in by ice. The 
materials used in building are roots and grass, and mud, 
carried together by mouthfuls and completely packed; pond 
lily tops, where they grow, form a large part of the house. 
They have a nice little chamber above the water, where 
they sleep, with an aperture through which they can dive 
into the water at 3.ny alarm from without; the house on the 
outside has the appearance of a heap of half-rotten manure, 
with some sticks in it. These houses they commence to 
build about the first of October, or when frosty nights 
begin to prevail, and they abandon them when warm weather 
comes again. This house-building is a mutual thing; if there 
were ten houses in a pond, and you should destroy nine of 
them, they would all go the tenth, and there, by carefully 
managing, you might catch the whole. They eat the roots 
of aquatic plants, calamus, pond lilies, etc., and are very 
fond of fresh water shell fish, especially the clam. So far 
as their food goes, they do the farmer little damage. The 
name muskrat is obviously derived from the strong odor 
of musk. "Musquash" is said to be the Indian name, and 
is preferable. I shall now try to tell you how to success- 
fully hunt and trap him. As soon as the ice goes off in 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 431 

the spring, you should commence, as his fur is then at its 
best. 

The muskrat drops his dung on old logs or sticks resting 
on the bank, with one end in the water. When you find 
his "sign" on a log, chop a notch in it and set your trap 
about an inch under w^ter, putting the chain-ring over a 
tally stick or over a stake driven into the log, in such a 
positiort that the muskrat may get into water deep enough 
to drown him. So go along near the marsh in your canoe, 
hunting out these resorts of the muskrat, and set your 
traps as directed. On a moonlight night at this season 
of the year, you may go with your boat or canoe into 
some sly place, and then set up a squeaking noise as much 
like a rat as you can. If any are within hearing they will 
soon make their appearance, and you may take aim at the 
head and shoot. This is a good way to hunt them along 
the edge of drowned land, and in ponds and lakes. An- 
other good plan is to set your trap in two or three inches 
of water, at the places where they crawl ashore to dig for 
roots, and if you place a bit of parsnip, sweet apple, or 
carrot, on the end of a stick just over the trap, you will 
be quite sure of a catch. 

Do not commence hunting too early in the fall; they do 
not bring forth their kittens until midsummer, and about 
the first of September they are but little things with very 
black pelts, and hardly worth the catching. But as soon 
as frosty nights come, and they begin to build their houses, 
you may go to work setting your traps two or three inches 
under water, at the place where they haul up their build- 
ing material. At this season they feed chiefly on aquatic 
plants, and form large beds of loose stuff at their feeding 
places, and you may set your trap in these beds. 

In winter, when the ice has made a bridge over all, go 
to one of their houses, and on the south side make an open- 
ing through the side directly into their chamber, and set 
your trap at the entrance of the dive-hole. Close up the 
opening that you have made, and you will soon catch the 
rat. If there are other houses, destroy all but this one, 
to which the whole colony will come, and you may catch 
them all; or you may have a one-tined spear made of 



'i ' U^^''' 



Niiwlt 







o 
X 



'/, ,;^"^w..^A</ wv .^'a.M-iM^w l^f^ 



432 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 433 

round three-eighths rod, about eighteen inches long, with 
a strong beard near the point. Have this fixed to a han- 
dle, say four feet long. Go very softly up to the south 
side of the house, and drive in your spear in a slanting di- 
rection, a few inches above the ice. You will often transfix 
two at a time. Or you may demolish the house and watch 
the dive-Jiole, spearing the animal when you see his nose 
come up. 

You may use a scent to call the muskrat in the begin- 
ning of the year. There are various things that will do 
it. Perhaps the strongest is found in the female rat, in a 
small bag which holds from thirty to forty drops, and lies 
near the vagina. Carrying theis scent in a vial, go to a 
log which lies with one end in the water, set your trap aijd 
fasten it as above directed, and put a drop or two of oil 
on the log just above the water. The first rat that comes 
along will be yours. The oils of rhodium and amber can 
be used in the same manner to advantage. 



TO CATCH MUSKRATS WITHOUT TRAPS. 

It is a mystery to many how muskrats, beavers, and other 
animals are able to stay so long under water, apparently 
without breathing, especially in winter. The way they man- 
age is, they take a good breath at starting; and then remain 
under water as long as possible. Then they rise up to the 
ice and breathe out the air in their lungs, which remains in 
a bubble against the lower part of the ice. The water near 
the ice is highly charged with oxygen, which it readily im- 
parts to the air breathed out. After a time this air is taken 
back in the lungs, and the animal goes again under water, 
repeating this process from time to time. In this way they 
can travel almost any distance, and live almost any length 
of time under the ice. The hunter takes advantage of this 



454 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



habit of the muskrat in the following manner: When the 
marshes and ponds where the muskrat abounds are first 
frozen over, and the ice is thin and clear, on striking into 
their houses with his hatchet, for the purpose of setting his 
trap, he frequently sees a whole family plunge into the 
water and swim away under the ice. Following one for 
some distance, he sees him come up to recover his breath, 
in the manner above described. After the animal has breathed 
against the ice, and before he has time to take his bubble 
in again, the hunter strikes with his hatchet directly over 
him, and drives him away from his breath. In this case 
he drowns in swimming a few rods, and the hunter, cutting 
a hole in the ice, takes him out. 




A Secluded Nook 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



435 



THE BEAVER 

This animal is furnished with two incisors and eight 
molars in each jaw, twenty in all; and is particularly dis- 
tinguished from all the rest of the rodentia by a broad hori- 
zontally-fattened tail, which is nearly oval and covered 
with scales. There are five toes on each of the feet, but 
those of the hinder ones — somewhat resembling those of a 
goose — only are webbed, the webs extending beyond the 
roots of the nails. The second toe of these last is fur- 




The Beaver at Work 



nished vs'ith a double nail, or rather two, one like those of 
the other toes, and another beneath it, situated obliquely, 
with a sharp edge directed downward. There is also a less 
perfect double nail on the inner toe of the hind-feet. 

The incisor teeth of the beaver are broad, flattened, and, 
as in most of the order, protected anteriorly by a coat of 



436 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

very hard orange-colored enamel, the rest of the tooth being 
of a comparatively soft substance, whereby a cutting, chisel- 
like edge is obtained; and, indeed, no edge-tool, with all its 
combinations of hard and soft metal, could answer the pur- 
pose better. In fact, the beaver's incisor tooth is fashioned 
much upon the same principle as that followed by the tool- 
maker, who forms a cutting instrument by a skillful adapta- 
tion of hard and soft materials till he produces a good edge. 
But the natural instrument has one great advantage over the 
artificial tool; for the former is so organized that as fast 
as it is worn away by use, a reproduction and protrusion 
from the base takes place, and thus the two pairs of cljisel- 
teeth working opposite to each other are always kept in 
good repair, with their edges at the proper cutting angle. 
When injury or disease destroys one of these incisors, its 
opposite, meeting with no check to resist the protrusion 
from behind, is pushed forward into a monstrous elonga- 
tion. So hard is the enamel, and so good a cutting instru- 
ment is the incisor tooth of the beaver, that, when fixed in 
a wooden handle, it was used by the northern Indians to 
cut borte, and fashion their horn-tipped spears, etc., till 
it was superseded by the introduction of iron, when the 
Jaeaver tooth was supplanted by the English file. 

The power of these natural tools is such that a beaver 
will bite off a sapling of the size of a walking-stick at a 
single effort of its teeth. 

When the beaver cuts down a tree it gnaws it all round, 
cutting it, however, somewhat higher on the one side than 
the other, by which the direction of its fall is determined. 
The stump is conical, and of such a height as a beaver sit- 
ting on his hind-quarters could make. The largest tree 
I observed cut down by them was about the thickness of a 
man's thigh — that is, six or seven inches in diameter. Beavers 
have no canine teeth. 

The length of the head and body of a beaver is thirty- 
six to forty inches; the tail is about eleven inches. In the 
pairing season it utters a kind of cry resembling a faint 
groan. Owing to the shortness and inequality of its limbs, 
the gait is waddling and ungraceful; this effect is increased 
by the clumsiness of its figure, and the difficulty it seems 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 437 

to have in dragging- after it its cumbrous tail. The latter, 
however, becomes useful in the water, where the animal 
spends the greater part of its time, sometimes being employed 
as a paddle, and sometimes as a rudder. The color is a red- 
dish-brown: there are varieties, however, some of which are 
flaxen-colored, and some black. There are albinos which 
are white. 

The young of the beaver, five to seven at a birth, are 
produced, in April or May, the eyes being open; in a month, 
they follow their mother into the water, but remain with 
her a year, sometimes two y^ars, being kept in a place of 
safety. Sometimes a dozen beavers dwell together. They 
are caught at all seasons, being fat in autumn, but falling 
off in winter. They have been found weighing from thirty 
to sixty pounds. Their common food is the bark of trees 
— birch, willow and cotton-wood — and the roots of aquatic 
plants, especially the pond-lily; in summer they wander some 
distance from the water, and feed on berries, leaves and 
various kinds of herbage. They are said occasionally to 
devour fish, but this is not probable. Their fur consists 
of two sorts, one composed of long, stifif and elastic hair; 
the other, of a fine, soft, compact down, which gives ex- 
traordinary value to the skin. 

It appears that among the beavers there are some lazy 
ones which do not, or will not, assist in the general labors 
of the association. These, as might be expected, are all 
males, and are beaten off by the community, and often are 
injured by having their tails cut off, and by other wounds. 
It has been suggested that they are disappointed lovers, 
and strange as it may appear, there seems some reason for 
this idea. They are called old bachelors. They do not 
build dams, but dig holes from the water, running obliquely 
toward the surface of the ground. ' From these they emerge, 
when necessity requires, to obtain food. They do not seem 
to set much value on life, and are easily caught by the 
hunters and trappers. 

The drug called castoreum, and which is an unctuous 
substance, of a strong, musky odor, is obtained from two 
glandular sacks, situated near the anus. In dissecting a 
beaver, both males and females are furnished with one pair 



438 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

of little bags containing castoreum, and also with a second 
pair of smaller ones betwixt the former and the anus, which 
are filled with a white fatty matter, of the consistence of 
butter, and exhaling a strong odor. This latter substance 
is an article of trade; the Indians occasionally eat it, and also 
mingle a little with their tobacco when they smoke. From 
the circumstance of small ponds, when inhabited by beavers, 
being tainted with its peculiar odor, it seems probable that 
it affords a dressing to the fur of these aquatic animals. 
Ihe castoreum in its recent state is of an orange-color, 
which deepens as it dries into bright reddish-brown. During 
the drying, which is allowed to go on in the shade, a 
gummy matter exudes through the sack, which the Indians 
delight in eating. The male and female castoreum is of 
the same value, ten pairs of bags of either kind being once 
reckoned to an Indian as equal to one beaver skin. The 
castoreum is never adulterated in the fur countries. 

The castoreum, which is called bark-stone by the traders, 
is used by the hunters in baiting their traps, because the 
beavers are exceedingly fond of the odor. The end of a 
small stick, chewed or crushed, is dipped in the castoreum, 
which is kept in a horn; it is then set in the water, with the 
anointed end above the surface, and the trap beneath. The 
beavers scent the castoreum for a hundred yards or more, 
and so much are they delighted, that they draw in a long 
breath, and utter a cry of joy as they imbibe the delicious 
fragrance. On approaching the delusive bait they are caught 
in the trap. 

The flesh of the beaver is much prized by the Indians 
and Canadian voyagers, especially when it is roasted in the 
skin, after the hair has been singed off. In some districts 
it requires all the influence of the fur-trader to restrain the 
hunters from sacrificing a considerable quantity of beaver 
fur every year to secure the enjoyment of this luxury; and 
Indians of note have generally one or two feasts in the 
season, wherein a roasted beaver is the prime dish. It re- 
sembles pork in its flavor, but the lean is dark-colored, 
the fat oily, and it requires a strong stomach to sustain a 
full meal of it. The tail, which is considered a great luxury, 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 439 

consists of a gristly kind of fat, as rich, but not so nauseat- 
ing, as the fat of the body. 

Where the beavers are numerous they are found to in- 
habit lakes, ponds and rivers, as well as those narrow creeks 
which connect the numerous lakes with which this country 
abounds: but the two latter are generally chosen by them 
when the depth of water, and other circumstances, are suit- 
able, as they have then the advantage of a current to con- 
vey wood and other necessaries to their habitations, and 
because, *n general, they are more difficult to be taken than 
those that are built in standing water. They always choose 
those parts that have such a depth of water as will resist 
the frost in winter, and prevent it from freezing to the 
bottom. The beavers that build their houses in small rivers 
or creeks, in which water is liable to be drained off when 
the back supplies are dried up by the frost, are wonderfully 
taught by instinct to provide against that evil by making a 
dam quite across the river, at a convenient distance from 
their houses. 

The beaver-dams differ in shape according to the nature 
of the place in which they are built. If the water in the 
river or creek_ have but little motion, the dam is almost 
straight; but when the current is more rapid, it is always 
made with a considerable curve, convex toward the stream. 
The materials made use of are drift-wood, green willows, 
birch and poplars, if they can be got; also, mud and stones, 
intermixed in such a manner as must evidently contribute 
to the strength of the dam; but there is no other order or 
method observed in the dams, except that of the work 
being carried on with a regular sweep, and all the parts 
being made of equal strength. In places which have been 
long frequented by beavers undisturbed, their dams, by 
frequent repairing, become a solid bank, capable of resist- 
ing a great force, both of water and ice; and as the willow, 
poplar and birch generally take root and shoot up, they by 
degrees form a kind of regular planted hedge, which I 
have seen in some places so tall that birds built their nests 
among the branches. 

The beaver houses are built of the same materials as the 
dams, and are always proportioned iji size to the number 



440 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

of inhabitants, which seldom exceeds four old and six or 
eight young ones; though by chance I have seen above 
double the number. Instead of order or regulation being 
observed in rearing' their houses, they are of a much ruder 
structure than their dams; for, notwithstanding the sagacity 
of these animals, it has never been observed that they aim 
at any other convenience in their houses than to have a 
dry place to lie on, and there they usually eat their victuals, 
which they occasionally take out of the water. It frequently 
happens that some of the large houses are found to have 
one or more partitions, if they deserve that appellation, but 
it is no more than a part of the main building, left by the 
sagacity of the beaver to support the roof. On such occa- 
sions, it is common for those different apartments to have 
no communication with each other but by water; so that, 
in fact, they m3.y be called double or treble houses, rather 
than different apartments of the same house. I have seen 
a large beaver house built in a small island that had near 
a dozen apartments under one roof; and, two or three of 
these excepted, none of them had any communication with 
each other but by water. As there were beavers enough 
to inhabit each apartment, it is more than probable that 
each family knew their own, and always entered at their 
own doors, without any further connection with their neigh- 
bors than a friendly intercourse, and to join their united 
labors in erecting their separate habitations, and building 
their dams where required. 

They lay most of the wood crosswise, and nearly hori- 
zontal, and without any other order than that of leaving a 
hollow or cavity in the middle. When any unnecessary 
branches project inward,, they cut them oft" with their teeth 
and throw them in among the rest, to prevent the mud from 
falling through the roof. It is a mistaken notion that the 
wood-work is first completed and then plastered; for the 
whole of their houses, as well as their dams, are, from 
the foundation, one mass of mud and wood, mixed with 
stones, if they can be procured.. The mud is always taken 
from the edge of the bank, or the bottom of the creek or 
pond near the door of the house; and though their fore- 
paws are so small, yet it is held close up between them 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 441 

under their throat; thus they carry both mud and stones, 
while they always drag the wood with their teeth. All 
their work is executed in the night, and they are so expedi- 
tious that in the course of one night I have known them to 
have collected as much as amounted to some thousands 
of their little handfuls. It is a great piece of policy in 
these animals to cover the outside of their houses every 
fall with iresh mud, and as late as possible in the autumn, 
even when the frost becomes pretty severe, as by this 
means it soon freezes as hard as a stone, and prevents their 
common enemy, the wolverine, from disturbing them during 
the winter; and as they are frequently seen to walk over 
their work, and sometimes to give a flap with their tail, 
particularly when plunging into the water, this has, with- 
out doubt, given rise to the vulgar opinion that they use 
their tails as a trowel with which they plaster their houses; 
whereas, that flapping of the tail is no more^'than a custom 
which they always preserve, even when they become tame 
and domestic, and more particularly so when they are startled. 
Their food consists largely of the root of the common 
yellow water-lily. They also eat the bark of trees, particu- 
larly those of the poplar, birch and willow; but the ice 
preventing them from getting to the land in the winter, 
they have not any bark to feed on in that season, except 
that of such sticks as they cut down in summer, and throw 
into the water opposite the doors of their houses, and as 
they generally eat a great deal, the roots above mentioned 
constitute a principal part of their food during the winter. 
In summer they vary their diet by eating various kinds of 
herbage, and such berries as grow near their haunts during 
that season. When the ice breaks up in the spring, the 
beavers always leave their houses, and rove about until a 
little before the fall of the leaf, when they return again to 
their old habitations, and lay in their winter stock of wood. 
They seldom begin to repair their houses till the frost com- 
mences, and never finish the outer coat till the cold is pretty 
severe, as has been already mentioned. When they erect a 
new habitation, they begin felling the wood early in the 
summer, but seldom begin to build until the middle or 



443 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

latter end of August, and never complete it till the cold 
weather sets in. 

Persons who attempt to take beaver in winter should be 
thoroughly acquainted with their manner of life, otherwise 
they will have endless trouble to effect their purpose, be- 
cause they have always a number of holes in the banks 
which serve them as places of retreat when any injury is 
offered to their houses, and in general it is in those holes 
that they are taken. When the beavers which are situated 
in a small river or creek are to be taken, the Indians some- 
times find it necessary to stake the river across, to prevent 
them from passing; after which, they endeavor to find out 
all their holes or places of retreat in the banks. This re- 
quires much practice and experience to accomplish, and is 
performed in the following manner: every man being fur- 
nished with an ice-chisel, lashes it to the end of a small 
staff about four or five feet long; he then walks along the 
edge of the banks, and keeps knocking his chisel against 
the ice. Those who are acquainted with that kind of work 
well know by the sound of the ice when they are opposite 
to any of the beavers' holes or vaults. As soon as they 
suspect any, they cut a hole through the ice big enough 
to admit an old beaver, and in this manner proceed till 
they have found out all their places of retreat, or at least 
as many of them as possible. While the principal men are 
thus employed, some of the understrappers and the women 
are busy in breaking open the house, which at times is no 
easy task, for I have frequently known these houses to be 
five or six feet thick, and one in particular was more than 
eight feet thick in the crown. When 'the beavers find that 
their habitations are invaded, they fly to their holes in the 
banks for shelter; and on being perceived by the Indians, 
which is easily done by attending to the motion of the 
water, they block up the entrance with stakes of wood, 
and then haul the beaver out of its hole, either by hand, 
if they can reach it, or with a large hook made for that 
purpose, which is fastened to the end of a long stick. 

In this kind of hunting every man has the sole right 
to all the beavers caught by him in the holes or vaults; 
and as this is a constant rule, each person takes care to 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 443 

mark such as he discovers by sticking up a branch of a 
tree, by which he may know them. All that are caught in 
the house are the property of the person who finds it. 
The beaver is an animal which cannot keep under water 
long at a time, so that, when their houses are broken open, 
and all their places of retreat discovered, they have but 
one choice left, as it may be called, either to be taken in 
their house or their vaults; in general, they prefer the lat- 
ter, for where there is one beaver caught in the house, 
many thousand are taken in the vaults in the banks. Some- 
times they are caught in nets, and in summer very fre- 
quently in traps. 

In respect to the beavers dunging in their houses, as 
some persons assert, it is quite wrong, as they always 
plunge into the water to do it. I am the better enabled to 
make this assertion from having kept several of them till 
they became so domesticated as to answer to their name, 
and follow those to whom they were accustomed in the 
same manner as a dog would do, and they were as much 
pleased at being fondled as any animal I ever saw. 

The beaver is instinctively led to build his house near the 
banks of lakes and rivers. He saws with his teeth 'birch 
trees, with which the building is constructed; with his 
teeth he drags the wood along to the place destined for 
building his habitation; in this manner one piece of timber 
is carried after another where they choose. At the lake or 
river, where their house it to be built, they lay birch- 
stocks or trunks, covered with their bark, in the bottom it- 
self, and forming a foundation, they complete the rest of 
the building with so much art and ingenuity as to excite 
the admiration of the beholders. The home itself is of a 
round and arched figure, equaling in its circumference the 
ordinary hut of a Laplander. In this house the floor is for 
a bed, covered with branches of trees, not in the very 
bottom, but a little above, near the edge of a river or lake, 
so that, between the foundation and flooring, on which 
the dwelling is supported, there is formed, as it were, a 
cell, filled with water, in which the stalks of the birch tree 
are put up: on the bark of this the beaver family who in- 
habit this mansion feed. If there are. more families under 



444 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

one roof, besides the laid flooring, another, resembling the 
former, is built a little above, which you may not im- 
properly name a second story in the building. The roof 
of the dwelling consists of branches very closely compacted, 
and projects out far over the water. You have now, reader, 
a house consisting and laid out in a cellar, a flooring, a 
hypocaust, a ceiling and a roof, raised by a brute animal. 

While the beaver has thus been exterminated in Europe, 
except that a few linger along the borders of the rivers in 
the more thinly settled portions, and somewhat greater 
numbers exist in the forests of the north, in North America 
a similar process has been going on. Where, half a century 
ago, a hunter or trapper could kill four hundred in a year, 
they are already scarce, and are only to be found in suffi- 
cient numbers to make the pursuit a profession in the dis- 
tant solitudes of the extreme northwest. 



TRAPPING THE BEAVER 

The beaver has been practically exterminated in all the 
Atlantic and in the Western States, as far as the middle and 
upper waters of the Missouri; while in the Hudson Bay 
possessions they are becoming annually more scarce, and 
the race will eventually be extinguished throughout the whole 
continent. A few individuals may, for a time, elude the 
immediate violence of persecution, and like the degraded 
descendants of the aborigines of our soil be occasionally 
exhibited as melancholy mementos of the tribes long previ- 
ously whelmed in the fathomless gulf of avarice. The busi- 
ness of trapping requires great experience and caution, as 
the senses of the beaver are very keen, and enable him to 
detect the recent presence of the hunter by the slightest 
traces. It is necessary that the hands should be washed 
clean before the trap is handled and baited, and every pre- 
caution should be employed to elude the vigilance of the 
animal. 

The bait which is used to entice the beavers is prepared 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 443 

from the substance called castor, obtained from the gland- 
ulous pouches of the male animal, which contains some 
times from two to three ounces. This substance is called 
by the hunters barkstone, and is squeezed gently into an 
open-mouthed phial. The contents of tive or six of these 
castor bags are mixed with a nutmeg, twelve or tifteen 
cloves, and thirty grains of cinnamon, in fine powder, and 
then the whole is stirred up with as much whiskey as will 
give it tke consistency of mustard prepared for the table. 
This mixture must be kept closely corked up, and in four 
or hve days the odor will become more powerful; with 
care it may be preserved for months without injury. Various 
other strong aromatics are sometimes used to increase the 
pungency of the odor. Some of this preparation, smeared 
upon the bits of wood with which the traps are baited, will 
entice the beaver from a great distance. 

The castor, whose odor is similar to tanners' ooze, gets 
the name of barkstone from its resemblance to finely pow- 
dered bark; the sacks that contain it are about two inches 
in length. Behind these, and between the skin and root 
of the tail, are found two other oval cists, lying together, 
which contain a pure, strong oil of a rancid smell. 

During the winter season the beaver becomes very fat, 
and its flesh is esteemed by the hunters as excellent food, 
but those occasionally caught in the summer are very thin 
and unfit for the table. They lead so wandering a life at 
this season, and are so much exhausted by the collection 
of materials for building, or the winter stock of provisions, 
as well as by suckling their young, as to be generally, at 
that time, in a very poor condition. Their fur, during the 
summer, is of little value, and it is only in winter that it 
is to be obtained in that state which renders it so desirable 
to the fur traders. 

Beaver hunting is a laborious occupation. With your 
beaver traps on your back you start into the wild woods 
and go to some small branches or creeks that empty into 
lakes or large streams. Follow these up until you dis- 
cover small trees, cut down by the beaver. It is not ex- 
actly like chopping done with an axe, but it is fairly chopped 
after all — cut smoothly from above and below, lengthwise 
with the grain. If the cut seems fresh and new, the beavers 



446 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

are close by. Don't make much noise, nor leave much sign 
behind you, if you intend to catch them in a trap. 

We will suppose this is late in the fall, just before the 
winter sets in, and that you suddenly come upon a dam 
as you travel up the little stream, and it proves to be an 
old dam of long standing with a large pond of water 
above it. You may naturally conclude that there is a large 
family of beavers, say eight or ten in number. Of course 
you want to catch them all in your trap, so hunt carefully 
around the pond and you will find their feeding place, 
where they have eaten the bark off from their feed wood. 
Here set your trap in four inches of water, with a twelve- 
pound stone fastened to the end of the chain. Fasten to 
it also a piece of bark twelve or fourteen feet long, the 
other end being fastened to the shore. When the beaver 
is caught he will make for deep water, and the stone will 
sink him and drown him. The bark will let him go far 
enough, and will enable you to trace the trap and pull him 
out. The bark should be fastened to a stake under water, 
and the slack should be coiled up and put under the stone. 
The whole apparatus, except the trap, should be nicely 
covered with mud. If you find the place where they haul 
in their tim-ber, set a trap there in the same way. Also just 
at the mouths of their holes, under water. Always have 
the trap sufficiently weighted, or the beaver will come 
ashore and amputate his leg. When you set the trap at 
the feeding place, smear the wood around it with the castor 
scent before described. 

Don't imagine any old scent will do for beaver, or, for 
that matter, any animal. Scent to be right must be for that 
particular kind, else it makes them suspicious, and when 
you use bait or feed scent don't use too much of it. Many 
trappers use so much that they make the place fairly stink, 
and it's like posting a sign^ keep off; in fact, a dead give- 
away and makes them alarmed and suspicious. A few drops 
suffices if it is good and strong or made right. 

When you cut a beaver dam, don't make a hole more 
than six inches deep. Wade in the water while you are 
doing it; don't step on the land, and don't spit on it; neither 
handle it with dirty hands. Set the trap as before directed 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 447 

in about four inches of water, where they would naturally 
swim up to the gap in the dam, and you will be sure to 
catch them. 

Another mode is to take a poplar or alder stick or pole, 
and stick it in the water in a slanting direction near the 
feeding place. Set the trap near the bottom of the stick, 
and as they work down in gnawing ofT the bark for food, 
they will get into the trap. This plan works well after 
the watei^ is frozen over. In fact, one wants to study out 
conditions and make their sets according to things as they 
find them. There is no cut and dried system in any kind of 
trapping. Hardly any two animals are caught under exactly 
the same conditions (except in the same set). Personally 
I have always found that I had to use different methods. 
In every part of the world I have hunted and trapped in, 
whether in the Arctics, Antarctics, Alaska, Norway, Green- 
land, Hudson Bay or Spitzbergen, and nearly every state in 
the Union, one most judge largely, by conditions, season, 
weather, foods, habits and peculiarities of the animals, and 
if they have been hunted or trapped much one will have 
to be mighty careful, as the old ones are very shy and 
suspicious of everything strange. 

The Xo. 3 Newhouse trap is the best size for the beaver. 
Some trappers use the Xo. 4, but we have found the Xo. 3 
to work most effectually, it being more easily handled 
than a larger trap. There is no regular rule for setting 
traps for beaver, as they must be arranged in accordance 
with the nature of the trapping ground. It is not best to 
put traps in beaver holes, as they become wary and sus- 
picious; but to drown the beaver should always be made a 
point, else an amputated foot is all that the trapper will 
get for his trouble. 

When searching for "sign," find a slide if possible, and 
set the trap at the foot of it, about four inches under water; 
bury the trap lightly in the mud, except the pan, which 
should be free, and lightly covered with dirt or leaves; leave 
as little trace as possible, and fasten in the middle a stick 
about three feet long to the ring in the end of the chain; 
then tie a rope or light chain to the ring long enough to 
let the beaver reach deep water when caught. If the 'bank 



448 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

is steep and water deep, drive a long pole in the bottom, and 
stake the large end down under water near the trap. Ad- 
just the chain about the pole so that it will slide easily, 
fasten the end of the rope or long chain to a stake under 
water where it can be easily reached; cover all traces of the 
fastenings as nearly as possible with mud or dead leaves, 
and throw water where you have been standing, or upon any 
object handled. If stones are about, it is well to weight a 
trap, though it is but seldom a beaver makes his way to the 
surface of the water when once reaching the bottom of the 
pole; here he is sure to go when trapped, in attempting 
to reach deep water. When a trapped beaver is able to reach 
his hole, or get loose from the pole, he will enter a burrow 
the length of the short chain only, and the cross-pole will 
stop him in season to be easily drawn from the hole. 

In small dams, rig the trap with cross-pole and buoy 
only, having the trap lightly weighted; a beaver will be 
drowned in the entrance of a hole, or in deep water, when 
the buoy will indicate the position of the trap. In thick 
willows, where one has no canoe to find suitable places 
for setting traps, it is best to place them at crossings, or 
where the beavers are at work. Should a dam be com- 
pleted (which is usual before cold weather), make a ditch 
where the water will run over, and set a trap the same as 
at the foot of a slide. It is seldom that beavers are taken 
on successive nights in one dam, as the first capture general- 
ly alarms the rest. The castoreum, or beaver medicine, 
can be made after the first pelt has been stretched. The 
proper way to prepare it is to take the contents of the four 
glands and mix with enough alcohol to preserve it. Most 
trappers use whiskey to preserve the beaver medicine; we 
have questioned many, and they all give the same receipt; 
we have heard of some more fastidious than practical, who, 
with the pen, mix all kinds of strong scents with the 
castoreum. hut it over-powers the odor that should be pre- 
served—the natural scent of the beaver. The medicine must 
be used above the traps as much as possible. For instance, 
if a trap was set under a log in the water, the lower 
surface of the log should be rubbed with the castoreum. 

A good trapper never skins a beaver near a dam, as 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



449 



everything left behind suggests an enemy in the camp to 
the rest of the sagacious beavers. 

Although the haunts and habits of the beaver are all the 
necessary details to be given in trapping, the anatomy 
of the skull is so peculiar that it cannot fail to be of interest 
to the reader. 

The skull of the average beaver is 5 inches long, 3.50 
inches wide, with a circumference over the eyes of 11 inches. 
The heavy structure indicates great strength, and the under 
jaw is remarkably thick and strong. The brain is medium 
in size. The upper portion of the skull is broad and flat, with 
a slight rise from nose to occiput, broken only by a slight 
depression between the eyes. The ears in life are attached 
to bone tubes, wdiich project 0.25 of an inch from the skull 
and run to the drums; these are large, rather near to- 
gether, and rest just forward of the occipital bone. There 
are two incisors on each jaw, the superior ones curving in- 
ward, and the lower ones slightly outward; the latter are 
the longest, measuring 1.25 inch. The front surface of the 
incisors are covered with plates of thick enamel, which form 
the cutting edges. It is very hard, and the outer surface is 
of an orange color. The teeth are shaped precisely like a 
carver's gouge, being slightly convex on the face, sharpened 
by a Concave slant from a point scarcely half the length 
of the teeth to the edges. 

The grinders are eight on a side (four upper, four 
under), and are regularly grooved like the ruminant's. The 
fore part of the upper jaw is so narrow that the width 
of the roof of the mouth is but 0.25 of an inch between the 
first two teeth; all of the upper grinders slant backward, 
while those of the lower jaw incline forward, and both 
meet with evenness and precision. 




The Beaver. 



450 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



THE PORCUPINE 

This includes certain rodents whose covering consists 
for the most part of a kind of offensive and defensive armor, 
in the shape of spines or quills, instead of hairs, somewhat 
after the manner of the hedge-hogs. Their molars are 
four in number, with a flattened crown, variously modified 
by layers of enamel, which leave deep intervals; their tongue* 
is rough, with spiny scales; the tail is short, and the feet 
plantigrade. Many of the species live in burrows, and 
have much the habits of rabbits. Their grunting voice, 
joined to their large and truncated muzzle, has caused 
them to be compared to the hog, whence their French 
name, Pore-Epic, meaning Spiny-pig. 

When full grown it is about one foot in length, the 
longest spines exceeding a foot. The general color is griz- 
zled dusky-black, resulting from an intermixture of vari- 
ous shades of white, brown and black; upper part of the 
head and neck furnished with a crest of long lighter-colored 
hairs, capable of being raised or depressed at pleasure; hair 
on the muzzle and limbs very short, almost black on the 
limbs; that of the neck and under parts brownish, and of 
considerable length; on the fore-part and sides of the neck 
a whitish band; all the remaining parts of the back and sides, 
including the rump and upper parts of the hinder-legs, armed 
with spines, which are longest on the center of the back. 
The spines, almost of the thickness of a goose-quill in the 
middle, are supported at the base by a slender pedicle, and 
terminating in very sliarp points, striated longitudinally, 
and ringed alternately with black and white; the rings an 
inch or more broad. Their usual position is lying nearly 
flat upon the body, with the points directed backward; 
when the animal is excited, they are raised by means of the 
subcutaneous muscles almost at right angles with the body, 
and then present a very formidable appearance. They are 
not capable of being detached by the animal. The tail- 
quills are, as it were, cut off in the middle, and are conse- 
quently open at the end, and produce a loud rustling noise 
when the animal agitates its tail. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 451 

The porcupine is a nocturnal animal, sleeping in the 
burrow which it digs, and to which there are several open- 
ings, during the day, and coming forth at nightfall to seek 
its food, consisting principally of roots, fruits and tender 
leaves Its usual food near the Cape, where it is called 
Yzer-Varken, is the root of that beautiful plant, the Calla 
-(^thiopica, which grows even in the ditches about the 
gardens; but it will frequently deign to put up with cab- 
bages and other vegetables, and sometimes commits great 
depredations in the gardens themselves. It undergoes a 
partial hibernation, but its sleep is not of long duration, for 
it ventures abroad again at the very commencement of 
spring. The young are produced in August, and have very 
small spines. 

The use of the quills is simply that of a defensive armor, 
but as this seems a cumbrous device for such a purpose, 
we are led to insist on finding other advantages to be de- 
rived from them. Hence, Thunberg tells us that he was 
informed that the Ceylonese porcupine had "a very curious 
method of fetching water for its young, namely, the quills 
in the tail are said to be hollow, and to have a hole at the 
extremity, and that the animal can bend them in such. a 
manner as that they can be filled with water, which after- 
ward is discharged in the nest among the young." Such 
inventions, to help nature out, so as to satisfy a narrow 
conception of her works, are doubtless the source of many 
of the common-place errors in respect to animals of peculiar 
organization; but the truth certainly is, that the porcupine 
finds his quill armor an exceedingly convenient, useful and 
effective defense, and he would be as imperfect without it 
as a wasp without its sting, or a cock without his spurs. The 
porcupine is an exceedingly stupi<l creature, and hence, no 
doubt, nature supplied him with his formidable covering as 
a compensation for his lack of brains; as an indispensable 
provision in order to put him on a level with other brutes 
of his order. The mode by which nature equalizes her 
favors are infinitely diversified: some animals she endows 
with instincts, some with gifts analogous to reason, some 
with strength, some with dexterity, some with defensive or 
offensive weapons. The hare has speed, the squirrel activity, 



452 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



the marmot caution, the beaver ingenuity, the rat most or 
all of these qualities; the porcupine, destitute of all, has 
his quiver of arrows, which he shakes in the face of his 




The Porcupine 

foe, to frighten him if he is a coward, and to pierce him if 
he has the courage to make an attack. In case of need, 
he will run backward at his enemy, and thus strike his sharp- 
pointed arrows into him. Without his quills, the porcupine 
would seem to be a singularly unmeaning, uncouth and 
helpless sot; with them, he has a position in history, and 
figures in literature as the emblem of human fretfulness and 
conceit. 



THE MARTEN 

The marten includes several remarkable species, all of 
which climb with facility, and having long, lithe bodies, with 
short legs, are able to enter holes and wind through pas- 
sages from which even the smallest cats are excluded. 
They are all endowed with voracious appetites, and devour 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



453 



great numbers of eggs, birds and small quadrupeds. Some 
of them introduce themselves into the poultry-yards, and 
make immense havoc among the feathered inhabitants. Most 
of them are noted for their valuable peltry, and some pro- 




The Marten. 



duce the finest and most luxurious furs that are known. 
Though nearly allied to the weasels and polecats, which 
are distinguished for their offensive odor, the martens only 
diffuse a musky and not disagreeable scent. 

Its head is somewhat triangular, the muzzle pointed, the 
eyes prominent and lively; the body much elongated and 
very flexible; the tail long, thick and bush}'; the toes naked, 
but at times, probably in the winter, covered beneath with 
thin soft hair. The fur is of two sorts — the inner extremely 
soft, short, copious and of a light yellowish-gray color; 
the outer very long, shining, ash-colored at the roots, brown 
at the extremity, but of different degrees of intensity at dif- 
ferent parts of the body; the middle of the back, the tail, 
the outer parts of the legs and the feet, being darker than 
the other parts; the belly lighter and more gray; the throat 
white. Length of head and body one foot six inches; of the 
tail, nine inches six lines. 

This marten is found more remote from woods, though 
it is often met with in them, and more frequently in moun- 
tainous and stony places, and nearer the habitations of man 
than the pine marten. It prefers the vicinity of farm-yards 
and homesteads, and is a ruinous visitor to them and the 
game-preserve. It is an expert climber, and is lively, active 
and graceful in its movements. The nest of the female is 
constructed of herbage, straw or grass, sometimes in the 



454 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

hollow of a tree, sometimes in the crevices of rocks, not 
unfrequently in a ruin, .and occasionally in granaries or 
barns. The fur is considered very far superior to that of 
the pine marten, and is known in the trade as the skin of 
the Stone Marten. Many are imported from the north of 
Europe, and dyed to represent sable. The comparatively 
poor quality of the fur, however, is immediately perceptible 
to the experienced eye, although, as is the case with most 
of the animals which are used for their fur, the northern 
skins are fuller, richer in color and more lustrous than those 
from more temperate climates. 

The Pine Marten 

Of this species the general color is brown, though as in 
the case of the preceding, subject to variation in the depth 
of the tint; throat yellow; toes naked beneath; legs longer 
and head smaller than in the beech marten. This is the 
Marte of the French; Marta, Martura, Martora and Mar- 
torello of the Italians; Marta of the Spanish; Feld-Marder 
and Wild-IMarder of the Germans; Marter of the Dutch; 
Wawpeestan of the Cree Indians; Wawbeechins of the Al- 
gonquins; Sable of the American fur dealers, though Dr. 
DeKay thinks the American sable a distinct species, and 
Marten of the Hudson's Bay Company's Lists. It is found 
in Europe and North America. In its habits it resembles 
the beech marten in many respects, but it shuns the neigh- 
borhood of man — living in Europe in deep forests, and prey- 
ing on birds and the smaller animals. The female deposits 
six to eight young ones, in a nest of moss and leaves, formed 
in some hollow tree, when she does not take possession of 
that of the squirrel or the woodpecker. 

In America it inhabits the woody districts in the northern 
parts, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, m great numbers, 
and has been observed to be particularly abundant where 
the trees have been killed by fire, but are still standing. 
It lives in the trees, is nocturnal in its habits and destroys 
great numbers of the smaller squirrels. The limit of its 
northern range in America is like that of the woods, about 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 455 

the sixty-eighth degree of latitude, and it is said to be 
found as far south as New England. Particular races of 
martens, distinguished by the fineness and dark colors of 
their fur, appear to inhabit certain rocky districts. The 
rocky and mountainous but woody district of the Xipigon, 
on the north side of Lake Superior, has long been known for 
its black and valuable marten skins. 

Length of the head and body from eighteen to twenty 
inches, ^'he fur loses all its luster, and consequejitly 
much of its value, upon the falling of the first shower of 
rain for the season. This animal preys on mice, hares and 
partridges, and in summer on small birds' eggs. etc. A bird's 
head, with the feathers, is the best bait for the long-traps 
in which it is taken. It does not reject carrion, and often 
destroys the hoards of meat and fish laid up by the natives, 
when they have accidently left a crevice by which it can 
enter. When its retreat is cut off, it shows its teeth, sets 
up its hair, arches its back, and hisses like a cat. It will 
seize a dog by the nose and bite so hard that, unless the 
latter is well used to the combat, it escapes. Easily tamed, 
it soon becomes attached to its master, but is not docile. 
The flesh is occasionally eaten, but not prized, by the Indians. 
The females are smaller than the males, go with young about 
six weeks, and produce from four to seven at a time, about 
the end of April. 

The fur of this animal is much esteemed, and the ex- 
portation of skins from the territories of the Hudson's Bay 
Company and Canada is very great. 

The Pekan, Fisher or Pennant's Marten, called Black Fox 
and Black Cat in some parts of the United Stated, has a 
head somewhat resembling^ a cat, eyes small and oblique, 
body long, and formed for agility and strength; general color, 
grayish brown; length of the body, twenty-four inches. 
It runs with rapidity, and climbs trees with facility. When 
attacked by dogs it fights ferociously. Though nocturnal 
in its habits, it is frequently seen abroad in the day. It 
prefers low, swampy ground, and being partially web-footed, 
probably preys occasionally on fish; it generally feeds on 
mice, rabbits, grouse and the like. It is said to have re- 
ceived the name of Fisher from a taste for fish used to bait 



456 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

traps. It has a fondness for the Canada porcupine, which 
it kills by turning it over and biting it on the belly. 

The Sable, or Zibeline Marten, M. zibellina; the Sobol 

of the Poles and Russians. — This is by far the most highly 

esteemed of all the martens; it ranks higher in respect 

to its fur than even the ermine. In form and size it does 

not differ greatly from the other martens, and there is also 

a slight resemblance in the character of the fur, though 

that of the martens is very inferior in all those qualities which 

are valued in furs. Though the fact is sometimes stated 

otherwise, the teeth of the sable are of exacth' the same 

character as those of the martens, which indicates the same 

kind of living, and the capacity of partially subsisting upon 

vegetable matter when animal food is not to be had. But 

there is one character of the sable which points it out as 

belonging to a different locality, and that is, the feet being 

completely covered with fur down to the claws. Thus the 

sable is a more northerly animal than any of the martens, 

and much more a creature of the wilds. Accordingly, it 

is never met with in warm places, but only in the extremest 

wilds of Siberia and the vicinity, beyond the positive forests, 

and on the margins of the polar ice. 

The skin of the sable is exceedingly valuable; and though 
a very small one, a single skin fetches a large price. The 
animal is accordingly sought after with the greatest assiduity, 
and it may be said, that the desire of procuring sable skins 
has conduced more than anything else to the discovery 
of the extreme north and northeast of Asia. It is during 
the winter that this hunting is carried on, and it is described 
as being more severe than the hunting of the fur animals in 
America, because of the vast accumulations of broken ice, 
covered with snow, which skirt the shores of the sea, and 
contain between them the most dangerous pitfalls, concealed 
by snow. In America, the margin of the Polar Sea is no 
doubt as wild in itself as it is in Asia; but the American 
hunting-ground does not come up into so high latitudes as 
the sable ground in Siberia; and thus, though the American 
hunter has long roads and severe cold, he is not beset by so 
many dangers. We need hardly mention that the fur of the 
sable, in its perfection, is a rich brown, marked with some 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 457. 

white spots on the chin and sides of the head. The part 
where these spots are is not as much valued as the rest, and 
the furriers work it up separately, and give it the name of 
"sable gill." 

Like the ermine, the sable is subject to an annual change 
of color. In summer it is black, and the change to brown 
that it undergoes in winter naturally follows the general law 
of being more perfect in proportion as the cold is more 
severe. The cold of the sable's country, however, is suffi- 
cient every winter for accomplishing any thing that cold can 
accomplish, whether it reside in the places which we have 
mentioned close by the Polar Sea, or on the cold heights 
of the mountains further south; and, therefore, the sable 
skins obtained during the winter are more uniform in color 
than those of animals which inhabit less rigorous localities^ 

In many places in Siberia, the hunting of the sable is a 
duty imposed by the Russian government upon the exiles 
of that country; and to them, when they first enter upon it, 
it is the most dreadful to which human beings can be sub- 
jected. They are unacquainted with the country, and in- 
stead of knowing where to discover and how to procure the 
animals, of which they are compelled to find a specified 
number, they can hardly make their own way across the 
rocks and chasms, fallen trees, and countless other irregulari- 
ties, all hidden under the snow; and thus many of them 
perish in that dreadful wilderness. 

The sable, as we might expect, partakes of the characters 
of a tree animal and a ground animal jointly. It can climb, 
and it is understood to climb for those wild berries which 
remain upon the branches in winter, as well as for birds 
and their eggs and young during the summer. It also 
hunts prey upon the ground, and though it is, of course, 
not capable of running down a hare in fair chase, it is very 
capable of dispatching one if it come upon it 'by surprise. 
It is also sure to follow the more powerful predatory ani- 
mals, the polar bear, the wolf, and the glutton, in order to 
obtain a share of their prey. In its disposition it is not a 
ferocious animal, but can be tamed, and will show some 
affection in a domestic state. In this condition it subsists 



458 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

indiscriminately upon animal and vegetable matter, and is 
said not to be so prone to make its escape to the wilds as the 
other martens. 



HOW TO CATCH THE MARTEN* 

The pine marten, a native of the north, and an inhabi- 
tant of the pine forests, whence it derives its name, is 
abundant in the northern portions of British America, and 
is not uncommon among the wooded ravines of the north- 
ern United States. It builds its habitation chiefly on the 
tops of the fir, or seizes on the already formed nest of the 
squirrel, or some bird, whence it drives the owner, and 
enlarges for its own convenience. It is of rather less size 
than the common marten, but its fur is finer and darker, 
and the throat and breast yellow, instead of white. In 
summer it assumes a lighter tinge, and its hair be- 
comes shorter; in winter its toes are well protected by 
long wool, which drops ofif as the weather gets warm. Its 
habits are similar to the common marten, but it is more 
fierce; it never meets the wild-cat without a deadly en- 
counter and is sometimes victorious even over the eagle, 
when that bird pounces on its prey, seizing the aggressor 
by the throat, and bringing it lifeless to the ground. 
Formerly, the fur of this species formed a lucrative article 
of export from the United States. At present immense 
quantities are brought from Siberia, and in one year the 
Hudson Bay Company alone sold fifteen thousand skins. 

The sable inhabits the same countries in the north, 
and has sometimes been confounded with the former, 
which it strongly resembles in structure and habits. It is 
somewhat larger in size than the pine marten; its head is 
rather more slightly depressed, and its muzzle more elon- 
gated, the soles of the feet more villous, and finally, the 
fur on its body is more beautiful, soft, long, black and 
shining, and the hair turns with ease either way. The skin 
is consequently more valuable, and one of them not ex- 
ceeding four inches broad has sometimes been valued as 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 459 

high as seventy-five dollars. The tails are sold by the 
hundred at from twenty to forty dollars. The exiles in 
Siberia are required to furnish a certain number of skins 
annually, from w^hich the Russian government is said to 
derive a considerable revenue. The smell of the marten 
tribe is rather agreeable. They are taken in traps, and 
also hunted with the musket. 

The marten is easly caught. The common way is to 
set dead-falls a quarter of a mile apart on the banks of 
streams, or through brook and wilderness, hauling a trail 
of liver, or the body of roasted crow from one to the other. 
The dead-fall is so well known that it is not necessary to 
describe it. 

In using the steel trap, bait with the bodies of crows, 
chickens, partridges, fresh fish, liver or entrails. Stake the 
bait in the hollow roots of trees, under logs, or under the 
edges of rocks; then set your trap in such a manner that 
they will have to go over it to get the bait; fasten it with 
chain and stake, and cover it up with moss or leaves. 
Or set your trap in some convenient place, where you can 
suspend the bait eighteen inches above it in such a man- 
ner that they cannot possibly climb up to it, for they 
will certainly do this when they can. 

The marten may be caught in a wooden trap in the fol- 
lowing manner. In the side of a tree, with its bottom 
about eighteen inches from the ground, cut a square hole 
six inches wide, eight inches high, and five or six inches 
deep. Cut a pole about twelve feet long, and square ofif 
one end so that it will play up and down easily in the 
hole, and so that when it is raised against the top there 
will be five inches space below it; that is, have the squared 
end only three inches thick, and a little narrower than the 
width of the hole. Let the other end rest on a forked 
stick, so as to hold it in a horizontal position. Raise the 
squared end against the top of the hole and set it with a 
standard and spindle near the back of the hole. Bait the 
spindle with any of the meats named above. The marten, 
in trying to get the bait, pulls out the standard, and lets 
down the pole, which catches him by the head. 



460 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

The marten may be followed by his tracks, which are 
about the size of a small cat's. He always travels on a 
jump, making only the mark of two feet close together, 
the pairs being about two feet and a half apart. When 
closely pursued he takes to a tree, and is a splendid climber. 
You will find his tracks in my chapter on tracks and trailing. 



THE FERRET 

The ferret is of a light yellowish color, dififerent parts 
being more or less white, for the long fur is partly white, 
and the short almost entirely yellow; the ej^es are pink, 
length of head and body fourteen inches; of the tail six 
inches. It is supposed to be a native of Africa, but is not 
found there in a v/ild state; it is domesticated in Europe, 
and, by some, is regarded as a variety of the polecat, pro- 
duced partly through albinism. This, no doubt, is an error. 
Its habits are similar to those of the European weasels, 
but more blood-thirsty. 

This species, whose whiteness and red eyes may, per- 
haps, be the result of a long period of domestication, can- 
not bear cold, and should be kept warm to insure its healthy 
condition. It is said to breed twice a year in a state of 
domestication, unless it devours its offspring, which it some- 
times does, and then it has three litters. The gestation of 
the female continues six weeks, and she then produces gen- 
erally six or seven young — sometimes even nine. These 
are blind for a month, and at the end of two more are con- 
sidered fit for service. 

It is very bold, however, and its disposition to kill rab- 
bits is most inveterate. It is chiefly used for rabbit-hunt- 
ing, not for killing them: for if it were allowed to do that, 
it would soon dispatch a whole warren, and leave the 
owner to dig out the dead bodies at his leisure. It is used 
to "unearth" them, or drive them out of their holes, and 
it is carefully muzzled to prevent it from biting. The rab- 
bits are not, of course, aware of the perfect harmlessness 
of the muzzled ferret, and so they scamper out, and are 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 461 

caught, generally by watch at the mouths of the holes, 
and at another time in a net, if the object is to keep the 
rabbits alive. It is also the very prince of rat-catchers; 
and, as it is not muzzled for this sort of occupation, it 
slaughters away in a dashing style, and might be very use- 
ful in places infested with rats, were it not for the atten- 
tion and trouble which it requires. In corn-stores and 
mills it might be advantageously kept; and if a snug berth 
could aiways be provided for it, it would be very valuable 
at sea. The ferret, as is the case with most animals when 
transported to a climate colder than their natural one, spends 
a great deal of its time in sleep; but the moment that it 
awakens, it is in a state for action; and slender as it seems, 
it is capable of undergoing a great deal of fatigue. 

It is distinguished b}^ the long, flexible, worm-like form, 
the nimble gliding movements, the sanguinary tastes and 
destructive habits of the genus; and, indeed, possesses all 
their qualities in the highest perfection. It is ten or eleven 
inches long, the body reddish brown above, and white 
beneath; extremity of the tail black. The most remarkable 
fact in its history is, that the dark part of its fur turns white 
in winter, in northern climates, but generally remains, the 
same in southern latitudes, as in Virginia, for instance. 
Even in the state of New York, shades of brown frequently 
remain blended with the white. The change from brown to 
white takes place in October and November; the change 
from white to brown in March. These alterations are not 
effected by shedding the coat, but by changes in the color 
of the hair itself. The young are four to seven in number, 
and are produced in April. 

"It appears that in England, generally," says Mr. Mac- 
gillivary, "the ermine is less common than the weasel; but 
in Scotland, even to the south of the Frith of Forth, it is 
certainly of more frequent occurrence than that species; 
and for one weasel I have seen at least five or six ermines. 
It frequents stony places and thickets, among which it finds 
a secure retreat, as its agility enables it to outstrip even 
a dog in a short race, and the slimness of its body allows 
it to enter a very small aperture. Patches of furze, in particu- 



462 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



lar, afford it perfect security, and it sometimes takes pos- 
session of a rab'bit's burrow. It preys on game and other 
birds, from the grouse and ptarmigan downward, some- 
times attacks poultry or sucks their eggs, and is a deter- 
mined enemy to rats and moles. Young rabbits and hares 
frequently become victims to its rapacity, and even full- 
grown individuals are sometimes destroyed by it. Although 
in general it does not appear to hunt by scent, yet it has 
been seen to trace its prey like a dog, following its track 
with certainty. Its motions are elegant, and its appearance 
extremely animated. It moves by leaping or bounding, 
and is capable of running with great speed, although it 




"Shaw's Drowner" Ready for Use. 

seldom trusts itself bej^ond the immediate vicinity of cover. 
Under the excitement of pursuit, however, its courage is 
surprising, for it will attack, seize by the throat, and cling 
to a grouse, hare, or other animal strong enough to carry 
it off, and it does not hesitate, on occasion, to betake itself 
to the water. Sometimes, when met with in a thicket or 
stony place, it will stand and gaze upon the intruder, as if 
conscious of security; and, although its boldness has been 
exaggerated in the popular stories which have made their 
:^ay into books of natural history, it cannot be denied that, 



I! 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 463 

in proportion to its size, it is at least as courageous as the 
tiger or the lion." 

In Siberia, ermines are taken in traps baited with flesh; 
and in Norway they are either shot with blunt arrows, or 
taken in traps made of two flat stones, one being propped 
up with a stick, to which is fastened a baited string. This 
the animal nibbles, when the stone falls and crushes it. 
Two logs of wood are used for the same purpose, and in the 
same nranner, in Lapland. 

Not that a weasel will do one-third the mischief that a 
stoat will, nor upon animals of such large growth, but it 
will do enough. It is a most active and persevering hunter; 
few trees will stop it when in search of bird's nests, which 
it robs not only by sucking the eggs, but by carrying ofif 
the young. It will hunt the mole, the field-mouse and other 
small quadrupeds in their usual haunts, not only by the eye, 
but by scent, like a stoat, and most amusing it is to see 
one of these flexible, agile little creates tracing up the scent 
when it is at fault. They will quarter the ground like a 
dog till they hit it ofif, and to lose no help from the eye. will 
occasionally sit up, raising themselves on their hind-quarters 
to gain a more extended view around them. Their persever- 
ance will tire down animals larger and stronger than them- 
selves, nor will water stop them when their prey takes 
to it for safety. In they plunge, and seldom quit their 
object till the fatal bite is inflicted. The brain is generally 
first eaten, and the body of the victim kept as a supply 
near the haunt of the little hunter; but it seems very ques- 
tionable whether they are addicted to the blood-sucking 
propensities which the vulgar attribute to them. 

With similar courage the weasel will attack dogs, and even 
men, when its nest is invaded. This is formed of dry leaves 
and herbage, and is generally lodged in some snug locality, 
such as a crevice in a bank, the hollow of a tree, or a dry 
ditch, which keeps it warm and comfortable. Here four or 
five young are brought up from each birth, the number of 
these litters being two, and even three, in the year. 



464 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



THE MINK 

The mink has the long, slender body of the genus; the 
color, varying in different species, is generally dark brown, 
with a light spot under the throat. When seen in the woods 
or fields the animal appears black, and hence "black as 
mink" is a proverbial expression among us. There is con- 
siderable difference in the size; thirteen inches is, however, 
the average length of the body and head. The mink has 




The Mink. 

not only the form of the weasels, but much 'of their 
activity and voracity. They frequently take up their abode 
near the poultry-yafd, where they make great havoc. They 
frequent the streams, where they swin well, and prove 
themselves to be expert fishermen. They not only eat fish, 
but frogs and crawfish, besides mice and rats, the latter 
furnishing a good part of their' living. They have a good 
nose, and follow their prey by scent with the certainty of a 
hound. They are fond of water, preferring small streams; 
they delight in rapids and waterfalls, and often make their 
residence at their feet. Many of them frequent the marshes 
of the Southern States, where they feed on small shell-fish 
and aquatic insects, with such shore birds as they can seize. 
The marsh-hen frequently becomes their prey. They some- 
times ascend trees, but not often; they are neither sus- 
picious nor cunning, and are easily caught in traps. The 
young are produced in April, and from four to six at a time. 
The fur was once much esteemed, but it is now of little 



COMPLETE TRAPPE'RS GUIDE 465 

value; some specimens, however, of peculiar fineness, and 
of a beautiful silver-gray, stil bring large prices. This ani- 
mal is peculiar to North America, and is distributed through- 
out nearly its whole extent, being rare, however, in the 
more settled parts. 

The Mountain Brook Mink, P. nigrescens, is somewhat 
smaller than the preceding, the body being about eleven 
inches long. In color and habits it resembles the vison. 
It is found in the mountainous regions from Canada to 
Pennsylvania. 

The mink unquestionably belongs to the weasel family, 
from which it is distinguished only by a few slight struc- 
tural modifications and some aquatic habits. There is not 
much difference between them and the so-called polecats, 
stoats or weasels, the facial expression and skull being a 
trifle narrower, somewhat like the marten. Its toes, too, 
are partly webbed. It resembles much the marsh otter of 
eastern Europe, Finland, Siberia and Russia. 

In size it much resembles the English polecat — the length 
of the head and body being usually from 15 to 18 inches, 
that of the tail to the end of the hair about 9 inches. The 
female is considerably smaller than the male. The tail 
is bushy, but tapering at the end. The ears are small, low, 
rounded, and scarcely project beyond the adjacent fur. 
The pelage consists of a- dense, soft, matted under fur, mixed 
with long, stiff, lustrous hairs on all parts of the body and 
tail. The gloss is greatest on the upper parts; on the tail 
the bristly hairs predominate. Northern specimens have the 
finest and most glistening pelage; in those from southern 
regions there is less difference between the under and over 
fur, and the whole pelage is coarser and harsher. In color, 
different specimens present a considerable range of varia- 
tion, but the animal is ordinarily of a rich dark brown, scarce- 
ly or not paler below than on the general upper parts; but 
the back is usually the darkest, and the tail is nearly black. 
The under jaw, from the chin about as far back as the 
angle of the mouth, is generally white. In the European 
mink the upper lip is also white, but, as this occasionaly 
occurs in American specimens, it fails as an absolutely dis- 
tinguishing character. Besides the white on the chin, -there 



466 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



Head Habits and Peculiarities of 
Wild Animals. 




The Mink at Home in Winter. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 467 

are often other irregular white patches on the under parts 
of the body. In very rare instances the tail is tipped with 
white. The fur, like that of most of the animals of the 
group to which it belongs, is an important article of com- 
merce. 

The principal characteristic of the mink in comparison 
with its congeners is its amphibious mode of life. It is to 
the water what the other weasels are to the land, or martens 
to the trees, being as essentially aquatic in its habits as the 
otter, beaver or musk-rat, and spending perhaps more of its 
time in the water than it does on land. It swims with most 
of the body submerged, and dives with perfect ease, remain- 
ing long without coming to the surface to breathe. It makes 
its nest in burrows in the banki of streams, breeding once 
a year about the month of April, and producing five or six 
3-oung at a birth. Its food consists of frogs, fish, fresh- 
water molluscs and crustaceans, as well as mice, rats, musk- 
rats, rabbits and small birds. In common with the other 
animals of the genus it has a very peculiar and disagreea'ble 
effluvium, which, according to Coucs, is more powerful, 
penetrating and lasting than that of any animal of the coun- 
try except the skunk. It also possesses the courage, ferocity 
and tenacity of life of its allies. When taken young, how- 
ever, it can be readily tamed, and lately minks have been ex- 
tensively bred in captivity in America both for the sake of 
their fur and for the purpose of using them in like manner 
as ferrets in England, to clear buildings of rats. 

The result of my observation during twenty-five years 
spent in the woods and fields in a good game country, is 
that the weasel is the most destructive enemy the small game 
has to contend against. Dogs that are allowed to run at 
large, cats, hawks and foxes all kill game; but there is a 
chance to escape from all these by hiding in holes in the 
ground or in hollow trees; but a weasel will follow a track 
like a bloodhound, and can enter anywhere. It is no un- 
common thing to see a rabbit running through the woods, 
squealing with terror, a weasel in close pursuit; and well may 
the rabbit squeal, for his chances of escape are not one in a 
hundred. If anyone doubts this, let him find the track of a 
weasel on a fresh fall of snow. The track, I may remark. 



468 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

resembles that of a fox — though, of course, smaller — and it 
will be seen that the prints are made by two feet striking- 
side by side like this: 

instead of a single footprint, as in the fox track. If the 
track is followed a few hours in a country where there 
are plenty of rabbits, it is not unusual to find that from ten 
to twenty rabbits have been killed by a single weasel in a 
night, while a fox will rarely kill more than two or three. 
A fox will eat the carcass of animals, scraps from camp, 
or offal where big game has been butchered; a gray fox 
will not decline apples, nuts and berries. There are many 
nights, during heavy snows or storms, when the rabbits do 
not venture from their holes and the foxes have no chance 
to catch them. I have often seen where a fox had lain 
in wait at a rabbit burrow as a cat watches for a mouse, 
but in the end was compelled to go away without his game. 

A weasel, on the contrary, can follow a rabbit wherever 
he may choose to go. The fine sport that fox hunting af- 
fords, together with the commercial value of their skins, will 
prevent foxes from increasing in numbers very rapidly; but 
the pelt of the weasel is not worth taking, and the animal 
itself is seldom encountered by hunters. So it goes on 
destroying the game and has no enemies to hinder its natural 
increase. A small deadfall, baited with a rabbit-leg or a 
bird-head, will often secure the little pest, while it will not 
catch so large an animal as a dog or cat. Foxes and rabbits 
are often abundant in the same locality, but where you see 
weasel tracks the rabbits soon disappear. 

They are prime from November to January. Foods used: 
Birds, mice, rabbits, squirrels, musk-rats, etc. Use water 
sets whenever possible on banks and sand bars, arranging 
bait sufficient distance away so as the animal will have to 
step on trap to reach it. Bait can be fastened securely on 
a pointed stick as if floating, and stick to trap. If they re- 
fuse bait try scent only. If stream is frozen set your trap 
at crossings or natural bridges, enclosures, gullies, etc., 
formed by dead limbs, brush, etc., where it will be protected 
from snow drifts, etc., and depend upon scent to lure them 
that way. Minks, as a rule, like to investigate and sneak 



I 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 469 

around every likely hole and corner, and can be easily led 
to the trap or snare by scent or blood trails. 



HOW TO CATCH THE MINK 

This little animal, which is much like the weasel, has, 
of late years, become so valuable that no pains is spared 
to obtain his hide. It is but a few years since that a mink 
skin would not bring above twenty cents. The mink is 
shaped much like the otter, and although he appears to be no 
more Rtted for swimming than the weasel, yet the water is 
his home. He eats fishes and frogs, and craw-fish, and now 
and then gets into the farm and steals chickens, and goslings, 
and ducks, and whatever he can lay his jaws to. He is a 
pilfering little rascal, and yet so simple and foolish that he 
Avill run into a naked trap for the sake of something to eat; 
he runs up streams of water and crosses the land from one 
lake to another — a regular renegade. He burrows in steep 
banks, or under old roots, or in the rocks. The young are 
brought forth in ]May or June, in litters of five or six — black 
looking little things, 

To catch this animal, you have only to be acquainted 
with its habits. Pie follows streams of water, hunting every 
nook and corner for something to eat. Place j^our trap near 
the edge of the water (so that it will be covered about an 
inch deep),, directly in front of a steep bank or rock, or 
something on which you can hang your bait, about eighteen 
inches above the level of the trap, which must be so close 
to the shore that the mink cannot get to the bait without 
stepping on it. The bait should be fresh fish or frogs, or 
the head of some bird or fowd. He is very fond of brains. 

Another plan is to set your trap on the land about two 
feet from the shore, covering it with a few leaves, moss, 
grass, or loose dirt, or anything that will not prevent the 
jaws from closing. Hang the bait about eighteen inches 
above it, and scent it with a mixture made of equal parts 
of honey, sweet oil and essence of peppermint. About six 
drops of this on the bait will cause them to come from a 



470 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



long distance. Some use wooden traps, with which they are 
quite successful, if they round regularly. 

The following is a good plan: Set your traps about two 
feet back from the water, and from forty to eighty rods 
apart, up or down the stream. , Then walk over the line, 
drawing after you the carcass of a muskrat, or almost any 
fresh meat; and any mink that crosses this line or trail will 
follow it to the trap. It is also a good plan to set your 
trap where the mink must walk over it to get at the bait. 
He is a great fellow to catch muskrats, which he loves to 
eat, and you may bait the trap with muskrat and set it in a 
rat house, where you will often find handfuls of little fish 
that the mink has brought there. In the winter time he 
travels along springy brooks, pulling out frogs, and here he 
may easily be caught. You may also catch them in winter 
at the sides of big springs, or along the springy sides of 
ponds and swamps, where they like to roam. 




The Author's Pack Tent and Bedding, which can be carried 

in the pack. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 471 



THE WOLVERENE 

The glutton, gulo, carcajou, quickhatch wolf-bear are some 

of the common names of this interesting creature whose 
form indicates strength without corresponding activity. 
Body is heavy, clumsy like; legs, thick, short and low; back, 
high arched, form drooping before and behind; tail and head 
carried low; general appearance like a bear cub; head broad 




Wolverine 

and rounded; short pointed muzzle; eyes wide apart, small 
but crafty; ears low, shaggy appearance; legs stout, feet 
large; track like a small bear, but not quite so' flat; palms 
and soles furry, but pads naked; color, blackish to deep, 
dusky or yellowish 'brown fading to gray; legs and feet dark; 
claws curved, strong and whitish; old ones show more mark- 
ings than the young and include white stripings on back, 
rump and throat. Color varies according to habitat and 
age. Animal or scent glands about the size of a walnut; 
fluid yellowish brown, strong to a high degree; discharge by 
glands without the verge of the anus. Massive skull, hyena- 
like; jaws strong and powerful. 

Probably no animal has a greater reputation, superstitious 
reverence and traditional history, which pictures it as a raven- 
ous monster, a terror or bloodthirsty brute or glutton, than 
the wolverene, which is said to resemble a very large, clumsy 
marten or weasel, of great strength, but not corresponding 
activity, displaying great intelligence, perseverance, sagacity; 



472 COMPLETE TRAPPERS, GUIDE 

it lives in dens or burrows, holes up periodically, but does 
not hibernate; it feeds on carcasses of any animal which 
it can find dead, or which it kills. It ordinarily feeds 
on small animals. It is an extraordinary thief or robber, 
and this fact has led to exaggerations of its abilities. It 
does not climb trees, but will steal and rob stores or caches 
of meat, fish and provisions laid up; steals the bait from 
traps or anything it can carry away and avoids the most 
experienced ■ trappers' sets or snare with almost human in- 
telligence. Hence, the very many stories as to its super- 
human feats of strength and craftiness. 

Alluding to the wolverene's notorious habit of following 
marten roads, Mr. Graham remarks that the animal tears 
the captured martens to pieces or buries them at a distance 
in the snow. "Drifts of snow often conceal the repositories 
thus made of the martens from the hunter, in which case 
they furnish a regale to the hungry fox, whose sagacious 
nostril guides him unerringly to the spot. Two or three 
foxes are often seen following the wolverene for this 
purpose." 

"The wolverene is a dangerous foe to many animals 
larger than itself, and by the professional hunter it is looked 
upon as an ugly and dangerous customer. There are several 
methods of trapping this horrid creature, and in many locali- 
ties successful trapping of other animals will be impossi'ble 
without first ridding the neighborhood of the wolverenes. 
Dead-falls of large size will be found to work successfully, 
baiting with the body of some small animal, such as a rat 
or squirrel. A piece of cat, beaver or muskrat flesh is also 
excellent, and by slightly scenting with castoreum suc- 
cess will be made sure. Several of these traps may be set 
at intervals, and a trail made by dragging a piece of smoked 
beaver meat between them. The gun-trap will also do 
good service in exterminating this useless and troublesome 
animal. Steel traps of size No. 3 or 4 are commonly used 
to good purpose. In all cases the trap should be cov- 
ered with leaves, moss or the like, and the bait slightly 
scented with castoreum. Like all voracious animals, the 
perpetual greed of the wolverene completely over-balances 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 473 

its caution, and thus renders its capture an easy task." — 
No trapper or hunter may safely leave an animal he has 
killed for one night, but never for a second time, without 
placing it in a strong cache of logs. The first night the 
wolverene is pretty sure to visit the place, but will touch 
nothing. The next night he is certain to return,^ and, if he 
can possibh^ get at the meat, he will gorge himself, and then 
make away with the rest, which he cunningly hides, piece 
by piece* under the snow, in different directions. At every 
cache he makes he voids his urine or drops his dirt, probably 
to prevent foxes, martens or other animals from smelling 
the hidden meat and digging it up. Caches must be made 
of green wood, and be exceedin.>ly strong, or the animal 
will certainly break into them. He has been known to gnaw 
through a log nearly a foot in diameter, and also to dig 
a hole several feet deep in frozen ground, to gain access to 
the coveted supply. Should he succeed in gaining entrance 
for himself, an3 yet be unable to displace the logs sufficient- 
ly to permit of removal of the meat, the 'brute will make 
water and dirt all over it, rendering it wholly unfit to be 
used: even a dog will then scarcely touch it. 

To the trapper, the wolverenes are equally annoying. 
When they have discovered a line of marten traps, they will 
never abandon the road, and must be killed before the trap- 
ping can be successfully carried on. Beginning at one end. 
they proceed from trap to trap along the whole line, pull- 
ing them successively to pieces, and taking out the baits 
from behind. When they can eat no more, they continue 
to steal the baits and cache them. If hungry, they may 
devour two or three of the martens they find captured, the 
remainder being carried off and hidden in the snow at a 
considerable distance. The work of demolition goes on as 
fast as the. traps can be renewed. 

The propensity to steal and hide things is one of the 
strongest traits of the wolverene. To such an extent is it 
developed that the animal will often secrete articles of no 
possible use to itself. Besides the wanton destruction of 
marten traps, it will carry off the sticks and hide them at a 
distance, apparently in sheer malice. The desire for ac- 
cumulating property seems so deeply implanted in this 



474 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

animal, that, like tame ravens, it does not appear to care 
much what it steals so that it can exercise its favorite 
propensity to commit mischief. "An instance occurred with- 
in my own knowledge in which a hunter and his family 
having left their lodge unguarded during their absence, 
on their return found it completely gutted — the walls were 
there but nothing else. Blankets, guns, kettles, axes, cans, 
knives and all the other paraphernalia of a trapper's tent 
had vanished, and the tracks left by the beast showed who 
had been the thief. The family set to work, and by care- 
fully following up all his paths recovered, with some trifling 
exceptions, the whole of the lost property. 

Though very clumsy animals, the wolverenes manage to 
capture, at times, such prey as hares or grouse, and they 
successfully attack disabled deer. We have already seen how 
they destroy foxes in their burrows; and they are usually 
found in excellent condition. They also teed on offal or 
carrion; in fact, anything that they can catch or steal. Their 
own flesh is only eatable in the extreme of starvation. They 
bring forth in burrows under ground, probably old bear 
washes, and have four or live young at a birth. It is very 
rarely that they are discovered at this period or whilst suck- 
ling their young. One reason, however, may be that they 
reproduce late in June and early in July, when the mos- 
quitoes are so numerous that no one who can avoid it 
goes abroad in the woods. The rutting season is in the 
latter part of March. The female is ferocious in the defense 
of her young, and if disturbed at this time will not hesitate 
to attack a man. Indeed, Indians have been heard to aver 
that they would sooner encounter a she-bear with her. cubs 
than a carcajou under the same circumstances. In October, 
when the rivers set fast, the wolverenes reappear in families, 
the young still following their dam, though now not much 
her inferior in size. They are full grown when about a year 
old. In early infancy, the cubs are said to be of a pale cream 
color. 

The wolverene may be captured in wooden traps similar 
to those used for martens, ibut of course made on a much 
larger scale, as the animal's strength is enormous, even for 
its size. The traps are sometimes built with two doors. 
But so great is the cunning and sagacity of the beast that 



COMPLETE 'TRAPPE'RS GUIDE 475 

the contrivance for its destruction must be very perfect. The 
traps are covered up with pine-brush, and made to resemble 
a cache as much as possible; the wolverene is then likely 
to break in and get caught. The bait, ordinarily the con- 
spicuous feature of a trap, must in this instance be concealed, 
or the animal will either break in from behind, or, failing 
in this, will pass on his way. It is sometimes also taken in 
steel traps, or by means of a set gun; but both these meth- 
ods are uncertain, great "medicine" being required to outwit 
the knowing and suspicious beast. 

The eyesight of the wolverene is not very bright, but his 
sense of smell is extremely acute. 

One winter passed at Fort Simpson I had a line of marten 
and fox traps, and lynx snares, extending as far as Lac de 
Brochet. Visiting them on one occasion I found a lynx alive 
in one of my. snares, and being indisposed to carry it so far 
home, determined to kill and skin it before it should freeze. 
But how to cache the skin till my return? This was a seri- 
ous question, for carcajou tracks were numerous. Placing 
the carcass as a decoy in a clump of willows at one side of 
the path, I went some distance on the opposite side, dug a 
hole with my snow-shoe about three feet deep in the snow, 
packed the skin in the smallest possible compass, and put 
it in the bottom of the hole, which I tilled up again very 
carefully, packing the snow down hard, and then strewing 
loose snow over the surface till the spot looked as if it had 
never been disturbed. I also strewed blood and entrails in 
the path and around the willows. Returning next morning, I 
found that the carcass was gone, as I expected it would be, 
but that the place where the skin was cached was ap- 
parently undisturbed. "Ah, you rascal." said I, addressing 
aloud the absent carcajou, "I have outwitted you for once." 
I lighted my pipe, and proceeded leisurely to dig up the 
skin to place in my muskimoot. I went clear down to the 
ground, on this side and on that, but no lynx skin was there. 
The carcajou had 'been before me, and had carried it off 
along with the carcass; but he had taken the pains to fill 
up the hole again and make everything as smooth as before! 

At Peel's River, on one occasion, a very old carcajou dis- 
covered my marten road, on which I had nearly a hundred 



476 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

and fifty traps. I was in the habit of visiting the line about 
once a fortnight^ but the beast fell into the way of coming 
oftener than I did, to my great annoyance and vexation, 
I determined to put a stop to this thieving and his life to- 
gether, cost what it might. So I made six strong traps at as 
many different points, and also set three steel traps. For 
three weeks I tried my best to catch the beast without suc- 
cess; and my worst enemy would allow that I am no green 
hand in these matters. The animal carefully avoided the 
traps set for his own benefit, and seemed to be taking more 
delight than ever in demolishing my marten traps and eating 
the martens, scattering the poles in every direction, and cach- 
ing what baits or martens he did not devour on the spot. As 
we had no poison in those days, I next set a gun on the bank 
of a little lake. The gun was concealed in some low bushes, 
but the bait was so placed that the carcajou must see it on 
his way up the bank. I blockaded my path to the gun with 
a small pine tree which completely hid it. On my first visit 
afterward I found that the beast had gone up to the bait and 
smelled it, but left it untouched. He had next pulled up the pine 
tree and blocked the path, and gone around the gun and cut 
the line which connected the bait with the trigger, just behind 
the muzzle. Then he had gone back and pulled the bait 
away, and carried it out on the lake, where he laid down 
and devoured it at his leisure. There I found my string. I 
could scarcely believe that all this had been done designed- 
ly, for it seemed that faculties full}^ on a par with human 
reason would be required for such an exploit, if done in- 
tentionally. I therefore rearranged things, tying the string 
where it had been bitten. But the result was exactly the 
same for three successive occasions, as I could plainly see 
by the footprints; and what is most singular of all, each time 
the brute was careful to cut the line a little back of where 
it had been tied before, as if actually reasoning with him- 
self that even the knots might be some new device of mine, 
and therefore a source of hidden danger he would prudently 
avoid. I came to the conclusion that that carcajou ought 
to live, as he must be something at least human, if not worse. 
I gave it up, and abandoned the road for a period. 

On another occasion a carcajou amused himself, much as 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 477 

usual, by tracking my line from one end to the other and de- 
molishing my traps, as fast as I could set them. I put a 
large steel trap in the middle of a path that branched ofif 
among some willows, spreading no bait, but risking the 
chance that the animal would "put his foot in it" on his way 
to break a trap at the end of the path. On my next visit 
I found that the trap was gone, but I noticed the blood and 
entrails of a hare that had evidently been caught in the trap 
and devoured by the carcajou on the spot. Examining his 
footprints I was satisfied that he had not been caught, and I 
took up his trail. Proceeding about a mile through the woods 
I came to a small lake, on the banks of which I recognized 
traces of the trap, which the beast had laid down in order 
to go a few steps to one side to make water on a stump. 
He had then returned and picked up the trap, which he had 
carried across the lake, with many a twist and turn on the 
hard crust of snow to mislead his expected pursuer, and then 
again entered the woods. I followed for about half a mile 
farther and then came to a large hole dug in the snow. 
This place, however, seemed not to have suited him, for 
there was nothing there. A few yards farther on, however, 
I found a neatly built mound of snow on which the animal 
had made water and left his dirt; this I know was his cache. 
Using one of my snowshoes for a spade I dug into the hillock 
and down to the ground, the snow being about four feet 
deep; and there I found my trap, with the toes of a rabbit 
still in the jaws. Could it have been the animal's instinc- 
tive impulse to hide prey that made him carry my trap so 
far merely for the morsel of meat still held in it? Or did 
his cunning nature prompt him to hide the trap for fear 
that on some future unlucky occasion he might put his own 
toes in it and share the rabbit's fate? 

The ferocity of the wolverene, no less than its cunning. 
is illustrated in some of the endless occasions on which it 
matches its powers against those of its worst enemy. A man 
had set a gun for a carcajou which had been on his usual 
round of demolition of marten traps. The animal seized 
the bait unwarily, and set ofif the gun; but owing to care- 
less or improper setting, the charge missed or only wounded 
it. The carcajou rushed upon the weapon, tore it from its 



478 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

fastenings and chewed the stock to pieces. It is added to 
the account of this exploit that the beast finished by plant- 
ing the barrel muzzle downward upright in the snow; but 
this may not be fully credited. The stories that pass cur- 
rent among trappers in the north would alone fill a volume, 
and they are quite a match for those that Olaus Magnus 
set down in his book centuries ago. How much wiser are 
we in our generation? Is there anything new under the sun? 
But we need not go beyond the strict fact to be impressed 
with the extraordinary wit of the beast, whom all concur 
in conceding to be "as cunning as the very devil." 

With so much for the tricks and the manners of the 
beast behind our backs, roaming at will in his vast solitudes, 
what of his actions in the presence of man? It is said that 
if one only stands still, even in full view of an approaching 
carcajou, he will come within fifty or sixty yards, provided 
he be to windward, before he takes the alarm. Even then, 
if he be not warned by sense of smell, he seems in doubt, and 
will gaze earnestly several times before he finally concludes 
to take himself off. On these and similar occasions he 
has a singular habit — one not shared, so far as I am aware, 
by any other beast whatever. He sits on his haunches 
and shades his eyes with one of his fore paws, just as a 
human being would do in scrutinizing a dim or distant ob- 
ject. The carcajou then, in addition to his other and varied 
accomplishments, is a perfect skeptic — to use this word in 
its original signification. A skeptic, with the Greeks, was 
simply one who would shade his eyes to see more clearly. 
To this day, in sign language among some of the North 
American Indians, placing the hand to the forehead signifies 
"white man"— either in allusion to this ha'bit, or to the shade 
given the eyes by the straight vizor of the military cap, 
which the Indians see oftener than they desire. Mr. Lock- 
hart writes that he has twice been eye-witness of this 
curious habit of the wolverene. Once, as he was drifting 
down stream in a small canoe, he came within a short dis- 
tance of one of the animals on the bank; it stopped on per- 
ceiving him, squatted on its haunches, and peered earnestly 
at the advancing boat, holding one fore paw over its eyes 
in the manner described. Not seeming to take alarm, it 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



479 



proceeded on a few paces, and then stopped to repeat the 
performance, when Mr. Lockhart, now sufficiently near, fired 
and killed the beast. On another occasion, when the same 
gentleman was crossing the Rocky Mountains, a wolverene, 
which had become alarmed and was making off, stopped 
frequently and put up his paw in the same manner, in order 
to see more clearly the nature of tljat which had disturbed 
him. 



The Warmest Dugout Shanty or Shack 
that can be easily built. 




The Trapper's Winter Ground Hut. 



480 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



The Correct Way to Prepare Pelts 
or Skins. 




Trappers can Materially Increase Their Profiti 

by a Study of This Reproduction of 

Prime Furs or Pelts. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 4St 



HOW TO HANDLE THE PELTS. 

The following kinds of furs should be taken off cased^ 
that is, NOT cut open down the belly: Mink, IMarten, Skunk, 
Opossum, Land Otter, all kinds of Foxes, Ermine (or White 
Weasel), Lynx, Civet, Ring Tail Cat, Fisher, Sea Otter, 
Muskrat and House Cat. 

Wolf may be either cased or open. The fine skins from 
mountain or northern sections sell better cased, while the 
Wolf and Coyote skins from western and southwestern prai- 
rie sections sell better open. 

To remove skins that are taken off cased, a cut should 
be made crosswise just under the tail, and lengthwise down 
the back of the hind legs, so as to get the skins free from the 
legs ; then peel the skin right off. pelt side out. See that the 
skin is free from fat or meat by scraping if necessary, but do 
not cut or damage the skin. Use fur stretchers if yoa have 
them; if not, cut a thin board to the natural shape of the skin, 
but a trifle larger, and put inside the skin so as to stretch it. 
See picture which suggests the popular shapes to stretch the 
various skins. Do not stretch skins too much with the hope 
of getting a large skin out of a small one; too much stretch- 
ing spreads the fur over a larger surface and makes it ap- 
pear thin and lacking in richness of color. 

Note — Cut tails off of Opossum and Muskrat ONLY. 
Leave all other tails on, removing the bone by splitting the 
tail part of the way down if necessary. It is best to remove 
the tail bone to prevent tail from becoming tainted. Espe- 
cially on fine or high priced skins. Leave all legs on Lynx. 

The following kinds of skins should be taken off OPEN: 
Raccoon, Bear, Badger, Beaver, Wolverine and Wild Cat 
(Mountain Lion or Lynx Cat may be taken oft" either open 
or cased). In taking off skins OPEN, they should be cut 
down the center of the belly from chin to tail. See that no 
fat or meat is left on the skin. Stretch respective skins to 
shapes shown in picture and dry carefully. 

Raccoon — Should be taken off open. This style of handl- 
ing is popular with the northern trappers. 



482 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

Mink — Should be cased pelt side out, but suggest casing 
the tine dark skins from extreme north fur side out. 

Black Skunk Short Stripe Skunk 

Narrow Stripe Skunk Broad Stripe Skunk 

All skunk should be cased pelt side out. 
Oppossum — Should be cased pelt side out. 

Square Handled Coon — This is one of the best shapes for 
Coons, especially for central and southern sections. It is 
very popular with all manufacturers. 

Land Otter — Should be cased pelt side out, except we 
suggest that tine dark skins be cased fur side out. 

Silver Fox — Should always be cased fur side out. 

Red Fox — Should be cased fur side out. 

Ermine (or White Weasel) — Should be cased fur side 
out. 

Beaver — Should be open and stretched as nearly round 
as possible. 

White Fox — Should be cased fur side out. 

Cross Fox — Should be cased fur side out. 

Lynx — Should be cased fur side out. Leave all legs on. 

Civet — Should be cased pelt side out. 

Ring Tail Cat — Should be cased' pelt side out. 

Fisher — Should be cased fur side out. 

Wolf — Should he cased fur side out from mountain and 
northern sections, and taken off open from western and 
southwestern sections. 

Sea Otter — Should always be cased fur side out. 
Muskrat — Should be cased pelt side out. 
Marten — Should be cased fur side out. 



How to Judge Why Prices Fluctuate. 

Raccoon — Suitable for coat-making, are selling well to 
Canadian manufacturers, where most of the coon are con- 
sumed. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 483 

'Mink — Is an article of merit, especially fine, dark skins, 
and at the reduced prices ought to move freely, though it has 
had a long run with fashion. They should continue steady 
on present 'basis. 

Skunk — Are still in big supply in Europe, but with the 
low prices it is to be hoped it will move the article more 
freely, and with better results. A good trade is looked for. 

Opossum — Like Skunk, have lacked support, but at pres- 
ent figures should prove an attractive article for low-priced 
manufactured goods. A steady demand at present prices is 
expected. Don't ship trash opossum. 

Red Foxes — Are in right good demand, both for America 
and Europe for dying. Cross Foxes are doing fairly well, 
but not so well as Red Foxes. 

Black and Silver Fox — Of fine dark color and rare speci- 
mens, are wanted, and such skins bring fancy prices. There 
is an over supply of inferior skins that sell only at reduced 
prices, and dull at that. 

White and Blue Fox — Full furred, clear-colored skins, in 
good demand at very good prices. 

Wolf — Is in good demand, especially full furred North- 
ern skins, at good prices. 

Lynx — Has been one of ne best sellers on the list. 
Fashion has favored it materially. Dyed and tipped, it 
makes a fine-looking garment, as well as a reasonable one 
in price. 

Beaver — Is practically unchanged. Demand is princi- 
pally for pale sorts. Dark skins do not sell as well. 

Otter — At the present values ought to move freely, and 
prove a better article. The dark skins are in best demand. 

Muskrat — Has been a great seller in Europe, and in 
America, too. The prices are high and should be a profitable 
skin for trappers this season. An increase in catch is looked 
for. 



484 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

Wild Cat, Badger and Ringtail — Are lower, but not in 
excessive supply. Last year's prices were unreasonably 
high. 

White Weasel — Has been more or less overestimated, 
and will doubtless rule lower in price. It does not com- 
pare with genuine Ermine, which it is used to imitate. 

Marten — With other fine, high-ipriced furs, have been 
somewhat neglected. Prices are necessarily lower. Cau- 
tion should be used in buying new catch, especially poor, 
pale skins. ^ 

Wolverine, Fisher and Sea Otter — Are limited in supply 
and prices practically unchanged. 

Variation in prices depend largely upon demand and 
supply, overstock of certain grades — ^lowest prices; while 
where the demand exceeds the supply, it boosts them. 



HINTS IN TRAPPING AND SELLING FUR. 

The current high prices for furs have started out a good 
many men and boys as trappers who hitherto have given 
little attention to the matter. Customarily we associate the 
idea of the trapper's art with wide reaches of wilderness 
country; but, as a matter of fact, a very large percentage 
of the commercial fur supply comes from countries that may 
be called civilized and long-settled. Especially is this true 
of such furs as those of the fox, muskrats, mink, skunk, 
raccoon and opossum. Otters and beavers are usually 
found in remote districts and the same is true of the mar- 
ten. The farmer boys of the Middle and Eastern States, 
who put in odd hours during the winter, produce in the 
aggregate a vast amount of fur and their catch today runs 
into a lot of money. 

The farmer boy, or even the old professional trapper, 
would make more money if he could get a square deal from 
some of those who buy his furs. The buying side of the 
fur trade is unique. The shipper is obliged to depend upon 
the honesty of the dealer, and some dealers have no hon- 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 485 

esty. This, of course, is not in the least true of reputable 
firms. It does not apply to the great fur companies which 
today collect their furs at their own outlying posts and 
ship them to themselves at their foreign depots, as they 
did a century or more ago. None the less the country is 
full of fly-by-night dealers who advertise in most alluring 
fashion. There are peripatetic fur collectors whose methods 
are not much different from or better than those of the men 
who reraain in the big cities and send out gold-brick litera- 
ture. 

The dishonest commission man has stolen millions of 
dollars from the producers and shippers. This is true in 
farm products, fur products and pretty much everything 
else that offers any opportunity for fraud. The methods 
vary slightly, but the result to the shipper is pretty much 
the same. Some of these fur houses have been known to 
never make any returns whatever to a shipper, but simply 
disappear. If they have succeeded in deluding a dozen or 
two of trappers to send in their year's take they have done 
a good business at the modern prices. Others, again, give 
the trapper a little something to keep him encouraged. Of 
course one of their common customary dodges is to re- 
port that the goods were badly damaged when received. 
The shipper cannot prove anything to the contrary and is 
entirely in the hands of the dealer whom you must know is 
reliable. 



The Work of the Grader. 

A good grader is the moneymaker in an}- fur-buying 
house, as he is in any concern that buys the products of 
farm or wilderness. It is an easy thing to send out cir- 
culars to trappers, quoting prices a third higher than those 
that honorable dealers offer. Of course such prices cannot 
be paid on the market, hence the necessity for the grader. 
When the trapper gets his returns on his shipment he finds 
fhat all of his dark mink and marten were graded Light or 
pale-dark, although he himself knew very well that he had 
a lot of fine prime dark skins in his shipments. Again, 
perhaps the shipper may not know the distinction between 



486 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

light, pale-dark, medium and dark, and he may think that 
his skins ought to have been graded higher than they were, 
when, as a matter of fact, the expert could not fairly classify 
them higher. 

The matching and grading of furs is an art in itself, at 
which the amateur can readily find himself inexpert. The 
tare, however, has to come out of the shipper. If a big 
house that makes up fur garments buys five hundred marten 
skins it may offer a flat price of thirteen dollars for the 
lot, including all skins, from those of the prized blue shade 
to the coppery ones only suitable for blending or dying. 
Nearly all marten or sable garments are blended and are 
very much darker than any natural fur. Perhaps the coun- 
try shipper may take that flat price. Yet in the lot there 
may be a few dark skins worth twenty-five dollars each and 
perhaps twice that many that will be graded medium. Out 
of these dark skins the manufacturer will make up his 
fancy pieces — say, a stole and muff composed of twelve 
skins, retailing at several hundred dollars. These prices are 
a long wa}'- from what the original producer of the fur got. 
About the only recourse he has is that which is left to any 
other man engaged in business in this vale of tears. He 
must learn the values in his own business from the ground 
up and he must invoke the aid of competition. Co-opera- 
tion is not possible for him. When once he has found a 
dealer who treats him squarely he should stick to that dealer. 
When he knows that he has a choice piece of fur he ought 
not to be in a hurry to sell. Sometimes it pays a trapper 
to get on the train with his catch and go to the city himself. 
When he has had several graders pass on his catch he can 
have a better idea what he should get for it. 

The time has gone by when a fur collector can buy a 
choice marten for a string of beads. The average trapper 
is getting educated; even the Indians of Alaska and the up- 
per wilderness now hold out for big prices for their fur. 
None the less, some houses, widely known as buyers and 
called honorable, take junt a little from the trapper both in 
grading and in pricing. A few cents held out on each skin 
make a handsome total when the receipts are many hun- 
dreds each day. The big houses usually work to a certain 
scale of profit and their graders must make this good. The 



COMPLETF TRAPPERS GUIDE 487 

unscrupulous ones have all kinds of systems for beating 
the shipper. For instance, if the latter makes a howl about 
being told that his goods were received in poor condition, 
sometimes inferior furs are substituted and returned to him 
in place of those that he shipped. What chance has the 
traprper to prove the facts in a court of law? Suppose a 
shipper turns in a fine bunch of rat — call it a hundred skins 
— on each of which he expects to net fifty cents. The 
dealer jeturns him forty-seven cents a pelt, knowing that 
the skins grade high. It is not much of a steal and very 
likely the trapper stands for it; but this, kept up all day 
when thousands of ratskins are coming it, makes a lot of 
money. Some of these rapacious dealers grow bolder and 
bolder in their stealing. Again, some dealers advertise 
that they will pay the expressage on all shipments of furs 
sent to them. This looks good to the trapper or farmer 
boy, and he does not stop to reflect that, as a matter of 
fact, he himself is going to pa}' that expressage, somehow 
or somewhere, either in grade or price. 

Hence when you seek a dealer, be sure it is the most 
reliable old-time house that can absolutely be depended 
upon. 

Tricks of the Trade. 

Considerable fur is collected by country storekeepers. 
They buy the chance pelts brought in iby farmers, who also 
turn in wool, beefhides, rabbit skins: and the like. The 
hides have grades the same as furs, and it is not in the least 
unusual for unscrupulous dealers to falsify grades in hides 
and to make substitutions in shipments to brokers. Some- 
times a shipment of wool or hides is purposely thrown in 
with a lot of other stuf¥ of much inferior grade. The re- 
turns are then made on the average, or on the inferior grade, 
and not on that of the higher-priced shipment. In other 
words, the great commercial institutions of the city are play- 
ing for safety all the time and averaging their grades, offset- 
ting one shipper against the other. This means that the 
receipts of John Smith, in Ohio, are less than they ought 
to be because John Smith, in Oklahoma, has sent in furs 
of a poorer quality. There is, of course, no justice in this 
sort of thing. 



488 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

The Deadly Skunk Trap. 

A death-dealing trap is a good thing in handling a skunk, al- 
though sometimes a deadfall will not prevent the animal from 
emitting the efifluvium, A choking trap very often will leave the 
animal odorless. The banks of streams are usually desirable for 
the trapping of this animal. You will probably place your mink 
traps along the edges of little creeks, in paths in the grass, or 
around heaps of driftwood, where you find signs. A mink is 
a great creature to run into hollow logs, holes and cavities of 
all softs. You can even dig a hole in which to set your trap, 
although, if you change the earth much, it is better to throw 
water over your operations. A trap set at the openings to cul- 
vert drains has a big percentage of success. Mink also live 
under newly broken sods which the plow has left thrown up in 
ridges. 

The mink is a great traveler, especially after the late days in 
February, which is the running season for this animal. As it is 
hard to trap out all the mink in the country, even though it be 
in a long-settled farming region, the mink is well worth figuring 
on in the winter's profit list. After the running season begins 
it is desirable to use mink scent. This can be made from the 
musk-glands of the mink, which should be preserved and bot- 
tled. A small twig dipped into the liquid and dropped below or 
near the trap will be found sufficient. Of course, any flesh bait, 
like the head of a bird, a piece of rabbit or of fish, is attractive 
to the mink, but a little scent will usually help. A good way to 
use scent is to take elder-pith and drop on it a few drops of the 
liquid. A little piece of pith left around a trap or along the line 
will attract animals from great distances. The mink is easy to 
fool in this way. He will run up a log or a stump very readily. 
A good way to catch him is to set your trap on a little log, put 
on end so that it will never be buried by the snow. The trap 
is protected on top of this by a little house to keep out the snow. 
The trap that you set for mink and bait with pieces of meat has 
a good chance of getting a skunk, although the ground-set is 
better for this animal. 

It is very well known that most fur-bearing animals are them- 
selves hunters and all hunting animals would rather eat live bait 
than dead. Here we come into the nice question of what is and 
is not crueltv. Anglers for ages have used minnows and frogs 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 489 

as bait and we have become accustomed to that practice. Some- 
times a hve frog or even a hve minnow can be used as bait in 
a water-set ; and if you can keep aHve until winter — in a live- 
box — a lot of frogs, minno\v's, crawfish, and the Hke, you will 
find them very good for use in wintertime, even if you have 
to freeze them then. One trapper, who counsels this, advises the 
use of sparrows as live bait. He also counsels the employmeni: 
of field mice, and suggests calmly that these can be secured as 
bait and kept ahve by running a wire through the gambrel of 
the leg. ^The brutality and absolute lack of humaneness in this 
suggestion find little condonement in the retort that still more 
cruel things are done in fishing and shooting. If live bait is 
used it should be used unconfined and unharmed. There seems 
to be nothing intolerable in the thought of taking a rabbit in a 
box trap or even of taking a mink in a steel trap, but when it 
comes to using a live rabbit in a swing-door trap, as a bait for 
mink, a sort of sense of horror comes upon one at once! ]\Iost 
trappers, thank Providence, do not care to bother with live bait, 
although there is no doubt of its attractiveness. 

A marten is another predaceous little traveler, more of a 
climber than the mink, but also a great hunter among thickets, 
logs, and such things. In very cold weather it is well to pad 
your steel traps with deer hair, if you have any, to keep them 
from freezing or from stiffening up with snow. Throw a .few 
leaves or trash over the trap and house it so that it will not be 
buried in the snow. Bait with pieces of fish or bird and, when 
possible, use a spring pole to throw the marten in the air when 
it is caught. This is better with skunk, also, although not for 
the same reason. A suspended skunk is more apt to be peace- 
able, and a suspended marten is less apt to have its twenty-dollar 
coat eaten by some other animal. A fisher, or black-cat, or 
fisher-cat is larger than either of these animals, but in habits 
not very dissimilar; and the set for this animal should be about 
the same as the ground-set for marten or mink, although it is 
very much more powerful than either. 



Trapping Water Animals. 

Large water animals, like the beaver or otter, ought to be 
trapped in such a way that they will drown themselves promptly 
after being caught. The old way of setting an otter trap was 



490 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

Trappers Huts — Ho>v to Build. 




The Picture Tells the Story — 

A Few Tools and Plenty of Hard Work 

Does the Rest. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 491 

to press down into the water a long pole, along which the ring 
of the trap-chain played freely. A crotch or two was left stick- 
ing out under water, so that when the ring of the chain slipped 
down over the crotch it would not pull upward again. The ani- 
mal, thus held under water, would soon drown. Sometimes it is 
not easy to get a pole of this kind. To supply this deficiency 
an ingenious trapper has put on the market a substitute that is 
superior to the old device. This is simply a piece of wire that 
runs from the trap down into the water, where it is stretched 
by a stifk or by heavy !:tones. Toward the lower end in the 
water a sort of spearhead or barb of metal is laid, which pre- 
cisely takes the place of the old crotch. The trap-ring slips 
down the wire, of course, very readily, but not back. 

Probably rats and mink will make the best average profit for 
the boy or man who likes to get out in the wintertime. He can 
get baits enough from the home kitchen in default of anything 
better — fresh meat, chicken heads, and the like: Muskrats can 
be attracted with a mussel, left with the shell open. Sweet- 
flagroot, pieces of cornstalk, apples, parsnips, carrots, turnips — 
all will attract the muskrat. One trapper even suggests thorn 
apples. The muskrat is very liberal as a signmaker and is easy 
to trap, whether at houses or at runways and landing places. 
You can use vegetable bait, such as apples or persimmons, as 
well as fresh meat or pieces of fish, to catch the opossum. It 
prowls arouiMl logs and tree-tops, something like a raccoon, 
which latter animal is also easy to inveigle with vegetable bait. 
In these days even raccoon and opossum work up handsomely 
into near-sable, although the trapper very probably will not get 
nearly a sable price for them. 



The Muskrat and the Parsnip. 

Ferguson led the way to a small vine leading down to 
the river. There he pointed out a half sunken coal oil 
barrel which held four muskrats. The fuzzy creatures be- 
gan a terrible scrambling as the trapper leaned over the 
barrel. But they could not leap out, neither would their 
claws catch and hold in the oily sides. Over the barrel 
was suspended a lone parsnip. 

"That's the cause of their downfall," he said. "Muskrats 



492 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

will smell a parsnip 500 yards, and if there's anything they 
like better 'n parsnips it's more parsnips. They come to 
this barrel, crawl up on the outside, lean forward to get 
hold of that parsnip, and fall in. I've caught as many as 
nine in a barrel in one night. Their furs bring the most 
money in February and March, because the hair is tighter 
in the skin during that time. 

"Now, the coon is the cut-up of the woods. He has 
more deviltry in him than all the other animals put to- 
gether. He's always meddling into something he knows 
nothing about. Knowing that meddlesomeness, we catch 
him without trouble." 

Ferguson led the way to a log on the side of a hill. In 
it he had bored a hole about an inch in diameter and had 
poured some honey into the oipening. Then he had driven 
horseshoe nails in a slanting direction, so that the points 
extended into the hole. A coon might shove his foot into 
the hole with ease, but when he tried to pull it out again, 
the points of the nails caught in the flesh. Then Mr. Coon 
was a prisoner. 

"He'll eat off his foot to release himself from a steel trap," 
Ferguson said. "Did you ever set a ^bucket of water down 
beside a pet coon and watch his antics? The first thing he'll 
do will be to climb on the side of the bucket and feel all 
around the bottom for crawfish and mussels. If you tie a 
piece of tin or anything bright to a steel trap, he'll go to 
fooling around it to see what the bright thing is. He just 
can't keep from meddling. 

"The most plentiful of all animals in the Ozarks Is the 
'possum. Trappers watch it for weather signs. If, its fur 
is thick and heavy, they say it indicates that a heavy win- 
ter is coming. If it is light and loose, the winter will be 
light. When it is seen taking great loads of leaves into 
its hole, it is an indication that a hard winter is ahead. 

"During extremely cold weather men frequently skin 'pos- 
sums down here and slip their feet into the hides, wearing 
them instead of shoes. Those 'possum hides are warmer 
than the warmest shoe ever made. Does look queer, though, 
seeing a man come down the road wearing a pair of 'pos- 
sum hides for shoes." 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 493 

The "Carpenter of the Woods." 

The hardest animal to hold after it is caught, is the 
beaver. This "carpenter of the woods," as it is called, will 
eat off the lower part of its legs to escape from a steel 
trap. 

"The best system Pve ever found," the old trapper said, 
"is to set a steel trap on a dam, one end wired to a big 
stone and the other to a log. When the beaver is caught 
and is. thrashing around the trap he'll push the stone into 
the river, be dragged in himself, and drown while trying 
to eat his foot off. Unless the trap snaps him far up on the 
leg, he's bound to get away if you give him time." 

Almost any day during the week the hunters and trap- 
pers may be seen going into Lebanon with packs of skins 
for market. 

"We get fully o,000 skins each season, We get as many 
more of muskrats, coons, and 'possums. Probably a dozen 
otter are brought in to us and some 400 or 500 mink. One 
man caught twenty-nine mirik last winter, and another came 
in with eighty, but I think he had 'bought most of them 
from other trappers. Fox and wolf hides are fairly plenti- 
ful. Once in a while we get catamounts, and very often 
wild cats. We will handle between $15,000 and $25,000 
worth of furs in this locality each season. The Ozarks 
are teeming with valuable furs, and I believe fully 500 
men su-pport t^eir families each winter by trapping." 

The flesh of few of these beasts is good to eat. The 
'possum is supposed to be savory, but, on account of the 
excessive amount of fat, a few "messes" will do for a sea- 
son. The flesh of the muskrat, wild cat, catamount, wolf, 
fox, and beaver is unfit for use. However, a trapper in the 
Ozarks has no trouble while tending his traps in killing 
enough squirrels, rabbits and other small game to keep 
the larder stocked. Here and there throughout the forests 
you find a lone cabin, rustic, comfortable, and crude. 

"If we get enough hides to bring $25 a month we live 
just as easy and a blamed sight more happy than yoii fel- 
lows who make your hundreds in the city. We feel just 
as much out of place and lonely when we get to town as a 
catamount in a cage. The open air, freedom of the woods, 
enough to eat, and clothes to keep us warm, will do. You 
fellers may have the rest." 



404 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

TRAPPING IN THE OZARKS. 

Down in the Ozark mountains 500 families, probably 
more, are living this winter on the sale of furs and hides. 
Five hundred men are trapping for animals whose skins go 
to warm the arms and throats of women and make over- 
coats for men. Mink and beaver and otter are being caught, 
and hundreds of martens, muskrats, civet cats, possums, and 
coons are going into market. 

Trapping in the Ozarks is, to the outside world, an un- 
appreciated industry. Not many people know that some of 
the finest Western mink furs, the softest otter and beaver, 
come from the hills of southern Missouri. Down in those 
tangled forests along the Niangua and Osage rivers wild 
animals abound. 

Fully fifty men m.aking and laying traps for game, catch- 
ing otter and mink and beaver. 

"They charge the city women $200, they tell me, for a 
little bunch of mink furs. The most we ever get for one 
of the critter's skins is $4. Who gets the profit?" 

The following table tells what the trappers receive for 
"green," or untanned furs: 

Otter, $2 to $15. 

Beaver, $1 to $10. 

Mink, 50 cents to $4. 

Wolf, 50 cents to $2. 

Red fox, 50 cents to $2. 

Skunk, 25 cents to $1.50. 

Coon, 20 cents to $1. 

Gray Fox, 25 to 75 cents. 

W^ild Cat, 10 to 60 cents. 

Catamount, 10 to 60 cents. 

Opossum, 10 to 60 cents. 

Civet Cats, 10 to 20 cents. 

Muskrats, 5 to 20 cents. 

Deer, $1.50 to $2.50, bought by weight, usually at 25 cents 
a pound. 



COAIPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 495 

The range in prices is occasioned by the varying quality 
of the furs. 

Near Ha-ha-tonks, - the estate of the late Snyder, many 
trappers are staying this winter in their quest of furs. Ha- 
ha-tonka is in the wildest part of Camden county, thirty 
miles from a railroad. It is reached only by a rocky, tor- 
tuous road, that winds out from Lebanon and is a good day's 
drive from the town. The roughest of the Ozark hills and 
the deepest of the canyons are in this vicinity. Wild deer 
roam these hills. 

Spending much of his time in the heart of these woods, 
is a hunter, fisher and traipper, who for the greater part 
of forty years has made that country "home." He knows 
each cut and hill. He knows the haunts of the wild tur- 
key and the deer, and the likeliest places where other game 
is found. He has trapped in all parts of southern Mis- 
souri. He talks interestingly of wild animals and how they 
are caught. 

"Trappin's not what it used to 'be .down here, People 
coming in on all sides have driven the game back. Still, you 
can get track of deer and wild turkey and wild chicken, 
too. The otter are rapidly disappearing, as are the mink 
and beaver. A few more years and the trapping days in 
Missouri will be over. 

"The hardest thing in all the Ozarks to catch is the 
otter. Its burrow begins beneath the water's edge and 
slants upward, and there is no way to tell where these bur 
rows are. But if you watch closely along the river bank 
you'll see a smooth slide leading down into the water. Ir-. 
the winter these slides become covered with ice. Set a 
steel clutch trap on this slide and wait. In a few days an 
otter will dart down it. He'll bump into the jaws of that 
clutch and have business there until you release him. A 
trapper will do well if he catches four or five otter in a 
season. 

"It is hunger that brings most animals into traps. Curi- 
osity gets some. A piece of rabbit or bird will lead a mink 
beneath a deadfall. The same bait will attract the civet cat 
and the groundhog. But this kind of game won't go with 
a dozen other animals down here, you got to know what's 
what." 



496 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



TRAPPING IN ILLINOIS. 

Fur Bearing Animals That Are Caught East of the 

Mississippi. 

The "varmints" are by no means exterminated in the 
territory east of the Mississippi river. Morgan county is 
the center of the trapping industry of Illinois. Four men 
Avho have their headquarters near the Illinois river handle 
$100,000 v^orth of pelts each year, all going to London and 
other European points. 

These skins come from all sections of central Illinois, 
and the annual shipment numbers about 150,000, principally 
of raccoon, skunk and muskrat. About 500 fox hides are 
received each year. The number of mink skins runs up to 
10,000. 

Wolf pelts and skins from the common house cat, the 
latter being used in the cheapest class of coats. Muskrats 
are the most common fur-coated animal and over 75,000 
meet an untimely fate every year in this state. 

Trappers find that the muskrats are the most easily 
caught, and they help to increase the hunters' income when 
more profitable animals are scarce. The Morgan county 
firm ships no less than 30,000 skunk skins abroad each year. 
When the hides are purchased from the trappers they are 
fitted over a pole resembling an ironing board and the 
cleaners scrape off with drawing knives the bits of flesh 
which adhere to the skin. These scraps form a big source 
of profit, for from mixture of skunk, raccoon and opos- 
sum flesh is boiled a harness oil which nets about 40 cents 
per gallon. The pelts are packed in bales five feet long and 
contain all the way from 800 to 2,000 pelts, according to 
size. 

The shipping charge is a heavy item of expense, owing 
to the distance. Many attemipts have been made in various 
parts of Illinois to establish skunk farms and raise the 
animals for their hides, but it is said that this scheme has 
never proved profitable for the reason that the cannibalistic 
instincts of the parents cannot be restrained, the young 
being eaten by the old animals soon after they are born. 
It is also difficult to prevent the animals from escaping by 
^burrowing under the wire inclosures. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 497 

Steel traps are the common means of taking fur today. 
There is a steel trap on the market, or rather a trap made 
of steel, which catches an animal around the neck and 
chokes it to death; and there are one or two traps made 
that deal the animal a blow upon the dead at the moment 
the trap springs. This is something like the principle of 
the old deadfall, which always was far more merciful than 
the stee] trap. These different forms of death-dealing traps 
are worth investigating, if only for the reason that the live 
animal will sometimes eat ofif its own foot and escape from 
the trap. 

Water animals, like muskrats, otters, mink, and the like, soon 
drown when held below the surface of the water. You can 
make for yourself, out of wire screening, a trap with a swing- 
ing gate, like the multiple rat trap. By using this at the en- 
trance of rat houses or channels you can very often catch a num- 
ber of rats at once or sometimes more than one mink. The 
rats very soon drown. You can use box traps of this sort, 
made out of screening, to catch land animals, but then you must 
cover up any metal parts with dirt, leaves or trash as much as 
possible, excepting the body of the trap itself, which will be all 
the better for the light shining through it. 



TRAPPERS' AND HUNTERS' SECRETS 

The following secret applies to all animals, as every ani- 
mal is attracted by the peculiar odor in a greater or less 
degree; but it is best adapted to land animals, such as foxes, 
minks, sables, martens, wolves, bears, wild cats, etc. 

Take one-half pound strained honey, one-quarter drachm 
musk, three drachms oil of lavender, and four pounds of 
tallow; mix thoroughly together. The above preparation 
will attract all kinds of animals. 



TO CATCH FOXES 

Take oil of amber and beaver's oil, each equal parts, and 
i^ub them over the trap before setting it. Set in the usual 
way. 



498 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

TO CATCH MINK 

Take oil of amber and muskrat's oil, and rub over the 
trap. Bait with fish or birds. 



SCENT BAIT FOR CATCHING FISH 

Put tlie'oil of rhodium on the bait, when fishing with a 
hook. 



TO CATCH FISH 

Take the juice of smallage or lovage, and mix with any 
kind of bait. 



CHINESE ART OF CATCHING FISH 

Take Cocculus Indicus, pulverize and mix with dough, 
then scatter it over the still water where fish frequent. Fish 
will seize it with great avidity, and will become so intoxi- 
cated that thej^ will turn belly up on top of the water, and 
as you gather them put them in a tub of clean water, and 
presently they will be as lively and healthy as ever. 

This means of taking fish, and the manner of doing it, 
has, heretofore, been known to but few. The value of such 
knowledge admits of no question. This manner of taking 
fish does not injure the flesh in the least. 



RATES OF SPEED AT WHICH BIRDS FLY PER 

HOUR 

Birds Miles. 

Hawks 150 

Sparrows 92 

Ducks 90 

Falcon 74 

Crows 25 

Fair winds make their flight much more rapid. ' 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 4&9 

BROWNING AND BRONZING LIQUID FOR 
GUN BARRELS 

Aqua Fortis and Sweet Spirits Xitre each half an ounce, 
Sulphate Copper 2 ounces, Water 30 ounces, Tincture Muriate 
Iron one ounce. 

Mix and appl}' as above. 



STAIN FOR TWISTED GUN BARRELS 

Take of Tincture of Sesquichloride of iron half an ounce, 
corrosive sublimate one drachm, sulphate of copper half a 
drachm, nitric acid one drachm to one drachm and a half, 
spirits of wine six drachms, water eight ounces. Dissolve 
the corrosive sublimate in the spirits of wine, then add the 
solution to the other ingredients, and let the whole stand for 
a month or six weeks, when it will be ready for use. 

The barrels to be stained should first be carefully cleaned 
with lime, and, this being removed, the browning mixture 
is laid on with a sponge five or six times a day, till the color 
is dark enough to suit the fancy. Once or twice a day a 
scratch-brush should be used to remove the rough oxide, 
and allow the acid to get a deeper bite. When it is con- 
sidered that enough has been done, boiling water must be 
poured over the barrels for several minutes, and, while hot, 
rub them with flannel, and finish with a leather and a little 
beeswax and turpentine. 



WOODS FOR FUEL 

Taking shellbark hickory as the highest standard of our 
forest trees, other trees will compare with it in real value, 

for fuel, as follows: 

Shellbark Hickory 1067^ 

Pignut Hickory 95% 

White Oak ■ 84% 

White Ash 77% 

Dogwood 75% 

Scrub-Oak 73% 



500 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



White Hazel 72% 

Apple Tree 70% 

White Beech 69% 

Black Birch 65% 

Hard Maple ' 65% 

Black Walnut 62% 

Yellow Oak 60% 

White Elm 58% 

Red Oak 56% 

Red Cedar 56% 

Wild Cherry 55% 

Yellow Pine 54% 

Chestnut 52% 

Yellow Poplar 51% 

Butternut 43% 

White Birch 43% 

White Pine 30% 



CHARCOAL POULTICE 

Make a bread and water poultice in the usual way, then 
sprinkle finely powdered charcoal over it, and apply. Valu- 
able for cleansing old sores, and for arresting mortification. 



MUSTARD POULTICE 

Mix ground mustard with boiling water to the consis- 
tency of paste; spread on thick linen, or brown paper, cov- 
ered with thin muslin. Apply for a few minutes only, unless 
it is necessary to produce a blister. Used chiefly as a 
counter-irritant in acute pain and congestion. 



SLIPPERY-ELM POULTICE 

Powdered elm bark and boiling water formed into a 
thin paste. Sometimes a small portion of laudanum is 
added, which makes a grateful application to abscesses, 
felons, painful bruises, etc. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 501 

STARCH POULTICE 

Make a smooth, moderately thick paste of starch and 
boiling water in the usual manner, and spread upon linen 
cloth. Useful in cases of irritable and inflamed skin erup- 
tions. 



POISON IVY AND SUMACS 

Tlrcre are two poison Sumacs — the Poison Ivy and 
the Swamp Sumac. Poison Ivy can be told from Wood- 
bine, because it has three leaflets instead of five. 

The Sumac which bears its red fruit aloft is harmless. 
The Sumac which has drooping greenish-white flowers is 
poison. 

Note — The specific cure for Ivy and Sumac poisoning is 
a saturated solution of sugar of lead in a 75 per cent, solu- 
tion of alcohol. 

Poison mushrooms all have the bulbous enlargement at 
the base of the stem; some have cup-like joints, and most 
are showy and flaunting, with white gills. 

The common meadow mushroom is small and modest, 
has pink or purple gills, and never has bulbous enlargement 
or cup-like joint. 



THE TALE OF A WOLVERINE 

Oh, woful the wail o' the wanderin' wolf 

When the pack hez scattered afar. 
An' they turn to the shades from their midnight raids 

At the glint o' the mornin' star! 
An' thrillin' withal the amorous call 

Of the moose to his mate unseen! 
But these all pale at that horrible wail — 

The cry o' the wolverine! 

We've trapp'd an' tracked, canoed an' packed 

This Northland everj'where, 
Hev made our bed with th' furs o' the dead 

An' th' robes o' the grizzly bear. 
We've shot the 'coon when the light o* the moon 



502 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



Threw his form on the leafy screen, 
But our trusty gun has got but one 
Square crack at a wolverine. 

It was Kootenay like, if we don't mistake, 

Saw our camp in eighty-five. 
An' the fust three weeks brought nine bear steaks 

An' beaver forty-five; 
Till our line o' traps — too long, perhaps — 

In miles some seventeen — 
Was robbed each night, be it dark or light, 

By a cuss of a wolverine. 

Then we swore by the sling ol' Nimrod swung 

An' the ball pouch o' Napper Bill — 
Blow high or low, no rest we'd know 

Till the varmint w^e should kill! 
An'' nex' night's snow did plainly show 

Where our enemy had been. 
For that thievin' chap had cleaned each trap — 

That gluttonous wolverine! 

We followed his trail by hill an' dale 

The best of a winter's day, 
Till our faithful dog by a swampy bog 

Brought the crafty beast to bay! 
How he yowled an' yapped an' snarled an' snapped, 

As we wiped the peep sight clean! 
Then a sure soft point threw his neck out o' joint 

An' that settled that wolverine! 



By the camp fire's roar on the lake's wild shore 

The trapper counts his spoil 
An' views with pride each well trimmed hide 

As he rests from his hardy toil. 
Ah! those care free days o' the woods an' their ways 

Still live in our memory green. 
Like the pride we felt with his pelt at our belt — 

The hide o' that wolverine. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 503 

POISONOUS REPTILES IN THE UNITED 

STATES 

Compared with the number of species of harmless 
snakes, the poisonous species are much in the minority; 
yet it should be understood that the United States is won- 
derfully rich in reptile life. One hundred and eleven spe- 
cies of snakes are found in this country; of this number 
seventeen are poisonous. Besides, there are ninety-seven 
species of lizards; but of the latter only a single species 
is venomous, and this is the Gila Monster, of the South- 
west. 

Practically every portion of the United States is inhab- 
ited by poisonous snakes. The majority of the species are 
found in the southern latitudes, though the few northern 
species are so abundant that venomous snakes are actually 
more common in some sections of Pennsylvania and New 
York than in the South. 

Despite the general occurrence of dangerous reptiles in 
this country, accidents to man are rarely recorded. This 
may seem remarkable in the fact of an explanation, that 
there are over twenty thousand deaths annually in India 
from the bites of serpents. But it should be realized that 
in India a large part of the population goes about bare- 
legged, while the poisonous snakes prowl into the imme- 
diate domains of man — even into the gardens and under 
houses. 

List of North American Poisonous Serpents 

From the standpoint of classification the venomous 
snakes of the United States fall into several groups. Fol- 
lowing is a list to show their arrangement and kind: 

Elapine Snakes 

Common Coral Snake, elaps fulvius, the Southeast. 
Sonoran Coral Snake, elaps euryxanthus, the Southwest. 



504 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

Crotaline Snakes 

1. The Moccasins 

Copperhead Snake, ancistrodon contortrix, eastern U. S. 
Water Moccasin, ancistrodon piscivorus, the Southeast. 

2. Dwarf Rattlesnakes 

Massasauga, sistrurus catenatus, Central Region. 
Pigmy Rattlesnake, sistrurus miliarius, the Southeast. 

3. Typical Rattlesnakes 

Tim'ber Rattlesnake, crotalus horridus, eastern U. S. 

Diamond-Back Rattlesnake, crotalus adamanteus, the 
Southeast. 

Prairie Rattlesnake, crotalus confluentus, Prairie Region. 

Pacific Rattlesnake, crotalus oregonus. Pacific Region. 

Texas Rattlesnake, crotalus atrox, Texas to California. 

White Rattlesnake, crotalus mitchellii, the Southwest. 

Tiger Rattlesnake, crotalus tigris, the Southwest. 

Black-tailed Rattlesnake, crotalus molossus, the South- 
west. 

Price's Rattlesnake, crotalus pricei, the Southwest. 

Green Rattlesnake, crotalus lepidus, the Southwest. 

Horned Rattlesnake, crotalus cerastes, the Southwest. 

From the preceding list of the typical rattlesnakes it will 
be seen that the Southwest forms the headquarters of these 
characteristic serpents. 



Classification of Our Poisonous Snakes 

As will presently be explained, the North American dan- 
gerous snakes may be easily distinguished — except two, and 
these are the Coral Snakes, having a slender body and a 
head not at all distinct from the neck; in fact, looking pre- 
cisely like the harmless reptiles. And they actually belong 
to the same family as the innocuous serpents — the Colu- 
bridae. This family is divided into a number of subfami- 
lies. The cobras and their deadly allies of the Old World, 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 505 

and the Coral Snakes of the New World form one of these 
subfamilies — the Elapinae. From the typical harmless snakes 
they differ only in the possession of a very short, fixed pair 
of venom-conducting teeth in the forward part of the upper 
jaw — and by the absence of a small scale on each side of 
the head (the loreal plate), between the eye and the nostril. 
Fortunately, such deceptive-looking reptiles are limited to 
two species in the United States. As they are peculiarly 
f colored,- they may be recognized with little diiTficulty. 



How to Tell the Coral Snakes 

Both of the species of the Elaps inhabit the southern 
part of the country. The Common Coral Snake or Harle- 
quin Snake occurs from southern North Carolina to Florida 
and westward to Texas. It is most abundant in Georgia, 
Florida, Alabama and Louisiana. The Sonoran Coral Snake 
is restricted to Arizona, New Mexico and northern Mexico. 
Both of the species are vividly ringed with scarlet, yellow 
and black — the red and black rings the broadest. Their 
pattern is wonderfully beautiful, imparting a really artifi- 
cial aspect, like a gaudy necklace. 

Described in detail, the pattern of the Coral Snakes may 
be given as broad, alternating rings of red and black, the 
latter bordered with very narrow rings of yellow. And here 
we encounter a difficulty: for several harmless snakes 
"mimic" these species in displaying exactly the same colors 
and arranged in ring-like fashion. Yet there is one un- 
varying difference that will always distinguish the danger- 
ous reptile from their innocuous "imitators," as the yellow 
rings of the poisonous snakes always border the black 
rings, while among the non-venomous snakes there zie pairs 
of black rings bordering a yellow one. 

The Coral Snakes are rather secretive in habits and are 
often ploughed up in the fields. They feed mostly upon 
small species of innocuous serpents. 



506 complIete trappers guide 

The Poison Apparatus 

The Crotaline Snakes, the Rattlesnakes, Copperhead and 
the Moccasin may be easily told. Before dealing with their 
characters let us understand what kind of apparatus figures 
in the formidable injuries they inflict, sometimes causing 
death, with man in a few hours — and, more rarely, within a 
few minutes' time. 

These snakes do not sting. The injury they inflict is a 
bite, dealt with a pair of hoUov/ teeth on the upper jaw. 
These teeth have an opening at their tip for the ejection of 
venom. They are exactly like the hypodermic needles, and 
mankind has, in fact, copied the structure of the serpent's 
fangs in manufacturing that invaluable instrument of medical 
surgery. 

Each fang connects with a gland behind the eye, and this 
secretes a poison which nature has intended to be used in 
purposes of killing the prey — incidentally for self-defense. 
When the mouth is closed the fangs fold back against the 
upper jaw. 

Thus we may understand the venom apparatus. It is in 
no way connected with the forked tongue. That organ is 
used solely for the purpose of feeling; hence it is not 
a sting. 



How to Distinguish the Crotaline Snakes 

As will be seen on the list, we have three groups of ven- 
omous snakes in North America — the coral snakes, the 
moccasins and the rattle-snakes. The characteristics of the 
coral snakes have already been treated, while we may dis- 
pose of the rattle-snakes with a simple suggestion and that 
is to look for the rattle, a prominent ^nd an absolutely unique 
organ among snakes. Its presence immediately brands the 
owner. There is no possibility of making a mistake. While 
there are a number of species of rattle-snakes, the charac- 
teristic naturally appeals to all. The amateur naturalist, 
prospector or the farmer is not so particular as to the exact 



COMPLETE TRAPPE'RS GUIDE 507 

species; what they are desirous of ascertaining is, whether 
a snake is dangerous; and the possession of a rattle shows 
this to be invariably the case. 

Thus we understand how to recognize all of the North 
American poisonous snakes except the moccasins — two spe- 
cies; they must be treated with more detail. 

It is a mistake to think that a poisonous snake may be 
told by a, thick body and a flat, triangular head that is quite 
distinct from the neck. Many wholly innocuous species have 
exactly these outlines and many of them are proportionately 
stouter of body and uglier in appearance than the danger- 
ous copperhead snake or highland moccasin. 



The Moccasin and the Copperhead Snake 

The two North American moccasins — the water moccasin, 
Ancistrodon piscivorus and the copperhead snake (Highland 
Moccasin or pilot snake), Ancistrodon contortrix, belong, 
as do the rattle-snakes, to the sub-family of pit vipers — Cro- 
talinae. On each side of the head, between the eye and the 
nostril, is a deep pit. Here we have a character by which 
to immediately determine them. But there are other points: 
while our harmless snakes have two rows of plates on the 
under surface of the tail, these two poisonous species have 
a single row of plates for the greater length of the tail. Our 
harmless snakes have the pupil of the eye round; the water 
moccasin and the copperhead snake have an elliptical — cat- 
like — pupil. 

The moccasin is dull olive, with wide, black transverse 
bands. It abounds in the swamps and sluggish waterways 
of South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama and Louisiana. 
The copperhead snake is pale, hazel brown; crossing this 
ground color are rich, reddish brown bands, narrow on the 
back and very wide on the sides — appearing, when examined 
from above, to have the outlines of an hour-glass. The top 
of the head often shows a decidedly coppery tinge, hence the 
popular name. 



508 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 



Poisonous Snakes in the Eastern States 



1 



In the New England States and the Middle Atlantic 
States, there are but two species of poisonous snakes. 
These are the timber rattle-snake and the copperhead 
snake. The black snake, water snake, flat-headed "Adder," 
checkered "Adder," and other serpents with formidable 
titles found in those areas are absoluely harmless. If we 
include the lake region and the Ohio valley we must in- 
clude another poisonous species, the Massassauga; this is 
a small rattle-snake of a slaty gray hue marked with a 
chain of deep brown blotches. 

South of central North Carolina, thence throughout the 
Gulf States, we find several more venomous species, as 
follows: 

The diamond rattle-snake. Largest and most deadly of 
any of the North American serpents. It attains a length 
of eight feet and is beautifully marked with a chain of yellow- 
ish rhombs on an olive ground-color. 

The pigmy rattle-snake. A diminutive, slaty-gray species, 
closely related to the Massassauga. There are jet black 
blotches on the back and a reddish band on the neck. 

The water moccasin. A semi-aquatic species. 

The coral snake. Previously described. 

Thus we have an idea of the various dangerous snakes 
of the eastern states. Incidentally it might be said that 
the timber rattle-snake and the copperhead snake range 
southward to the northern portion of the Florida peninsula. 
In the extreme south the copperhead also extends its range 
westward to the Rio Grande, in Texas. The distribution of 
the western poisonous snakes may be at once appreciated 
by an examination of a list on a preceding page. 



Erroneous Theories Concerning Poisonous Snakes 

It is quite wrong to imagine a poisonous snake springs 
at an enemy. It never jumps from the ground and seldom 
strikes more than a third its length. Poisonous snakes 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 509 

never chase an enemy. Their attitude toward man is merely 
that of self defense. 

It is not necessary for a rattle-snake to coil before strik- 
ing. It can strike from .a crawling position, provided the 
neck can be doubled into an S-shaped loop to lurch the 
head forward. 

It is impossible to render a venomous snake permanently 
harmless by extracting the tangs, as a number of auxiliary 
fangs are ready to take the place of the functional pair 
within a 'couple of weeks. 



Treatment of Snake Bite 

What to carry in the field: Every field naturalist and 
prospector venturing into regions known to be the lurking 
places of venomous snakes should carry certain articles to 
be used in case of accident. These are comparatively simple. 
Following is a list of them: 

A hypodermic syringe, a rubber ligature, several sharp 
scalpels (or a razor), a jar of antiseptic gauze, material for 
outside bandage (boiled cheesecloth), a jar of permanganate 
of potassium (crystals), several tubes of anti-toxin (anti- 
venomous serum), some strychnine tablets, a flask of 
whiskey. 

The entire outfifit can be carried in the capacious pockets 
of an ordinary khaki shooting jacket, if necessary. The 
writer speaks from experience: 

What to do^if bitten: Invariably, the injury is upon some 
part of the arm or leg. Everything depends upon the 
promptitude in performing the first two precautions. 

1st. Apply the ligature a short distance above the bite. 
Thus the ligature should be carried in a pocket that is im- 
mediately available, without a second's loss in a fumble. 

2nd. Enlarge the punctures by cutting into them, at 
least as deep as they are. Make two cuts over each, these 
cuts crossing one another. This cutting starts a flow of the 
poisoned blood, which should be accelerated in every way 
possible. It is not dangerous to suck the blood away pro- 



510 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

viding there are no cuts or fresh abrasions in the mouth or 
on the lips. In this way much venom may be drawn from 
the wounds. If a stream is nearby, wash the wounds 
thoroughly, then bathe them repeatedly in a solution com- 
posed of permanganate of potash crystals in water to pro- 
duce a deep wine color. 

If no doctor is near'by, the antitoxin should be injected 
by means of the hypodermic sj^ringe, in some part of the 
body where it will gain the general circulation — preferably 
under the skin of the abdomen. In a succeeding para- 
graph it will be explained where this product may be 
obtained. 

If constitutional symptoms develop — weakness and giddi- 
ness, a hypodermic injection of strychnine must be adminis- 
tered. As a stimulant, taken in very moderate quantities, 
brandy is invaluable. 

After the wounds have been thoroughly bled and washed 
with the permanganate, the ligature may be removed, but 
not until every measure has 'been employed to draw the 
venom from the bitten part; these measures including suc- 
tion and massage. 

At this stage there is but one thing to do if that is pos- 
sible. Journey to the nearest doctor of repute; for grave 
symptoms, beyond the power of any but a medical man to 
combat, may possibly develop. 

If a doctor is out of the question, keep your head. You 
will need to think, and with great care. Take a cathartic. 
Keep the wounds absolutely clean and remember that tissue 
that has been weakened by snake poison is peculiarly sus- 
ceptible to common blocd poisoning. Pack small bits of 
gauze into the wounds to keep them open and draining, 
then dress over them with gauze saturated with any good 
antiseptic solution. Keep the dressing saturated and the 
pounds open for at least a week, no matter how favorable 
may be the symptoms. 

The writer has talked with many men of good, practical 
reasoning powers, who have been bitten by snakes and en- 
tirely recovered while miles from civilization. They have 
employed methods similar to those described. 

Before leaving the town behind you, consult a good doc- 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 511 

tor. Learn how to properly use a hypodermic syringe and 
the amount of strychnine your system will endure. 

The anti-toxin, technically known as anti-venine, is a 
foreign product and apparently the best of the so-calted 
antidotes for snake bite, as it is manufactured and does 
its work along lines well understood and practical. It may 
be obtained from the agencies of the Pasteur Institute, one 
of which is situated in New York City. 

Once again let the writer advise the sufferer: 
Keep your head. Do not give way to despondency. There 
is every reason why a healthy man should recover, and 
quickly, too, from a bite from any of the greater number 
of the venomous snakes in the United States. But the 
proper means to save life should be executed promptly and 
systematically. 

Rattlesnake Poison Remedy 

Bromine gr. 100 

Diluted Alcohol fl. oz. 8 

Potassium Iodide gr. 4 

Corrosive Sublimate gr. 2 

Mix the bromine and alcohol, place the other ingredients 
in a vessel and add sufficient of the bromine-alcohol solution 
to dissolve them. 



American and Canadian Trappers Association Badges. 





Fnmished by the Pnblishers. 



512 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

TRAPPERS CAMP KITCHEN AND COOKERY 

Genuine Montana Steak 

One pound lean mutton free from bone, 1 egg, ^*cup milk^ 

1 teaspoon salt, ^-g teaspoon pepper, few drops onion juice. 

Chop the meat finely, add the other ingredients, form into 
small cakes, and either broil or fry them. While this dish is 
more delicate if the egg and milk are used, it can be made 
without them. In this case it resembles very closely Ham- 
burg steak as it is ordinarily prepared from beef. It may be 
made with or without onion. 

Beef or Mutton Broth 

Three pounds beef or mutton from the neck, 2 quarts cold 
water, 3 tablespoons rice or barley, 1 teaspoon salt. 

Wipe the meat, remove the skin and fat, and cut the meat 
into small pieces. Put into the kettle with bones, and cover 
with the water. Heat gradually to the boiling point and 
season with salt and with pepper if liked. Cook slowly until 
the meat is tender, strain, and remove the fat. Rehea-t to boil- 
ing point, add the I'ice or barley, and cook until the rice or 
barley is tender. If barley is used, soak it over night in cold 
water. 

Curry of Mutton or any Meats 

Two pounds meat from the fore quarter, 1 onion, 1 table- 
spoon vinegar, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 teaspoon curry powder, 
salt, boiling water. 

Cut off small portions of the fat and try them out. Re- 
move the unmelted portions, and in the remainder fry the 
meat until it is a delicate brown. Add the onions and pour 
over all enough boiling water barely to cover. Cook until 
the meat is tender. Add the curry powder, vinegar, and salt. 
Remove the meat, reduce the broth to one cup, and thicken it 
with flour diluted with cold water. Add the meat to the 
gravy and reheat. Serve with rice. 

Syrian Stew 

Two cups raw meat or mutton cut into cubes, 2i table- 
spoons fat, 3 tablespoons flour, 2 cups string beans, 2 onions^ 

2 cups tomatoes, salt, water. 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 513 

Dredge the meat with the flour and brown it in the fat. 
Put all the ingredients in a stewpan, scraping from the fry- 
ing pan all of the flour and fat, and add enough water barely 
to cover. Cook slowly until the meat is tender. 

Meat and Potato Pie 

One pound meat from the shoulder, 1 onion, i^ cup flour, 
1 carrot, 6 medium-sized potatoes, 1 teaspoon baking powder, 
1 tablespoon butter, salt. 

Cook the onions, carrots, and meat together in water 
enough to cover. Boil the potatoes separately. Reserve 
enough of the potatoes to make a cup of mashed potatoes. 
Cut the remaining potatoes and the other vegetables and 
meat into small pieces, and place in a baking dish. Cover 
with some of the broth thickened with flour. Mash the re- 
maining potatoes. Add butter and salt. Mix this with the 
flour which has been thoroughly sifted with the baking pow- 
der. Spread this mixture over the ingredients in the bak- 
ing dish, and bake in a hot oven until the crust is brown. 
To remove the odor of mutton soak in vinegar over night 
especially if an old male. 

Stewed Sheep's Hearts 

Two sheep's hearts, 2 ounces fat salt pork, 2 tablespoons 
minced onion, 2 tablespoons flour, ^4 teaspoon pepper, 1V2 
pints boiling water, salt. 

Split and wash the hearts, season them with the salt and 
pepper, and roll them in the flour. Try out the pork, and add 
the onions to the pork fat and cook them 10 minutes. At the 
end of that time, remove the pork and onions to a stewpan 
and fry the hearts in the fat. Transfer hearts to the stew- 
pan. Rinse the frying pan with the water, which should then 
be poured over the hearts. Use the flour that remains after 
the hearts are rolled to thicken the broth. Cook the hearts in 
the grav}' for three hours. 

Brown Gravy for Roast Meat 

In making gravy for roast mutton or any other roast meat, 
allow 2 level tablespoons of fat for each cup of gravy desired, 
pouring ofiF any in excess of this amount. To the fat add 3 



514 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

tablespoons of flour and cook thoroughly, browning it, but 
being very careful not to burn it. Add boiling water or broth 
and boil for a short time, stirring constantly. Add salt and 
pepper. The proportions are 2 tablespoons of fat, 3 table- 
spoons of flour, and 1 cup of water or stock. If the flour is 
not browned, only 2 level tablespoons are needed for each cup. 

Currant-Jelly Gravy 

A gravy flavored and made acid with currant jelly is often 
served with roast meats. To each cup of brown gravy made 
from the fat of roast meat add a glass of currant jelly or less. 
As noted elsewhere, the addition of currant jelly is specially 
suitable when cold meat is to be warmed up in gravy. 

Mint Sauce and Mint Jelly 

One-fourth cup finely chopped mint leaves, 1 tablespoon 
powdered sugar, J^ cup vinegar, J/2 teaspoon salt. 

Combine the ingredients and let the mixture stand in a 
warm place until the flavor of the mint has penetrated the 
liquid. 

Mint sauce, which is so generally relished with roast 
meats, may be made from, either the fresh or the dried spear- 
mint. Mint jelly, which is also popular, can be made by 
stiffening mint sauce with gelatin. For this purpose one- 
half tablespoonful of gelatin soaked in cold water enough 
to cover it may be used with a cup of mint sauce made as 
above from freshly chopped mint. 

Tomato Rarebit. 

Two tablespoonfuls of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 
^i cupful of milk, 34 cupful of stewed and strained toma- 
toes, % teaspoonful of soda, 1 pound of cheese, 2 eggs 
slightly beaten, salt, mustard, cayenne pepper. 

Cook the butter and the flour together, add the milk, and 
as soon as the mixture thickens add tomatoes and soda. 
Then add cheese, eggs, and seasoning. Serve on toasted 
whole wheat or Graham bread. 

Green Corn, Tomato, and Cheese 

One tablespoonful of butter, 2 cups of grated cheese, ^ 



•COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 515 

cup of canned or grated fresh corn, 1 ripe pimento, ^ cup 
of tomato puree, 2 egg yolks, 1 teaspoonful of salt, V2 tea- 
spoonful of paprika, 1 clove or garlic, 4 slices of bread. 

Into the melted butter stir the cheese until it, too, is 
melted. Then add the corn and pimento, stir for a moment 
and add the egg yolks beaten and mixed with the tomato 
juice and the salt and paprika. Have ready the bread 
toasted on one side and very lightly rubbed on its un- 
toasted* side with the garlic cut in two. Pour the mixture 
over the untoasted side of the bread and serve at once. A 
poached egg is sometimes placed on top of each portion, 
making a very nutritious combination. 

Macaroni and Cheese No. 1 

One cupful of macaroni, broken into small pieces; 2 
quarts of boiling salted water, 1 cupful of milk, 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, % to ^/^ pound of cheese, >^ teaspoonful of salt, 
speck of cayenne pepper. 

Cook the macaroni in the boiling salted water, drain in 
a strainer, and pour cold water o\fer it to prevent the 
pieces from adhering to each other. Make a sauce out of 
the flour, milk, and cheese. Put the sauce and macaroni in 
alternate layers in a buttered baking dish, cover with but- 
tered crumbs, and heat in oven until crumbs are brown. 

Macaroni and Cheese No. 2 

' A good way to prepare macaroni and cheese is to make 
a rich cheese sauce and heat the macaroni in it. The mix- 
ture is usually covered with buttered crumbs and browned 
in the oven. The advantage of this way of preparing the 
dish, however, is that it' is unnecessary to have a hot oven, 
as the sauce and macaroni may be reheated on the top of 
the stove. 

Macaroni with Cheese and Tomato Sauce 

Boiled macaroni may be heated in tomato sauce and 
sprinkled with grated cheese just before serving. 

Spaghetti or ItaUan Macaroni and Cheese 

One cupful of macaroni broken into small pieces, 2 quarts 
of boiling saUed water, V2 onion, 2 cloves, l^/^ cupfuls of 
tomato sauce, ^ cupful or more of grated cheese. 



516 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE ' 



Cook the macaroni in the boiling salted water with the 
onion and cloves. Drain, remove the onion and cloves, re- 
heat in tomato sauce, and serve with grated cheese. 



SELF-RAISING FLOUR (to make) 

Reduce separately by grinding, to impalpable powders: 
Bicarbonate of Soda, 1 pound; Cream of Tartar, 2^/3 pounds; 
Salt, 1% pounds. These should be intimately mixed to- 
gether, with 100 pounds of fine flour. 



FILLING FOR PIES 

Pumpkin — One pound stewed pumpkin, three spoons of 
sugar, one tablespoon molasses syrup, y^ spoonful of gin- 
ger, cinnamon, nutmeg, pinch of salt, and ^ cup milk or 
cream. 

Custard — Five tablespoonfuls sugar, three eggs, 1^ cups 
milk, tablespoonful cornstarch or flour, pinch nutmeg and 
salt. 



POINTERS 

If Cooking is Too Salt — If your soup or stews become 
too salty put in a few sliced raw potatoes. They will take 
up the salt. 

To Preserve Bread — Scorch or charcoalize the exterior 
and it will keep fresh inside. The baking of the outside 
keeps the air from entering and preserves it. This is useful 
when going on a long trip or journey as it may be wrapped 
in paper that has been oiled, greased and dried, then wrapped 
in a damp cloth so as to keep a fairly moist exterior. In 
certain countries this charred bread is kept for years. 

Bread Baked on Hot Stones — Take a flat, thick stbne, 
have your bread dough thin and very stiff and bake over a 
very slow fire in a large flat cake. If the heat is right it 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 517 

will take nearly half a day, but needs no attention except 
turning occasionally and a regular, steady, slow heat. If 
flour is scarce, coarse ground meal, corn, nuts, grains, rice, 
beans, seeds, peas, bran, etc., can be used, merely mixed into 
water and salt without yeast or baking powder and as the 
unleavened bread of olden times. 

Leavened Bread is simply the fermented, or partly fer- 
mented, dough which is put aside until it becomes partly 
sour — in this case a little sugar is added — and a little more 
water to expedite the formation of gas or sourness — (see 
sour dough bread). Thus as Scripture says "A little leaven 
leaveneth a whole lump." 

As a rule good cooks are rare (camp cooks especially), 
hence the following instructions will have to be carefully 
followed: 

Young Growing Lads require good substantial foods. 

Fresh milk, cream, eggs and good butter should be pur- 
chased from the Scout fund — whenever available for camps. 
The following recipes are for both conditions, and when 
eggs, milk, creani or butter are not available, they can be 
omitted or proportionately used. Thrift and economy 
should be rigidly practiced always; expenses reduced to a 
minimum. The success of a trip depending largely on the 
least expense — the greatest pleasure or profit accrues from 
the result. 

What to do with Stale Bread, Broken Pieces, Cracker 
Dust — Crackers, crumbs, etc.. can be used for breaded chops, 
meat, fish, toast cut in dice size pieces to garnish or thicken 
soups, stews, or for puddings, milk toast, etc. They should 
not be throv/n out, allowed to mold or waste. 

Stale Loaves can be freshened (like new bread almost) if 
placed in a hot oven a few minutes — crackers also. 

Fried Egg Bread can be made of stale sliced bread. 
Beat up two eggs, add cup of milk. Dip the slice therein 
and fry. brown on both sides with a little hot fat. A fine 
breakfast dish with a rasher of bacon. 



518 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

If milk and eggs are unavailable dip once only in salted 
water and fry as above. 

A thick batter of flour, salt water,- or eggs and bread 
crumbs, cracker dust, or corn meal is excellent for chops, 
steaks, fish, fowl, or game. 

Simplest Bread Made — The simplest form of bread, and 
the rudest baking, are seen in the Australian "Damper," a 
cake made from dough composed of flour, salt, and water, 
baked in the dying embers of a wood fire. The dough is 
laid on a flat stone, covered with a tin plate, and the hot 
ashes heaped around and over it, care being taken not to 
expose it to a heat of more than 212° Fahr, Passover cakes, 
scones, and "bannocks" are prepared from a similar dough, 
and fired on hot plates or in ovens, and form an agreeable 
and nutritious food. When such dough is exposed to a high 
heat, so that the resulting cake is hard, dry, and resonant, 
biscuits (hard bread, twice baked) are formed, which are ideal 
for transportation a long distancCc 

Lemon Vanilla Pudding Sauce — One cup barley water, 
two tablespoonfuls corn starch, six spoonfuls sugar, one 
half nutmeg grated or one-half spoonful spice, stir until 
thick, boil up once and take off, flavor with spoonful lemon, 
vanilla or vinegar — try it. 

To Color Soups, stews or gravies a rich brown, brown a 
little sugar real dark, dissolve this in a little water and use 
to color with. Carrots grated give amber color to soups or 
stews; tomatoes strained give it a red color; Spinach leaves 
pounded and the juice used, green; black beans make a 
brown soup or stew; white vegetables only, white soup. 
To thicken soups or stews use a. batter of flour and water, 
rice, barley, etc., etc. 

Rich Salad Dressing — Yolks of two hard boiled eggs 
rubbed fine and smooth, one teaspoonful mustard, tea- 
spoonful salt, teaspoonful sugar, y^olks of two raw eggs, 
beat into this drop by drop, sweet or olive oil to taste — 
last of all, thin with vinegar and beat to desired consistency. 
If you leave out the eggs it is good for cold slaw. 

Plain Salad Dressing — Vinegar, salt, pepper, hot bacon 
fat. Excellent for camp greens. See recipe elsewhere.- 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 519 

Clam Chowder — Layer of clams, seasoning, crackers, 
clams again, crackers, salt and pepper, little butter, parsley 
if you have it, cup of milk or cream, and cook slowly until 
done. 

Meat Stew and Dumplings — Take old meat cut fine, sliced 
onions, sliced or quartered potatoes, salt, pepper. Put some 
fried bacon strips in bottom of pot, then add onions and 
allow them to brown, then add meat, potatoes, a little meat 
gravy dt* water to cover pot. Stew slowly until potatoes 
are done. Last of all mix up a cup of flour, spoonful of 
salt and pepper mixed, 1 tablespoon baking powder with 
enough water to make a fairly stiff batter. Drop in pot by 
the spoonful, cover, boil slowly for 15 minutes and serve. 

Potato Salad — Cut cold boiled potatoes in slices, an 
onion or two according to amount. Fry a few pieces of 
bacon — mix in hot fat with a little vinegar and a few spoon- 
fuls olive oil. Stir all together, season with salt and pep- 
per to taste and garnish with hard boiled eggs. Leave 
vinegar out if desired. 

Camp Pot Pie — To apply when a good stew is done. Mix 
up a thick batter as follows: 1 quart flour, 1 tablespoon 
baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt and pepper mixed; drop in 
by the spoonful on top of stew. Cover and boil slowly 
for 15 minutes, then serve. A little sugar and butter sauce 
for the above and the Dope can be served as a pudding. 

Rice Puddings — Boil one quart rice in plenty water, a 
little salt. When you can mash a grain between thumb and 
forefinger it is done. Then strain and if cooked right each 
grain will be separate, then add milk and a teaspoon butter, 
eggs and nutmeg heated up together so as to barely cover 
rice and bake slow until done. The secret of cooking rice is 
to have plenty boiling water, then strain it when done. 

Baked Fish — Clean, rinse and wipe dry, rub or sprinkle 
salt, pepper and a little flour. Put a few spoonfuls of water 
in pan and a few strips of bacon or salt pork on top ac- 
cording to size. Bake one hour or until done. Serve with 
cream sauce. Parsley or onion flavor. 

Fried Fish— ^Clean, dredge into flour or roll in flour. 
Sprinkle little salt and pepper over it, fry in hot lard or 



520 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

bacon fat, if lard is used put on a teaspoon salt. Fry one 
side brown then turn over. 

Fish Chowder — Cut up small pieces salt pork or bacon. 
Try them out in kettle. Put in layer of fish, layer of onions, 
layer of sliced (thin) potatoes, then first onions, potatoes 
again, salt and pepper to taste, last of all a few crackers, 
cover with water and cook slowly until potatoes are done, 
then add a little milk or cream to thicken and serve. Don't 
boil fast or use a heavy fire or it will scorch. All kinds of 
fish, oysters, clams, lobsters can be used. 

Fried Oysters — Drain and dry, roll in crackers, bread, 
cracker crumbs, corn meal, flour (or a little of each), 
sprinkle a little salt and pepper in the mixture, then fry in 
hot fat but not boiling hot unti-1 brown. Don't fill the pan 
or you will cool the fat. Work according to 3^our fire and 
heat. 

Hard Gingerbread (Fine) — 1 cup molasses or syrup, Yi 
cup sugar, small cup of water with a teaspoonful of soda 
dissolved in it — stiff dough. 

Brown Pudding Sauce — 1 cup milk, 1 tablespoonful but- 
ter, 2 of sugar, 2 of flour, 2 of molasses. 'Stir all together 
and boil 10 minutes. Flavor to taste. 

Corn Bread — One-half flour, one-half corn meal. Use 
warm water to mix in which has been dissolved 2 table- 
spoonfuls molasses, 1 teaspoonful baking powder,! pinch of 
salt. Mix to a medium batter and bake in hot oven until 
done. 

If Oven is Too Hot place pie plates under baking pan 
and one over it. Pie plates are excellent for this purpose. 
Biscuits and pies need a quick oven; cake and bread a 
moderate one. 

Pancakes — Two cups flour, one tablespoonful baking 
powder with three tablespoonfuls syrup, a pinch of salt and 
one tablespoonful baking powder dissolved in a little warm 
water. Mix to a smooth stiff batter and fry on hot pan, 
well-greased. Drop by large spoonful to size cake desired. 

Molasses Cake — One cup molasses syrup, one-half cup 
sugar, half cup hot water with a teaspoonful of baking 



I 



COMPLETE TRAPPE'RS GUIDK 521 

powder dissolved in it, a teaspoonful of ginger, one of cin- 
namon. Stir in flour to make a soft smooth batter. Bake 
in moderate oven 15 minutes in well-greased pan, filled 
about one-fourth full. 

Corn Cake — One and one-half cup flour, three-fourths 
cup corn meal, one-fourth sugar, three spoonfuls butter, lard 
or bacon fat, one-fourth teaspoonful salt, four teaspoonfuls 
baking powder, one cup milk or water. Bake in hot oven 
in well-greased pan about one-fourth full. 

Good Pie Crust — Use cold lard or fat, flour one cupful, 
lard one cupful. Chop with knife all up together until 
thoroughly mixed, then add just enough cold water to roll 
easy. Roll out with bottle on a floured board and don't 
use the hands at all, never knead it. Camp cooks use a 
rubber cloth or oil cloth instead of a board. Any fruit in 
season mixed with sugar makes good pie filling. Add a 
little spice to the fruit. 

For Meat Pie Crust add more flour, less fat and a spoon- 
ful of baking powder, pinch of salt and pepper. 

Candy Fudge — Two cups sugar, 1 cup syrup, 1 cup water, 
1 pinch soda. 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon vinegar.* 
Boil until it sticks to fork or solidifies in water. Pour out 
and allow to cool. Add cracked nuts if desired. 

Simple Biscuit or Bread — 1 quart flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 
teaspoon sugar, 3 of lard, 3 of baking powder, cold water or 
milk to make a medium dough. Press out to about ^ inch 
size, cut with baking powder lid biscuit size, place in greased 
pie plate or pan. Bake in quick oven 10 to 15 minutes. 

Note — Biscuits require a hot (but not fierce) oven — time 
according to fire or heat of oven, in forming them dust a 
little flour on the hands over and under the biscuit dough 
so they will not stick. If desired they can be baked in round 
loaf form. Allow for sw^elling and bake 15 to 20 minutes or 
until done. To test bread run a sliver of wood in center, if 
it comes out clean bread is done, if dough sticks to sliver 
it is not done. This rule applies to all bread, biscuits, cake, 
etc. As a rule camp cooks have too much fire and beginners 
are prone to burn the food. In bread, biscuit or cake bak- 



522 COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 

ing a steady regular heat and clean fire or live coals should 
be used. 

Pancakes (1) — 1 quart flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 of syrup, 1 
of lard or bacon grease, 2 of baking powder, water or milk 
to make a medium batter. Fry in hot fat, turn and fry both 
sides. Small cakes are better than large ones. Eat with 
sugar and butter or syrup. 

Pancakes (2) — ^Same as above except use molasses, 2 
spoonfuls, and one-half teaspoonful of soda in a little warm 
water (no baking powder or lard). Sour milk can be used 
with above. 

Army Biscuit or Bread — 1 quart flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 
teaspoons sugar, 2 heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder, 1 
of lard or bacon fat, water to mix to a smooth dough (do 
not knead). Form into biscuits or loaves and bake as di- 
rected. 

Army Hardtack Bread (this will keep) — 1 quart flour, 1 
tablespoon salt, 1 ta.blespoon sugar; mix to stiff dough, roll 
or pat out thin and bake in large sheets. A bottle makes a 
good rolling pin, an empty baking powder can a fine cake or 
biscuit cutter — hole in top for vent — (In army camps the 
author has often made bread and cakes for a battalion of 
nearly 300 men), A flour sack is all the table one needs — 
or a piece of canvas, oilcloth, heavy paper, — rubber blanket, 
(Poncho). 

Yeast Bread (Ranchman's style) — Most excellent yeast 
bread, buns or biscuits can be made by mixing a quantity of 
flour, water and a few teaspoonfuls of sugar and setting aside 
in a warm place until it ferments or sours, then take one- 
half, mix with flour a little sugar and salt, teaspoon of each, 
and a quarter teaspoonful baking soda (not baking powder), 
add a teaspoonful of lard or fat. Knead into biscuits 1 inch 
thick, set aside a few moments to raise a little and bake in 
hot oven. These are excellent. Stir a little flour into remain- 
ing batter and set aside for next day and it is ready again. 
Ad infinitum. 

Soft Gingerbread — 3 cups flour, ^ cup sugar, 1 of mo- 
lasses (or iy2 syrup), 1 cup of milk or cream, ^ cup lard 



COMPLETE TRAPPERS GUIDE 523 

or butter, 2 teaspoonfuls ginger, 1 of baking soda dissolved in 
little hot water. Bake in moderate oven until done. 

Cookies — 1 cup sugar, 1 cup lard, 1 cup molasses, ^ cup 
boiling water, 2 teaspoons baking soda, 1 teaspoon each 
cinnamon and ginger, flour enough to make a medium dough. 
Roll out, stamp with baking powder cover, cut cookies and 
bake 10 minutes. 

Layer Cake — 1^ cups flour, Y^ cup butter, 1 cup sugar, 1 
tablespoon baking powder, 2 eggs. Mix and cream butter 
and eggs. Add water, ^ cup to flour. Last of all well 
beaten whites of two eggs. Bake in moderate oven. 

Note 3 — All mixed cakes should be placed in well- 
greased tins and filled only about half full so as to allow for 
raising. Cake requires moderate oven. 

Meats to Be Boiled should be placed in boiling water so 
as to retain the juices — for soups or stews where extract of 
juice is desired, should be put in cold water. To boil meat 
fast toughens it — to simmer slowly tenders it. 

Worry — In all camp cooking the tendency is too much 
fire, too quick cooking. Cook and bake slow with even, 
steady fire and prevent burning, which is the bane of camp 
cooks as a rule. Regulate your fire to a steady regular heat, 
not a roaring hot fire. Read carefully camp fires, how to 
make and use. 

Fish Cakes — Any cold fish and potatoes heated in a little 
salt, pepper and a bit of parsley with a chopped onion forrn 
into Fish Balls, roll in flour, cracker dust or bread crumbs 
and fry in pan with a little fat and brown both sides. 

Scones — Use a large flat, smooth stone, well heated in 
camp fire — then place on hot coals near to fire. Flatten out 
bread or biscuit dough to cover the stone — turn until each 
side is done. Indians bake all their bread cakes on flat, 
smooth stones, well heated first. 

Slippery Elm Bark Tea — Break the bark into bits, pour 
boiling water over it and infuse or steep until cool like tea. 
Excellent for summer disorders or bad colds. 

Toast Water — Slices of brown toast, boiling water and 
barely cover. Steep till cold; strain and use. If cream or 
milk is used with a little butter and salt it is creamed toast. 



524 GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 

WILD AND VALUABLE ROOTS AND DRUGS. 

Although not generally known over one-half of the known 
drugs are prepared exclusively from wild roots, seeds, bulbs, 
etc., which the scout or trapper ought to recognize and col- 
lect in season; indeed, many old trappers more than pay 
their entire season and outfit expenses by knowledge of 
plant, seed and root craft. As a rule, generally speaking, 
the roots of plants should be dug just before flowering. 
Those of the biennial or perennial kind late in autumn or 
spring. The object being to collect them at a period when 
there is a cessation of growth (in the prime so to speak), then 
they are the strongest. When the roots are dug they should 
be cleaned of dirt, washed and carefully dried. Sliced or 
split in many cases to facilitate drying (if the roots or bulbs 
are large), spread out on racks or shelves. Exposed to dry 
air and light, but not sunshine and never left in the damp, 
wet, rain or dew. They generally take about six weeks to 
dry properly and when rightly seasoned are brittle, snap 
or break easily when bent. They should be dried all the way 
through, and shipped' in sacks, boxes or barrels. A sample 
being sent to the dealers and prices and terms arranged be- 
fore the shipments are forwarded. Of the quantity procured, 
word should be stated in the correspondence. And as I 
give herewith the average price of them, a fair estimate of 
their value can be obtained. It being remembered, however, 
that the market prices are controlled by supply and dernand, 
shortage increasing the value. Over stock decreasing it, as 
the case with fur, hides and pelts exactly. 

Ginseng. 

As a rule, "GINSENG" can be found growing wild, yet 
on account of its value has been sought for and killed out 
in many of the places, yet in marshes or unfrequented 
locations many rich finds are made, and frequently twenty 
(30) or thirty (30) pounds of root gathered in one small 
spot, where they seem to thrive, much as do dandelion in 
certain favorable locations. The Chinese regard it as of 
extraordinary quality. A universal remedy or panacea for 
mental or physical exhaustion and as a sexual stimulant, in 
decline of age. Claiming its property is such as to invig- 
orate or renew the entire system. As it has been used for 



GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 525 

thousands of years and by millions of people, rich and 
poor, its reputation is certainly founded on experience, and 
the fact that we do not use it is to be accounted for by 
ignorance of its uses and properties. Certain so-called scien- 
tific experts scoff at its value or curative properties, but 
to my mind the ancient method of using root is far superior 
to the dope using they themselves commend, which is about 
as useless as they ignorantly contend. Ginseng is certain, 
as no Chinese is going to pay dollars for what is valueless, 
and we have much to learn from them. I predict there will 
be a Ginseng craze for using the plant, as there is for find- 
ing and selling now; in brief, we will be using the medicine 
instead of selling it at $4.00 to $8.00 per pound, and you will 
see prices soar as we realize its value and efficiency. 

It can be cultivated and the roots find as ready a market 
as those of the wild variety. A thousand pounds being 
valued from $2,000.00 to $5,000.00 according to grade. The 
seed alone being valued at $200.00 to $400.00 per pound. Its 
home is in forest ridges where sunlight and shade exist 
in patches. Where rich well drained soil exists that is 
covered with mulchy leaves, as they do not thrive in open 
sunlight or exposed places. I have seen wild animals dig 
up the roots and eat them as if they were aware of their 
value. Wild boars are very fond of them in the rutting 
or breeding season especially, seeming to indicate that they 
have sexual or ophrodisiac qualities attributed to them by 
the Ancients. 

A patch of ground 15 by 20 feet will often yield a few 
hundred dollars worth of roots which is a small gold mine 
to the finder. Healthy plants indicate healthy roots, but if 
the stalks and leaves are wilted, straggly or half deadlike, 
its roots will be similarly affected. Insects and fungi para- 
sites affecting it mostly, leaf blight, stem rot, asserting it- 
self and affecting its entire growth, and of course depreciat- 
ing the value of its roots, causing the leaflets to droop and 
fall. Heavy rainy seasons affecting it mostly with a sort of 
black or soft rot, which attacks the stalk and crown, as well 
as the end of the roots, itself. Plants thus affected have a 
straggly, shrunken appearance, galls or nut like warts upon 
them, or are worm or germ eaten, rust or scab appears, 
too, frequently, all of which affects the market value of the 



526 GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 

root itself, hence like pelts or hides, one must grade high 
or low accordingly and not mix together. By many authori- 
ties healthy wild root is considered the more valuable and 
esteemed variety and the older the plant the better the 
quality. It is best collected in the fall when the top plant 
dies off, then it is considered prime. The Chinese macerate 
the roots, pound and grind them like tea leaves, make an 
infusion which they drink, much as we do tea. The taste 
is mucilaginous, slightly aromatic and bitter. The root when 
dried perfect, is somewhat brittle. The finest quality of 
roots (exceptional ones) are worth in China $12.00 to $100.00 
an ounce. And it is claimed there is no medicine so restora- 
tive of virile or sexual power to the aged and impotent, 
animals even seeking it out only during the rutting season. 
It is kept in moist proof boxes, wrapped in silk in China, 
that is the finer kind, used as a medicine night and morn- 
ing. The only drink permitted (except water) the dose 
being from 30 to 50 grains (more or less). It is claimed 
to be the root similar to the Mandrake of the Hebrews of 
the ancient times, mentioned in the Scriptures, and its use 
has been going on for thousands and thousands of years. 
In view of the fact the Chinese claim it as the plant of the 
Gods. The ideal restorative tonic or Multum in Parvo of 
root drugs. 



I 



HISXpRY AND VALUE OF GINSENG, ONE OF 
THE BEST DRUGS KNOWN 

American Ginseng is of a family closely related to the 
Wild Parsnip and Carrot family. It is a root or drug highly 
prized by the Chinese and Asiatics as one of the most highly 
valued of all roots. It can be identified by its three stalks 
and stems about one foot long, oval in shape, tapering at 
the point and toothed along the edges. When in blossom, 
about July, it bears a cluster of greenish white flowers, clover 
like somewhat, which later become berries or seeds, at first 
green then red and scarlet when ripe in August or Septem- 
ber. The berries are eatable, taste of the root and the size 
of a small pea, each containing one to four seeds. The root 
stalk usually is marked by a number of scars which show the 



GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 527 

age of the plant, being formed by stems which die off each 
year, many are found witli forty to fifty and even more of 
these scars. The roots are twisted into peculiar shapes, 
sometimes like the human form, looks like parsnip some 
what, and is found in nearly all forests, appearing about 
May or April and disappearing about September. In June 
and July they are full grown. As much of the Ginseng is 
affected by various diseases, rot, smut, etc., which depre- 
ciates its value, care must be taken to secure good healthy 
roots, and large plump, smooth and clean, color light but not 
pure white, nor dark. The larger the better especially if 
they have a good medium color, and are sponge like to the 
touch. Bunches of small roots which grow together are not 
as valuable as the few big ones which come from a single 
root, short stubby ones have the preference over thin long 
ones. The fibres and hair should be removed, dried and 
shipped separately as they are valuable. 

Also look for them on the ridges of forests where Butter- 
nut, Sugar, Maple, Rock and Slippery Elm, Birch, Whiteoak, 
Linden and Basswood trees abound. 

In many cases freshly dug roots, which are small or poor 
can be freshly transplanted until they mature, often trebling 
in value. Care, however, must be taken not to injure them. 
It grows best in damp, moist, rich, but not muddy soil, and 
is to be found in all the eastern or southern states, such as 
Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, ^Michigan, Minnesota, 
Iowa, Tennessee, Kentucky, Arkansas, Alabama, Georgia, 
North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, or anywhere between the 
37th to 47th degree of Latitude, or between the 125th to 135th 
degree of East Longitude, particularly about hardwood for- 
ests where rotted leaves, form as a mulch or winter cover 
to keep the roots from freezing, and the summer to keep 
the ground moist, cool and shady like, as the sun does not 
facilitate its growth. 

Its use is a secret with the Chinese who have used it for 
thousands of years, and who regard it as no other drug, from 
high officials to the lowest coolie, as the one universal pana- 
cea whose virtues are extraordinary, particularly for exhaus- 
tion of body or mind, tonic, stimulant or curative of debility 
and even rheumatism, nervousness and constipation. There 
is no drug esteemed so valuable a remedy, its use being uni- 



528 



GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 




Fig I. 

Fig. I. Showing fourteen ordinary grain sacks full of freshly dug 
matured ginseng roots ; total green weight 840 pounds, after drying 252 

pounds. These roots 
were grown from the 
seed, on a piece of 
ground 56x56 feet. 
They were dug at the 
end of their fifth year's 
growth and sold for a 
little over $1,700.00. 



Fig. II. A dried gin- 
seng root, fibres removed 
and ready for the mar- 
ket. This root shows 
the typical transverse 
wnnkles by which the 
mature age, can be dis- 
tinguished. The roots 
showing these transverse 
wrinkles, short and 
chunky, similar to the 
one here shown, and 
weighing from three- 
fourths of an ounce and 
over, are very desirable 
and bring a good price. 




CxINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 



529 



Roots of Ginseng ShoM^in^ A^es. 




Fig. III. Freshly dug roots of ginseng from cultivated plants, a. One 
year old; b. two years old; c. three years old; d. four years old; 
e. bud; f. lea^ -scar (about three-fourths natural size.) 



530 



GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 



versal and its merits conceded by all to be remarkable. The 
roots are dried, pounded and ground like fine coffee, made like 
tea, sweetened or with milk or in the pure state. It has a 
pleasant aromatic taste, and certain it is, its medicinal proper- 




Fig IV. 

Fig. IV. Showing twelve, freshly dug, matured ginseng roots. Total 
green weight 3 pounds 1 3 ounces, after drying 1 pound and 4 ounces. 
These roots are wild ones which had been transplanted to a garden for 
four years ; which accounts both for their spranglyness and also for the 
many small branches. 

ties once America realizes it, will result In its universal adop- 
tion here. In price it averages from $4.00 to $8.00 per pound, 
the finer, better roots often exceeding this value and the mar- 
ket continually short. In point of fact fifty times more than 
we can obtain could be marketed, hence its cultivation is a 
paying one. The supply is fast diminishing, hence its value 
is increasing yearly, and there is hardly a Chinaman poor or 
rich, who does not use it, and it is as staple a drug as is 
known. It is only cultivated by roots or its own seed, and 



GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 



531 



the pure seed is difficult to obtain even at $100.00 to $250.00 
per pound. The cultivated roots are as much in favor as the 
wild. 

In odd times trappers and scouts can dig up and transplant 
rootlets, later finding a crop that pays 1,000 per cent on the 
investment, and many is the trapper or hunter who chases a 








Fie. V. 



Fig. V. Ginseng plants "coming uj:)." 



ten cent hide over a thousand dollar carpet of Wildroots 
which he is ignorant of and which if stored or dug up 
would net him more than his entire season's catch of furs. 
The best soil to cultivate or replant in is that coarse, rich 
soil of clay, loam and sand, which is mellow, porous and 
well drained. It does not thrive in extremely wet or ex- 
tremely dry places. Work the ground deep, twelve to 
fourteen inches, spade and fork it all over well and enrich 
it with good soil, break all lumps up fine and remove all 
stones and plant with seedlings or one 3^ear old long thin 
roots. Leave on the fibrous roots and plant so that their 
top roots are not bent. Leaf mould is an excellent fertilizer, 
as is broken sod grass, compost, well rotted manure, or bone 
meal fertilizer. Plant in beds and keep free from weeds, 
partly shading the young plants from the extreme sun rays 
or heat. From May to September the roots should l)e gathered, 
and from September to May they should be cultivated, if 
the climate allows, and as it takes eighteen months for the 
seed to germinate, it is best to plant rootlets when they are 



532 GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 

dormant (from September to May, or in the spring) if done 
before the seed or roots begin to sprout. If raised from 
seed transplant seedlings from nursery beds to permanent 
ones after the second season, using a mulch to keep the 
ground moist in summer and warm in winter. As a rule 
roots will even stand freezing solid and thaw out again in the 
spring without damage. Ginseng is a very hardy plant and 
yet they are affected by frost or sun heat. In transplanting 
keep the rootlets moist and away from sun or wind and do 
not break or bruise them. They will not thrive either in 
open or dense shady spots, hence seek or plant them in the 
partly shaded places, as some of the better roots are of 
ten to fifty years growth. It is easy to see that cultivation 
is not a hasty method only a cheap one. It takes as a 
rule five to ten seasons to produce the right size and 
kind, both seeds and roots are valuable. The former ripens 
August to 'September, Red Berries which must be gathered 
when ripe. Good seed alone is worth $50.00 to $200.00 a 
pound. It must not be allowed to dry, but kept moist until 
it sprouts or germinates in from twelve to eighteen months 
after gathering, sprouting usually April to June. Seed is 
best planted immediately after picking (nature's way) or the 
seed may be removed from the berries by removing the pulp 
and separating them by water and light pressure. The seed 
sinks to the bottom of the water and the pulp and waste 
floats on the surface. Moist sand is good to keep the seed 
in, and then buried in a moist place in the ground. A quart 
of berries contains about 1,500 seeds and there are about 5,000 
seeds to the scant pound. 

In the fall is the time to gather the roots — about Septem- 
ber to October — when the tops begin to wither and the roots 
cease to grow. Dig them so as not to cut or injure the root, 
shake out the dirt, wash and dry them in the shade. Dam- 
aged roots decrease the value, do not break the skin, and dry 
in a temperature about 70 degrees by the thermometer, after 
they wilt more heat can be used, and the better they, are 
dried the more valuable they are, especially if big white 
chunky ones. Then remove the fibrous rootlets to keep them 
separate to sell. Store in paper boxes, air tight, mice or 
vermin proof until marketed. Ship in boxes or sacks and 
use several so as to protect them somewhat, broken roots 



GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 533 

are less valuable. It takes about three pounds of green 
roots to make one dry, as they lose about 75% in drying. 
The odd shaped roots, like a human form, are the most 
valuable. Those of about ^ of an ounce bring the best 
price, — long thin roots the least. It is said that a half acre 
of ground will yield or raise $50,000.00 worth of Ginseng in 
five (5) years. Root plants should not be allowed to go to 
seed. By removing the buds the roots grow larger. In 
China they never allow them to go to seed (except those 
desired for seed). 

A splendid place to transplant and make a small patch 
is where others (wild ones) are found. Do not try to raise 
Ginseng unless you are patient and persevering and know 
soils and drainage, etc., as they are apt to wilt, blight or 
c>pot, or rot, or be attacked by fungus, in which case you lose. 
Diseased roots are recognized by their lumps and scars or 
scabby appearance, black soft red gall and crown rot as it 
is called, warty growths or excrescences. 



ABOUT THE HABITAT AND RANGE OF 
GOLDENSEAL. 

Goldenseal occurs in patches in high open w^oods where 
there is plenty of leaf mold and usually on hillsides or 
bluffs affording natural drainage, but it is not found in very 
moist or swampy situations, on prairie land, or in sterile 
soil. It is native from southern New York to Minnesota 
and western Ontario, south to Georgia and Missouri, ascend- 
ing to an altitude of 2,500 feet in Virginia. It is now be- 
coming scarce throughout its range. Not all of this region, 
however, produces goldenseal in abundance. Ohio, Indiana, 
Kentucky and West Virginia have been the greatest golden- 
seal-producing states, while in some localities in southern 
Illinois, southern Missouri, northern Arkansas and central 
and western Tennessee the plant, though common, can 
not be said to be sufficiently plentiful to furnish any large 
quantity of the root. In other portions of its range it is 
sparingly distributed. 



534 GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 

Goldenseal. 




A Fruiting Plant and a Fruiting Branch of Goldenseal. 



GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 535 

Description of the Plant. 

In addition to "goldenseal," many other common names 
have been applied to this plant in different localities, most 
of them bearing some reference to the characteristic yellow 
color of the root, such as yellowroot, yellow puccoon, orange- 
root, yellow-paint, yellow Indian-paint, Indian-paint, golden- 
root, Indian-dye, curcuma, wild curcuma, Ohio curcuma, 
wild tuwneric, Indian turmeric, jaundice-root and yellow- 
eye; other names are eye-balm, eyeroot and ground-rasp- 
berry. Yellowroot, a popular name for it, is misleading, as 
it has been applied to other plants also, namely, to gold- 
thread, false bittersweet, twinleaf and the yellowwood. The 
name goldenseal, however, derived from its yellow color 
and the seal-like scars on the root, has been generally 
adopted. 

Goldenseal (Hydrastis canadensis L.) belongs to the 
same family as the buttercup, namely, the crowfoot family 
(Ranunculaceje). It is a perennial plant, and the thick yel- 
low rootstock sends up an erect, hairy stem about a foot in 
height, around the base of which are two or three yellowish 
scales. The stems as they emerge from the ground are bent 
over, the tops still remaining under ground, and sometimes 
the stems show some distance above the surface before the 
tops are brought out from the soil. The yellow color of the 
roots and scales extends partly up the stem so far as it is 
covered by soil, while the portion of the stem above ground 
has a purplish color. Goldenseal has only two leaves (rarely 
three), the stem bearing these seeming to fork at the top, 
one branch supporting a large leaf and the other a smaller 
one and a flower. Occasionally there is a third leaf, much 
smaller than the other two and stemless. The leaves are 
prominently veined on the lower surface, and are palmately 
5 to 9 lobed, the lobes broad, acute, sharply and unequally 
toothed. The leaves are only partially developed at flow- 
ering time and are very much wrinkled, but they continue 
to expand until they are from 6 to 8 inches in diameter, be- 
coming thinner in texture and smoother. The upper leaf 
subtends or incloses the flower 'bud. 

Early in spring, about April or May, the flower appears, 
but few ever see it, as it lasts only five or six days. It is 



53G GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 

greenish white, less than half an inch in diameter, and has 
no petals, but instead three small, petal-like sepals, which 
fall away as soon as the flower expands, leaving only the 
stamens — as many as 40 or 50 — -in the center of which are 
about a dozen pistils, which finally develop into a round, 
fleshy berry-like head. The fruit ripens in July or August, 
turning a bright red and resembling a large raspberry, 
whence the common name "ground-raspberry" is derived, Each 
fruit contains from 10 to 20 small, black, shining, hard seeds. 

If the season has been moist, the plant sometimes per- 
sists to the beginning of winter, but if it has been a dry 
season it dies down soon after the fruit is ripe, so that by 
the end of September no trace of the plant remains above 
ground. In a patch of golden seal there are always many 
sterile stems, simple and erect, bearing a solitary leaf at 
the apex, but no flower. 

Mr. Homer Bowers, of New Ross, Ind., who propagated 
goldenseal from seed for the purpose of studying its ger- 
mination and growth, states that the plant grown from nat- 
urally sown seed often escapes observation during the first 
year of its existence owing to the fact that in this entire 
period nothing but two round seed leaves are produced, and 
at this stage the plant does not look materially different 
from other young seedlings. During its second year from 
seed one basal leaf is sent yp, followed in the third year 
by another smaller leaf and the flower. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE RHIZOME, OR 
ROOTSTOCK. 

The rhizome (rootstock) and rootlets of goldenseal, or 
hydrastis, as it is also known in the drug trade, are the parts 
employed in medicine. The full-grown rhizome when fresh 
is of a bright yellow color, both internally and externally, 
about iy2 to 2>2 inches in length and from one-fourth to 
three-fourths of an inch in thickness. Fibrous yellow root- 
lets are produced from the sides of the rhizome. .The 
fresh rhizome contains a large amount of yellow juice 
and gives ofif a rank, nauseating odor. When dry the rhi- 



GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 537 

zome measures from 1 to 2 inches in length and from one- 
eighths to one-third of an inch in diameter. It is crooked, 
knotty, wrinkled, of a dull brown color outside, and breaks 
with a clean, short, resinous fracture, showing a I'emon- 
yellow color if the root is not old. If the dried root is kept 
for a long time it will be a greenish yellow or brown inter- 
nally, and becomes inferior in quality. On the upper sur- 
face of the rhizome are several depressions, left 'by former 
annual stems, which resemble the imprint of a seal; hence 
the name goldenseal. The fibrous rootlets become very wiry 
and (brittle in drying, breaking off readily and leaving only 
small protuberances, so that the root as found in commerce 
is sometimes almost bare. The dried rhizome also has a 
peculiar, somewhat narcotic, disagreeable odor, but not so 
pronounced as in the fresh material, an exceedingly bitter 
taste, and a persistent acridity which causes an abundant 
flow of saliva when the rhizome is chewed. The most im- 
portant constituents of the rhizome are the three alkaloids 
— hydrastin, berberin and canadin. It contains also starch, 
albuminous matter, resin, sugar, fatty matter, and inorganic 
salts. 

Hydrastis acts chiefly upon the mucous membranes and 
glandular system, and to some extent upon the nervous sys- 
tem. It is a valuable drug in disordered conditions of- the 
digestive organs and in catarrhal affections of any of the 
mucous membranes when unaccompanied with acute inflam- 
mation. In the various diseases of the mucous membranes 
it is administered both internally and locally. Hydrastis im- 
parts its properties to water, glycerin, or alcohol. 

Collection and Preparation of the Root. 

The root should 'be collected in autumn after the plants 
have matured seed. Spring-dug root shrinks far more in 
drying and always commands a lower price than the fall- 
dug root. After the roots are removed from the earth they 
should be carefully freed from soil and all foreign particles. 
They should then be sorted, and small, undeveloped roots 
and broken pieces may be laid aside for replanting. After 
the roots have been cleaned and sorted they are ready to be 
dried or cured. Great care and judgment are necessary in 
drying the roots. It is absolutely necessary that they should 



538 GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 

be perfectly dry before packing and storing, as the presence 
of moisture induces the development of molds and mildews, 
and of course renders them worthless. The roots are dried 
by exposure to the air, being spread out in thin layers on 
drying frames or upon a large, clean, dry floor. They should 
be turned several times during the day, repeating this day 
after day until the roots are thoroughly dried. If dried out 
of doors they should be placed under cover upon indication 
of rain and at night so that they may not be injured by dew. 
After the roots are thoroughly dried they may be packed as 
tightly as possible in dry sacks or barrels, and they are then 
ready for shipment. 



VALUE OF PRESSED WILD DRY BARKS, 

FLOWERS, HERBS, LEAVES 

AND ROOTS. 

Trappers as a rule acquire much that could be turned to 
good account and add to their income considerably did they 
but study and collect the valuable weed roots, herbs, leaves 
and barks which can be found in the various woods and 
forests in their respective locations. Men versed in such 
woodcraft and knowledge of the values very frequently pay 
the entire expenses of a season by judicious gathering of 
such and I append herewith a list and give Jhe prices of 
many which can be found growing wild, and add to it the 
average prices paid which rise and fall according to the 
market, just as do furs, hides and pelts. 

(Prices quoted are for Herbs and Flowers in ounces; Roots 
and Barks in pounds.) 



Almrps^ root 


$0 40 
25 


Althea flowers 

Angelica leaves 


55 


Aconite leaves . ' 


25 


Aconite root 


30 


Angelica root 


20 


Adder's Tongue leaves 


40 


Angostura bark 


50 


Agrimony herb 


30 


Apple Tree bark 


25 


Alder bark, black 


23 


Arbor Vitae leaves. . . . 


28 


Alder bark, red or tag. 


20 


Arnica flowers 


30 


Alkanet root 


18 


Arnica root 


30 



GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 



539 



Ash bark, black 

Ash bark, mountain.... 

Ash bark, prickly 

Ash bark, white 

Asparagus root 

Avens root, true 

Balm, Lemon, herb.... 

Balm, Sweet, herb 

Balmony leaves 

Barberry bark 

Basswood bark 

Bay leaves 

Bayberry bark 

Bayberry leaves 

Bearsfoot root 

Beech bark 

Beech Drops, Cancer root 

Beech leaves 

Belladonna leaves 

Belladonna root 

Bellwort herb 

Bellwort root 

Benne leaves 

Berberis Aquifolium root 

Beth root 

Birch bark 

Bistort root 

Bitter root 

Bittersweet bark, Cclas- 
triis, false 

Bittersweet leaves, Dul- 
camara 

Bittersweet twigs. Dulca- 
mara lbs. 

Black Haw, bark of root. 

Blackberry root 

Blackberry root bark.... 

Bladder Wrack, I's 

Blazing Star root 

Blessed Thistle leaves... 

Blood root 



20 Blue Flag root 25 

24 Boneset herb 20 

24 Boneset leaves 22 

20 Borage leaves 38 

30 Boxwood bark 18 

35 Boxwood flowers 30 

40 Broom Top, Scotch 25 

35 Bryony root 30 

25 Buchu leaves 45 

30 Buckbean leaves 37 

20 Buckbean root 35 

20 Buckhorn Brake root 28 

18 Buckthorn bark, Rham. 

35 Frang 20 

30 Bugle, Bitter, herb 30 

28 Bugle, Sweet, herb 30 

25 Burdock leaves 30 

28 Burdock root 18 

33 Butternut bark 16 

30 Butternut leaves . 28 

40 Calendula flowers, for- 

45 eign 90 

60 Canada Thistle root 40 

25 Canella bark 40 

30 Cannabis Indica 90 

24 Cardinal, Blue, herb 34 

34 Carpenter Square herb.. . 30 
28 Carpenter Square root... 30 

Cascarilla bark 25 

30 Cascara Sagrada bark 20 

Catnip herb 20 

45 Catnip leaves 24 

Celandine, garden, herb.. 34 

25 Celandine, wild, herb 35 

30 Centaury, American, herb 24 

18 Centaury, European, herb 40 

20 Chamomile flowers, Ger- 

30 man 40 

35 Chamomile flowers, Ro- 

32 man 35 

20 Cherry bark, wild 20 



540 



GINSENCx AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 



Chestnut bark 20 

Chestnut leaves 24 

Chickweed herb 34 

Chickweed, Red 40 

Chiretta, I's 34 

Cicely, Sweet, root 45 

Cicuta leaves 30 

Cinchona, pale 35 

Cinchona, red 35 

Cinchona, Calisaya 35 

Cinquefoil herb 34 

Cinquefoil root 35 

Clarry herb 55 

Cleaver's herb 35 

Clover heads, red 24 

Clover heads, white 

Clover, sweet 30 

Coca leaves 50 

Cohosh root, black 15 

Cohosh root, blue 18 

Cohosh root, red 35 

Cohosh root, white 30 

Colchicum root 30 

Columbo root, American. 28 

Columbo root, foreign... 18 

Coltsfoot leaves 26 

Coltsfoot root 34 

Columbine herb 40 

Comfrey root 25 

Condurango bark 40 

Conium leaves 30 

Consumption Brake, herb 65 

Coolwort herb 30 

Cotton root bark 24 

Cramp bark 24 

Craneshill root 26 

Crawley root 

Culver's root 24 

Daisy flowers 30 

Damiana leaves 35 

Dandelion root, true 25 



Dandelion herb 30 

Dittany herb 2s 

Dog-grass 2 1 

Dwarf Elder root 40 

Elder bark 30 

Elder flowers 26 

Elecampane root IS 

Eucalyptus Globulus 

leaves 25 

Evening Primrose herb. . 32 

Eyebright herb 40 

Fern, Male, root 30 

Fern, Sweet, leaves 30 

Feverbush ■ leaves 30 

Feverfew herb 45 

Fever root 35 

Fireweed herb 25 

Fit Plant herb, ^/^'s and 

%'s 34 

Five Finger herb 34 

Five Finger root 34 

Fleabane, Canada, herb.. 34 

Foxglove leaves 36 

Fringe Tree, bark of root 30 

Frostwort herb 30 

Galangal root 20 

Gentian root, American. . 35 

Gentian root, foreign.... 16 

Gold Thread herb 

Golden Rod herb 30 

Golden Seal root 90 

Gravel Plant herb 20 

Grindelia Robusta 25 

Grindelia Squarrosa .... 40 

Gromwell herb 65 

Ground Pine leaves 34 

Guaiac Wood, I's 17 

Hair Cap Moss 28 

Hardback leaves 30 

Heartsease herb 40 

Hellebore root, American 24 



GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 



541 



Hellebore, black 20 

Hellebore, white 25 

Hemlock bark 15 

Hemlock leaves, Abies 

Can 30 

Henbane leaves 34 

Hoarhound herb 22 

Hoarhound leaves 23 

Hollyhock flowers 30 

Hops, 1901 crop, ounces. 35 

Horsemint herb 30 

Horse Radish root 26 

Horse Radish leaves 30 

Hound's Tongue leaf. ... 30 

Hydrangea root 20 

Hyssop herb 30 

Indian Hemp, black, root 40 

Indian Hemp, white, root 30 

Indian Physic root 25 

Indian Turnip root 30 

Indigo, wild, root 20 

Ivy, American, bark of 

root 25 

Ivy, ground, herb 25 

Jaborandi leaves, Yz's and 

54'S 34 

Jacob's Ladder herb 30 

Jamaica Dogwood bark. . 30 

Jersey Tea, bark of root. 30 

Johnswort herb 30 

Kidneywort 34 

Labrador Tea herb 50 

Lady Slipper root 45 

Larkspur herb 

Laurel leaves 28 

Lavender Flors 28 

Lettuce, wild and garden 30 
Life Everlasting (Swt. 

Bals.) herb 25 

Life Root herlb 30 

Linden flowers 50 



Linden flowers w i t h 

leaves 40 

Liverwort leaves 30 

Lobelia herb 28 

Lobelia leaves 40 

Lovage leaves 45 

Lovage root 28 

Lung Moss 30 

Lungwort leaves 34 

Magnolia bark 35 

Maiden Hair herb.... 25 

Mallow, Low, herb.... 34 

Mandrake root 15 

Man in the Ground 

root 30 

Marigold flolwers (do- 
mestic) 'J'O 

Marjoram, German.,.. 36 

Marshmallow leaves... 30 

Marshmallow root 34 

Marsh Rosemary root. 40 

Masterwort leaves 30 

Masterwort root 40 

Matico leaves 40 

iMay Weed herb 35 

Meadow Fern leaves.. 34 
Mellilot (see Clover, 

Sweet) 30 

Mezereon bark 30 

Milkweed root 30 

Mistletoe, I's 30 

Moosewood bark 30 

Motherwort herb 30 

Mountain Mint herb.. 45 

Mugwort leaves 34 

Mullein leaves 20 

Nervine (see Lady 

Slipper) 45 

Nettle Flor's 1 75 

Nettle leaves 30 

Nettle root 24 



542 



GINSENG AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 



Oak bark, black 20 

Oak bark, red 20 

Oak bark, white 20 

Oak, Jerusalem, leaf... 33 

Osier bark, green 30 

Osier bark, red 30 

Pasony root 46 

Pansy herb 42 

Pareira Brava, root.... 34 

Parilla, Yellow, root.. 30 

Parsley leaves 40 

Parsley root 40 

Peach bark 30 

Peach leaves 30 

Pellitory root 40 

Pennyroyal leaf 20 

Peppermint herb - 24 

Persimmon bark 30 

Pimpinella root 45 

Pine bark, white 20 

Pink root 40 

Pitcher Plant root 35 

Pitcher Plant leaves... 30 

Plantain leaves 30 

Pleurisy root 30 

Poison Oak leaves.... 40 

Poke root 15 

Polypody root 34 

Pomegranate, bark of 

root 35 

Pond Lily root, white.. 33 

Pond Lily root, j'ellow. . 30 

Poplar bark, white.... 15 

Poplar bark, yellow... 18 

Poppy flowers, red.... 65 

Poppy leaves 34 

Prairie Pine Weed 

root 40 

Princes' Pine, leaf 30 

Privet leaves 45 

Pulsatilla herb 40 



Quaking Asp 25 

Quebracho bark 35 

Queen of M ea d o w 

herb 20 

Queen of M ea d o w 

root 20 

Ragweed herb 30 

Raspberry leaves 25 

Rhatany root 32 

Rosemary flowers 40 

Rosemary leaves 25 

Rose Petals, damask.. 1. 50 

Rose Petals, pale 45 

Wahoo, bark of root.. 38 

Rose Willow bark 30 

Rosinweed root 25 

Rue, herb 34 

Saffron, American 35 

Sage, domestic, ozs... 35 
Sage, domestic, J^'s and 

%'s 30 

Sage, Ital., leaf, ozs... 18 
Sage, Ital., ^'s and ^'s 

Sage, Mountain 30 

Sanicle root, black.... 70 
Sanicle root, white.... 32 
Sarsaparilla root, Amer- 
ican 25 

Sarsaparilla rdot, Hon- 
duras 55 

Sarsaparilla root, ]\Iex.i- 

can 28 

Sassafras bark 20 

Savine leaves 28 

Scouring Rush 30 

Scullcap leaves 45 

Seneka root 90 

Senna, Amer., leaves.. 50 

Senna, Alexandria 34 

Senna, Tinnevella 28 

Sheep Laurel 35 



GINSENC -AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 



543 



Sheep Sorrel, herb.... 35 

Silkweed root 30 

Simaruba -bark 34 

Skunk Calbbage root... 28 

Smartweet herb 24 

Snake root, Button.... 34 

Snake root, Canada.... 40 

Snake root, Sampson..' 30 

Snake root, Virginia... 70 

Soap Tjree bark 16 

Soapwort herb 35 

Soapwort root 34 

Solomon's Seal root... 30 

Southernwood herb.... 45 

Spearmint herb 30 

Speedwell herb 30 

Spikenard root 24 

Squaw Vine leaves.... 25 

Stillingia root 25 

Stone root 22 

Stramonium leaves.... 24 

Strawberry leaves 30 

Sumach bark 20 

Sumach leaves 30 

Summer Savory, leaf.. 30 

Sweet Basil herb 60 

Sweet Flag root 20 

Sweet Gum bark 35 

Tamarac bark 24 

Tansy herb 25 

Thimbleweed herb .... 40 

Thyme, leaf 26 

Tormentilla root 32 

Trailing Arbutus (see 

Gravel Plant) 20 

Turkey Pea root 28 



Twin Leaf root 18 

Unicorn root, Alctris ... 40 
Unicorn root, false Hclo- 

nias 48 

Uva Ursi 22 

Valerian root, German, 26 

Valerian root, Vermont 25 

Valerian root, English. 35 

Vervain herb 24 

Vervain root 34 

Violet flowers 80 

Wafer Ash, bark of root 30 

Wahoo, bark of tree... 26 

Wall Pellitory henb 60 

Walnut bark 18 

Walnut leaves . . . , 30 

Watercup plant 35 

Water Pepper herb .... 24 

Wickup herb 35 

Wild Carrot herb 35 

Wild Yam root 20 

Willow bark, black 18 

Willow bark, white.... 25 

Wintergreen leaves.... 24 

Winter's bark 75 

Witch Hazel bark 22 

Witch Hazel leaves.... 24 

Wood Betony, leaf.,.. 40 

Wood Sanicle, herb.... 50 

Wormwood herb '30 

Yarrow herb 28 

Yarrow flowers 35 

Yeliow Dock root 18 

Yellow Jessamine root. 18 

Yerba Santa 26 

Zedoary root 26 



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